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Sweet, that's good news. As long as it checks out as described I think I'm going to grab it tomorrow if nobody beats me to it.
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Jan 29, 2013 03:54
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http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/3574273543.html I'm thinking of looking at that wagon. I haven't talked to the guy about it yet but I figured I see if you guys think it's worth getting a PD car. I saw that there can be issues with the cam but I'm not sure if that issue is blown out of proportion or not. It also looks like mods cost a little more.
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Jan 30, 2013 03:40
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I'm actually considering selling my '00 F250 7.3L with 134k miles because, well even as a homeowner, it probably is overkill. Change my mind! (Considering an 04'ish Forester XT as replacement)
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Jan 30, 2013 12:11
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Opensourcepirate posted:I don't think there's any years to avoid. The VE Engines (96-2003) are very reliable, and the PD engines (2004-2006) are similar except for some issues with camshafts wearing out / breaking. This means that the kind of oil used is more important for the newer engines, as using the wrong oil can accelerate cam wear. Any PD cam that was going to break by now should already have broken. The only mechanical things you have to worry about are: - clogged intakes from the EGR (causes power loss) - gummed up vanes in the turbo (causes boost spikes) - coolant migration - automatic transmission is a 100k wear item You really only have to worry about the first two if it's obvious the car's been babied its whole life, and the first problem is annoying, not fatal. Coolant migration is a bitch and can happen to any A4 car. Make sure the coolant is not above the max line in the coolant bottle. Then unplug the sensor to the coolant bottle and check for any moisture inside the plug or inside the receptacle. If you see either of these things run, don't walk. Tyro posted:tl;dr 2001 2-door, manual Golf TDI with 138K miles supposedly owned by a VW tech. EGR delete in software is good. Physically removing the EGR system is better, check to make sure it's gone. Also you want to chip it anyway, there's literally no downside, and you're saving $600 by having it done by someone else. Absolutely buy that car. Source: I used to own a heavily modified 2001 Jetta TDI primitive fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 12:56
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I know as a general rule Americans prefer oil changes but changes every 5k? Isn't that half the interval? That poo poo gets black inside 2 minutes in a PD anyway 
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Jan 30, 2013 13:17
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Atomic Mitten posted:I know as a general rule Americans prefer oil changes but changes every 5k? Isn't that half the interval? That poo poo gets black inside 2 minutes in a PD anyway No no, the oil companies prefer oil changes ever 3-5k
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Jan 30, 2013 15:45
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Atomic Mitten posted:I know as a general rule Americans prefer oil changes but changes every 5k? Isn't that half the interval? That poo poo gets black inside 2 minutes in a PD anyway Depends, if you run dino oil (non-synthetic) every 6k, synthetic you can push a little further. But it'll turn black no matter what, its a diesel. primitive posted:Any PD cam that was going to break by now should already have broken. The only mechanical things you have to worry about are: Not entirely true to be fair, I've seen a couple 2004 PDs that just recently broke their cam, it varies depending on how you push it and what oil you use. crutt posted:I'm actually considering selling my '00 F250 7.3L with 134k miles because, well even as a homeowner, it probably is overkill. Change my mind! (Considering an 04'ish Forester XT as replacement) To be blunt, you are getting nearly the same average MPG as the Forrester (21 EPA MPG) vs the F250 (18-20 MPG) You can carry more, and the diesel will last longer, on the other side of the coin maintenance for the F250 will be more expensive.
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Jan 30, 2013 16:54
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Well the 2001 sold just before I came out to see it. Guy said he had so many people calling about the car he had to turn his phone off. Sigh.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:11
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I've got a quick question on a 2011 Golf TDI - after driving around in a pretty decent amount of snow, the "check catalytic convertor" dash light came on. I stopped in an autozone to get the code pulled and its reporting an issue with the heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 2. I'm currently traveling and am wondering if this needs to get replaced asap or if its something I can wait to get done when I'm back home? For what its worth, performance and milage wise, the car is running as normal. Can this wait a few hundred miles of highway driving or should I be looking for someone to replace it now? I've been having trouble finding where the sensor actually is as well, perhaps it just needs to be cleaned off or some such. Any info is appreciated!
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Feb 1, 2013 21:05
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qutius posted:I've got a quick question on a 2011 Golf TDI - after driving around in a pretty decent amount of snow, the "check catalytic convertor" dash light came on. I stopped in an autozone to get the code pulled and its reporting an issue with the heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 2. I'm currently traveling and am wondering if this needs to get replaced asap or if its something I can wait to get done when I'm back home? I wouldn't worry about it for now, it may even only be because it got wet/cold and may go away on its own. Just get it checked when more convenient.
