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clutchpuck posted:Took the caps and bowls off the XS750's carburetors for the pine sol dip. By the look of the bowls, I imagine something is clogged up somewhere. I should probably clean out the tank real good, too. Definitely check the float levels to make sure they are in spec and equal across the carbs. The wrong float height can gently caress up your AF mixture noticeably through all the circuits. Too much fuel in the bowl = rich, too little = lean. Since you have pulled them apart, you need to synch the carbs. Do a bench synch to get them into the ballpark, but you really should vacuum synch them. If you don't have a manometer/vacuum gauge, a bench synch will get you pretty close and definitely puts you in position to ride. See if you can borrow a vacuum gauge or get a shop to do the vacuum synch. It doesn't take long to vacuum synch, and with good bench synch, you can follow up with a real synch more or less at leisure.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 17:23 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 03:07 |
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Z3n posted:Any streetfighter is worthless to a thief. The value parts are the shiny bits. I don't know about that, all the streetfighters belonging to people I know have stupidly expensive shiny parts on them.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 18:17 |
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Tightened the noisy chain that was slacker than a priest's arsehole, and diagnosed the front vibration problem (warped brake rotor). The engine now makes new and worse-sounding noises Although that might be because I've just left the fairing around the engine off, it just looks so much better!
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 18:43 |
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Tamir Lenk posted:Since you have pulled them apart, you need to synch the carbs. I haven't actually separated them, they're on the rack and together, just opened up. I haven't even touched the air screws. But, yeah, they needed a sync about 6 years ago when I stopped riding it so a vacuum sync is one of the items on the list; if I can get it going good enough I'll hook it up to the Twinmax thing my wife got for her beemer and see what's doin'. Two bad it isn't a "triplemax". Float levels seem like a pretty straightforward thing. Maybe I should get a new float needle valve and seat while they're opened up. Some of the float tang things are bent weirdly, so I wouldn't be surprised if messed up float levels were part of the reason the bike never ran right for me. I can just straighten that stuff out and set the levels, right? As far as jets go, what am I looking for here; where should I be putting the carb cleaner? I see the little brass looking guy that the slide needle thing sits in and a tube that goes from the bottom of the bowl up to what looks like the enrichener circuit. I'm also going to squirt some cleaner through the fuel lines but that's pretty much all I can identify. Wootcannon posted:The engine now makes new and worse-sounding noises Motorcycle engines make noises. You'll get used to it. Once you're comfortable with how it sounds, you'll identify another noise. e: e: e: e: hey at least I'm not quad-posting. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 1, 2013 |
# ? Feb 1, 2013 18:57 |
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echomadman posted:I don't know about that, all the streetfighters belonging to people I know have stupidly expensive shiny parts on them. Like what?
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 19:07 |
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clutchpuck posted:I haven't actually separated them, they're on the rack and together, just opened up. I haven't even touched the air screws. But, yeah, they needed a sync about 6 years ago when I stopped riding it so a vacuum sync is one of the items on the list; if I can get it going good enough I'll hook it up to the Twinmax thing my wife got for her beemer and see what's doin'. Two bad it isn't a "triplemax". Once you disrupt the needle slide assemblies, they will fall out of synch, even if the carb bodies are still racked. Definitely inspect the float needles and seats, but you don't want to replace them. The needle/seats that come with rebuild kits are terrible, and OEM needle/seat pairs are expensive. Check the needle for wear at the tips, looking/feeling for a ring where it hits the seat. Then place the needle in the seat and blow through the seat as you gingerly ease the needle closed (does anyone else get a weird boner reading that?). If your cheeks fill like blowing up a balloon, good to go. Otherwise, that needle/seat has to go. This guy walks through rebuilding your carbs. http://www.yamahatriples.com/index.php/how_tos/carb-rebuild-mikuni-mark-2/ I would ignore his recommendations on the K&L kits though. The brass parts in those kits suck. I think your carbs are the same Mikuni CV carbs used on Suzuki bikes in 1980 (my carbs are the older VM type). If so, this CV rebuild guide is much better. http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf Unless you mangled a jet or changed the air filter system or pipes, you should not need any new jets. Stick with the old brass after cleaning it up, or replace jets with actual Mikuni bits as needed. The jets in those kits are poo poo (MLMP). HTH
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 19:37 |
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the walkin dude posted:Would a Buell headlight fit the bill of not arousing intrigue? For what it's worth whenever I park my Buell on the street nobody as much as glances at it, maybe it's because it's all black, maybe because it doesn't look like it's a sportbike.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 19:45 |
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People ask me if I built mine myself; it must be really ugly. Hell yes it does, those links answered a lot of my questions. Thanks! Oh and I found a pic of the bike... it doesn't have the back rest or windshield anymore and it's getting a new handlebar if it runs. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Feb 1, 2013 |
