|
Dyna beads are a stupid idea in MC tires. No independent testing, only "well it sure does feel gooder when I put them in!" Depending on the design of your tps it could also damage it.
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 19:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:34 |
|
|
I have a stupid question, is it possible to flat spot a bit of tire in an off? I've noticed since I low-sided a couple of months back that when I lean over to the right the front end will occasionally want to skitter away from me. I'm running a Dunlop Qualifier 120/60 zr (came with the bike) if that makes a difference. I'm not sure on the year but the tread pattern looks nothing like the one's I've googled.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2013 16:57
|
|
|
What are your tire pressures and have you checked that the forks dont need to be loosened up to pop back straight from your crash?
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2013 17:32
|
|
|
Z3n posted:What are your tire pressures and have you checked that the forks dont need to be loosened up to pop back straight from your crash? Tire pressures are what the owners manual recommends (33/36 I think - I'm spacing at the moment but I checked them a couple of days ago). I've not checked the forks, how would I go about that? Visually they look okay, I've noticed bars now tweak my fingers at full lock when turning right. I'd assumed this was probably them just being a little bent. Though again they look fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2013 17:53
|
|
|
I'd reset the forks after an of as a matter of course, even if they don't look twisted. Managed to tweak mine to a noticeable degree at less than 20mph. All you need to do is loosen off all the bolts that clamp the fork legs (and at this point I give them a bit of a shake) then tighten them up to the specified torque again. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Feb 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2013 18:02
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:I'd reset the forks after an of as a matter of course, even if they don't look twisted. Managed to tweak mine to a noticeable degree at less than 20mph. It's worth noting that you need to support the front end while you do this or you'll have a bad time. I usually loosen both set of upper pinch bolts, give the clipons a twist or two, tighten them back down, then do the same with the lower set. This probably doesn't work very well compared to supporting the front and loosening both sets at once.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2013 11:41
|
|
|
Guys (gals?), I could really use some advice. Doing the rear tire on my C14, 190/50ZR17. It was a bitch, but I got the bead broken all around. The problem now: I cannot, for the life of me, get the first bit of the bead lifted over the rim. I hook under it with a tire tool (or prybar for that matter, I've tried), I cannot lever it over the edge. I actually start to significantly bend the tool and I am actually scared of bending the rim lip or snapping the tool. I am using rim protectors, thankfully. Am I missing something super obvious here? I know I am getting a hook on the bead, but the whole lifting up past the normal bead rest zone on the rim is proving pretty much impossible. Ideas?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 03:42
|
|
|
You need to squeeze the tire on the other side, and force both sides of the bead into the drop center to get the extra slack in the tire needed to lever it over the edge.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 03:46
|
|
|
If I squeeze it by hand I presume? I'll try. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 05:45
|
|
|
slidebite posted:If I squeeze it by hand I presume? I'll try. Thanks You can squeeze it by hand, but I keep a few wood clamps on hand to force it into the drop center. Only downside is you have to be careful because the clamps also take up some slack so only use them as an extra hand, don't leave them on there the entire time. Basically, if you squeeze both side of the bead into the drop center, you can shift the entire tire over about 1.5 inches and that gives you enough extra tire slack to lever the tire over the lip of the rim. Once you get the first bit over the edge of the rim, it holds itself in the drop center, and you can usually pull the clamp off then. If you're forcing the poo poo out of it, you're doing it wrong. Also, it REALLY helps to warm up the tires. Put them in front of the heater or fire, or leave them in the sun depending on how warm a day it is.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 07:34
|
|
|
Yeah, that's why some tires with stiff sidewalls can be such a pain in the rear end. I usually had to call for help whenever I had to change a BT021/023 or Roadsmart/II because even using my entire body weight (all 140-150 lbs of it) was not enough to keep it in the drop center most of the time. Clamps sound like a fantastic idea.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 10:17
|
|
|
I stopped last night after this post (well, more precisely after I started watching that 70+ min vid of cycle mayhem and having some beverages) but I like that clamp idea. I think I can make that work, and as you describe it, it makes sense. That tire is a pretty wide boot, so of course my virgin tire change is probably on one of the harder tires to do. Go me! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 15:03
|
|
|
Oh no, narrow tires are harder. I'm never doing a dirt bike front tire again.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 15:10
|
|
|
Wha? I have basically no sidewall and what I do have is super rigid. I image a narrow but tall dirtbike tire should be tons easier, no?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 18:02
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Wha? I have basically no sidewall and what I do have is super rigid. I image a narrow but tall dirtbike tire should be tons easier, no? Yeah but you have a giant rim to move the tire around on, and you're more worried about flex in the carcass than the sidewall directly. A dirtbike tire doesn't really flex at all, has very little clearance, and you're usually shoving a tube in there as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 18:35
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Yeah but you have a giant rim to move the tire around on, and you're more worried about flex in the carcass than the sidewall directly. A dirtbike tire doesn't really flex at all, has very little clearance, and you're usually shoving a tube in there as well. A thought popped in to my head: does a dirtbike tyre also has a bead that needs to be set?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 20:55
|
|
|
KARMA! posted:A thought popped in to my head: does a dirtbike tyre also has a bead that needs to be set? Yes, in fact, the bead is often stronger because dirt bike tires run really low pressures and are still sometimes expected to work when flat. With the tube though, it's really easy to seat (unless you pinch flat the drat thing!)
