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High Protein posted:I assume that if I go and change stuff like engine casing bolts I'll have to do the gaskets as well? no, just do them one at a time
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Feb 4, 2013 20:20
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echomadman posted:no, just do them one at a time Ah ok, I figured even that would tweak the gaskets.
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Feb 4, 2013 20:25
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My 636 has a K&N filter. If I replaced it with a stock filter, would that provide benefits - like added torque? There are no other mods to the intake-exhaust system otherwise.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:33
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the walkin dude posted:My 636 has a K&N filter. If I replaced it with a stock filter, would that provide benefits - like added torque? There are no other mods to the intake-exhaust system otherwise. The bike would probably run a bit better with the correct intake pressure.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:37
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According to K&N, their filter will improve horsepower and throttle response. It probably does, by an imperceptible amount. I'm sure the EFI can handle the pressure increase in the intake tract, it's probably less of an effect than ram air at 60mph.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:38
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So the stock filter would be better for the bike? I know K&Ns are at their best use when coupled with Power Commanders and full exhausts, but I'm not sure if a K&N working by itself would actually bring any benefit. Other than noise.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:40
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It's definitely not going to make much of a difference either way. I'd just keep the K&N.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:41
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Without airflow improvement on the exhaust side, the difference between air filters will be pretty negligible. I'd keep the K&N, mostly because I hate paying out the nose for an OEM paper element.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:43
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the walkin dude posted:My 636 has a K&N filter. If I replaced it with a stock filter, would that provide benefits - like added torque? There are no other mods to the intake-exhaust system otherwise. If your ECU hasn't been tuned you might be running too lean, can lead to hesitation and engine overheating. When I put a K&N on a (carbed) bike and didn't modify the fueling it lead to backfires on decel which is a tell-tale sign of running lean. Edit: this assumes a TPS based ECU, not one that uses intake pressure/flow during open loop operation.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:43
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n8r posted:It's definitely not going to make much of a difference either way. I'd just keep the K&N. This. Also k&ns are lifetime and just need some oil and a cleaning now and again. I put them on everything and would be amazed to learn they impacted an EFI bike enough to have it run poorly. Maybe less than perfect to a degree only measurable by a dyno run.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:52
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Probably more of an issue on carbs which are a bit less adjustable, but the corollary to "higher flowing" is always "less filtration", so I tend to stick to OEM filters. If you're not chasing 10ths, why bother with the potential wear to internals from crap getting into the engine? If you don't plan on holding on to your bike for more than another 20k. Given the choice between better airflow and better filtration, it makes sense to pick better filtration. A quick google looking for independent verifications will show that K&Ns generally do nothing for power unless paired with a higher flowing exhaust and some sort of tuning.
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Feb 5, 2013 01:13
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Zool posted:They only limit back-torque from the wheel, they would be very not awesome if they worked in both directions. It's as though, at a certain back torque (determined by the clutch springs), the bike automatically feathers the clutch for you. The clutch springs neither know nor care how much back torque is passing through the clutch. Slippers work either on a dog clutch between the normal clutch and the final drive (back torque causes the dog clutch to disengage, with a spring assembly built in to prevent it from disengaging at lower levels of back-torque) or from an auxiliary clutch master cylinder actuated by positive pressure in the airbox - a closed throttle allows the clutch to slip a little, and the natural dynamics of a clutch do the rest. The former system is complex and tricky to maintain and adjust, and can wear pretty quickly because the dog clutch engages and disengages with each power stroke of the engine (which is why you still get some engine braking even when the slipper engages). The latter is cheaper and easy to fit as an add-on but obviously vastly increases clutch wear and can still allow the back to lock up in extreme conditions. The reason you don't get them on many road bikes is because they're complicated and expensive and break easily, which isn't a great thing on a safety-critical item like a clutch.
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Feb 5, 2013 01:28
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They're on nearly every engine designed in the last 5 years?  Also, the ramp type slipper doesn't disengage the clutch unless backtorque reaches a certain level. They're not always sold as "slipper clutches", you'll see all kinds of names for them like "back torque limiting", or other some such crap, but they're on nearly all modern engines because it's way better to have the clutch slip a bit then have the back end hop or lock up. Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 01:37
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Ramp style slipper clutches are adjusted by changing the spring rate or preload on the clutch springs, or a separate spring depending on the design. It would probably be better to change the ramp angle, but that's not very easy to do.