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Feb 1, 2013 21:23
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Sounds good to me! Thanks yo
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Feb 1, 2013 21:25
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Well I never heard back about that wagon. I'm assuming it sold and they're just one of those assholes that doesn't delete their ads. Anyways, I'm going to look at this 2003 Golf tomorrow. It's got all the mods I wanted done to it and it's lower miles. He said the coilovers on it are racelands that are way too stiff. So, I'll probably be swapping on the stock struts and springs. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/3585786740.html
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Feb 2, 2013 01:10
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I've started running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in my 98 Jetta TDI and it actually takes a few thousand miles to blacken much. I check the level like every other time I fill up the tank and for a while I was having a hard time seeing where the line was.
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Feb 2, 2013 01:59
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Opensourcepirate posted:I've started running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in my 98 Jetta TDI and it actually takes a few thousand miles to blacken much. I check the level like every other time I fill up the tank and for a while I was having a hard time seeing where the line was. Eh, I need to switch to oversize piston rings to fix my excessive blow-by, then maybe my oil won't turn black as night.
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Feb 2, 2013 03:29
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03 TDI Golf. I was driving to work this morning with my car semi-defrosted and i hit the passenger window down button. The window was frozen and nothing happened. I hit the switch again and heard the motor and cable assembly move, but not the window. I figured i blew the cable and the window was now frozen and jammed. Imagine my surprise when i went to lunch and found my passenger window down. Assuming the worst i pulled the car into my bay and took the panel down. I havent worked on VW windows in a long time, so it wasnt untill i got the regulator out that i realised what happened: The regulator had released the window from its clamps, but nothing was damaged. I shoved the window back into the regulator and its all good now, untill the next time i guess. This ever happen to anyone else?
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Feb 2, 2013 04:00
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Raw_Beef posted:03 TDI Golf. Only when the clips that hold the regulator to the glass are weak...
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Feb 2, 2013 04:05
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I was in a real hurry to get it done so i didnt even look closely at the clips. Is it an adjustable bracket or a replaceable clip?
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Feb 2, 2013 04:08
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Has anyone done the underseat drawer installation in the new Golf/Sportwagen? I'm looking to have some extra cabin space.
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Feb 2, 2013 04:22
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CommieGIR posted:Eh, I need to switch to oversize piston rings to fix my excessive blow-by, then maybe my oil won't turn black as night. Try the T6. I've seen people recommend it for a lot of reasons on TDIClub. I used to use the Mobil 1 5W-40 and I think it blackened up a lot more quickly.
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Feb 2, 2013 04:36
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Opensourcepirate posted:Try the T6. I've seen people recommend it for a lot of reasons on TDIClub. I used to use the Mobil 1 5W-40 and I think it blackened up a lot more quickly. Eh, my TDI has issues, it needs a good cylinder job and oversized rings.
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Feb 2, 2013 04:43
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Raw_Beef posted:03 TDI Golf. Yes, I don't know if it was an actual recall or not but VW was replacing the clips with metal ones for free for a while. I had the same thing happen to both my front windows coming back from a ski trip. I was at a toll booth and hit the button and heard the motor activate but the window didn't move. I gave it a nudge and BAM! It went down. Hm. Actually it looks like it was a 7 year warranty extension. http://www.vwproblems.com/problems/window-falls-into-door.shtml
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Feb 2, 2013 16:35
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ThirstyBuck posted:Yes, I don't know if it was an actual recall or not but VW was replacing the clips with metal ones for free for a while. I had the same thing happen to both my front windows coming back from a ski trip. I was at a toll booth and hit the button and heard the motor activate but the window didn't move. I gave it a nudge and BAM! It went down. Thanks bro, I'll get those parts now without having to tear the door open.
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Feb 3, 2013 00:50
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Hey guys, if any of you use TDIClub you may know who oilhammer is. He is extremely knowledgeable, helpful and had a big part in figuring out the B5 chain delete. He's also a friend of mine and a super nice and funny guy. He has been going through a rough time recently which is explained in the thread. Because of this there is a raffle with awesome TDI related prizes (tunes, clutches, etc) that I thought some people here might be interested in. Even if you don't know Brian there is still cool stuff to win. The thread is right here The raffle is in the thread and right here Lets win some stuff and help Brian!
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Feb 4, 2013 21:55
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Raw_Beef posted:03 TDI Golf. This happened to a guy at work while he was still in the car. First the passenger front window and then six months later, in the middle of a snow storm, the driver window just... fell down, without him even touching the buttons. Great design there with those plastic clips.
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Feb 4, 2013 23:35
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Anyone have any thoughts on the audi A3 tdi? I am really reconsidering selling the 2008 forester I have. 23-25mpg is not so great and I'm not sure I should bother with AWD here in Seattle.
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Feb 6, 2013 19:46
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BraveUlysses posted:Anyone have any thoughts on the audi A3 tdi? It's a lot of money for a Golf with a slightly nicer interior.
