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dwoloz posted:First one. Leaves you plenty of money to buy a better fence Got sold out from under me, not having great luck. How about these?: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/3503742095.html http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/3501800644.html
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Dec 27, 2012 19:23
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Daggerpants posted:Got sold out from under me, not having great luck. How about these?: The first one doesn't have an actual picture but it sounds like a good deal with all the blades and jigs if you want to spend that much and it looks OK in person. Depending on the condition of the saw and blades you might want to haggle down a little. The second one is really overpriced for a rusty 10" craftsman TS. Cpt.Wacky fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 23:00
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Anybody has experience with Proxxon rotary tools? Heard quite a lot of good things about the brand. I'm looking mainly at the IB/E with the MD140S module/stand. Main use case is drilling small holes through PCBs and the occasional holes to mount front panel components through plastic or thin-ish metal. Olivil fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 05:14
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Daggerpants posted:Got sold out from under me, not having great luck. How about these?: The first one, or the Grizzly bandsaw.
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Dec 28, 2012 05:52
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Does anyone have experience will drill press lathe attachments? I want to try turning, and have a great drill press, and don't want to shell out for a lathe. Seems like a great solution, unless there's something I'm missing about how they work or anyone has horror stories. Eh?
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Jan 7, 2013 15:03
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That sounds like something that's going to gently caress up your drill press if you do it much. The bearings aren't designed for side loads and are probably not going to hold your work straight under a lot of that kind of load.
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Jan 7, 2013 17:13
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Lyesh posted:That sounds like something that's going to gently caress up your drill press if you do it much. The bearings aren't designed for side loads and are probably not going to hold your work straight under a lot of that kind of load. You could probably replace the bearings 20 times for less than the cost of a lathe 
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Jan 7, 2013 18:36
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Stavrogin posted:Does anyone have experience will drill press lathe attachments? I want to try turning, and have a great drill press, and don't want to shell out for a lathe. Seems like a great solution, unless there's something I'm missing about how they work or anyone has horror stories. Eh? http://woodgears.ca/lathe/homemade.html The lathe is the cheap part of turning, believe me. Spring pole lathes are very simple to build; no need to even use a pole in this day of bungee cords. Treadle lathes can be built cheap but are not simple. Used lathes are common on Craigslist. A mini-lathe can be had for under $100 used. Turning is playtime, if you think you might like it, you will.
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Jan 7, 2013 18:39
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Stavrogin posted:Does anyone have experience will drill press lathe attachments? I want to try turning, and have a great drill press, and don't want to shell out for a lathe. Seems like a great solution, unless there's something I'm missing about how they work or anyone has horror stories. Eh? I think this exact same question popped up in the Woodworking thread. Here's what's going to happen. 1.Buy drill press lathe attachment. 2.Ruin drill press bearings. 3.Get frustrated. 4.Buy new bearings. 5.Buy Lathe. Don't risk messing up your drill press. These things are like those Alaskan Sawmills, they do a crappy job and end up being hard on the equipment you already have. Try and find someone who has a lathe, or find a woodworking club in your area and give it a shot to see if it is something you want to do and spend money on.
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Jan 8, 2013 15:40
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A much more important consideration than bearing degradation is the fact that the Morse taper on most drill press spindles is NOT designed to take any sort of side load. There is no locking mechanism such as a drawbar to pull the chuck into the taper securely. It is held in the spindle by friction alone and that is fine for the function of drilling holes, as all the force is directed axially along the spindle. You really don't want the chuck to fly out of the spindle at any speed and that'll happen if you put too much side load on the spindle. How much side load depends on the fit of the taper. This does not apply to drill press spindles that use a locking collar. But it's still a bad idea even then due to the aforementioned bearing issues. Also, wood lathes are cheap. I have a harbor freight one in the garage that I ended up adding 500 pounds of concrete to the frame to help with vibration and a 1 1/2 hp motor mounted in a place that wouldn't interfere with turning bowls(wtf why would you mount a motor so that it sticks out farther than the chuck). I rarely use it though and now I can't move it easily because it's heavy as hell.
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Jan 9, 2013 06:07
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I'm ashamed to admit I have a lathe, but rarely use it. Turning is fun, and I turned a rolling pin and replacement spindle for a chair when I first got it (friend of my dad gave it to me, along with a good set of knives) but I just haven't had any projects I need to use a lathe for.