Zool fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 01:58
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This might be a question better suited to the travel forum, or Lonely Planet, but can anyone tell me how feasible it would be for a foreigner on a tourist visa to a) purchase a motorcycle in the US b) sell it in a different state? It's only a vague idea at the moment, but I'm considering moving to the UK (from Australia) later this year and would love to fly into LA, buy a bike, ride across the country and sell it in New York before flying to London. I'd probably spend something like two months doing it so it would be cheaper than renting. But I hear the US can be pretty strict with regards to insurance, license registration etc.
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Feb 5, 2013 02:34
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I can't help you on the feasibility of it, but if you can figure it out you absolutely should make it happen. That would be an awesome trip, especially if you can work in riding up the west coast on the PCH.
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Feb 5, 2013 02:54
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Z3n posted:They're on nearly every engine designed in the last 5 years? I had a Suzuki Intruder (VS-700) that had some kind of slipper clutch in it. I liked that it prevented wheelspin on massive downshift engine braking. I hated that it prevented bump-starting the bike. Imagine trying to bump-start a bike with the clutch half engaged. It was miserable. That bike had VERY dodgy electrics, too, leading to a battery dead enough not to be able to crank. If it had had a solid clutch engagement, I know I wouldn't have had to beg so many jumps.
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Feb 5, 2013 03:03
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freebooter posted:This might be a question better suited to the travel forum, or Lonely Planet, but can anyone tell me how feasible it would be for a foreigner on a tourist visa to I wouldn't be much help on the licensing front, but would be willing to source and get a bike ready for you. 
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Feb 5, 2013 03:08
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If you can get a driver's license you can probably buy/reg/sell a bike. You might need a "home address" in the US though. You might ask whoever you're getting your visa from about the driver's licenses and poo poo, or call the California DMV.
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Feb 5, 2013 03:11
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Dang. This is from 2008 but I imagine it hasn't changed much: http://community.usatourist.com/forums/t/556.aspx quote:I keep getting e-mails from foreign visitors, mostly young people, who want to purchase a car in the USA, use it to tour the country, then sell it before returning home. I do not recommend this plan. There are several problems and a nearly insurmountable barrier to driving a car in the USA. The permanent address thing seems like a dealbreaker but is also a bit vague - I mean, what if I were to move into a backpacker sharehouse for a couple of days and call that my "permanent address"? What defines an address as permanent? When I moved from Western Australia to Victoria I had to change my address with my bank before I could get a Victorian license - I wonder if I could do that in a foreign country. Although then I suppose I'd have to repeat the process in New York. Alternately, maybe I could just do a loop of the west and return to California to sell. quote:I wouldn't be much help on the licensing front, but would be willing to source and get a bike ready for you. That is hugely generous of you! Although as stated above, it would appear to then be registered in your name, and I wouldn't want to put that on you for an internet stranger. I will ask, though - since this is something you guys should definitely be able to answer - how much would a second-hand bike set me back in California? Say, less than 15 years old (wouldn't want to deal with mechnical issues on a trip like this), probably an endurance dual sport?
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Feb 5, 2013 04:04
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freebooter posted:Dang. This is from 2008 but I imagine it hasn't changed much: If you're serious about doing this, I can make some phone calls and potentially figure out some options for you. I don't think that information is entirely accurate - California definitely has a reciprocation agreement for international drivers licenses, and you should be able to register the bike to yourself locally as long as you have an address to receive mail at. That would make you the owner of the bike with a CA address, and I'm 99% sure state farm would issue you a 2 month policy for insurance. I find it highly unlikely that CA will give a gently caress about anything as long as you pay them the money and have the appropriate boxes to fill out. You could also get just a US motorcycle license by taking the 20 question test and then doing the lollipop if they need a DL number to issue the title to. Then when you got to NY, you'd simply sell the bike. Plates in CA go with the bike, so no problems there either, worst case you would ship them back to the CA DMV.
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Feb 5, 2013 04:40
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Z3n posted:Probably more of an issue on carbs which are a bit less adjustable, but the corollary to "higher flowing" is always "less filtration", so I tend to stick to OEM filters. If you're not chasing 10ths, why bother with the potential wear to internals from crap getting into the engine? If you don't plan on holding on to your bike for more than another 20k. Given the choice between better airflow and better filtration, it makes sense to pick better filtration.
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Feb 5, 2013 05:48
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How easy is it to remove the fairings from a gs500f? I'm good with my hands but I've never worked on vehicles of any kind before. What tools would I need? Is it complicated to attach a round headlight (like the ones on the gs500e) if you take off the entire front fairing?
