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I love this but it definitely needs splines or dovetail keys, either would be fine. Send me your tired, your poor, your handle-less screwdrivers. Sorry these pics are terrible, I really, really, need an actual camera. This was an old screwdriver I broke the handle off years ago so I polished the metal up to 1000 grit (that's the highest I had on hand) and made a new handle of spalted maple. Finished with oil and shellac.   The first coat of oil turned the milky white maple into a dirty yellow, I hate it. It looks like I wiped greasy hands on it.
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Jan 15, 2013 04:02
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| # ? May 29, 2024 20:26 |
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http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Uploads/Public/Documents/ShopTricksBook.pdf Bunch of tips and tricks that im sure most of you know, but I didnt.
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Jan 15, 2013 04:10
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Frogmanv2 posted:http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Uploads/Public/Documents/ShopTricksBook.pdf Thanks for this, I've already got half a dozen things I want to do now. Number one being the sliding rollers for my table saw, that's perfect for a small shop like mine.
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Jan 15, 2013 04:17
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wormil posted:The first coat of oil turned the milky white maple into a dirty yellow, I hate it. It looks like I wiped greasy hands on it. Yup, that's maple! I almost never make anything "just" out of maple since it has little to no grain definition, and is not the most attractive colour. I usually sandwich it between darker woods like walnut, cherry or oak to showcase their grains and colour by using it as a contrast. My staining process is usually straight BLO or Tung Oil and sealing it with Poly, so I'm not the one to ask about choosing the right dyed stain to make it not look like snot-wood.
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Jan 15, 2013 21:39
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Blistex posted:Yup, that's maple! This was the edge of the spalting and little (obvious) coloration so a good candidate for utilitarian purposes. Apparently the spalting was somewhat diffuse and the oil really brought it out resulting in a somewhat dingy appearance. Next time I'll use acrylic or lacquer. It's funny you mention dye because when turning this I kept imagining it a bright blue. Sometimes I really like the yellowish tint of linseed and sometimes not. Is tung oil a browner tint?
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Jan 15, 2013 22:18
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To me tung oil seems a little browner. I'm making a murphy bed now out of maple and every finish that has any tint that I test on it looks like garbage.
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Jan 15, 2013 23:14
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I used linseed on the trivet and candleholder and they turned a nice golden yellow. Maybe after a few weeks the handle will look better.
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Jan 16, 2013 00:44
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wormil posted:Sometimes I really like the yellowish tint of linseed and sometimes not. Is tung oil a browner tint? I think that tung oil comes out just a little darker, but that's rarely the basis for why I choose it or not. I'll usually grab a scrap of the wood, preferably one with a knot and test out tung and BLO on each side. Whichever one gives better definition to the grain, makes the knots "pop", and gives that shimmering "3D" effect gets the go-ahead. Tung oil usually wins out on walnut and Oak, while BLO seems to have an edge when using cherry. Ash and maple usually get straight colourless antique oil and then some Poly rather than any stain, as I don't want them to yellow, but stay light for contrasting my preferred hardwoods. Elston Gunn posted:To me tung oil seems a little browner. I'm making a murphy bed now out of maple and every finish that has any tint that I test on it looks like garbage. Try straight polyurethane (if you haven't already). I'm not a fan of maple as it seems to be "the Pine of hardwoods" (boring). I usually make things out of ash if I have to use light coloured hardwood as it actually has a grain and nice knots.
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Jan 16, 2013 14:58
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hello woodworking thread! I need to resaw some wood - redwood 2x6 lumber, mostly - into 1/4" thick boards. I'd rather not waste half the board to the kerf, and I'd also like to do a lot of the work at night when I can't run power tools because the kids are sleeping. I'd like something like a miter box but set up for resawing. I am also open to other exciting opportunities and thoughts. what say ye?