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Jan 9, 2013 14:51
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I'd kill for a decent lathe for metal (preferably capable of turning hardened 4340 and objects up to approx. 8" diameter, but the former is more of a tooling question than a lathe question I guess) but I have very little use for a wood turning lathe.
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Jan 9, 2013 23:47
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Turning 4340 pre-hard is most definitely a lathe question. You need rigidity and lots and lots of cast iron. You can certainly turn an 8" diameter chunk of steel on a South Bend bench lathe but don't expect it to leave a good finish and do expect it to chatter like hell and take forever to make any progress. It is very satisfying to take a .250 off the diameter on a piece of steel on a suitable lathe and if you ever do you will never want to use a hobby grade lathe again. I suggest any old American made machine preferably Lodge and Shipley, Monarch, Leblond, American Tool Works and quite a few more. The heavier older American iron is often cheaper than a smaller import machine because they are much heavier and use 3 phase power. But both of those issues are easily overcome with the cost savings provided you have the space. One day I will own an HLV-H Hardinge. Could be had new for $60k in 2011 website posted:" Though now superseded by more modern methods, in the past a test was used to ensure that all headstocks met the rigorous standards laid down by the factory: a batch of completed units - fitted with expensive class 9 roller races - was arranged on a rig with each carrying a flat aluminium pulley fastened to the end of its spindle. A single flat belt was looped around the pulleys and the whole assembly driven by an electric motor for 30 hours at 3000 r.p.m. Temperature sensors were mounted on the bearings and the readings monitored for consistency. Only when this test was successfully passed would a headstock be mated with its bed and the final "in-situ" grinding of the chuck-mounting and internal collet tapers be complete by a special bed-mounted rig. Experienced, professional users of Hardinge HLV lathes report to the writer that they are capable of running for ten of thousands of hours without any attention being required to the headstock - with one engineer, having over 40-years' daily experience of the model, never needing to replace the bearings." Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jan 10, 2013 |
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Jan 10, 2013 04:11
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My old high school used to have these three beautiful metal lathes from the 1950's in their metal shop. They were the kind you would find in manufacturing firm. They were about 8' long and each one would weigh close to 1/2 a ton. They were in great shape and had lots of geared auto feed features that let you make threads and patterns. I remember making a meat tenderizing hammer and the handle was a tapered length of aluminum. The teacher popped in a new bit for me, we double checked the settings on the auto feeds, and made sure the correct RPMs were selected as well. That finished handle was a perfect taper, and it had a near-mirror finish. You couldn't even feel any ridges with your fingernail, and a few seconds with some polishing paper and it was mirrored. Three years after I graduated there was a short dip in trades jobs available and the school board sold them all off. Five years later the trades picked up again in a big way and they had to buy two new ones, which I was told were not even 1/2 the machines those 1950's monsters were. A guy bought all three of them for pennies on the dollar, and turned around and sold each one for thousands.
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Jan 10, 2013 16:20
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It is a very sad thing that there are more and more of these amazing old machines being melted down to make the next consumer throwaway trinket every day. They typically sell for scrap value, so the scrappers buy 'em up to melt them down. When the old machine tool makers built a machine tool, they were designed and made to last many lifetimes if proper maintenance was done. This is not how machines are made anymore. Everything is made to a price now.
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Jan 10, 2013 18:34
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There are a few school-used old iron ones on ebay in Erie for 3-500 with like 4-5 days left to go right now. A Colchester and a South Bend. If I had a truck that would haul 2500lbs of cast iron home... dammit! And if I had the money, that's money I need to spend on fixing my house right now. Any goons looking for a hell of a lathe in that area should probably grab those before someone else does.
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Jan 11, 2013 06:20
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Do any of you have experience with the milwaukee m12 line in a professional setting? The torque ratings look close enough to 18 volt stuff that I'm thinking of getting them for my electrician apprenticeship.
