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Same with modern Nissan's I think. My oil temp has been way up after hard run and the water in my radiator overflow bottle is boiling over but the gauge never moved from dead center. It was an unofficial hill-climb and I also managed to warp my rotors and burn out my exhaust.
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Jan 30, 2013 22:51
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It took me 6 months of ownership to find out that the oil pressure "gauge" on my Miata was just an idiot light without the light. 
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Jan 30, 2013 23:16
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11BulletCatcher posted:This picture here is exactly the same dashboard I have, only in the color that I plan on painting my someday. What's above "Cold"?
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Jan 30, 2013 23:23
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Generator
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Jan 30, 2013 23:26
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jammyozzy posted:It took me 6 months of ownership to find out that the oil pressure "gauge" on my Miata was just an idiot light without the light. If you have an NA you can easily make it a real gauge by swapping the sender and gauge. Did t in my 97.
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Jan 30, 2013 23:26
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I'm so glad the gauges in my TJ are real gauges and not idiot lights dressed up a bit. I just with the pig would get warm when it's less than 70F outside  .
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Jan 31, 2013 00:16
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Hermaphrodite posted:Generator Which really is the most useless of the bunch. Because that's only on when the key is set to "on" or "acc" And if it goes out, well...
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Jan 31, 2013 00:18
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It stops charging?
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Jan 31, 2013 00:43
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11BulletCatcher posted:Which really is the most useless of the bunch. Because that's only on when the key is set to "on" or "acc" And if it goes out, well... Its gonna come on when your alternator stops alternating.
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Jan 31, 2013 00:47
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how not to jump start a car:
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Jan 31, 2013 00:56
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jamal posted:how not to jump start a car: What. The. gently caress. How does that even happen? How do people like that not stab themselves with their shoelaces in the morning?
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Jan 31, 2013 00:57
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jamal posted:how not to jump start a car: What's wrong? Both cars seem to have released lots of energy.
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Jan 31, 2013 00:58
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Is the car on the right a tiny European subcompact with the front wheels from a Grand Cherokee SRT8?
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Jan 31, 2013 00:59
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jamal posted:how not to jump start a car: At least they destroyed something horrible. A FWD Jeep. EDIT:^^^^^^Jeep Patriot
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Jan 31, 2013 00:59
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MrYenko posted:How does that even happen? How do people like that not stab themselves with their shoelaces in the morning? Battery offgassing hydrogen + spark. Believe it or not, it's not really common knowledge that you should clip the negative clamp to something metal that isn't the battery.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:07
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thelightguy posted:Battery offgassing hydrogen + spark. Believe it or not, it's not really common knowledge that you should clip the negative clamp to something metal that isn't the battery. Bullshit they connected they shorted both batteries and they caught fire from massive vcurrent through tiny gauge wires. Hell I have some cheap HF cables that my friends mustang would make hot while trying to get it to start.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:15
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I have faith that even the most idiotic of idiots could manage to match color to color. Sparking off a battery that's offgassing because they didn't read the loving instructions on the jumper cable package? That's much more plausible.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:19
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thelightguy posted:I have faith that even the most idiotic of idiots could manage to match color to color. Sparking off a battery that's offgassing because they didn't read the loving instructions on the jumper cable package? That's much more plausible. Oh you  I've seen someone gently caress their alternator fuse by installing a battery backward. Then do it again after getting another fuse. Then when they figured it out, they flattened the battery trying to start the car. So hooked up the jumper leads backward.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:27
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thelightguy posted:I have faith that even the most idiotic of idiots could manage to match color to color. Sparking off a battery that's offgassing because they didn't read the loving instructions on the jumper cable package? That's much more plausible. I know a well respected AI goon who has done this. Not saying who, they can out themselves if they want  e: two, actually. Plus my dad, who has done engine swaps and all manner of other stuff with his cars in the past.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:29
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thelightguy posted:I have faith that even the most idiotic of idiots could manage to match color to color. Sparking off a battery that's offgassing because they didn't read the loving instructions on the jumper cable package? That's much more plausible. Possibly, but one of these batteries was flat so that could account for the inequal damage if they did put the wires on back to front. Maybe?
