|
Daedalus Esquire posted:1. My time with extract was pretty limited, but I assume DME and LME are referring to dry and liquid, not light and dark, right? Yes, I meant dry malt. As far as the cider, does it need to be in primary for months? Or can it be in primary for maybe a month, and will it continue to improve after bottling with a little priming sugar? What I mean to say is if cider loves aging, is aging time in the bottle as good as aging time in the fermenter? Additional question: is it bad for fresh wort to travel? If I brewed some beer at a friend's house and then put it in the fermenter with airlock, is it bad for the wort to go in the back of my Jeep for a ride across town back to my house? PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Jan 29, 2013 |
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 15:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 23:26 |
|
|
Pucklynn posted:Oh man, I tried my hand at brewing some mead today. It was.. interesting. No sin with the bread yeast, lots of first timers and quick recipes use the fleischmanns stuff. It actually has a tolerance of like 10-12 percent which is plenty for a hydromel. with the hydrometer you just take the temperature of the must in the beginning, there's a chart that lets you adjust the reading for the temp ex. 70 degrees add .001 so you write that down. Then when its done take a another reading, and put the numbers in here http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/ . Why are you going to be stirring stuff around? For the first few days (like 5) give your carboy a good shake or pop the top, wait a second for some fresh air to get in, put the stopper back on, then give it a good shake. Should be a bubble blitz for a second or two then go back to normal. That's Co2 escaping your must while putting in good air to help your yeast. after fermentation has slowed down (a couple to a few weeks). Let it Sit. DON'T stir the sediment on the bottom, you want your mead to be clear. You'll probably be able to have a good "drinkable" finished product at 4 months, so you can drink it before you leave. Or continue aging it to make it better and find some way to ship Alcohol by Uncle Sam's nose. Just say its olive oil or something.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 15:54
|
|
|
I think, I guess, that's why a simple mead is best for first timers. Stir honey, energizer, and nutrient into water, pitch yeast, aerate, seal, wait. A question for ye olde mead makers. How do I know the fermentation is good enough? Is it even a determinable thing? Everything looks fine in the fermentation lock. Filled with vodka and I see a large "blup" of a bubble ~ every second. If I put my ear aside the fermentation bucket, I can hear an audible fizz. But as a first timer I have no idea how to tell if this is a good solid fermentation.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 15:54
|
|
|
Cointelprofessional posted:Yes, Northern Brewer does. While they recommend it in the store, on the website both products that they offer have horrible reviews. Has anyone respond to the criticisms in the reviews or recommend something else? I've got the breakdown jar, it works great. I dropped it and cracked the top off, but it's still tall enough to hold my hydrometer. The 1st one really does truly suck, I had it briefly, there's no reason to not spend the extra buck and get one that works.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 16:43
|
|
|
It's fine to transport wort as long as it's not sitting in the sunlight as you drive around town and your airlock has a good seal on it so additional aeration doesn't occur (and of course outside stuff doesn't get in). As with all fermentation questions (re: meadchat) the answer is always check the gravity.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 16:55
|
|
|
Finished carbing up my Pumpkin Dubbel, ended up VERY spicy, about 8.5% ABV, and mighty nice. Next time I plan on racking with pumpkin in the secondary (there is almost no pumpkin flavor at all, and what little there is drowned out by the clove and cinnamon I used and the spicy T-55 yeast) and using less cloves in the boil. Also I need to work on the head retention, the oil from my cinnamon just kills any head it would have formed. Otherwise, very good winter beer! Too bad it's in the 70's in Arkansas today.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 17:13
|
|
|
fullroundaction posted:As with all fermentation questions (re: meadchat) the answer is always check the gravity. Assuming you're directing this to me. My initial gravity check was 1.111 as opposed to what I read as being the suggested 1.112. Be that as it may, I know fermentation can fail, slow down prematurely, or otherwise not take based on many different factors. And as much as I read, it's still my first batch and I'm a complete novice so, just wanted to know is good fermentation something that I can visibly see or do I need to open up the bucket and manually see if the gravity has changed? It's been less than 48 hours since I pitched the yeast, so,  to me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 17:48
|
|
|
