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cendien posted:He was basing this assumption on the fact that the clutch is engaging at the top of the pedal. That doesn't mean anything. BMWs, as well as most cars with a manual transmission, have a self-adjusting mechanism in the clutch. As stated above, the only way to know it needs replacement is if you drop the transmission or if it starts slipping. My understanding is that in the 330, most people see something like 120-150k out of a clutch, provided it hasn't been routinely abused.
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Jan 29, 2013 21:17
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Just ordered the parts to refresh my VANOS today (and front endlinks) to hopefully take care of my 900RPM hiccuping idle, lack of power under 3k, and exhaust camshaft position error codes. Does anyone have any words of wisdom for doing seals and gaskets on a dual-VANOS engine? The writeup on beisansystems.com is stunningly thorough, and I'm going to do the VANOS oil feed line and oil filter housing gasket while I'm in the area.MrChips posted:That doesn't mean anything. BMWs, as well as most cars with a manual transmission, have a self-adjusting mechanism in the clutch. As stated above, the only way to know it needs replacement is if you drop the transmission or if it starts slipping. Taught two or three people to drive on my 5sp 330i, aside from that I'm a spirited driver and have always downshifted when braking, at 124k miles right now and the clutch is just fine. Anecdotal evidence! Cellular Suicide fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 21:21
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My 2002 330i 5 speed has 129k miles and still on original clutch and vanos. I've kept a log of all my upgrades (shocks/struts/sways/control arms/etc/etc/etc) and maintenance items (sensors, cooling, brakes/ misc other stuff) and fluids, etc (and including around $2k in indy shop labor) - and I've totaled nearly $9k. Most after 2008, when the CPO maintenance expired. I bought the car for $30k back in 2005 with 44k miles. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 21:25
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Minimaul posted:Bought this as a winter beater/daily driver: Welcome to the F30 club  There's you, me, and...uh... 
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Jan 29, 2013 23:17
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Cellular Suicide posted:Taught two or three people to drive on my 5sp 330i, aside from that I'm a spirited driver and have always downshifted when braking, at 124k miles right now and the clutch is just fine. Anecdotal evidence! 5sp 325i, nearly 140k miles, still the original clutch as far as I know. I thought it was slipping once at the drag strip, but it was just the loving CDV.
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Jan 30, 2013 00:43
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Well, it looks like a couple of problems have just cropped up in my E46. I got a headlight flicker as I was coming home, so I guess it's time to check the grounds in the tail lights. This is a bit surprising, as I was under the impression the problem wss limited to sedans only. Also, I've developed a rumble/vibration at about 75 mph. It could be the cold (-6F today) just making things cranky (I'll have to investigate when it gets warmer in a couple of days), but it shows all the classic symptoms of the center bearing going bad. Either that, or it could be a bad rear wheel bearing.
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Jan 30, 2013 01:09
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Is there some documented connection between "headlight flicker" and tail lights? I have never heard of that. One thing I've found with the taillight bulbs in my E46's (two since 2000) is, even if they haven't gone "out" yet, they may still kick off an error light. You can replace them one by one with brand new ones and see which is having the problem. Perhaps the resistance has dropped as the light begins to die....hell if I know. I also did solder in the extra ground several years ago as well but I still had an "about to go" bulb need replacing back in 2011 - no error lights since. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 01:17
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rscott posted:Same height and you aint joking. I've been looking for a couple of these. Any other source? I have no idea why, but the cheapest shipping they offer doubles the total price. It's not on Amazon or something, is it?
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Jan 30, 2013 01:30
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No idea, I had them ship to my work and it was free to ship USPS v v
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Jan 30, 2013 01:54
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sean10mm posted:Welcome to the F30 club Haha. Well aren't we the special ones. Been driving an x3 the past few days and it snowed a bit last night. Drives like poo poo on the all seasons. I drove my m3 today cause its got my school parking permit, and it's a loving champ in the snow with blizzaks on it. gently caress all seasons. Two things ill do when I get mine is a clear bra, then some winter tires, even though winter is half over. AWD is nice, but pointless with lovely tires. It's almost tempting to order a rwd 328 so I can get a manual and just put awesome tires on it! But then AWD with awesome winter tires will be amazing, so there's that.
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Jan 30, 2013 03:46
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Rakekniven posted:Wow, the current M3 has really taken a depreciation beating hasn't it? are there any other major issues with the current M3? Some cars do have idle air control valve issues that have been fixed under warranty. There was a recall to reseal the rear diff. I don't know of any other glaring issues (compared to say head bolt issues on the c63) and the depreciation jump is due to more and more of them coming off of warranty. I'm not sure what level of repair-ability the DCT is at now, but I wouldn't want to own a DCT car out of warranty as it does list for $14K. The 2008s have the older iDrive and are pre LCI.
