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At this point, just figures. In any case, I'm still trying to improve my brush technique first before I get balls deep into airbrushing but I like to look ahead and prepare.
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Jan 25, 2013 23:53
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I'm actually glad that the Sotar doesn't come with a compressor, 'cause I probably would've bought one if it had. e: vvv Oh, I'm not saying it isn't a kickin' deal. It's just that I can't afford it, and I can't justify spending a bunch of money on an airbrush that'll sit in the closet until I can afford a compressor  vvv
Achmed Jones fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 00:10
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Achmed Jones posted:I'm actually glad that the Sotar doesn't come with a compressor, 'cause I probably would've bought one if it had. Well considering I had been eyeing a Krome (120 bucks) and an Iwata Smart Jet (200 bucks) and instead wound up getting a Sotar for 75 and a compressor for 75 that comes with an extra airbrush I think I'm in good shape getting into airbrushing for half what I had been expecting.
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Jan 26, 2013 00:12
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Baked, primered, painted and based the 1:35 sci-fi soldier. A lot of fun to make and really cool result, in my opinion. This is something I'll do again for sure. Seeing him painted and based is really very pleasing to me. I think the design is in a good place. I might still make improvements here and there.    Also, a Stug got painted.  Thumbed for meme-ness. I don't know if it's frowned upon or not.  
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Jan 26, 2013 01:01
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God dammit OK fine. I bought an Iwata compressor and airbrush just last month and the airbrush is just their entry-level Neo brush, except I bought it on impulse at Blick and paid significantly more than that. Now I'm drooling over that Badger on sale, and also the badger paints, and I have zero business buying a second airbrush and a bunch of paint when I've yet to actually airbrush a miniature. (I built a homemade spray booth and then suddenly we needed to rearrange furniture and do some stuff all January and I just haven't had the time and motivation yet). I did run paint through the Iwata though, just to test it out (on some paper). So I'm not sure if it's in returnable condition (it is quite clean but I doubt Blick will just give me a refund for a working used airbrush for no reason). So here's the question: The Iwata has a .35 needle/nozzle combo. It's a dual-action brush, fairly cheap but reasonably well made and it seems to work fine. Would the Sotar make a good companion brush, given it has the extra-fine needle? My Iwata compressor came with adapters for several other brush brands including a badger one, so I suspect I won't need an adapter. I'd love to be able to do extra-fine detail with an airbrush too, although there's always a chance I'll discover I hate airbrushing models or something like that, I suppose. The price is affordable to me, it's not pocket change by any means but I can drop a c-bill without going short on groceries or something.
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Jan 26, 2013 02:57
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Well I decided it was time to take a break from the Red Army, and finished painting some opposing forces for IABSM. TWO FIERCE TIGERS!  (click for way too big) They're done until I can get some decals for the numbers on the turrets. And I don't think my browser history will ever be clean again after all researching nazi unit markings. I should just buy a book or something. But here's a pallet cleanser, and it's time to get back to the WIP Soviets!  
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Jan 26, 2013 03:30
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Leperflesh posted:God dammit OK fine. I bought an Iwata compressor and airbrush just last month and the airbrush is just their entry-level Neo brush, except I bought it on impulse at Blick and paid significantly more than that. unless you need a sotar for detail work that you wont be doing with a brush you wont need it. The iwata will spray primer and basecoats better. I really only plan on using the sotar on stuff like freehanding camo on capes and vehicles. I feel like the biggest reason to get an airbrush is so you can spray your own primer and do silky smooth basecoats. Detail work is often better done with a brush Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 03:58
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It's prime time my top back this pimp game ho My FLGS is doing its first ever painting competition and mother fucker I'm gonna do my best.
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Jan 26, 2013 04:58
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Lethemonster posted:I'm going to be writing a (light hearted) view of how females models are sculpted and presented, and how I (as a girly painter) feel about them and which models I like. If you guys have painted any female/feminine models or anything with a girly theme then I would love to showcase it on my bloggins. Putting a vote forward for Gray Maiden from reaper:  http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Pathfinder/latest/60025#detail/IG_668_1 They do some bad models, but this is one of my favourites. You could always include malifaux of an example of both unnecessary skimpiness, equality and actually justified silly costumes.   