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Jan 17, 2013 03:26
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rotor posted:hello woodworking thread! A frame/bow saw and practice. Let Roy be your guide. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3000/3009.html
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Jan 17, 2013 15:32
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wormil posted:I love this but it definitely needs splines or dovetail keys, either would be fine. I tried putting some dovetail keys in a test board and I think I need a bit more practice with layout/sawing/chiseling them in before putting them in on a nice project, so I went with option 3. Dowels! Since I didn't have any handy, it also gave me an excuse to make a dowel plate and pound a bunch of square pegs through a round hole to make walnut dowels.  I then drilled diagonally through the joint and planed them off flush. Probably not the best solution, but I feel a little better about the stability and it looks pretty nice too. Only problem is everyone will probably think they're hiding screws. At least I know better. I get the strangest looks from people when I tell them a project doesn't have any fasteners in it. 
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Jan 17, 2013 18:14
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The dowels look pretty good, don't think I've ever seen that before. Splines are easy too.  Elston Gunn posted:A frame/bow saw and practice. Let Roy be your guide. Saw what you can see!
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Jan 17, 2013 21:40
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They would have been easy had it not been glued up already! Well that and I'm tablesaw free at the moment, so I'm having to re-figure out how to do everything I used to do on sleds and things. It's an interesting experience switching things up entirely though.
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Jan 17, 2013 21:47
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So how are you doing everything? By hand? I love using hand tools, but there are a few power tools I'd never give up. Tablesaw and bandsaw to name a few. Wormil, I use a similar spline sled. I built mine to slip onto my rip fence.
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Jan 17, 2013 22:10
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Not totally by hand. I picked up a bandsaw a couple months ago and I've got a trim router. Those plus some planes, chisels, and a dovetail saw has treated me pretty well so far.
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Jan 17, 2013 22:19
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Anyone recognize this screw chuck? It's fairly substantial, 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" screw; solid aluminum except for 1x8 threaded steel insert. When I bought it, I believed it was a Glaser based on an advertisement in an old woodworking magazine but now I can't find the magazine and modern Glaser Chucks look a little different. In any case, it's a solid screw chuck and should be a big improvement over the thing that came with my lathe.
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Jan 18, 2013 05:16
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Edit: post replaced with content. A few months ago someone asked how to remove bark, here you go. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VELa3Pqs6Pg wormil fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jan 20, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 21:57
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ChaoticSeven posted:That's really neat. I always forget how accessible the big names in woodworking and turning actually are. One of the bonuses of the hobby. Well, I'm glad your lathe hasn't strangled you (although I wanna see more bowl porn too). I guess we'll see you in May? And I abused my credit cards and this is the result:  Delta had a promotion with a free stand with the purchase of a 46-460 (variable speed) and how do you pass up a deal like that? But then you need tools (hard to see in the pic but there's a burgundy box to the left) and a way to sharpen them (wolverine jig behind lathe and box on the floor to the right). Argh, I kinda impulsively spent a lot of money; the only deal I lucked into was an immaculate woodcraft low speed grinder I snagged off craigslist. And I've already started picking up random logs from the side of the road...
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Jan 21, 2013 05:26
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That's almost always the case with lathes: it's not the lathe itself that assaults your bank account, it's all the wonderful accessories. 
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Jan 21, 2013 05:30
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Sweet. Now I won't be the only one posting about lathes and turning. Spent all day yesterday cutting up the maple tree that fell in our yard, kept some and cut the bark off (vid I posted) then sealed the ends with shellac. Later this summer I'll have some nice lumber. Warm day today so I worked on restoring a roll top desk my uncle made in high school. Glued up a blank for the marking knife swap on LJ's. Cut off a piece of maple and turned an end grain cup which has a few goofs. I didn't have any paper bags, was out of denatured alcohol, didn't feel like boiling it, so I threw it in the sawdust bucket and buried it. I'm curious how well that will work for drying. The desk looks better in the pic than in person. Here it is just propped up on the legs which have all come unglued. It's made of 2 or 3 different woods so I'm using poplar for replacement pieces but the workmanship is actually very good, the desk has just been very abused over the decades. My uncle hasn't seen this desk in probably 50 years and doesn't remember making it but it has his name on it and my mom said he made it. When it's done I'll give it to him and maybe he'll remember.  The dowel holes were broken out so I removed and replaced a notch of wood. The original wood was ??? but I used poplar which I'll stain and tint to match. Thankfully the original dowels were still attached because they are 7/16 and I would have had to mail order replacements.    All this was done last week and the pieces stained. Today I glued the leg panels together and reattached the top. Next up is making a new tambour and replacing the veneer on one of the drawers.