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Jan 30, 2013 04:45
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e46 328i- 196k and the clutch STILL isn't slipping. With proper care they can last a long time. The 328 never came with the CDV, so treated well that would help it last longer.
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Jan 30, 2013 04:45
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I started up my 90k 2003 330i this evening and was met with violent shaking at cold idle. It smoothed out when I raised the revs, and after 45 seconds the idle returned to normal. I drove it around without any problems after that. It is 60F in my garage so not particularly cold, and no warning lights went on. I had the idle control valve replaced 10k miles ago, but this shaking was much more violent rather than just a little shaky/unstable. The whole car was shaking as a result. What could this be?
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Jan 30, 2013 06:43
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coincidental earthquake.
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Jan 30, 2013 06:48
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Rakekniven posted:Wow, the current M3 has really taken a depreciation beating hasn't it? A new one invoices for 55k. You get no 5 year warranty and probably a lot of miles on the car for a 28k savings. Its not exactly "crazy" depreciation depending on how many repairs will happen over the next 4 years, and the fact that their maintenance program covers Engine Oil Services: $0 Inspection Services: $0 Wiper Blade Inserts: $0 Brake Pads: $0 Brake Discs: $0 Engine Drive Belts: $0 Brake Fluid Service: $0
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Jan 30, 2013 09:52
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ynotony posted:I started up my 90k 2003 330i this evening and was met with violent shaking at cold idle. It smoothed out when I raised the revs, and after 45 seconds the idle returned to normal. I drove it around without any problems after that. It is 60F in my garage so not particularly cold, and no warning lights went on. I had the idle control valve replaced 10k miles ago, but this shaking was much more violent rather than just a little shaky/unstable. The whole car was shaking as a result. What could this be? You engine could have just been getting into the right rhythm to shake your car back and forth.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:20
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Minimaul posted:AWD is nice, but pointless with lovely tires. I wish the general public would understand this. AWD, with all its added expense and complexity, is all the rage these days and yet people still slap the cheapest, shittiest tires they can find on to save a buck - or out of just sheer ignorance. My RWD 330ci with Blizzaks is my ski car and I've seen so many AWD cars and SUVs in ditches or stuck in ruts on what I can only presume are lovely tires. I have to really start hooning in the snow to be sliding significantly. I've only gotten stuck once due to a clearance issue in a particularly rutted out parking lot, and it only took a couple of minutes to dig out.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:45
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Guinness posted:I wish the general public would understand this. AWD, with all its added expense and complexity, is all the rage these days and yet people still slap the cheapest, shittiest tires they can find on to save a buck - or out of just sheer ignorance. Manufacturers do this too, most new cars come with poo poo tires to save a few mpg.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:52
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Guinness posted:I wish the general public would understand this. AWD, with all its added expense and complexity, is all the rage these days and yet people still slap the cheapest, shittiest tires they can find on to save a buck - or out of just sheer ignorance. Yeah I hear you. People do the same poo poo here, in Alaska. We're dominated by SUVs, trucks and AWD cars, and it's usually the SUVs and trucks in the ditches on the lovely days. AWD and the higher stance seems to give people a false sense of "I defy the laws of physics." I've pretty much always driven two wheel drives cars. It's been about 7 years since I last had something with awd/4WD. In almost three full winters, I've been stuck twice. Once last year i went into a pseudo ditch backing down a small decline of my parents' driveway. And once this year when I got high centered at a traffic stop by losing momentum and my m3 being too low. With good tires, it's only usually the deep snow that gets me. On those days it sucks for everyone though. The day I got high centered, I had parallel parked when it was snowing and we already had a few inches. Walking away I was like "I should move to a better spot... Nah, gently caress it." At the end of the day I go to leave and I brushed away the snow that went up past the bottom doors and fell into my footwell. Then maneuvered myself out, had to rock a bit and managed to get out somehow. after pulling out of parking lot I'm all "why is my car driving so shittily?!" Turns out I left the ebrake on! It'll be nice to have AWD with good tires and not be lowered and not have to worry about the few extra things that I do in winter driving my m3. Though in a pinch or not always lovely winter weather Rwd with good tires is fine. I'm on a personal "anti-all-season tires" mission and rant and rave about how lovely they are any chance I get. My favorite analogy is saying "all season tires are like the "pulling out" of tire safety. Sure, you can do it, by eventually you'll have an accident." Minimaul fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 20:15
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I do have a set of winters for my E60, but I have just decided to park it in the winter. But it does amazingly well on the snow until the snow gets above the front air dam. Then it starts to suck, but really, I do well. The RR now has all-terrain tires though. Not the best tires on snow, but gently caress, the AWD system in it is so good, its hard to really care.
