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evil_bunnY posted:That's what I have, it's perfect. 
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Feb 6, 2013 11:01
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SoundMonkey posted:It's gotten better over time but does still happen for newer RAW formats. I'm mostly surprised at how much better it looks in Aperture untouched. It looks like absolute poo poo in ViewNX, although setting D-Lighting to 40 or so helps a ton.
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Feb 6, 2013 16:25
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evil_bunnY posted:You can't do it that way: auto ISO increases ISO above the base you select. God damnit this auto ISO stuff is like voodoo. Glad I just turned it off.
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Feb 6, 2013 16:50
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evil_bunnY posted:You can't do it that way: auto ISO increases ISO above the base you select. This was not the case on my D5100 and now my D7000.
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Feb 6, 2013 16:55
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Legdiian posted:This was not the case on my D5100 and now my D7000. Correct. http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/14130/~/how-does-the-auto-iso-feature-work%3F Basically: It goes up to a Maximum you select, minimum appears to depend on camera model (D200 in that link says minimum approx. ISO 200, D7000 manual says minimum ISO 100). Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 6, 2013 17:15
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Legdiian posted:This was not the case on my D5100 and now my D7000.
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Feb 6, 2013 17:32
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So I have a question: After using my Nikon F3 with a 105mm f/4 lens I really like the amount of control I have over it but I wish I was able to see how the pictures turned out and not have to pay $8 every time I want to develop film/$12 for 4 rolls of film. After dinking around with my mother-in-law's D3100 I noticed that I don't have as much control over things like aperture and ISO, the lens that's on it (I think it was an 18mm-55mm lens with auto/manual focus) feels light, plastic, and crappy, and while it's a nice camera and good at pointing and shooting stuff, I can't figure out how to "unlock", if you will, its potential like I can on my F3. Is this just because the D3100 is a beginner's DSLR and the lens is crap compared to the F3 or is it because I'm a retard who can't figure out how to put the camera into advanced user/god mode or something.
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Feb 6, 2013 17:45
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Tusen Takk posted:Is this just because the D3100 is a beginner's DSLR and the lens is crap compared to the F3 or is it because I'm a retard who can't figure out how to put the camera into advanced user/god mode or something. The D3100 is a very entry level camera, and does have a lot of limitations compared to the higher end dSLRs. Best bet, throw that 105 on something like a D90 and you'll probably find the experience much better.
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Feb 6, 2013 17:48
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Auto ISO is a hosed up setting. It shows up in the regular ISO menu on certain modes (like the useless Scene and Effects)  But it's nowhere to be seen on other modes like S, A, or even P.  (hard to tell from that photo, but it's on the lowest setting there: 100) If you go deep into the menu under ISO Sensitivity, you can change the ISO here. Auto shows up but it's disabled (greyed out) for most modes as well  But wait! There's another actual dedicated auto ISO setting right below that!  There it'll let you enable auto ISO in just about any mode except for Scene and Effects (it becomes greyed out) Whoever designed the auto ISO settings for this firmware was drunk.
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Feb 6, 2013 17:50
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Tusen Takk posted:Is this just because the D3100 is a beginner's DSLR and the lens is crap compared to the F3 or is it because I'm a retard who can't figure out how to put the camera into advanced user/god mode or something. BANME.sh posted:Whoever designed the auto ISO settings for this firmware was drunk.
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Feb 6, 2013 17:54
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It helps to think of Auto ISO as a complement to Aperture/Shutter Priority to complete Scott Petersen's (pbuh) Photographic Triangle. Aperture Priority lets the user lock down aperture and ISO by letting shutter speed float as needed to get a correct exposure. Shutter Priority lets the user lock down shutter speed and ISO by letting the aperture float. Auto ISO lets the user lock down aperture and shutter speed, by letting the ISO float. Unfortunately it also tends to over ride the other two modes (shutter priority in particular), because ~Nikon~. For example, when I'm at the dog park shooting some terrier chasing a ball, I know I need a shutter speed of 1/1000s, which usually means I'll need to bump the ISO. I set the minimum speed in Auto ISO to 1/1000, choose the max ISO it'll reach (say 3200), then set the camera to f/5.6 and shoot shoot, knowing the shutter speed won't go below 1/1000. If it's really bright out and that's still too slow for a good exposure even at ISO 100 then the camera will still use 1/1250 or whatever it needs. One nice thing about it on the 3100 is that the camera is allowed to select ISO settings between stops. If it's too dark for ISO 400 the user can only bump up to ISO 800, but the camera can choose ISO 640 if it wants. Now, let's say it's starting to get dark, and you want to ratchet down to 1/250 or so for some close-ups. No problem, go to shutter priority, select 1/250 and... you can't. That's because you selected 1/1000s in Auto ISO and you can't override it without turning it off, because ~Nikon~. It's a fantastic deal for action/sports/dog watching, but its set-and-forget nature can bite you in the rear end when that's exactly what you do.
