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The manual is only available in the lowest trim at launch, it's supposedly coming later for the Touring trim. All of the reviewers who have tried one seem to love it, which is par for the course for a Mazda manual gearbox. Edit: Autoblog has spy shots of what appears to be the next 3  I like where this is going. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Feb 12, 2013 |
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Feb 12, 2013 17:43
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It sorta looks like the current 3 underpinings/interior with a new front and rear end. Although I personally don't mind the smiley face, especially in black, it seems to bug the poo poo out of my friends so thats prolly a good idea.
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Feb 12, 2013 18:20
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The joker-grin of the current 3 has grown on me over the years, but I prefer the first-gen 3's more subdued styling, and vastly prefer the way the 'Kodo' design looks on the CX5 and 6.
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Feb 12, 2013 18:23
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Is it just me or does the hood look even longer than on the current version? e: VVV Is it bad that I identified that as being shot in Canada by the Tim's cup lying in the gutter, and not the ON plate? Phy fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Feb 12, 2013 |
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Feb 12, 2013 18:26
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Phy posted:Is it just me or does the hood look even longer than on the current version? Yeah, I pulled a 2013 3 picture up next to it and the parts I thought were the same (window and pillar size/placement) are actually pretty different. And that front overhang is waaaay bigger. For comparison: 
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Feb 12, 2013 19:00
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AWD Speed3 please? Its basically a CX5! Make it happen.
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Feb 13, 2013 03:31
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I've had my 07 MS6 since I bought it new. Love the drat thing, every day it brings a smile to my face. I read through a few pages, but not much about modifications. Is it frowned upon to post up lists of modifications?
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Feb 13, 2013 04:46
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copperswallow posted:I've had my 07 MS6 since I bought it new. I feel the same way about mine (owned just over 2 years now). I don't see any reason to not post your modifications. Frankly I haven't done too much and have a little planned mostly based on lack of knowledge for what to do without blowing the DISI to pieces. It seems like info out there is spotty and inconsistent.
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Feb 14, 2013 06:52
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copperswallow posted:I've had my 07 MS6 since I bought it new. I would kill for a list of good mods that aren't hotly debated by retards on other forums consistantly blowing their engines. Edit: Replaced shocks with the cheapy $70 KYBs. My stock shocks must have been destroyed because it feels so much better now.
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Feb 14, 2013 15:39
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I don't even know how to tell if my shocks need replacing. 
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Feb 14, 2013 16:46
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I don't even know how to tell if my shocks need replacing. Do you steer away from utility covers in the road that are nearly flush with the pavement? You need shocks. IOwnCalculus posted:Alternatively, do you have at least 50,000 miles on it? You probably at least need to replace the front struts. Wuss. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Feb 14, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 16:49
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Alternatively, do you have at least 50,000 miles on it? You probably at least need to replace the front struts. I replaced mine at 101k and the front struts were just completely done (honestly I should've replaced the strut bearings too) but the rears were still in pretty good shape.
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Feb 14, 2013 17:07
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I'm closing in on 75,000 and the only thing I've done are oil changes and tires. I think they did a bigger service at 60,000 but have no clue what they did. I think it included a transmission service. I'm sure it wasn't shocks though. I'm probably due for brakes soon too.
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Feb 14, 2013 20:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Alternatively, do you have at least 50,000 miles on it? You probably at least need to replace the front struts. Er gently caress. Guess I better look into that since I'm pushing 84k myself  Before hydrolocking, I got my transmission flushed at 50something too. That Redline MT90 stuff is pretty good (tip: buy it from a Ford dealer).
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Feb 14, 2013 20:16
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I'm closing in on 75,000 and the only thing I've done are oil changes and tires. I think they did a bigger service at 60,000 but have no clue what they did. I think it included a transmission service. I'm sure it wasn't shocks though. I'm probably due for brakes soon too. You're on the original brakes???
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Feb 14, 2013 20:42
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Rhyno posted:You're on the original brakes??? Wow, I didn't even notice that too, that's ridiculous if those pads aren't completely roasted. My brakes had to get changed just before 50k. I wasn't really a fan of the Hawk Ceramics that replaced stock - what are you guys running?
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Feb 14, 2013 20:52
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Rhyno posted:You're on the original brakes???  VEdit: I have a service appointment tomorrow so I'm sure they'll check it out. Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Feb 14, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 21:12
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air- posted:Wow, I didn't even notice that too, that's ridiculous if those pads aren't completely roasted. My brakes had to get changed just before 50k. I wasn't really a fan of the Hawk Ceramics that replaced stock - what are you guys running? PO ground through the stock pads by 22K, rotors were bad so they had to be turned. Running stock pads now but plan to go to Hawks at 60K. Dunno about rotors yet. Eagerly awaiting the CS coilovers which should be out right around when I hit 60K as well. Star War Sex Parrot posted:My last service they said the pads were still in okay shape but should start thinking about replacing them, and commented that however I drove to make them last that long, keep doing it. V You drive like a sane, reasonable human? You don't belong here.