# ? Feb 1, 2013 19:51 |
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Right - the problem is that all of those items are easily recognizeable, and have a pretty small market. A single piece of GSX-R 600 fairing in good shape will sell for 200 bucks easy, and is very untraceable with a huge potential pool of buyers. Same reason it's rare to get custom painted bikes, or other rare custom upgraded bikes stolen. There's not exactly a lot of riders out there with ISR/Brembo brakes, LSL triples, etc. I love buying racebikes with upgrades like that because there's a decent amount of money in them, but the market is very small and not very anonymous.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 22:07 |
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Z3n posted:Right - the problem is that all of those items are easily recognizeable, and have a pretty small market. A single piece of GSX-R 600 fairing in good shape will sell for 200 bucks easy, and is very untraceable with a huge potential pool of buyers. Same reason it's rare to get custom painted bikes, or other rare custom upgraded bikes stolen. There's not exactly a lot of riders out there with ISR/Brembo brakes, LSL triples, etc. I love buying racebikes with upgrades like that because there's a decent amount of money in them, but the market is very small and not very anonymous. Z3n is literally a criminal mastermind ITT.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 22:16 |
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Z3n posted:Right - the problem is that all of those items are easily recognizeable, and have a pretty small market. A single piece of GSX-R 600 fairing in good shape will sell for 200 bucks easy, and is very untraceable with a huge potential pool of buyers. Same reason it's rare to get custom painted bikes, or other rare custom upgraded bikes stolen. There's not exactly a lot of riders out there with ISR/Brembo brakes, LSL triples, etc. I love buying racebikes with upgrades like that because there's a decent amount of money in them, but the market is very small and not very anonymous. poo poo stolen here (Ireland) goes to England or Eastern Europe and poo poo stolen there comes here usually, if you don't find your bike burnt out in a ditch somewhere within a few days its either gone out of the country or put away till its needed as a getaway vehicle for a robbery or murder
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 22:28 |
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echomadman posted:poo poo stolen here (Ireland) goes to England or Eastern Europe and poo poo stolen there comes here usually, if you don't find your bike burnt out in a ditch somewhere within a few days its either gone out of the country or put away till its needed as a getaway vehicle for a robbery or murder Most of the bikes stolen out here stay here, AFAIK - but then again, most thefts I see are joyrides. The expensive bikes (high end Ducs/Aprilias) generally disappear entirely, probably sent overseas. Tamir Lenk posted:Z3n is literally a criminal mastermind ITT. http://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/t5shp/ex_thief_chopshop_operator_ama/ (And talking to cops/etc out here in the bay)
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 22:44 |
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clutchpuck posted:Motorcycle engines make noises. You'll get used to it. Once you're comfortable with how it sounds, you'll identify another noise. You know one thing that you really can't find online is a good "What the gently caress noise is my bike making?" guide. Like I'm to this day still slightly freaked out by the loving terrible noise the Shiver's water pump makes, it's got a real "Holy poo poo your bike is gonna explode right now" vibe to it - like really bad camchain or valve noise, but quieter, and every once in a while I have to use the old screwdriver trick to convince myself it's still the water pump. Mind you I suppose it would have to be model-specific because the noises a Ducati makes when idling are a sign to call the bomb squad if your Honda starts making them.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 23:37 |
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Z3n posted:Most of the bikes stolen out here stay here, AFAIK - but then again, most thefts I see are joyrides. The expensive bikes (high end Ducs/Aprilias) generally disappear entirely, probably sent overseas. Most modern bikes are broken for parts - easier and less traceable, and probably more profitable if the bike's clean.
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# ? Feb 1, 2013 23:39 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:You know one thing that you really can't find online is a good "What the gently caress noise is my bike making?" guide. Like I'm to this day still slightly freaked out by the loving terrible noise the Shiver's water pump makes, it's got a real "Holy poo poo your bike is gonna explode right now" vibe to it - like really bad camchain or valve noise, but quieter, and every once in a while I have to use the old screwdriver trick to convince myself it's still the water pump. The sound that a Ducati 1098/1198 makes when it's starting sound like the end of the goddamn world. It sounds like the pistons are hitting the valves. I don't know if it's the starter clutch or the dry clutch or what but seriously it sounds like you just threw a bunch of rocks into the combustion chamber. goddamnedtwisto posted:Most modern bikes are broken for parts - easier and less traceable, and probably more profitable if the bike's clean. Yeah, I think the joyride thing is mostly a bay area thing. All the bikes I saw stolen elsewhere disappeared without a trace. There is actually a somewhat reasonable chance of recovery in the bay, although you probably wouldn't want the bike back at that point. (Obviously anncedote/not data etc)
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 00:04 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:You know one thing that you really can't find online is a good "What the gently caress noise is my bike making?" guide. Like I'm to this day still slightly freaked out by the loving terrible noise the Shiver's water pump makes, it's got a real "Holy poo poo your bike is gonna explode right now" vibe to it - like really bad camchain or valve noise, but quieter, and every once in a while I have to use the old screwdriver trick to convince myself it's still the water pump. Yeah, I'm always sitting there wondering, "Is it supposed to make that noise?". And Youtube videos never really capture the full engine sound properly.