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Feb 6, 2013 18:10
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Eegah posted:It helps to think of Auto ISO as a complement to Aperture/Shutter Priority to complete Scott Petersen's (pbuh) Photographic Triangle. BANME.sh posted:Nikon ISO stuff Oh dude this helps a lot, cheers!
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Feb 6, 2013 18:21
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Tusen Takk posted:Do the controls get easier to get to/manipulate with the higher level cameras? Between the cost of the DSLR's and the inability to be able to change things on the fly, I'd say it's almost easier to just learn how to take a proper photograph with the F3 and keep that, though the lack of RAW and dealing with Walgreens picture discs will be sad sad. Unless there's a really cheap negative scanner... Higher level cameras have two dials instead of one, and generally more dedicated controls. It does make everything easier on the fly. Just compare the controls of a d3100 with something like a D800 and you'll see how many more controls there are. Obviously jumping to a D800 probably isn't an option, but the level of control is similar what you have on an F3 and there are plenty of cheaper options that still have the "pro" controls.
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Feb 6, 2013 18:48
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Tusen Takk posted:Unless there's a really cheap negative scanner... I got an Epson V500 for 60 bucks on craigslist. It's totally serviceable for 35mm.
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Feb 6, 2013 20:18
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Hell, I use an epson 4490 even for 120 film. It's good enough for a casual shooter.
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Feb 6, 2013 20:27
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More proof of the 35/1.8's superiority for catte photos. I decided to do some experimentation with low light photos tonight, along with no flash: slinky2 by mrmoose007, on Flickr All I did was resize the picture. I let the camera save it in JPG. As I take more pictures and get used to the camera itself, I'll start going with RAW and touching them up myself. Also need to scout out a tripod - this picture came out blurrier than I would have liked, but the catte not shutting his eyes due to flash is awesome.
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Feb 7, 2013 03:32
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Hm, you seem to be mistaken as to what the 35/1.8 is properly used for.  That's better.
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Feb 7, 2013 03:39
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counterpoint
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Feb 7, 2013 04:10
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Hm. You offer an interesting perspective. That said,
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Feb 7, 2013 04:54
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There's some kind of blurry mop in front of that grass.
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Feb 7, 2013 05:01
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I just took a roll of pictures of my puppy, going to work so I'll get them developed while I'm there (I work for Walgreens  ).
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Feb 7, 2013 06:39
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So my D600 has a masssssive amount of oil on the sensor. Doesn't show up in much stuff we've shot since I rarely go above F8, but I noticed it on a shoot the other day (luckily not for any footage we needed). What's the best way to go about cleaning this? Myself? I've never cleaned a sensor before so that makes me a little nervous. The local camera place claims they don't clean full frame sensors so the only other option is to send it off somewhere which seems cost prohibitive.
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Feb 7, 2013 17:07
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BonoMan posted:So my D600 has a masssssive amount of oil on the sensor. Doesn't show up in much stuff we've shot since I rarely go above F8, but I noticed it on a shoot the other day (luckily not for any footage we needed). Probably these would be your best bet. http://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Swab-Type-Box-12/dp/B0029WUKVG You'll want some eclipse cleaning solution probably too.
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Feb 7, 2013 17:16
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If you have a ton of crud on your sensor, send it to nikon, pay the fee. They get it clean the first time. The local place here wouldnt touch it with a 10foot pole due to "liability".
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Feb 7, 2013 17:43
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BANME.sh posted:Auto ISO is a hosed up setting. Auto Iso in the entry levels is scrubtier compared to the D... ohhh those cameras dont do scene mode anyways.
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Feb 7, 2013 17:45
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So I got better at using the lightmetre and controlling aperture, shutter speed, and all that stuff; still gotta work on things being over exposed. Now to not have such a shaky hand/kind of jerk up or to the side after I press the shutter button.    I'm still terrible, only slightly less. 
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Feb 8, 2013 00:14
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Tusen Takk posted:So I got better at using the lightmetre and controlling aperture, shutter speed, and all that stuff; still gotta work on things being over exposed. Now to not have such a shaky hand/kind of jerk up or to the side after I press the shutter button. You just don't have enough light. Your shutter speed is too slow. Here's the rule of thumb I use for hand holding shots. You need a shutter speed at least 1 over the focal length of your lens. So you are zoomed out at 55mm, you need at least 1/55th sec.. and since there's not a 1/55th setting, you need more, 1/60th a second. If you can't get that at 55mm while the aperture is wide open, you need to do one of the following things to correct it. 1) Go to a high ISO 2) Go to a wider angle, at 18mm you only have to hit 1/18th sec to get a steady shot 3) Use a flash (Preferably a hot shoe flash bounced off the ceiling 4) Go somewhere that there's more light, perhaps take the dog outside 5) Buy a "faster" lens, get something that goes to a lower aperture, like a f/1.8 lens. 6) Get a lens with VR and turn that on, that'll get your 1 or 2 stops of extra light so you can shoot at a slightly lower than 1/focal length shutterspeed. Care to share your settings on these pics?