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Jan 31, 2013 01:30
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thelightguy posted:I have faith that even the most idiotic of idiots could manage to match color to color. My dads hosed this up before, hes a very smart man but a little oblivious sometimes.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:48
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Wasn't there a time when you matched the colours opposite to each other or something? My dad has done that too, and it looks like most of the people who have done it are older 
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Jan 31, 2013 01:51
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Seems being retarded runs in your family.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:56
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My husband (a mechanic) has hooked up jumper cables backwards before. In his defense, the dead vehicle was a 1967 Chrysler Newport that had been rebuilt by his grandpa, and the battery terminals and electrical cables had both been spray painted black. He made an educated guess as to which side was which, and was wrong. The only thing that kept the car from going up in flames was the fact that I was sitting in the donor car to keep the RPMs up and saw the smoke. We had to rebuild the whole wiring harness to the firewall.
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Jan 31, 2013 02:08
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thelightguy posted:Battery offgassing hydrogen + spark. Believe it or not, it's not really common knowledge that you should clip the negative clamp to something metal that isn't the battery. I've jump-started many friends and random strangers and all of them give me strange looks when I don't clamp the negative to the receiving vehicle's battery. The instructions are right there on their lovely cables and in their owner's manuals.
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Jan 31, 2013 02:36
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Slavvy posted:So hooked up the jumper leads backward. 
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Jan 31, 2013 02:51
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Tusen Takk posted:Wasn't there a time when you matched the colours opposite to each other or something? My dad has done that too, and it looks like most of the people who have done it are older Prior to the mid-50s, nearly all american cars were 6V POSITIVE ground. The 12V Negative Ground switchover happened from '53-'56. In theory, you could properly jumpstart a 1950 Ford with a 1957 Ford by putting red on red on one car and red on black on the other. Source: Team140 fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Jan 31, 2013 |
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Jan 31, 2013 02:51
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Team140 posted:Prior to the mid-50s, nearly all american cars were 6V POSITIVE ground. The 12V Negative Ground switchover happened from '53-'56. In theory, you could properly jumpstart a 1950 Ford with a 1957 Ford by putting red on red on one car and red on black on the other. So, you'd short-circuit one battery while only connecting one terminal to the dead battery?
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Jan 31, 2013 03:10
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What i dont get about people who short batteries when jumping is how they dont notice. As soon as you hook the cables up wrong, you can feel the cables and battery get warm and vibrate with energy. I once hooked up a 53 packard with positive ground like you would a negative, and i knew right away because the charger started making a hum that couldnt be good, and i hadnt heard anything like it, so i shut that bitch down asap. On my very first day at my very first job as the bottom level tech at a used car dealership shop I installed a battery backwards. In my defense, nobody told me anything about battery numbers or even where to find the right spec, i just grabbed one that looked identical and away i went. Problem arose because while it was the same size, the polarity was completely opposite on the terminals from the battery i removed. The battery being green cap probably distracted me from looking for the polarity marks, since i assumed it was the same. I turned the key on, and all the things that use a ground switch came on like wipers and headlights. A second later i saw the faintest hint of smoke and shut her down. In the end i only fried the immidiate harness connecting to the battery, but thinking back i cant remember if it was a dealership lot car or a customers, and i really hope it was a lot car because i probably hosed that truck up more than i realized at that time.
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Jan 31, 2013 03:35
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I, too, have been party to a jumper cable reversal. To be fair, we were at the campground at the Gorge Amphitheater the morning after Ozzfest 2000 and were all SUPER loving hung over. Only lasted a second or two before we noticed, but it burned the insulation on the jury-rigged electric radiator fan wire on my buddy's POS '87 Mercury Cougar. Drove all vehicles back to Seattle with no problems other than his occasional slight overheating going up the pass. Anyway, this here is not a *huge* failure, and it's electrical rather than mechanical, but it is pretty horrible when you hit a pothole in a rain squall and your wipers stop working!  : That's the wiper motor pulse control board out of the '98 Sonoma I just bought. The hosed up part is that there was a recall on this part - but only through the '97 model year.  Googling the part number on the board brings up something like 100 complaints specific to this problem on this model year on NHTSA's website, and apparently a good 10-15 year range of multiple GM models are affected by this. Good thing I live in the loving desert. I resoldered the joints and the wipers work again... sort of. Only the high setting works and I suspect that's always been the case, and it's probably due to the burned-out trace (which connects to a leg of a relay.) That's apparently usually co-morbid with the solder joints. I found an aftermarket board on RockAuto for $15 and will be buying one next payday. In the meantime, gently caress AC Delco and ITT Automotive with a cactus. Farmdizzle fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jan 31, 2013 |
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Jan 31, 2013 04:19
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Farmdizzle posted:I, too, have been party to a jumper cable reversal. To be fair, we were at the campground at the Gorge Amphitheater the morning after Ozzfest 2000 and were all SUPER loving hung over. Only lasted a second or two before we noticed, but it burned the insulation on the jury-rigged electric radiator fan wire on my buddy's POS '87 Mercury Cougar. Drove all vehicles back to Seattle with no problems other than his occasional slight overheating going up the pass. Something like that happens to all FC RX7's and the replacement parts are quite a bit pricier, if you can even find them
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Jan 31, 2013 04:24
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EightBit posted:Something like that happens to all FC RX7's and the replacement parts are quite a bit pricier, if you can even find them The BCM did the same thing in my Trans Am. I figured the ignition switch accessory position was going out since the radio and windows would stop working intermittently but everything else kept going. After scraping the gently caress out of my hands dropping the ignition column for enough room to change the switch I found out the issue with the BCM. It has 5 relays built onto the PCB and one of them is notorious for cold solder joints. Reheated, re-soldered, and has been like new since.