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 00:27 |
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When in doubt, "it's supposed to make that noise."
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 00:28 |
clutchpuck posted:When in doubt, "it's supposed to make that noise." I nearly shat my pants the other day thinking my bike had developed a new and disturbing gearbox noise. Turns out it always makes that noise and my leg just muffles it. You can hear the change when you move your leg away from the tank.
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 01:05 |
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Mine makes all kinds of noise that make me go . but I added pod filters so I don't hear the noises anymore.
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 01:23 |
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Ha, I remember the very first time I opened the throttle up more than 3k RPM. To me, the noise felt/sounded like there was a chainsaw fight inside my bike and was on the verge of exploding.
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 08:16 |
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The first time I stretched my legs out after doing the PAV (pulsed air valve) removal/pod filter modification I freaked out because the bike makes a horrible "duck quack" burble noise from the crankcase breather that is normally routed through the PAV and catch can, but my legs muffle it. It sounds like a heater core in a car with an air bubble trapped in it (water rushing noise).
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 08:26 |
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Replaced the old, grungy, beat-up gas cap with a new shiny one and a stronger CNC-machined latch. Very purty now. Also received in the mail today: proper sized retrofit H4 headlamp (awesome) and 2x micro-voltmeters I'm going to make a little housing for to keep an eye on the battery charge. Looking forward to finding the time for all that manufacturing and installation.
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# ? Feb 2, 2013 08:44 |
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The accepted greeting when meeting another KTM rider with the same bike as you is "Oh good, yours makes that noise too!". Did the oil and filters today and tightened up the cam chain. The left side fork seal is getting worse; more than just a smear now. So that's the next job to do.
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 20:18 |
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Well, yesterday, anyway, I was working on the '79 CM400T. I replaced the choke cable (what a bitch to reconnect to the carburetor, way down under the frame and such). Then I replaced the nasty old buckhorn bars with some new daytona bars: Then I put some Seafoam in the tank and went out for a late lunch, making sure to kick-start it every time because kick-starting is awesome. Still need new mirrors, at least now I can see to the sides but they don't show what's directly behind me. I can only assume these useless pieces of poo poo are just ornamental mirrors stolen from some mod's scooter.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 04:19 |
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I actually rode it today for the first time in 3 or so months! Come on spring! Put together my wheel stand which will make it simpler to take the front wheel off. Managed to scratch my rear rim because the bead breaker I bought won't safely take a rim as wide as mine - it fit on the pads but as you push down on the breaker bar it pushed the rim into the bolts which hold it together So I tried the C-clamp method to break the bead, but that 190/50ZR17 Battlax is a stubborn bitch and the clamps would actually begin to slide off as I got it close Screw it. I'm taking it to my local independent tire shop to do it. If there is a bright spot though, the rear wheel on the connie is super easy to take off. Probably would take me all of 10 minutes now even including a few hits of whatever beverage I am drinking at the time. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Feb 4, 2013 |
# ? Feb 4, 2013 04:51 |
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Put together my new retrofit H4 headlamp! Needed to bend the tabs a little bit to make them fit the horizontal adjuster nut, but otherwise it fits perfectly and is about three times as bright as the old unit. This particular lamp: http://store.candlepower.com/ca631quheleu.html The high beam is especially wonderful, and this is only a 45w unit. When I get the new alternator installed, I could just pop in a 60 and have some really serious output! The whole thing is also slightly shallower than the original sealed beam, which is odd because it looked a lot deeper initially...but shallower is great cause it leaves plenty of room for the rat's nest. Of course, I forgot that I now also need an H4 connector to wire it up. Easy part to find at AutoZone but annoying...I wanted to ride tonight and try it out. Sigh.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 05:08 |
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Actually did this yesterday but forgot to post about it - finally got round to tracking down the rattle from the front of my bike that I had variously convinced myself was a collapsed wheel bearing, loose head bearings, or the entire frame about to implode into a singularity. Turns out the panel on the back of the headlight unit had got loose and was bouncing against the frame. Also broke my "no-wash winter" policy because the sheer filth of the bike was depressing me. It's a good way of avoiding corrosion caused by road salt, basically letting late autumn/early-winter grime form a protective crust over vulnerable areas. I tried not to over-wash, so my bike looks kinda weird with sparkling clean plastics and still mostly filthy metal parts, but there you go.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 08:44 |