Who Dat posted:I think, I guess, that's why a simple mead is best for first timers. Stir honey, energizer, and nutrient into water, pitch yeast, aerate, seal, wait. Well your yeast is probably making babies in there, which explains the fizz. I find without using any energizers or un-natural nutrients a good fermentation lasts about 7-12 days at 1-2 BPS (blips per second) and it follows a sort of bell curve into a slower final step until the blipping stops. Gravity readings will let you know if the fermentation is done, has used up all your sugars. If it has stopped for a long period of time and you happen to see a blip when checking on it , it may be the mead "degassing" which is letting additional Co2 out that may have been stuck in the mead one way or another. So if you calculate your current ABV and see that its about the range of your yeast (not always guaranteed as yeast can shoot over its "limits" or peter out a few percentage points before)your fermentation is probably done. Time to rack, take a sip, and age it out. If it is too dry you can always add campden tabs AND potassium sorbate, then add a honey and water mixture to your desired sweetness. I find that the dry ones get really nice as they age and become less harsh. Don't know if I stayed on topic, but there you go. Edit: Now reading your post. Wait a month or two, then check your gravity. Your fermentation is just getting going now and will reach fever pitch over the next few days. What yeast did you use? Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jan 29, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 17:49
|
|
|
Cointelprofessional posted:(Re: Hydrometer test jars) Has anyone respond to the criticisms in the reviews or recommend something else?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 17:53
|
|
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:Well your yeast is probably making babies in there, which explains the fizz. I find without using any energizers or un-natural nutrients a good fermentation lasts about 7-12 days at 1-2 BPS (blips per second) and it follows a sort of bell curve into a slower final step until the blipping stops. Gravity readings will let you know if the fermentation is done, has used up all your sugars. If it has stopped for a long period of time and you happen to see a blip when checking on it , it may be the mead "degassing" which is letting additional Co2 out that may have been stuck in the mead one way or another. So if you calculate your current ABV and see that its about the range of your yeast (not always guaranteed as yeast can shoot over its "limits" or peter out a few percentage points before)your fermentation is probably done. Time to rack, take a sip, and age it out. If it is too dry you can always add campden tabs AND potassium sorbate, then add a honey and water mixture to your desired sweetness. I find that the dry ones get really nice as they age and become less harsh. Don't know if I stayed on topic, but there you go. Good information nonetheless. I used Lalvin 71B-1122 along with nutrient and energizer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 17:58
|
|
|
fullroundaction posted:It's fine to transport wort as long as it's not sitting in the sunlight as you drive around town and your airlock has a good seal on it so additional aeration doesn't occur (and of course outside stuff doesn't get in). Additional aeration is a good thing, the ideal range goes well above the amount you can get in with just air. Just get an undrilled bucket lid or stopper if you want to ideally transport. That's more to keep wort from splashing all over you and your car in the corners. Especially if you have a bucket you'll just shoot or suck sanitizer in the corners and stops if you airlock.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 18:00
|
|
|
Who Dat posted:Good information nonetheless. when your gravity gets to .999-1.007 is around the alcohol tolerance of that strain 14% but as I said it can end before or after. According to the  it will be on the dry side. The nutrients and energizer won't necessarily boost your yeasts tolerance but it will ferment faster and make sure it has the foods it likes buffet style.I brewed some beer and drove it home in a bucket, buckled up all real nice. I think the gas station man thought it was a big batch of meth cause he was staring at it while he pumped my gas. Anyways, fastest fermentation I've ever had with beer, probably cause of the 40 min bonus round of aeration.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 18:09
|
|
|
zedprime posted:Additional aeration is a good thing, the ideal range goes well above the amount you can get in with just air. Yeah, my wording was bad. I meant you don't want air from /driving around town/ to be able to have access to the wort. Who Dat posted:Assuming you're directing this to me. My initial gravity check was 1.111 as opposed to what I read as being the suggested 1.112. Be that as it may, I know fermentation can fail, slow down prematurely, or otherwise not take based on many different factors. And as much as I read, it's still my first batch and I'm a complete novice so, just wanted to know is good fermentation something that I can visibly see or do I need to open up the bucket and manually see if the gravity has changed? It's been less than 48 hours since I pitched the yeast, so, Good (initial) fermentation is definitely something you can see and hear, but that is really only useful for the first part primary fermentation (basically letting you know your yeast is alive and well and doing its job). Some beers/meads can hit their final gravity in a few days, some can take over a month, but the only way to be sure is to take gravity readings once the audio/visual cues subside. For instance, I've had a cider in secondary that hit its final gravity over a month ago and it still bubbles every couple minutes. I've also bottled a beer that was quiet for 2 weeks (I didn't take gravity readings because I was a newb) and it caused half the batch to explode in the bottles. Plus the best part is you get to drink the samples 
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 18:25
|
|
|