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Jan 26, 2013 06:24
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Yeah malifaux has some pretty good and some really bad. The Taelor underboob is pretty...uh...yeah.
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Jan 26, 2013 06:51
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Does anyone know of a cool robot horse that's not the one being ridden by the Empire Engineer?
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Jan 26, 2013 07:03
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Phyresis posted:Yeah, the fact that it's bright red doesn't help. Symbolism much? I don't think I could play Infinity just because these models are distasteful, regardless of how few there are. Hope you got that 40k avatar ironically, bro. 
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Jan 26, 2013 07:06
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If we're talking about a line of miniatures there's a difference between a squad of Repentia or Dark Eldar slave sculpts cast in metal from the 90's vs. virtually every female sculpt being essentially a pinup. Look at the rest of the army you cherry picked the Repentia from, hardly cheesecake.
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Jan 26, 2013 07:33
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orphean posted:If we're talking about a line of miniatures there's a difference between a squad of Repentia or Dark Eldar slave sculpts cast in metal from the 90's vs. virtually every female sculpt being essentially a pinup. Women barely exist at all in 40k. The only females at all are those nuns from the 90's, and a race of decadent ecstasy elves and the servants of the dark pleasure god they made from loving too hard. edit: The nuns, I might add, that don't even rate having rules anymore. Fix fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 07:46
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Does anyone know of a cool robot horse that's not the one being ridden by the Empire Engineer? It's possible to convert those Empire ones:  There wasn't anything I found when I did these, but soon there should be something from Lead Adventure. They have a 'Steampunk Warhorse' in production:  http://www.lead-adventure.de/index.php?PHPSESSID=2efe7f91925b53dbc532b8fe998d44de&topic=37485.0 Store: http://www.lead-adventure.com/index.php?cPath=2&osCsid=b97c3fe08d726b9ec9b2578b1a4be1f9 I guess it will be a while yet, but I'd love to get a few without the rider.
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Jan 26, 2013 08:06
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Fauxtool posted:unless you need a sotar for detail work that you wont be doing with a brush you wont need it. The iwata will spray primer and basecoats better. I really only plan on using the sotar on stuff like freehanding camo on capes and vehicles. I feel like the biggest reason to get an airbrush is so you can spray your own primer and do silky smooth basecoats. Detail work is often better done with a brush Doing things like cloaks with an airbrush is so much easier. You can spend 15 minutes doing it compared to hours with a brush and thats if you can actually get the blend as good. Flesh on some of the larger miniatures would also be nice and easy. Airbrushes can be a real time saver and its worth trying to use it for more than just basecoats.
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Jan 26, 2013 08:12
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Fix posted:Women barely exist at all in 40k. The only females at all are those nuns from the 90's, and a race of decadent ecstasy elves and the servants of the dark pleasure god they made from loving too hard. It'd be super easy for GW to make guardswomen, just make some of the chest pieces slightly roomier, make a few of the faces more feminine, and bam, done. my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 08:24
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I'm interrupting talk about girls with lovely WIP PHOTOS Yeah, check out this poo poo paint job!  lovely OSL, you say!?  But wait, there's MORE!  My DICK has more to say that you ever have!  Blue paint job: this side is lucky as gently caress.  Wait what did I do to this side--  Oh God it doesn't stop!  "I have gone insane!" --Sole.Sushi, Just Now I either need to paint in better lighting, get a better light, or stop being critical on myself for macro photography ruining everything ever.
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Jan 26, 2013 08:42
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Such a good conversion. Why is the metal so spotty/sparkly?
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Jan 26, 2013 09:26
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Fix posted:Such a good conversion. Purposely sprayed far away so the metal got spotty. Was trying to go for a pebbled iron look, which came out okay. Mostly to break up flat areas, partly because I wanted the thing to look hand-forged, as if someone spent a shitload of time crafting every single part of it.