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Feb 8, 2013 00:39
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echobucket posted:You just don't have enough light. Your shutter speed is too slow. It's a Nikon F3 with a Micro-Nikkon 105mm f/4 lens (no zoom).  I get the film developed and loaded onto a disc which I then transfer to my computer and upload  . If I had the ability to have the exact control over everything like I do on the F3 but with a digit screen/output, I'd be  . Thing is, I got the F3 for $5 at a garage sale and while I'd love to buy a super nice camera and have all the same settings like on the D800/D7000/whatever, the camera is worth at most $600 if I sold it, and I can't justify spending $2500 on a fancy pantsy camera for a hobby I've only recently developed a taste for.Your advice is exactly what I was working towards, but in slow steps. I read the recommended book on exposure and gained alot from it, if I was able to see the image instantly this'd be a lot easier
FAT32 SHAMER fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 01:06
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Sell the f3 and buy the d5000 I have for sale, it'll do all your fancy pants stuff. 
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Feb 8, 2013 01:14
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The interface won't be the same, but you don't have any less control over an entry level DSLR.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:15
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Seriously, even though I upgraded from a D3100 I wouldn't knock it -- it served me wonderfully for two years, enough that I still want to keep it for a spare. Go get one, or maybe a 5100 since those are cheaper too.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:20
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Tusen Takk posted:It's a Nikon F3 with a Micro-Nikkon 105mm f/4 lens (no zoom). Get an old 50mm f/1.8 for it then. Use a higher ISO film when you are shooting inside You are still going to need at least 1/105th second with that 105mm lens to get decent shots.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:24
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Eegah posted:Seriously, even though I upgraded from a D3100 I wouldn't knock it -- it served me wonderfully for two years, enough that I still want to keep it for a spare. Go get one, or maybe a 5100 since those are cheaper too. I really want to try to get good with the F3 since when the pictures turn out they are spectacular, the problem is until then it's a pretty high cost and a shitload of terrible photographs. Mr. Despair posted:Sell the f3 and buy the d5000 I have for sale, it'll do all your fancy pants stuff.  echobucket posted:Get an old 50mm f/1.8 for it then. Use a higher ISO film when you are shooting inside Why didn't I think of this... 
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Feb 8, 2013 01:25
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I don't know about you guys but once I'm past 85mm or so there's no way I could handhold without doing 1/2xfocal length for shutter speed (assuming no IS of course). Meanwhile I can handhold down to like 1/4 at 16mm.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:27
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edit != quote
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Feb 8, 2013 01:27
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Tusen Takk posted:It's a Nikon F3 with a Micro-Nikkon 105mm f/4 lens (no zoom). And actually if you can sell the F3 and get $600 you should do that and buy an entry level DSLR. You won't be spending even more money on film and processing while you are learning. Also your learning will go faster because you can get instant gratification.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:28
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Whoops I mean it's worth like $400-$500. I have an old Canon A1 with a shitload of lenses to sell too... Hmm. Time to go shopping I guess 
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Feb 8, 2013 01:29
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Tusen Takk posted:Whoops I mean it's worth like $400-$500. I have an old Canon A1 with a shitload of lenses to sell too... Hmm. Also, you can get a used DSLR, something like an D80 or a D70 with the kit lens for way cheaper than $600 if you shop around. I would be looking at keh.com and your local craigslist for something like that.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:32
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I replied to your pm and pointed you to my post in the buy/sell thread. And I have to say that when in full manual mode I can control everything vital (iso, aperture, shutter speed) without going into any menus. Remapping the fn button to control ISO and figuring out the aperture control shortcut comes in real handy though, it's not really intuitive out of the box. That and every camera I've held has that same "cheap plastic feel", even the higher end ones. It's just the way they coat cameras nowadays. The weight/size of the camera seems to be the bigger difference than me (with a d3xxx being smaller than a d5xxxx being smaller than a d7xxxx, etc). Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 01:47
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Your price is super duper tempting! I'm shopping around for a D90 too, though, but I am glad that the D5000 are bigger than the D3100 since I have huge hands and I constantly poke my nose into the review button. So the F3 camera body is going on eBay/CL tonight and we'll see how it goes
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Feb 8, 2013 02:00
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