Making a straightforward Saison partial mash. Trying to decide between Wyeast 3724 and 3711. 3724 sounds like more what I'm aiming for, a Belgian thing, but its recommended temperature is a bit higher than my drafty house can handle at the moment. I could probably up it by putting a towel around the bucket and putting the bucket over the heating vent? But barring that, what are some major differences y'all have noticed about these strains?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 20:14
|
|
|
My CO2 tank just emptied, and I got it refilled. Now, when I hook it up to the regulator, it's maxing the pressure and blowing out the relief valve (on the regulator). I've got the pressure control knob backed out as far as it will go, and pressure is still sitting at ~55 PSI and leaking out the relief valve. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
Cointelprofessional posted:I don't keep mine segregated and I haven't noticed any off tastes. After every keg, I'll run a few gallons of PBW through and let it sit for a day or two. Then I'll run Star San through when I'm cleaning my keg before racking into it. Bruinator posted:It's just expensive caustic solution (sodium hydroxide) so it's probably the best choice. I've only used it once but with good results. My cleaning regimen is a little bit splattery and I dont like the idea of getting caustic everywhere. Normally I run some PBW through and let it sit for a while before flushing with water and star san. My lines only get cleaned every 4 or 5 kegs and I've never had a flavor crossover but I do use that bev seal ultra barrier tubing. The lines are a pain in the rear end to balance and get on the barbs but they do what they advertise and dont discolor or hold tastes. PBW it is, thank you. Yeah, I was kinda shocked when I sampled the IPA, it was like an optical illusion was being played on my palate. Great fruity nose, then this roasty up-front taste and a cocoa followup with a pleasant bitterness behind it. Switched over to another line that last had an IPA in it and it actually tasted as I wanted. This was what I brewed, minus a yeast change to WLP001. Still too early to say how close it's going to be to a Duet clone, but it's spectacular in my samples I've pulled from the keg. The whole "Simcoe and Amarillo in harmony" thing is a call to Pat McIlhenney's hop oil ratio theory which he swears by in all of Alpine's IPAs. Given their track record, I'll trust that he knows what he's talking about.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 20:49
|
|
|
Cointelprofessional posted:Yes, Northern Brewer does. While they recommend it in the store, on the website both products that they offer have horrible reviews. Has anyone respond to the criticisms in the reviews or recommend something else?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 21:35
|
|
|
Woke up this morning to the smell of a yeasty house party, so all is well. I did forget to take the temperature when I measured it at first, so I'm pretty sure my first reading won't be very helpful. The instructions More Beer sent with my kit talk about having it completely ferment within 3 weeks, so maybe that's why they want me to poke it so much? I'm probably just going to follow their instructions for adding the yeasty foods but rather than stirring it just slosh it a bit. I don't want to risk contaminating it at this stage. Yeasty.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 22:16
|
|
|
So, it's been a while since I've brewed and I am finding myself with all sorts of newbie questions. It's pretty weird, I can't remember if I once knew the answers to these things or if I just didn't care much. Anyway, I've been checking in on my Citra IPA each night and it's been about 9 days since fermentation started. I have not taken a gravity reading yet because each time I peak at the bucket there is still a health amount of krausen on top. That's the right thing to do, right...just let it go until the krausen dissipates and then start checking gravity?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 23:06
|
|
|
the42ndtourist posted:My CO2 tank just emptied, and I got it refilled. Now, when I hook it up to the regulator, it's maxing the pressure and blowing out the relief valve (on the regulator). I've got the pressure control knob backed out as far as it will go, and pressure is still sitting at ~55 PSI and leaking out the relief valve. Any ideas? Regulators are backwards, are you sure you don't have it all the way open? E. if you've tried it pegged both ways, your internals are probably busted. zedprime fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jan 29, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 23:33
|
|
|
Might have gotten some crud stuck in the regulator. But yeah, make sure you're not doing the control knob backwards.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 23:45
|
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:So, it's been a while since I've brewed and I am finding myself with all sorts of newbie questions. It's pretty weird, I can't remember if I once knew the answers to these things or if I just didn't care much. Sometimes the krausen will never "fall" and it will just sit there. 9 days is when I'd start dry hopping (assuming you're doing one). Its fairly rare for fermentation to actively progress that long, in reality I'd guess 90% of non-stuck fermentations are done in 4 days max. You can take a gravity reading over a few days to be sure, however. I'm simply not patient or fidgety enough to deal with that kind of thing and I almost always just let the beer ferment 9 days (nine is my usual number), take a gravity reading and if the number is acceptable, start the next step; either packaging, dry hopping, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 00:54
|
|
|