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Jan 31, 2013 04:39
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nevermind. replied without refreshing page.
emptyspace fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jan 31, 2013 |
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Jan 31, 2013 04:44
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Sorry to back up to gauge chat for a bit, but I had an '86 Alfa Romeo Spider. It had an oil-filled oil pressure gauge on the dash, which came straight off the top of the head. It led to some interesting failures with hot oil in the lap, but it was SUPER useful. There were many posts in the forums with people saying stuff like "I saw my oil at 37 normally, now it's down to 33" and the diagnosis was "#2 main bearing spun," which was correct. "37 normal, now up at 43" was "#1 or #4 bearing, probably #1," also correct. I loved that car. All the gauges were real. I could see when I had the lights on, 'cause the "amp" gauge would go up a little, and the "voltage" would drop. It was easy to tell when the battery was about to die, because the "voltage" gauge would dip WAY down, but the "amp" gauge wouldn't spike. So it's the battery, not the starter. Only bad part: the through-firewall harness was a nightmare, with two hot oil lines in it. Maybe three. I know the oil temp gauge was direct-reading and mounted in the gauge cluster, but I'm not sure if it fed from the pressure gauge or not. Content: Thankfully the coolant temp gauge had a remote sensor, because when the radiator blockage let loose, it dropped crud into the coolant system. This resulted in no coolant to the front of the engine, causing the #1 cylinder to warp, killing compression. If I can find the film, I'll get some scans, but the colors the (plastic) pulleys turned was very interesting. Thankfully the block and head were both aluminum, but the cylinder sleeve was steel, so it did a number on the block. Nothing re-sleeving wouldn't have fixed. I've also hooked cables up backwards when jumping my motorcycle, but not on purpose. That compartment is cramped, and sometimes Finagle's law means black hits red JUST AS red hits frame. Thankfully it's just a 30A fuse, and not real welding current level of disaster.
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Jan 31, 2013 04:50
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FuzzKill posted:The BCM did the same thing in my Trans Am. I figured the ignition switch accessory position was going out since the radio and windows would stop working intermittently but everything else kept going. After scraping the gently caress out of my hands dropping the ignition column for enough room to change the switch I found out the issue with the BCM. It has 5 relays built onto the PCB and one of them is notorious for cold solder joints. Reheated, re-soldered, and has been like new since. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that your PCB was made by ITT and soldered in Mexico like mine was, but it's not really an indictment of Mexican labor. I'd definitely suspect lovely engineering for the trace problem (it's obviously way too small for whatever current it's trying to flow and it looks like it's jumping over to some adjacent copper, too.) Speaking of steering columns, I get to pull mine apart and replace the ignition lock at some point to solve the problem of having to jiggle the key every other time I try to start it. Can't wait! 
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Jan 31, 2013 05:02
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Sorry to back up to gauge chat for a bit, but I had an '86 Alfa Romeo Spider. It had an oil-filled oil pressure gauge on the dash, which came straight off the top of the head. It led to some interesting failures with hot oil in the lap, but it was SUPER useful. There were many posts in the forums with people saying stuff like "I saw my oil at 37 normally, now it's down to 33" and the diagnosis was "#2 main bearing spun," which was correct. "37 normal, now up at 43" was "#1 or #4 bearing, probably #1," also correct. Hot oil lines run directly into the gauge cluster / passenger compartment?  There's not a  big enough. What the gently caress Alfa? I'd expect this out of something from the '30s maybe, you know, back when "safety features" weren't a thing.