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Jan 21, 2013 06:51
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I have been going through the wood whisperers videos, but am finding its really geared and aimed at power tools. Are there any that are aimed more at hand tool usage?
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Jan 22, 2013 01:34
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Frogmanv2 posted:I have been going through the wood whisperers videos, but am finding its really geared and aimed at power tools. Are there any that are aimed more at hand tool usage? The hand tool guys usually post about techniques or sharpening, rarely whole projects. If you happen on any good ones besides these let me know. http://www.youtube.com/user/ac445ab http://www.youtube.com/user/lostartpress http://www.youtube.com/user/curtisbuchanan52 http://www.youtube.com/user/LieNielsenToolworks http://www.youtube.com/user/OldSneelock http://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSellersWoodwork http://www.youtube.com/user/RenaissanceWW Hand & power http://www.youtube.com/user/lgosseuxdbois
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Jan 22, 2013 05:22
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Logan Cabinet Shoppe is all hand tools and has a few projects: http://logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast.php He wasn't putting out much content for a while there but he seems to be getting back into it now.
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Jan 22, 2013 05:50
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wormil posted:The hand tool guys usually post about techniques or sharpening, rarely whole projects. If you happen on any good ones besides these let me know. Try Shannon Rogers: http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/
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Jan 22, 2013 15:27
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dja98 posted:Try Shannon Rogers: 2 posts up
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Jan 23, 2013 01:35
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Cheers. Made my first bench hook last night from one that LieNielsenToolworks youtube. Slapped together an aviary thats really poo poo, but birdproof. Going to work on version 2.0 once I have some more practise at various things like dowel joints. Now that I have a drill bit for dowels that is actually straight, they should be a bit neater.
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Jan 23, 2013 01:59
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wormil posted:2 posts up Well, that'll teach me to read more closely 
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Jan 23, 2013 02:24
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Not a hand tool guy but Frank Howarth's videos are entertaining and he has a ridiculous disc sander, seen here at 1:16 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U66tr4r0Pyc
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Jan 23, 2013 05:08
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wormil posted:Not a hand tool guy but Frank Howarth's videos are entertaining and he has a ridiculous disc sander, seen here at 1:16 What's that, an Oliver? It's not even the 32" dual disc model... he needs to upgrade!
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Jan 23, 2013 05:21
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How big a motor would you need to drive something like that?
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Jan 23, 2013 05:22
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Frogmanv2 posted:How big a motor would you need to drive something like that? Pretty big by the looks of it, probably was originally run by a waterwheel or steam engine. That thing really needs to be featured in a SAW movie. Cobalt60 posted:What's that, an Oliver? It's not even the 32" dual disc model... he needs to upgrade! Looked up pics and had no idea such things existed. And here I was getting excited about building a 6" disc sander.
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Jan 23, 2013 05:49
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wormil posted:Not a hand tool guy but Frank Howarth's videos are entertaining and he has a ridiculous disc sander, seen here at 1:16 Okay, that business at 1:56 got a pretty good laugh out of me. 