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Jan 26, 2013 09:40
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Hellbeard posted:Also, a Stug got painted. Excellent work, do you have the rest of the platoon to do and do you have any decals to add? 
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Jan 26, 2013 09:50
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big_g posted:Excellent work, do you have the rest of the platoon to do and do you have any decals to add? Thank you! I do have 2 more Stugs on the sprue (I got the Open Fire! box set, it's really cool) but no decals. I might get some later, though.
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Jan 26, 2013 10:01
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Sole.Sushi posted:Purposely sprayed far away so the metal got spotty. Was trying to go for a pebbled iron look, which came out okay. Mostly to break up flat areas, partly because I wanted the thing to look hand-forged, as if someone spent a shitload of time crafting every single part of it. Two things, and first of all, due respect, I think it's great, from concept to model. I like the color choice and how you've done it in general, as well as the rest of your Knights in general. But I don't think the metal works for two reasons: First, pebbled iron is grey spots on metallic rather than metallic spots on grey. Also, it should probably be a bit darker, since you're talking about little uneven holes with their own shadows going on. Second, thematically it doesn't really play, because someone who spent a shitload of time wouldn't have pebbled iron unless they were bad at it. Even the most basic Marine armor regimen should see the armor's occupant keeping better care than to see it pitted and possibly structurally weak. You say hand forged, but honestly I don't even know what that'd be like in the 40k context, and especially not within the elite of the elite. fe: 
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Jan 26, 2013 10:31
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Sole.Sushi posted:
This is not what I would call lovely, but I do think it needs some matte varnish. I'm not sure how you would stare at it in direct light otherwise. e; vvv this is super loving cool and I hope you have a step by step somewhere. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 14:27
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Finished my 'Goblin-Town' scenery:    I'm liking working with pigments for adding detail to terrain. I think I should branch out from rust and soot though. I want the secret weapon ones, but the set is expensive.
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Jan 26, 2013 15:27
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Fauxtool posted:unless you need a sotar for detail work that you wont be doing with a brush you wont need it. The iwata will spray primer and basecoats better. I really only plan on using the sotar on stuff like freehanding camo on capes and vehicles. I feel like the biggest reason to get an airbrush is so you can spray your own primer and do silky smooth basecoats. Detail work is often better done with a brush I definitely want to do more than just basecoating and priming with the airbrush. I've watched some videos and it looks like they're good for doing shading and highlighting, especially on rounded areas like muscles. I mostly paint fantasy but I do have a bunch of battlemechs to paint and camo schemes would be good. I've seen some cool techniques like flames and stuff, and I'd like to try doing OSL effects, weathering, etc. I've also got some terrain work to do. So really what I'm getting at is, am I going to be able to do finer lines with the Badger than I can with my .35 Iwata. And I think the answer is "yeah, but only once you get some skill with the dual action". So then I'm left with, well, is this like a once-in-a-long-time opportunity to grab that Badger for a fantastic price, and I'll regret it in six months if I don't get it now? I'd also love to hear from anyone who has tried out those Badger airbrush paints. That's a complete steal for that set. I already have a lot of Citadel paints, although roughly 3/4 of my collection are pots of paint that are over 20 years old. But being able to spray without needing to dilute would be pretty sweet. I could use the badgers just for airbrush work and then switch to the citadel paints for detail brushwork. If they're any good.
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Jan 26, 2013 18:19
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Yeah what originally sold me on the airbrush was watching Les Burseley or someone do the whole zenithal pre-shading and then spray translucent red over everything and wind up with well shaded blood angel red in like 5 minutes. I know I'm not Les but even so that's just so much easier. There's no way I'm realistcally going to hand paint 30 space marines or whatever anymore. The part of painting I enjoy is detail and highlights and cool techniques and stuff, basecoating is just balls.