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Jan 19, 2013 05:19
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They rule, and particularly rule for electrical work. If you look around a bit, it's not hard to find the combo packs of two tools, a charger and two batteries that's often the same price as just a single tool. The non-impact driver is probably the best for electrical for doing switches/outlets/conduit/driving screws/panels/etc. The impact will do a little better in terms of power, but it's not as controllable for finish work. The new fuel brushless versions are impressive, too. I've got the hex impact and the fuel 3/8 impact, my brother has the hex impact, the regular hex driver, drill and the jobsite radio (which rules). He's probably going to pick up the little portaband at some point too, as it's the perfect size for cutting unistrut. Brother is a commercial plumber, I work for a park system building trails/welding/repairing equipment. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jan 19, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 05:47
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I don't own any Milwaukee tools, but from what I understand they're pretty solid and the brand is extremely popular in the electrical trades. It's the brand I see most on job sites (I do acceptance and maintenance testing). I really want the M12 Fuel drill/driver and impact driver when they hit stores next month or so.
Noctone fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Jan 19, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 07:47
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Speaking of Milwaukee, anyone used their random orbit sander? It has some mixed reviews. The people who love it would marry it and have it's babies. But a few have had trouble with the bearings going out prematurely (as in weeks). I'm trying to decide between it and the less expensive Bosch which also gets glowing reviews.
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Jan 19, 2013 08:15
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tim0mit posted:Do any of you have experience with the milwaukee m12 line in a professional setting? The torque ratings look close enough to 18 volt stuff that I'm thinking of getting them for my electrician apprenticeship. Experience with Milwaukee yes? Professional setting - No, but I've got the M12 R/A drill, multi-tool, dremel, inspection camera and radio as well as the M18 hammer drill, impact driver, circular saw, sawzall and vacuum (the vacuum is surprisingly useful, the hackzall is awesome). In particular I've done a bunch of electrial work at home with the M12 tools. The thing milwaukee has right now over everyone else is the variety. Just click this link to see. http://www.milwaukeetool.com/system/m12 For example no major competitor has a dremel and multi-tool in their 12V lines - the multi tool in particular is key for cutting holes for outlets. They commited to li-ion (and left everything else behind) a few years ago and have been building up their tool line ever since. From my reading bosch and dewalt are great for comparable tools but have nothing close to the variety in their 12V or 18V lines. And of course when buying cordless tools you're buying into a system, not just getting a single tool. Also note that they're coming out with M12 fuel (brushless motors) soon. Probably not necessary but pretty neat. Look for the drill, impact driver, multi-tool combo. That would be a great start.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:48
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wormil posted:Speaking of Milwaukee, anyone used their random orbit sander? It has some mixed reviews. The people who love it would marry it and have it's babies. But a few have had trouble with the bearings going out prematurely (as in weeks). I'm trying to decide between it and the less expensive Bosch which also gets glowing reviews. The seal around the dust bag is leaky but that's not an issue for me since I bought a dust extractor. Prior to that I just wrapped the seam with masking tape.
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Jan 25, 2013 01:58
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Hey guys, I'm in the market for a used table saw, my budget being $200, preferably less. Looking around craigslist I see a couple options: Craftsman 10 inch 3hp http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3538913899.html DeWalt http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3566867140.html I'm really digging the Craftsman up there, its cheap, has a stand and wide table, and its down the street. The DeWalt is expensive, but as they say the most expensive tool is the one you buy twice. Anyone have any thoughts on either of these or can identify the models so I can look up some reviews?
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Jan 25, 2013 04:23
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, I'm in the market for a used table saw, my budget being $200, preferably less. Looking around craigslist I see a couple options: Some things to keep in mind, Craftsman list "maximum developed" horsepower which is useless. In reality it's probably closer to 1.75-2 HP. The fence makes the saw. If you want to do carpentry it won't be critical but for any level of precision woodworking you need a stable fence. Both saws are 15 amp, the Craftsman has an induction motor which will be quieter, I believe the Dewalt has a universal motor (like a circular saw). Amp for amp the universal motor has a slight edge with power but I wouldn't worry about that. I've heard people bitch about the miter slot on that particular Craftsman because it has those tabs that prevent the bar from raising up and also about the saw insert.
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Jan 25, 2013 08:53
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I'd pass on both. The craftsman you linked is not a very good one, and the Dewalt posted is also really cheap. We have that exact Dewalt in my shop room at school and the whole thing is shaky/flimsy. Wait for a cast iron table saw from the 1970's or earlier that will inevitably show up for the same price as these two. Those are solid, and you can get parts like link belts and fences that will make them nearly as good as brand new Deltas.
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Jan 25, 2013 17:04
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Thanks for the advice, I was about to jump on that Craftsman, phew!