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Jan 30, 2013 20:18
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Minimaul posted:I'm on a personal "anti-all-season tires" mission and rant and rave about how lovely they are any chance I get. My favorite analogy is saying "all season tires are like the "pulling out" of tire safety. Sure, you can do it, by eventually you'll have an accident." Ever since I switched to having two sets of wheels with two sets of quality tires on each (Blizzaks for snow, Pilot Sports for everything else), I've seen the light. Even my "summer" tires outperform every all-season tire (even supposedly good ones) I've ever used in all conditions short of snow by a huge margin, and the Blizzaks put all-seasons to utter shame in snow and ice. All-seasons more like no-seasons, am I rite??
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Jan 30, 2013 20:28
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Guinness posted:Ever since I switched to having two sets of wheels with two sets of quality tires on each (Blizzaks for snow, Pilot Sports for everything else), I've seen the light. Even my "summer" tires outperform every all-season tire (even supposedly good ones) I've ever used in all conditions short of snow by a huge margin, and the Blizzaks put all-seasons to utter shame in snow and ice. I haven't been able to drop the cash on a set of 16" rims and two sets of tires, and I'm on my third set of all-seasons. First up were Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS "Pole Position" - named such because in anything other than warm dry pavement you're running into a pole. They were absolutely awful in rain or anything under about 40F, dead in ~25k miles. Replaced them with Fuzion HRi bargain bins, they completely fell part and were poo poo even on dry pavement, dead in ~15k miles. Been running Continental ContiExtremeContact DWS for ~15k miles and they have been great so far. I think good all-seasons are very few and far between but if I do end up with another round of tires before I can outlay for winter/summer sets it will be these again without hesitation. Low road noise, haven't had a traction problem through two Minnesota winters, and the tread looks pretty meaty still.
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Jan 30, 2013 20:36
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To be fair I use Goodyear Eagle GT on my E36 M3 which are "all season" tires and I have absolutely no grip issues in the winter. Then again I live in Seattle so snow isn't an issue, and rain happens all year, so I just need good tires for rain. And while they aren't terribly expensive, these aren't bargain-basement tires either.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:14
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I had Eagle GTs on my Miata at one point, and they were probably the best all-season I've experienced. They were fine for getting around, but they still don't even compare to the Pilot Sports on my E46 when getting a bit more aggressive, even in Seattle winter rain. If I wasn't a frequent skier I would probably keep the Michelins on all year and just not drive on the rare snow day in the lowlands. If you never touch snow or sub-zero temps then "summer" tires perform better than all-seasons in pretty much any condition.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:46
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Kenshin posted:To be fair I use Goodyear Eagle GT on my E36 M3 which are "all season" tires and I have absolutely no grip issues in the winter. Same here in Portland. My E46 has pilot sport A/S tires on it and handles and drives great. I'm sure it'd handle even better with summer tires for the couple months it is dry here, but I'm not about to shell out ~$2000+ for a second set of wheels+blizzaks just for the two days every other year where we get 3" of slushy snow nor shell out for summer tires that would spend 9-10 months of the year in storage because they make my car undrivable in a light drizzle. All seasons are a bad idea in any place that gets real snow in winter, but for over half the inhabited area of the US, they're fine for general purpose driving. Also, since we don't get serious snow here, they don't salt the roads, so cars over 10 years old aren't automatically rust traps...
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Jan 30, 2013 22:21
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I understand and agree that not all places need specific winter tires. My rants are directed to Alaskans, or anyone else that lives in a place that actually has a wintery winter. If I lived in a place that I could get away with it, I would only use A/S's or summers only. Sometimes I wish that was the case. But since I like being in control and having grip in my car I have a summer/winter setup and I wish more people here did it. Winter tires are lovely to drive on in non-winter conditions, so I wouldn't recommend people to use them if it doesn't snow often where they live.
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Jan 30, 2013 23:05
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My self-healing krautmobile has done it again. I even told my wife that as soon as Beisan Systems and ECS charges went through on my card that everything would magically clear up. Beisan has incredible turnover and the seals got here in two days, showed up this morning. Went to pick up a few tools I needed and a mile away from home the car sputtered and and nearly died after a stop, and promptly went from idling rough at 900RPM to a buttery smooth 1,100RPM. After that I decided to go to the Advance that's 30 minutes away with a 10 minute interstate stretch instead of the one 10 minutes away to see how things would shake out. gently caress me sideways, when I stopped for the first time after the highway it was suddenly back to a 600RPM perfectly smooth idle. Low-end power is completely back. I had a hard time deciding whether to just go ahead and do the VANOS refresh I have ordered up, and I've decided that if it ain't broke I'm not fixing it. These are some financially shaky times for me and if I can save even just the $110 I spent on everything it would help. If symptoms come back in weeks, months, etc. I know exactly what to replace and how to do it.  on the VANOS exhaust solenoid being filled with gunk after switching oil and replacing the CCV, and just having dislodged itself now
Cellular Suicide fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jan 31, 2013 |
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Jan 31, 2013 00:46
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Well I pulled the trigger on that silver '03 330xi from a couple pages back. It came with the premium package in addition to sport and cold-weather, as well as complete maintenance records. All of the work until 2008 was done at a dealership, and after that at an independent shop. It had its thermostat done 13k miles ago, and I'm doing the oil filter housing gasket and a bunch of cooling system poo poo this weekend. Other than that it needs new tires, and its set. Anyone have any experience running an aftermarket bluetooth to stereo with steering wheel controls installation? Should I go with a DICE Mediabridge or a Parrot CK3000, or is there some new poo poo I haven't found yet?