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Jan 26, 2013 18:23
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Dominion posted:Yeah what originally sold me on the airbrush was watching Les Burseley or someone do the whole zenithal pre-shading and then spray translucent red over everything and wind up with well shaded blood angel red in like 5 minutes. I did that with a bloodletter, it works really, really, well. I just can't find a photo. It's in the oath thread somewhere.
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Jan 26, 2013 19:50
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Fix posted:fe: It's hard to tell from the picture, but it's actually metal on metal.  VMA Gun and VMA Steel. In person it's nowhere near as granular.Lemon Curdistan posted:This is not what I would call lovely, but I do think it needs some matte varnish. I'm not sure how you would stare at it in direct light otherwise. It'll get the whole gloss-matte-matte treatment soon enough.
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Jan 26, 2013 20:15
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Pilgrimski posted:Finished my 'Goblin-Town' scenery: This is really cool, do you have any pictures of you making it?
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Jan 26, 2013 20:21
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           I didn't take a picture between the last one here and the finished version. All I did was cover it in Army Painter Strong tone, let that dry, then splodge on some black pigment, let that dry, give it a brush to spread it out and then varnish. I got the sticks from ebay, you can get them for literally cheaper than 10 a penny. Stuck together with superglue - PVA tends to get spread around more since it takes longer to dry, that results in more areas that don't take the varnish as well. It's also much slower. Pilgrimski fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 20:32
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What a great project!
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Jan 26, 2013 20:35
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Dominion posted:There's no way I'm realistcally going to hand paint 30 space marines or whatever anymore. The part of painting I enjoy is detail and highlights and cool techniques and stuff, basecoating is just balls. This. I've been considering getting an airbrush for a while, and I already have a full Vallejo set which apparently is fine enough pigment to work well with one. The ability to basecoat quickly, in any color I want and use cool shortcuts like pre-shading? Sign me up! (I already did... Amazon is out of stock but they seem to be honoring the price for a backorder anyway, bless their hearts)
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Jan 26, 2013 20:37
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That goblin town set looks really cool! I know not everyone wants to get all the stuff together to make their own washes, but it is very easy and you can make it for about 5% of the cost of GW washes. I posted about it ITT but also copy-pasted it to my group's blog: http://hammertime40k.wordpress.com/2013/01/02/my-homemade-washes/ e: you actually mentioned pigments, not washes, but eh I'll leave the link anyway, I don't think folks realize how cheap/easy the washes are to make.
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Jan 26, 2013 20:38
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Yeah, Les Bursely washes for lyfe. They own.
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Jan 26, 2013 20:50
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How much detail should I pay attention to when painting little tiny things like earmuffs, knife scabbards, leather straps and buckles, etc prior to putting on the first wash?
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Jan 26, 2013 22:17
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SERPUS posted:How much detail should I pay attention to when painting little tiny things like earmuffs, knife scabbards, leather straps and buckles, etc prior to putting on the first wash? 0. gently caress those things they make me pull out my loving hair and I hate people who put endless pouches on their marines when they get me to paint them furtherm
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Jan 26, 2013 22:54
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I try to make them look nice since they usually pop really nicely if you do them in cool colors but I also want to take a second and say gently caress purity seals
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Jan 26, 2013 23:04
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SERPUS posted:How much detail should I pay attention to when painting little tiny things like earmuffs, knife scabbards, leather straps and buckles, etc prior to putting on the first wash? I usually just do a basecoat, wash with the rest of the model, then re-layer the basecoat and do some simple highlights if it's leather. The worst offenders are the Space Wolf knives that have the individual stitchings running along the side; I'll usually just substitute some vanilla Space Marine knives, paint them metallic and say they're mag-locked on.
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Jan 26, 2013 23:13
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Just want to say how much vallejo liquid gold and oil washes own. I am just finishing up Sicarius (take 2) and putting the washes on is a joy. Just dab your brush into the detail and watch it all flow round. Hopefully I can post some pics when my power supply comes for my pc.
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Jan 26, 2013 23:47
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