Pucklynn posted:The instructions More Beer sent with my kit talk about having it completely ferment within 3 weeks, so maybe that's why they want me to poke it so much? I'm probably just going to follow their instructions for adding the yeasty foods but rather than stirring it just slosh it a bit. I don't want to risk contaminating it at this stage. The point of stirring up the lees is to get more of the yeast in contact with the must instead of packed in a layer at the bottom. It's not necessary but it can help, and sloshing is better than nothing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 01:06
|
|
|
I'm a pro slosher. I don't like to disturb any of the lees as I see it as a conflict with clarification. But after all its one brewers opinion against another and it's just that. An opinion. I'm sure either way will yield similar tasty results at some point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 01:29
|
|
|
fullroundaction posted:Good (initial) fermentation is definitely something you can see and hear, but that is really only useful for the first part primary fermentation (basically letting you know your yeast is alive and well and doing its job). Some beers/meads can hit their final gravity in a few days, some can take over a month, but the only way to be sure is to take gravity readings once the audio/visual cues subside. I think what worries me the most is bottling to soon for that very reason of things exploding. I might just let it sit in the carboy for longer than suggested and keep taking gravity readings. Marshmallow Blue posted:when your gravity gets to .999-1.007 is around the alcohol tolerance of that strain 14% but as I said it can end before or after. According to the Fine with me. I think I prefer drier wines anyway. I will recheck the gravity in a few weeks before I rack into my carboy...which reminds me to get another hydrometer. I broke it while cleaning it. Fragile little things. Maybe I'll grab a few this time. Thanks for the explanation. Also, any of you resident mead-makers have any experience with braggot? Who Dat fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 02:23
|
|
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:I'm a pro slosher. I don't like to disturb any of the lees as I see it as a conflict with clarification. But after all its one brewers opinion against another and it's just that. An opinion. I'm sure either way will yield similar tasty results at some point. I'm not worried about clarity during primary fermentation which is when MoreBeer says to stir up the lees. After fermentation is over then yeah you don't want to disturb any sediment. Usually racking 2 or 3 times with a month in between will clear it up nicely. I really need to make more mead but I've got 3 batches waiting to bottle first.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 04:04
|
|
|
Who Dat posted:I think what worries me the most is bottling to soon for that very reason of things exploding. I might just let it sit in the carboy for longer than suggested and keep taking gravity readings. When your ready to bottle just add a campden tab per gallon and some potassium sorbate a few days before and your bottles shouldn't die hard even if it is sweet. You should pick up those while you're getting your hydrometer(s). Braggots... Haven't done one yet but I've got one in my experiments to do log. Probably do it after my bochet ill be making in a couple weeks. If I get to it before you, I'll let ya know. Will be using cara aroma malt for a cinnamon bun mead. Edit: true enough for sure on the stirring up the yeast during primary since most of it won't have started settling yet anyways. I've not encountered any issues with my sloshing method which is probably why I don't bother stirring. Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jan 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 04:09
|
|
|
I have a Brown Ale that has been sitting on Brett L for about 3 months. After about 3 months more, I plan on pouring a Berliner Weisse on the yeast cake for a refreshing summer beer. I have seen a number of recipes, some involving mangos or watermelon. Any suggestions on recipes and/or fruit?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 05:00
|
|
|
ScaerCroe posted:I have a Brown Ale that has been sitting on Brett L for about 3 months. After about 3 months more, I plan on pouring a Berliner Weisse on the yeast cake for a refreshing summer beer. I have seen a number of recipes, some involving mangos or watermelon. Any suggestions on recipes and/or fruit? I've thought about making this before. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f72/drunk-owl-mango-55227/
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 06:28
|
|
|
Just got the go-ahead from the wife to start putting together a shopping list of homebrew equipment since moving and leaving everything behind. I've brewed in an apartment before but this time I'll be brewing in a small NYC apartment. Previously I was doing all-grain batches and full boil extract brews on the lazier days, both of which I can't see myself doing in the space I have. I have a pretty good gas stove but is there a way to know if it'll be able to keep 3-4+gal boiling without buying the kettle and trying? I'm looking at the morebeer kit that comes with a 7.5g kettle. Alternatively, Northern Brewer has a neat looking 3gal BIAB kit. I have no problem ending up with 3gal batches as it will allow me to brew more often and switch up what's on tap. I've heard good things about BIAB and while I've never tried the method it seems to be one of the best options for AG in an apartment.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 14:29