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Jan 31, 2013 01:07
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Figured I'd get in on the snow tire chat. I live in south central Wisconsin and own an E30 325iS. I've had both the E30 iS and iX and I still prefer RWD with a good set of snow tires. My set of snows has long since ceased to be "good," but when they were new I'd be passing SUVs and pickups in the ditch in my tiny krautmobile, even with my stupid low front lip. I'll take RWD with a good set of Blizzaks over AWD and all-seasons any day, or even AWD and snows honestly. It's just too much fun to go from awesome traction to sideways with generous application of the gas pedal. Getting the iX sideways on Blizzaks took a terrifying amount of throttle and inertia.
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Jan 31, 2013 02:23
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Good luck finding a Dice Mediabridge, as far as I can tell, Audiovox bought Dice and promptly discontinued the Mediabridge. I ended up just getting a USA-Spec iPod interface kit, since I couldn't find anyplace that still had mediabridges in stock and I really didn't care that much about the Bluetooth anyways.
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Jan 31, 2013 02:26
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I have a NEO Prolink for my iPod, which works great. http://www.neocaraudio.com/cars/2003_BMW_3SERIES
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Jan 31, 2013 05:44
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The similar product from Bavarian Soundwerks ("Soundplicity") is supposed to be pretty simple to install. I haven't done enough research on it though, iphone integration is waaaay down my to-do list after fixing suspension, driveline, and leaks.
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Jan 31, 2013 17:28
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High mileage S52 Z3 M coupe as a street-legal trackday toy -- good idea or terrible idea? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/3573455975.html http://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/listings/listing.aspx?ListingID=1837 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/3564452331.html http://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/listings/listing.aspx?ListingID=1726
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Jan 31, 2013 18:15
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Hog Obituary posted:High mileage S52 Z3 M coupe as a street-legal trackday toy -- good idea or terrible idea? Seems ok, I would plan on needing to reinforcing the rear subframe at some point. 99's had shift detent problems too.
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Jan 31, 2013 19:30
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I second reinforcing the subframe, its a notorious problem with the mz3s. And keep in mind you're paying a premium for what is basically an e36 M3 with e30 rear suspension. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely lust after them but the difference in price points can buy a lot of track parts. You also can't reasonably fit 4 track tires in the car. If you want to run rcomps you need a trailer or a support vehicle.
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Jan 31, 2013 20:22
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BraveUlysses posted:99's had shift detent problems too. If you're already breaking it open for the clutch or something, which seems likely for high mileage track toy, it's an easy thing to go ahead and take care of.
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Jan 31, 2013 20:45
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Crustashio posted:I second reinforcing the subframe, its a notorious problem with the mz3s. And keep in mind you're paying a premium for what is basically an e36 M3 with e30 rear suspension. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely lust after them but the difference in price points can buy a lot of track parts. You know it's not like the M coupe is that much lighter than an E36 M3 - so might as well just get one of those then huh. http://home.comcast.net/~w_family/1998_M3_update.htm (i actually like the sedan better, cause well... if you're gonna have 4 seats might as well have 4 doors)
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Jan 31, 2013 20:54
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Picking up my car today! Good thing too because I was having a lovely day and this makes it better. My second new car ever!
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Jan 31, 2013 22:08
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So I just got back from a conference and went to the airport parking garage only to discover I lost my key! $400 and 24 hours. I pray I get a new key tomorrow around noon. Also the parts guy at BMW Seattle is a loving moron. Has anyone ever had very serious problems getting a new key? I'm surprised he didn't take a stool and blood sample from me because he just couldn't believe that it was my car.
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Jan 31, 2013 22:29
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Crustashio posted:I second reinforcing the subframe, its a notorious problem with the mz3s. And keep in mind you're paying a premium for what is basically an e36 M3 with e30 rear suspension. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely lust after them but the difference in price points can buy a lot of track parts. Roof rack! krysmopompas posted:Everything with a zf 320 had the shift detent problem, so almost everything with an m52 '96+. It's not really a big deal since it only happens in the cold at first, then most people seem to get 20k miles out before they start to lose gates or lean more frequently. It was fixed on MY 2000-2002 M Coupes
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Jan 31, 2013 22:42
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