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 20:58
|
|
|
OK, I am getting ticked off and hope someone can look at this and go "Oh, you big dummy, this is what you're doing wrong" Firstly, tools I am using:  I am squeezing the sidewall, get it to drop center, but I cannot, for the life of me, "shift" the tire over a smidgen towards the side. THe only way I see it even possible would to literally use 7 or 8 clamps, get the whole thing under tension to go center and try.. but I don't have half a dozen clamps. As soon as I take the clamp tension off, the tire goes back more or less to the beadline on both sides. I actually broke the tip off tool #4 just a second ago trying to pry it up and over.  Like, a moment or two after this photo was taken, the whole thing was back to the inside of the bead line. I am about >< close to saying gently caress it and take it somewhere, but I really don't like giving up, especially since I broke the bead all around... which I thought, foolishly, that would be the hard part. But really, I think I'm going to need to clamp it all the way around to move it over a bit. I have 2 quick clamps. e: It just dawned on me. I know realize the zip tie method. Get it really compressed to the center. Zip tie. Move over. Repeat. Instead of 8 clamps I've got zip ties. I don't have strong enough ones at home, but gently caress it, I'll buy some tomorrow. slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Feb 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 02:27
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Yeah but you have a giant rim to move the tire around on, and you're more worried about flex in the carcass than the sidewall directly. A dirtbike tire doesn't really flex at all, has very little clearance, and you're usually shoving a tube in there as well. And you've got the rim lock to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 03:07
|
|
|
I'm going to be picking up some new tyres on Friday hopefully, either pilot road or pilot road 2's. Is the price hike for the two worth it? The vast majority of my riding is twisty country lanes, yay for living in the country side!
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 21:24
|
|
|
Yes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 01:37
|
|
|
When I was shopping, it came down to PR2s or PR3s. Consensus was that the 3s were a decent jump over the 2s as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 02:19
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Yes. Hah. Succinct! slidebite posted:When I was shopping, it came down to PR2s or PR3s. Consensus was that the 3s were a decent jump over the 2s as well. I did look at the three's as well, however they're another price hike over the two's and I'm trying to save some cash for when the new baby arrives! 
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 10:32
|
|
|
I can only speak for the 2s - they heat up fast, stick well wet or dry, and last forever. I have 9000 mi mostly highways on mine and they've only begun to get a little half-inch flat spot in the middle; I expect another season from them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 18:58
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:I can only speak for the 2s - they heat up fast, stick well wet or dry, and last forever. I have 9000 mi mostly highways on mine and they've only begun to get a little half-inch flat spot in the middle; I expect another season from them. I had a friend that's been riding for years round at the weekend to help me sort out my rear brake and after looking at them was astounded I'd only come off once over the winter! He reckons that they're probably the stock tyres from 2004, oops!
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 19:41
|
|
|
Sorry to double post but the place I've booked to do my tyres tomorrow are doing free fitting on PR3's which means I can actually have a set of them cheaper than the PR2's! With the caveat that they can get a front in for me! So any one around the Leeds UK area needing tyres should check out these guys; http://www.biketyresleeds.com/
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 11:13
|
|
|
I've got a pair of PR3s on my VFR, about 6000 miles on them, they barely look half worn if that and I go at a spirited pace, and the bike feels super planted with them, not sure about their outright grip, but i've never had any issues with them losing grip when ridden aggresively. I have PR2s as well they were great, maybe didn't have the same planted feel that i'm getting from the 3s.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 12:23
|
|
|
New PR3 rear for me tomorrow (finally). Tad under 9000miles and they've hit the wear markers, that's including 3.5k of Eurotouring with a majority of city start stop, accelerate like a knob for 50m riding. Had total confidence with them in all conditions until about 200miles ago, now they just feel the tiniest bit untrustworthy. What price are you lot getting on these fitted? Essential Rubber in London is doing it for £140 fitted (10% discount for mentioning londonbikers forum).