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:Just got the go-ahead from the wife to start putting together a shopping list of homebrew equipment since moving and leaving everything behind. I've brewed in an apartment before but this time I'll be brewing in a small NYC apartment. Previously I was doing all-grain batches and full boil extract brews on the lazier days, both of which I can't see myself doing in the space I have. I have a pretty good gas stove but is there a way to know if it'll be able to keep 3-4+gal boiling without buying the kettle and trying? I'm looking at the morebeer kit that comes with a 7.5g kettle. A decent gas stove should be able to handle 4 gallon boils no problem, I've done 5 gallon boils on my lovely apartment electric stove. It took an hour to reach a boil but it still got there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 14:43
|
|
|
It helps if your pot is big enough to span 2 burners. I used to do 10 gallon all grain on the stove top and although it took forever it worked. If your stove has trouble you can get a $40 bucket heater on Amazon to speed things up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 16:33
|
|
|
I heat additional water in an electric tea kettle to help speed up my boils / get my mash water up to temp. It's only 1.75L but it boils really quickly and makes a huge difference overall time-wise.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 16:58
|
|
|
Bruinator posted:It helps if your pot is big enough to span 2 burners. I used to do 10 gallon all grain on the stove top and although it took forever it worked. If your stove has trouble you can get a $40 bucket heater on Amazon to speed things up. I've found this tends to scorch the poo poo out of my stovetop for whatever reason.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 18:08
|
|
|
Thanks for the info everyone, getting stupidly excited about brewing again!
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 18:17
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:Just got the go-ahead from the wife to start putting together a shopping list of homebrew equipment since moving and leaving everything behind. I've brewed in an apartment before but this time I'll be brewing in a small NYC apartment. Previously I was doing all-grain batches and full boil extract brews on the lazier days, both of which I can't see myself doing in the space I have. I have a pretty good gas stove but is there a way to know if it'll be able to keep 3-4+gal boiling without buying the kettle and trying? I'm looking at the morebeer kit that comes with a 7.5g kettle. I brew all-grain in a tiny NYC apartment and while it sucks, it works. Definitely get a kettle that is large enough to span two burners. I'm able to get ~6.5 gal of wort to boiling in about 15-20 minutes that way. You can take a trip to China town and pick up a 10 gallon aluminum pot for like $50. I've not done BIAB, but that would actually be a pretty smart way to go about it. Angry Grimace posted:I've found this tends to scorch the poo poo out of my stovetop for whatever reason. I always wrap my stove top in foil (shiny side up) and that took care of that problem for me. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jan 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 19:20
|
|
|
Cleaning the hell out of the stovetop beforehand makes a big difference too. Also wipe up any splashes or spills immediately, no matter how small. If the stove will be running full-blast for hours then anything on the surface will get turned to charcoal. I couldn't figure out how I kept finding a dusting of burnt stuff baked onto my stovetop after every brew until I noticed that a little bit of dust was falling on there while I was putting the dry, crushed grain into the pot to steep at the start. Handling the grain across the room (instead of on the counter right next to the stove) and being careful not to let any dust escape while putting it in the pot made the problem go away. withak fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jan 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 20:01
|
|
|
Quick Question: My last two batches I bottled, a couple of the bottles came out super loving carbonated when I opened them, we're talking about just opening the bottle, then the head slowly erupting out the top. How can I avoid this? The recipes I have tell me to bottle then wait 4 or so weeks. Would this intense carbonation be a result of me loving up the priming sugar somehow, or not mixing it well enough or some thing else, or is it just the way it works, sometimes bottles will carbonate more than others?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 22:34
|
|
|
Not mixing could be it, but really if you pour in the sugar water then rack on top of that...its pretty hard to do anything wrong. Variation between bottles can definitely happen but I've never seen super extreme swings myself. My personal experience with overcarbed bottles falls in 2 categories: 1) Putting 5oz of the kit sugar in a beer that should not have had all 5oz used (Yay, now I use a priming calculator!) 2) Not ACTUALLY checking my volume. As in "Yeah this was a 5 gallon batch..." only to realize when I open the first rocket of a bottle that it was like 4.25gallons or something. haha. (I'm an idiot basically) ChiTownEddie fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 22:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 23:26 |
|
|
If your carbonation is highly variable across your batch, it's basically a sure thing that you didn't mix the priming sugar in well enough. People say rack on top of the sugar water, but I haven't had good luck without actually stirring.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2013 22:41
|
|