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Noticed the fairings weren't quite sitting right for some reason, got down there to fix Looks like someone rode my bike over a gutter, it wasn't me as far as I know, maybe one of my friends. Ugh, It makes me want to have the whole panel resprayed but I know it's too expensive to do so. Yeah, she needs a wash too. I'll get around to that on the weekend.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 10:10 |
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I discovered a weird noise from my bike just after I had gotten my garage spot last year, it was like a high pitched ringing noise from the front of the bike that only showed up at certain combinations of speed and rpm, and not consistently either. I spent about a week worrying something was about to break and trying to track it down before I found it was the garage door key jingling against the steering head.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 10:27 |
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Hahaha, been there done that.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 12:53 |
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That's what led me to not have any keys attached to my motorcycle's key ring.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 19:36 |
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My wife was complaining about her engine pinging on a trip to California, but it ended up being a box of Tic-tacs in her jacket's map pocket.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 19:38 |
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I finished up the nacelle fork boot combo. Before After
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 20:21 |
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Sagebrush posted:Put together my new retrofit H4 headlamp! Needed to bend the tabs a little bit to make them fit the horizontal adjuster nut, but otherwise it fits perfectly and is about three times as bright as the old unit. This particular lamp: http://store.candlepower.com/ca631quheleu.html Quoting this as somewhat of a bookmark. Looking for a good quality headlight for my SV's naked conversion and this seems awesome!
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 20:52 |
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On Saturday, I removed 2 of the 3 jets in each of the XS750's carbs and inspected/cleaned them. All the ones I got out were super clean; I could see right through all the perforations on the needle jets, no varnish or anything. Not sure if they were actually that clean or if the pine sol really did the trick on the jets. When I hold the whole rack up to the light and look down the bores, the light coming from behind the butterflies are really uneven. The linkage was really out of wack, getting those in alignment will probably help. For the last jet, I need a long, tiny screwdriver that I don't have... probably pick that up today.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 21:13 |
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Sagebrush posted:Put together my new retrofit H4 headlamp! Needed to bend the tabs a little bit to make them fit the horizontal adjuster nut, but otherwise it fits perfectly and is about three times as bright as the old unit. This particular lamp: http://store.candlepower.com/ca631quheleu.html Are you sure your old system can handle pulling that much power? I know with the RD guys run a 30W H4 because the electrical system can't handle pulling any more than that.
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# ? Feb 4, 2013 21:17 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Where in Rochester do you live? Some places were really terrible. I lived in the 19th Ward for a while and would not want to leave any sort of decent bike out. South Wedge. It's not bad here (up-and-coming, with lots of young people), other than the occasional poo poo dumped on my bikes (like partially-eaten pizza slices). I pull my bikes up into my little garden outside by my apartment's entrance, lock their rear tires with Kryptonite U-locks, and use covers. And this NitroSpazzz posted:HAHA holy poo poo is this too fun and so stupid for a commuter. Took it for a short spin that turned into 50 miles of riding like an rear end in a top hat in 40 degree weather on wet roads covered in salt and sand from the ice/snow Friday. Front end gets light pretty easy, rear end dances all over the place and it seems to want to back in everywhere. My face hurts from laughing and smiling. loving awesome. I think the BikeMaster Daytona bars on my bike are brilliant with the gearing. It makes you hang on, with your hands, upon healthy throttle application, which delivers an unique sort of experience (as opposed to lower bars that you lean upon). the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Feb 5, 2013 |
# ? Feb 5, 2013 00:38 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 03:07 |
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n8r posted:Are you sure your old system can handle pulling that much power? I know with the RD guys run a 30W H4 because the electrical system can't handle pulling any more than that. I'm fairly sure that it can't currently handle 45 watts for a long period of time; the standard headlamp on a CB350 is a 25/35. I'm ordering the upgraded alternator/reg/rec tonight though, and people on honda-twins claim they're able to run full on 55/60 automobile H4s with that setup without draining the battery, so it should be totally fine for the 45/45 I got with the reflector. I'm also building a little voltmeter so that I can monitor charge status more accurately, and if it looks solid at 45 I may try the big one. Course then I'd be a little concerned about the wire gauge, since it's old and dried-out and I'd be pushing over twice the current it was intended for...one step at a time though. Definitely psyched for being able to see more than fifty feet ahead at night. And the old sealed-beam low beam burnt out the other day so the timing is perfect.
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# ? Feb 5, 2013 02:50 |