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Jan 31, 2013 05:08
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Shouldn't be arcing, that's only 12V unless they forgot a back-EMF diode on something... and I think you missed a cracked solder joint, the one that's diagonally opposite from the pin with the scorched trace going to it. If I'm reading that relay footprint right, either the NO or the NC terminal is the one with the scorch (that's a stupid design, nowhere near enough conductor cross section to the terminal from the ground/power plane, scratch some copper off the big trace near it and run a heavy-ish wire direct from the relay terminal pad to the ground/power plane), the bottom center pin is the common pin, and the two parallel pins at the bottom (the one that's cracked and the one directly to the right of it, as opposed to down and to the right) are the coil. A lot of cracked solder joints are a result of the hole in the board being too large for the component pin/lead, the pin not protruding enough below the board to get a proper solder fillet, or the wave soldering machine being misadjusted, resulting in an inadequate solder fillet. Sometimes it's an issue with the pad size, a too small pad will result in a crummy fillet as well. Even just remelting the sketchy looking ones (too flat to the board, rather than being somewhat triangular in cross section/conical around the lead/pin) and adding a bit more solder can reduce the chances of a crack developing significantly.
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Jan 31, 2013 05:12
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Roadside assistance tried to jump my car backwards, twice. He used a box instead of a car though and just blew up his boxes, nothing happened to my car. Matching color to color is not a good idea all the time, I mean if you're gonna do anything with electricity make sure you take the 3 seconds to look for the +/- since some cars like mine have the terminal colors backwards!
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Jan 31, 2013 05:18
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L322 Rangies have two red wires. I know of a guy that hooked up his battery backwards. Killed all 24/25 computers and the 900 dollar liquid cooled alternator. I can't drat remember how many controllers the L322 has.
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Jan 31, 2013 05:33
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kastein posted:Shouldn't be arcing, that's only 12V unless they forgot a back-EMF diode on something... and I think you missed a cracked solder joint, the one that's diagonally opposite from the pin with the scorched trace going to it. If I'm reading that relay footprint right, either the NO or the NC terminal is the one with the scorch (that's a stupid design, nowhere near enough conductor cross section to the terminal from the ground/power plane, scratch some copper off the big trace near it and run a heavy-ish wire direct from the relay terminal pad to the ground/power plane), the bottom center pin is the common pin, and the two parallel pins at the bottom (the one that's cracked and the one directly to the right of it, as opposed to down and to the right) are the coil. Yeah, I'm no EE, but what you're saying makes sense. I just thought it was odd that the burn jumps from one trace to another like it does. I can definitely tell something's getting a little too warm! And I'm also sure there's definitely a reason that the aftermarket board I'm going to buy looks completely different as far as its componentry. The funny thing is the ad copy makes vague reference to this being a common problem with the OEM units. babyeatingpsychopath posted:Finagle's law Oh man, I can't believe I'd never heard this term before, but it's awesome. I used to (like 12 years or so ago) work as a crew chief at Jiffy Lube, and always got a chuckle when a newbie tech would drag a dipstick over a positive battery post.  Speaking of newbie techs: one time we were running a transmission flush (T-Tech) that piggybacks off the cooler lines, and the machine had no built in end-of-cycle recirc switchover, so if you didn't shut off the motor after the flush was done you'd wind up with ATF dumping out of the back of the machine. During the service the tech had hopped in the driver's seat and gone through the gears to get fluid to flow to the cooler. Going into drive had caused the doors to lock, and dumbass didn't notice. He also left the window up for some other stupid reason. So, of course he freaks out when the cylinder is almost full of used ATF and he can't get in the car to shut it off. I run over and figure out what's going on in about 5 seconds, and almost without thinking I yanked the coil wire to kill the motor. It worked brilliantly, but unfortunately my other hand was on the fender. Fortunately said fender was wearing a mat. Still, my arms jerked back about 4 or 5 times as the motor was coming to a halt because the coil was still trying to fire. That tech got an earful about leaving windows down on vehicles being serviced.
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Jan 31, 2013 05:37
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