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Jan 23, 2013 06:24
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wormil posted:Not a hand tool guy but Frank Howarth's videos are entertaining and he has a ridiculous disc sander, seen here at 1:16 So I watched his video on turning a segmented bowl https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQswY0sBfYY and, jfc, look at the bandsaw at 3:37. I googled him and besides learning that he shares a name with the Director of the Australian National Museum, I found this list of vintage machinery he owns. That's a 36" bandsaw. ETA: Ooooh, he has a whole video of bandsaw porn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jupHDlunwjg Wow. I really like the modern exterior of his shop too. Tora! Tora! Tora! fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Jan 23, 2013 |
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Jan 23, 2013 07:39
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I just watched that bandsaw video over at OWWM. What's funny is that I found his videos a few days ago and today saw them posted on 3 different forums. That bandsaw is baddass.
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Jan 23, 2013 09:00
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What do you guys do to control warpage? It seems like no matter what I do, after I perfectly mill and cut my boards they warp in two days. That's after sitting in my garage at a stable humidity for weeks. I'm talking about a millimeter or so off, but it's still pretty infuriating. I can get the boards to warp back the other way by wetting the concave face and laying it down for a day, but they just continue to do their warpy woody thing once I move them.
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Jan 24, 2013 05:19
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wormil posted:Looked up pics and had no idea such things existed. And here I was getting excited about building a 6" disc sander. Yeah, it's one thing to have a massive 32" steel disc spinning inches away from you. It's another to try to fathom the friction of a large surface pushed against it. Apparently, they are prone to throwing pieces clear across rooms, leaving knuckle or fingertip skin-free. You're on the OWWM site... check out the thread about the largest Oliver lathe on record (recently auctioned). It's un-loving-believable.
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Jan 24, 2013 05:28
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Dolphin posted:What do you guys do to control warpage? You can't. Normal practice is to mill close to final size, ~1/8" or so, wait a day or two then repeat the process -- joint, plane, cut. Cobalt60 posted:You're on the OWWM site... check out the thread about the largest Oliver lathe on record (recently auctioned). It's un-loving-believable. Saw the beginning of that thread but didn't follow it. Was the mystery of the buyer ever resolved?
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Jan 24, 2013 09:08
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I know you guys are mostly into staining or sealing your work, but I'm hoping some of you have some experience painting furniture also. I just bought an old Scandinavian modern-style(ish) dresser from a antique market that I would like to paint a bright blue, with a gloss to it, and preferably not really show brushstrokes. Ideally, it would look almost as good as the kind of bright powdercoat finishes you see in stores like CB2, except I'm just going to be working with rollers and brushes. This is an example of what I'd like to go for in color and finish:'  Currently, the dresser is hideous because the previous owner painted it with matte gray wall paint. I don't really want to sand all of this off. I'm hoping I can just and enough to get rid of brush strokes and give it enough grip for primer. I was thinking of adding a coat of primer, and then a couple coats of oil-based semi-gloss enamel, perhaps thinning the paint down a little to reduce the chance of too much brushtrokes. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? I suppose I could do this with lacquer, but I don't know a damned thing about lacquer. Would that be a better choice for this project?
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Jan 24, 2013 23:57
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Costello Jello posted:I know you guys are mostly into staining or sealing your work, but I'm hoping some of you have some experience painting furniture also. Dolphin fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jan 25, 2013 |
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Jan 25, 2013 04:34
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| # ? May 29, 2024 20:26 |
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Dolphin posted:What do you guys do to control warpage? It seems like no matter what I do, after I perfectly mill and cut my boards they warp in two days. That's after sitting in my garage at a stable humidity for weeks. I'm talking about a millimeter or so off, but it's still pretty infuriating. I can get the boards to warp back the other way by wetting the concave face and laying it down for a day, but they just continue to do their warpy woody thing once I move them. How are you storing your milled pieces? It is advisable to lay them on a flat surface with narrow spacers between each to allow for airflow around the entire work piece. This prevents one face of the board from releasing/gaining more moisture than the others. Alternatively, stack your pieces without spacers and lay an extra piece on top to prevent airflow on the exposed face. These methods will not prevent warping entirely, but will help keep it to a minimum. Also, what type of wood are you working with?
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Jan 26, 2013 22:26
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