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Feb 5, 2013 06:54
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M42 posted:How easy is it to remove the fairings from a gs500f? I'm good with my hands but I've never worked on vehicles of any kind before. What tools would I need? Is it complicated to attach a round headlight (like the ones on the gs500e) if you take off the entire front fairing? If it's like any of the other Suzukis, it's gonna be a mix of 6mm hex head screws, phillips screws, and 10mm bolts. I'd suggest a metric allen key set, a 1/4" drive ratchet with metric sizes up to 14mm, and a good phillips screwdriver. If you can get a stubby phillips or a phillips tip for the ratchet, you're in better shape. Make sure you tug and pull to find all the fasteners before you try to remove a fairing piece. Sometimes they're not bolted together in the obvious ways, and one piece MUST come off before another piece. I've got a GSF-1200 (bandit) and it wasn't very hard to take everything off; maybe an hour the first time I had to do it, being careful. About the same to put it back on, since I didn't really remember how it came apart, but it only goes together one way, so it's at least obvious.
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Feb 5, 2013 07:18
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It's not difficult with the right tools and time, obviously there are naked versions and you could probably trade set ups with someone on a gs500 forum. Or you could just keep the fairings. Of course none of this matters cause you aren't buying whatever gs500 you're asking about. I don't think you'll ever get one, you've just been asking about it for a couple of years. I'd bet on it but I can't think of anything I can bet or do that would be appealing to CA readers. Don't get me wrong. I like having you around and you ask good questions, but your worrying about way too much stuff when you should just worry about getting on 2 wheels first.
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Feb 5, 2013 07:21
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I only settled on a gs like, 8 months ago or so. Seriously, dude. I ask questions like that cause I see one on CL that's got some issue (in this case I saw one that had a messed up fairing) but is pretty cheap, cause I'm broke.
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Feb 5, 2013 07:29
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So bet me something then. It doesn't have to be a GS, any motorcycle by the end of 2013 is fine by me. Toxx's are dumb, we could think of something more fun than that. edit: Maybe like, if you get a bike I'll take any icon and title for a year, if you don't then you can post in CA but every post has to start with "As a potential motorcycle rider, " nsaP fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 07:32
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To jump back to the screw discussion, I just had good results with a Grabit extractor. Didn't see the reverse thread suggestion until after I bought it, but for $6 it's no big deal since it worked.
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Feb 5, 2013 07:49
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I have had decent luck with a set of cheapy Mastercraft double-ended screw extractors. Hex chuck, so they fit in your drill; one end is the left-handed helical extractor, and the other end is an appropriately-sized center drill with some facing flutes. So first you use the drill end to clean out the stripped head and set up a proper-sized starter hole, then swap to the extractor, which fits the taper perfectly and bites instantly. I also used a tap wrench on the extractor side for very slow, steady torque. I did have one bolt that was so incredibly lovely that it just sheared off even lower down the shaft, but the other three or four I've tried them on popped right out. No snapped extractors. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...t.jsp?locale=en
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Feb 5, 2013 07:58
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Z3n posted:They're on nearly every engine designed in the last 5 years? They're really not that common. Just taking Kawasaki's model line (for no other reason than I happened to be on their site earlier) - the ZX-6R, ZX-10R, and ZZR1400 have slipper clutches of some description. None of the rest of the models do - including, notably, models that share engines with those bikes like the Z1000 and the 1400, and bikes that would really benefit from it like the Versys, don't have it. The ramp-type slipper doesn't disengage the main clutch at all, it disengages a separate dog clutch. It's the pneumatic style that slip the main clutch slightly whenever the throttle is closed. Because a slipping clutch slips more the more speed differential there is between sides, this gives roughly the same effect as the ramp-type with less parts and complexity at the expense of increased clutch wear.
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Feb 5, 2013 08:57
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Phone posted:Is there anything special needed when trying to find a tow company to tow a motorcycle? When I'm in difficult conditions (uphill turning in snow, this time) am I right to be staying in one gear lower than I'd normally take it? Also my legs probably shouldn't be shooting down to the road to stabilise me so much, but gently caress it, I was going from stationary -> crawl -> stationary with how much grip my tires lost. Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 09:10
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I've learned and practiced that a higher gear is what you want. It gives smoother power delivery due to the decreased torque available. This is also what the MSF course says to do.