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Jan 26, 2013 02:32
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I don't know how everyone else feels, but to me, the table saw is the single most important piece of woodworking equipment you will own. You can get by with some pretty crappy tools, but nothing will hinder you more than a table saw that sucks. My standard for a good table saw is that it should take two people to lift. If you can lift it yourself, then it's no good. That weight is crucial for the table to be a solid work surface that won't vibrate and shake all over the place, marring your wood and wasting your time. If the table has a nice solid (cast iron) table top, then you can slowly upgrade everything else to make it second-to-none. Old Craftsmen tables from the 1950-70s are great because they are heavy, well made, and there is an entire industry of aftermarket parts that fit them. I know it's hard to wait, but keep posting your craigslist finds and eventually someone here will give you the, "Holy crap, that's an amazing deal, jump on that!"
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Jan 27, 2013 01:15
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Thanks for the advice. I just found a Grizzly cabinet saw for $450, if it was a bit cheaper I'd jump on this thing  http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3573430011.html
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Jan 27, 2013 01:23
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Back when my woodworking was very furniture-centric I would have completely agreed about the tablesaw but these days I'm making more small projects and musical instruments and a band saw would be far more valuable. I do agree though that if you're going to own a tablesaw it should be a good one because I can't imagine anything more aggravating in woodworking than a mediocre or terrible saw. Every project I've ever worked on had to be sawn at some point. Also, I'm already thinking of getting a larger lathe but I would like to stay vintage. How are the old Craftsman lathes? What other old brands are worth looking at?
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Jan 27, 2013 07:09
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Found a couple more table saws in the area: Rigid table saw with extensions, but the surface is rusted to hell. How hard would it be to clean all that off, and would it be worth it? I could probably haggle the price down to <$200 http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3587049209.html Heres an oooold Crafstman for cheap, but also rusted out. Not sure how I feel about this one: http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3558586160.html
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Feb 2, 2013 23:12
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Super Waffle posted:Found a couple more table saws in the area: I don't know much about Rigid saws other than some or all of them had alignment problems but their fans are rabid about defending them. The Craftsman probably isn't worth it unless you're willing to put a lot of time into fixing it up. Offer him a $100 for both.
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Feb 3, 2013 02:28
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I'd try and get the guy to knock a few bucks off the Rigid before thinking of it. My cousin has a rigid table saw and it's pretty good. That one looks to have a nice cast iron top, so you can go from there. The craftsman caught my eye, but it will probably take a bit of elbow grease before you get it to where you want. Check out articles like this one to see what you can do to get them working great.
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Feb 3, 2013 04:27
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$5900 and the guy can't even throw in free shipping? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170983973908&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
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Feb 3, 2013 07:30
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wormil posted:$5900 and the guy can't even throw in free shipping? Are those super rare or did someone misplace a decimal point?
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Feb 3, 2013 08:05
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ExplodingSims posted:Are those super rare or did someone misplace a decimal point? Couple of decimal points. They barely rate as uncommon and this one is missing a piece.
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Feb 3, 2013 09:23
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wormil posted:$5900 and the guy can't even throw in free shipping? No, but if you pay another $10 you can get the original ad for it too: http://www.vintagepaperads.com/1922-Goodell-Pratt-Bench-Vise-Ad--All-In-The-Grip_p_42454.html
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Feb 3, 2013 17:50
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I'm going to give the guy the benefit of the doubt and say he typed in "5-9-0-0" thinking that the decimal was already in there like some ATMs are set up, so you'd have to type "1-0-0" to get $1.00
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Feb 3, 2013 18:59
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Super Waffle posted:Found a couple more table saws in the area: I have a ridgid TS3650 that I like, and also came pretty rusty. It took an orbital sander, a pack of scotch bright pads, barkeeper's friend, and a couple hours to clean it off. I only paid $90 for my saw though.
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Feb 4, 2013 02:30
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Should I buy this immediately? http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3577420254.html 12" Craftsman bandsaw, Craftsman table saw, and what looks like a jointer/planer for $250
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Feb 4, 2013 03:38
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Super Waffle posted:Should I buy this immediately? I wouldn't. The TS has those horrible stamped tables, probably direct drive too. The jointer is on a really weird awkward stand with a joke of a fence. I'm guessing 1/2HP motors on the jointer and BS, not sure how bad that is on a jointer but that's pretty wimpy for a BS. The BS looks similar to one my dad had, workable but not great.
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Feb 4, 2013 12:57
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