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 13:45
|
|
|
I'm either getting a set of PR3's for £220 or PR2's for £225 fitted too. They've got an offer on for free fitting on the PR3's and PP3's which is why their cheaper than the 2's.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 15:44
|
|
|
I got my PR3's last week and just wanted to say thanks to everyone that recommended them. The difference between the grip they provide compared to my old tyres is like night and day and completely confidence inspiring in the corners. I seem to be riding a whole hell of a lot smoother and more consistently on them, I'm thinking this is because I'm not constantly worrying about them breaking away underneath me. Add me to the bandwagon recommending them
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 14:30
|
|
|
HammerOfHope posted:Does anyone have any experience with Continental Conti Motion ST tires? They're easily the least expensive tires I've seen so far in Canada and seem to be getting good reviews. This is my first tire swap after a couple years of riding (SV650S) so I don't want to lay down almost twice as much for the Pilot Road 2s if the Conti Motions are just as good. Searching around this thread I found this post that matches my exact question but was never answered. My bike is also an SV650, but my friend has a 650R. I have 2 summers under my belt, he has none. I push my bike a little more than he does but nothing ridiculous. I don't mind spending on tires and I was thinking about the PR2/PR3s this thread generally recommends, but does this logic also apply to a new rider? Are those Continentals fine for a first set, or is it the opposite; he should buy better tires since he's new? internet inc fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Apr 2, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2013 19:42
|
|
|
Those Contis will probably be fine for your SV. I don't know if riding experience is much of a factor on those vs. PR2/PR3. For me, the reason I pick the Pilot Roads is the life expectancy. My friend has a set of PR2s on his Ulysses that have lasted 15,000 miles. My wife had 10k on hers before she picked up a drill bit in one and just replaced both at once (with PR2s). I'm at 10k on mine and they look like they have another year left.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2013 22:46
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Those Contis will probably be fine for your SV. I don't know if riding experience is much of a factor on those vs. PR2/PR3. Yeah pretty much this...you'll probably save more in the long run with the PRs but the Contis are fine from a safety standpoint.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2013 00:49
|
|
|
I like pilot powers/roads because of the profile. It just fits my riding style, and I feel the most comfortable on them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2013 01:25
|
|
|
Out of curiosity, does the tire tread pattern change the pressure you should be running in them? The manual for my CL recommends 25-28psi in the front and 28-31 in the back. This is with your standard 1970s style street tire, pretty smooth with a lot of circumferential grooves. I've got 80/20 dual sport tires installed, which look like this  and have been running 27/30. Everything feels fine -- the actual profile of the tire is still quite round and smooth -- but does the different size and shape of contact patch mean that you're theoretically supposed to run higher or lower than stock? Or is that entirely a function of the bike's weight and balance and your riding style?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 04:10
|
|
|
It's nearly entirely a function of weight and tire construction (and personal feedback preference) as to what you're going to run in them. That seems a bit high for that kind of bike if you're going to be doing any offroading on them but is probably just fine for street.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 04:52
|
|
|
Someone on another forum was flipping out about weird lines he was seeing in his Michelin Pilot Road 3s: This doesn't look like a big deal to me but this was after about 4000 miles and there's an urban legend about PR3s coming apart, this guy thought he was seeing the first stages. Turns out: quote:Pilot Power/Pilot Road Technical Information- Anti Static Strip. When a motorcycle is in use there is a build up of static within the machine. It is necessary to ensure that this is disbursed during usage. In order to facilitate this there is a carbon black strip built into the tyre during manufacture. This strip is moulded into the tyre before curing using carbon, as this is a good conductor of electricity. This strip is practically invisible on a new tyre, but can appear as the tyre wears, especially if the use of the motorcycle is not high. There is no detrimental effect on the performance of the tyre either before, during or after the strip has become apparent The positioning of this groove is slightly off centre and can be seen in the diagram below." Hopefully this keeps someone from spazzing in the future.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 08:03
|
|
|
quote:especially if the use of the motorcycle is not high. Tell him to stop being such a baby and ride the bike more!  That's pretty interesting though, thanks for sharing!
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 18:37
|
|
|
Snowdens Secret posted:Someone on another forum was flipping out about weird lines he was seeing in his Michelin Pilot Road 3s: I was wondering what those were on my PR3's. Thanks for posting this!
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 18:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:34 |
|
|
Just bought a 2009 KLR 650 that I'm taking on a trip to Alaska in about 2.5 weeks. PO was heavy into offroad so it's got some 60/40 knobbies on it (at least I think that's the ratio, just guessing here) and I'm thinking of switching to a 80/20 or 90/10 split for my ride up there. What's good for that? I'm not finding much tire resources online. I have zero tire buying experience.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 22:20
|
|