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Feb 6, 2013 20:02
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What he said. Also, you can't even get awd unless you buy the dsg. Personally I think the Golf looks better than the A3 too. Woa, holy poo poo. The diesel is -only- automatic. What the gently caress Audi. E2: hahaha, not only is the TDI automatic only, its also 2wd only, hahahahaha. There is only 1 reason to buy an Audi instead of a VW and that is AWD. The base model a3 tdi is almost 10k more than a base tdi golf. e3: For some reason it also costs audi 100 dollars more than vw to deliver the car. A 2dr (why would you want a 4door anyway) golf with tech package (sunroof,nav,xenons) is 27600, while the a3 which does not even have an option for a sunroof and I have no clue if it has nav or xenons is 31600. But you get 4 rings, more expensive maintenance and leather seats. Personally leather seats are a negative so I see no reason to bother with the Audi. Also, when did Audi stop offering the A4 in a wagon. I want a TDI a4 wagon with AWD and man trans. But this will never happen. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 6, 2013 20:11
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veedubfreak posted:Also, when did Audi stop offering the A4 in a wagon. I want a TDI a4 wagon with AWD and man trans. But this will never happen. Oh yes it will. In Europe 
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Feb 6, 2013 20:48
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fknlo posted:It's a lot of money for a Golf with a slightly nicer interior. Sorry should have been clearer, I was looking at 2010 models which don't seem too much more than the jetta wagons of the same year.
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Feb 6, 2013 21:09
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I'm pretty sure that all Audis have their bodies galvanized. Given the reliability of the old VE engines, rust has been the death of a lot of the TDI's sold in the North America.
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Feb 7, 2013 23:35
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Opensourcepirate posted:I'm pretty sure that all Audis have their bodies galvanized. Given the reliability of the old VE engines, rust has been the death of a lot of the TDI's sold in the North America. All cars have been fully galvanized for over a decade now.
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Feb 8, 2013 09:35
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Ok, so I gotta do piston rings, the question comes up: The current OEM standard rings are leaking compression, I'm thinking stepping up to a .25mm oversize ring set, but would I need to replace the pistons as well?
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Feb 9, 2013 02:08
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My friend is seriously considering buying a 2.5 TDi A4, and I've agreed to help him do the cambelt when he does. Should I just shoot myself?CommieGIR posted:Ok, so I gotta do piston rings, the question comes up: Isn't an oversize ring set just slightly longer around the circumference, to go with the larger pistons? I'd have thought putting them on a standard piston would simply result in little or no gap, and they'd end up too loose on the piston even if they filled the bore better.
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Feb 9, 2013 16:57
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InitialDave posted:Isn't an oversize ring set just slightly longer around the circumference, to go with the larger pistons? I'd have thought putting them on a standard piston would simply result in little or no gap, and they'd end up too loose on the piston even if they filled the bore better. Yes, this is correct. Back in the day they used to sell "10 over" type rings, which were designed to go on stock pistons. If you didn't flare the skirts you'd have wicked bad piston slap through. It's was never really a great idea so I wouldn't be surprised if you can't find them anymore.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:10
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InitialDave posted:My friend is seriously considering buying a 2.5 TDi A4, and I've agreed to help him do the cambelt when he does. Should I just shoot myself? One of my colleagues used to drive a 2.5 TDI A6. He sold it because of the service bills. Replacement of the cambelts was over $2500, as far as I can remember. There may have been other things included in that as well, but you gotta figure that if it costs that much at a garage, it'll be seven shades of hell trying to do it yourself.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:17
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KozmoNaut posted:Replacement of the cambelts KozmoNaut posted:over $2500, as far as I can remember. There may have been other things included in that as well, but you gotta figure that if it costs that much at a garage, it'll be seven shades of hell trying to do it yourself. No, I'm not joking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ9E4Vua32k
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Feb 9, 2013 22:34
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InitialDave posted:As I understood it, they used one, long, belt. VW seem to have some sort of fetish for this, I know there's a Passat I've seen where the 'service position' is the entire front clip slid forwards a few inches on a couple of rods, and even my Polo had something in the Haynes manual that was easier with the front end gone. I appreciate it makes it much, much easier to get at stuff but it still seems like a ballache. *E* Exhaust manifold! That was it, happily I never had to touch it. VVV That makes so much sense. 
jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Feb 9, 2013 |
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Feb 9, 2013 22:45
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jammyozzy posted:VW seem to have some sort of fetish for this, I know there's a Passat I've seen where the 'service position' is the entire front clip slid forwards a few inches on a couple of rods, and even my Polo had something in the Haynes manual that was easier with the front end gone. They have to pay the price for having cars which for decades only took a few minutes for most people to pull the engines.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:53
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InitialDave posted:As I understood it, they used one, long, belt.  One main timing belt, and a smaller one to drive the injector pump. The main one is the real bastard, though.
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Feb 9, 2013 23:48
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jammyozzy posted:VW seem to have some sort of fetish for this, I know there's a Passat I've seen where the 'service position' is the entire front clip slid forwards a few inches on a couple of rods, and even my Polo had something in the Haynes manual that was easier with the front end gone. Everybody has their stupid maintenance items. Toyota/nissan v8s put the starter under the intake manifold. the FRS/BRZ requires you to drop the engine to replace the spark plugs. A ton of work on the 03-10 ford f-350s is a cab off job.
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