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Feb 5, 2013 10:06
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goddamnedtwisto posted:The ramp-type slipper doesn't disengage the main clutch at all Yes they do. I mean there may have been a design like that way back when but the current generation are super simple and reliable. They aren't really much more complex in terms of parts, the pressure plate just has ramps on it which at high back torque work against corresponding ramps on the basket allowing it to cam out slightly, taking pressure off the plates. There's no reason it can't be just as reliable as a standard clutch and it's simply a better design.  This design is pretty typical, my KTM has something very similar, but not all trick red anodised billet.  Ramps on the pressure plate. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 10:13
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Z3n posted:If you're serious about doing this, I can make some phone calls and potentially figure out some options for you. I don't think that information is entirely accurate - California definitely has a reciprocation agreement for international drivers licenses, and you should be able to register the bike to yourself locally as long as you have an address to receive mail at. That would make you the owner of the bike with a CA address, and I'm 99% sure state farm would issue you a 2 month policy for insurance. I find it highly unlikely that CA will give a gently caress about anything as long as you pay them the money and have the appropriate boxes to fill out. You could also get just a US motorcycle license by taking the 20 question test and then doing the lollipop if they need a DL number to issue the title to. Then when you got to NY, you'd simply sell the bike. Plates in CA go with the bike, so no problems there either, worst case you would ship them back to the CA DMV. It's definitely something I want to do if I move to London, it's just moving to London that's not certain yet. I would probably want to do it by the end of the year though, and that means I'd have to be flying out of NYC in October at the latest (that's when it gets too cold in America to enjoyably ride, right?) I'll do a bit more research myself, even if it's a vague thing I like to know if a pipe dream is actually feasible or not. (I could always, alternately, ship my Triumph there, ride that and ship it to Britain, but that would probably be prohibitively expensive.)
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Feb 5, 2013 12:56
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Z3n posted:Probably more of an issue on carbs which are a bit less adjustable, but the corollary to "higher flowing" is always "less filtration", so I tend to stick to OEM filters. If you're not chasing 10ths, why bother with the potential wear to internals from crap getting into the engine? If you don't plan on holding on to your bike for more than another 20k. Given the choice between better airflow and better filtration, it makes sense to pick better filtration. Meh, anecdotal evidence I know, but my 82 honda got a K&N with it's first filter change and is just about to kick over 60k miles with no appreciable wear. Plenty of those miles were unkept dirt roads. obso fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 18:15
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ReelBigLizard posted:Yes they do. I mean there may have been a design like that way back when but the current generation are super simple and reliable. They aren't really much more complex in terms of parts, the pressure plate just has ramps on it which at high back torque work against corresponding ramps on the basket allowing it to cam out slightly, taking pressure off the plates. There's no reason it can't be just as reliable as a standard clutch and it's simply a better design. Well there you go, I've learned something today. Surely that design means that once the slipper kicks in you lose all engine braking though?
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Feb 5, 2013 18:18
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Surely that design means that once the slipper kicks in you lose all engine braking though? Not all of it, but that is the point.
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Feb 5, 2013 18:20
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goddamnedtwisto posted:They're really not that common. Just taking Kawasaki's model line (for no other reason than I happened to be on their site earlier) - the ZX-6R, ZX-10R, and ZZR1400 have slipper clutches of some description. None of the rest of the models do - including, notably, models that share engines with those bikes like the Z1000 and the 1400, and bikes that would really benefit from it like the Versys, don't have it. The Connie 14 does as a slipper, as does the old Connie 11, although the Connie 11 one is different. The Versys uses the Ninja 650 engine, which was first made in 2006. The Ninja 1k engine doesn't use it, but it's also it's own 1054 engine, not based on anything else. Slippers do tend to show up only on more aggressive bikes/higher engine braking bikes, but there are plenty of other bikes that have them as well (Multistrada 620 has them too). The ramp type ones are adjustable through a few different means, and you don't lose all engine braking when they start slipping, you just lose enough that it doesn't lock up. It's the same thing as riding the clutch slightly, they just slip a bit. obso posted:Meh, anecdotal evidence I know, but my 82 honda got a K&N with it's first filter change and is just about to kick over 60k miles with no appreciable wear. Plenty of those miles were unkept dirt roads. Those old Hondas are also insanely reliable and WAY overbuilt. But I bet if you tore it down you'd find more wear on it than you would with something that had better flitration. Look up the K&N filtration tests, they filter far worse than the rest of the options. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 18:25
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KTM's own badly translated despcription of the APTC slipper clutch.quote:This anti-hopping clutch is a must for any ambitious rider.
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Feb 5, 2013 19:11
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Well there you go, I've learned something today. Surely that design means that once the slipper kicks in you lose all engine braking though? Mine only starts to slip near maximum engine braking, and it only slips just enough so the rear wheel doesn't lock up - the amount of engine braking is still massive. Maybe the easiest way to think of it like ABS for your clutch.
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Feb 5, 2013 19:14
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