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Feb 14, 2013 21:26
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I'd bet the pads they put in the normal-person 3 are a good bit longer-lived than the pads they put in the crazy-people cars most of us have It also depends a lot on driving style, too. My front Hawk HPS pads went on at 42k, and they're still on with 121k. My rears are actually still OEM and had a ridiculous amount of pad left when I checked them while doing the rear shocks. Most of those miles were put on doing 25-mile one-way commutes in the HOV lane.
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Feb 14, 2013 22:18
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I feel the same way about mine (owned just over 2 years now). I don't see any reason to not post your modifications. Frankly I haven't done too much and have a little planned mostly based on lack of knowledge for what to do without blowing the DISI to pieces. It seems like info out there is spotty and inconsistent. + Cobb AccessPort + GT3076R + KMD HPFP internals + StratifiedAuto EBCS + ETS 3.5" Top-Mount Intercooler + M2 Downpipe -- Zero Cats + Cobb BT TIP (preproduction model) + Custom made Short Ram Intake with 3.5" MAF housing + Methanol injection w/ D05 nozzle + JBR Short shifter, bushings and 1 lb shift knob + JBR IM Spacer + SURE Airport + Saiku Michi Oil Catch Can + JBR EGR delete + StratifiedAuto Guardian Angel (boost spike/surge protection) + ROTORA Slotted rotors and carbotech ceramic pads + 18"x8" gunmetal Rx8 wheels + 225/45/18 Hankook Ventus v12s + Megan V6 springs (2 inch drop all around) + SPC Camber adjust ball joints + AWR Rear Motor Mount + AWR Adjustable RSB Endlinks + SURE Juggernaut (front rear diff mount) + SURE Dreadnaught (rear rear diff mount) + Whiteline Rear Sway Bar + Apexcone HID fogs and highs + Prosport Mech Boost gauge + cheap, lightweight hondasize battery relocated to trunk. + Tinted sidemarkers & tails (I see some of you don't like it though, haha) + MSD Dashhawk + CP-e Injector seals just rolled over to 70k on the odometer. still running strong. As for someone asking about doing the service on the car, what do you have, MS3 or 6? I've replaced all my fluids with Amsoil on my MS6. the job is not hard to do if you have a flat garage and four jackstands. I didnt at the time, an inclined driveway. The fill and drain bolts are easy to get to, and I think all of them are 17mm, if I recall correctly... You can do all that yourself in a nice evening. I know that the dealership wanted to charge me an arm and a leg. After I did it, I could not understand why they would. It was about as easy as an oil change... just 3 times for the transmission, PTO, and rear differential. copperswallow fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Feb 15, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 23:50
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I drive a 2008 MS3: -Gen2 motor (original hydrolocked) -Mazdaspeed CAI converted to SRI -AWR 88 durometer rear motor mount -Cobb Shifter Weight -Autotech HPFP Internals -AP -Corksport Adjustable Rear Camber Arms -Kumho Ecsta SPT 225-40-18 -Cobb Knob -Hawk Ceramic pads
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Feb 15, 2013 02:18
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I'm closing in on 75,000 and the only thing I've done are oil changes and tires. I think they did a bigger service at 60,000 but have no clue what they did. I think it included a transmission service. I'm sure it wasn't shocks though. I'm probably due for brakes soon too. I'm on original brakes at 60k, still have plenty, same with my 2003 WRX when I traded it in. On manual transmission N/A cars at least, the fluid is changed every 30,000 miles.
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Feb 15, 2013 02:53
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Rhyno posted:You drive like a sane, reasonable human?
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Feb 15, 2013 07:42
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:How did I never find this thread? I'll play! Here's my 2006 3s GT:
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Feb 16, 2013 05:46
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Assuming that's the case: what's a reasonable estimate for clutch lifespan for someone who doesn't abuse it? Anywhere between 100k and 200k, depending on whether we're talking city or highway. I've only ever had one of my own cars long enough to need it ('99 Miata) and even then it was a dead throwout bearing that took the clutch with it. My dad went through clutches in his Camaros in half that mileage but he launched them regularly and they were V8s.
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Feb 16, 2013 05:55
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:I popped that shark fin antenna off today. The adhesive at the back had lifted off, and I was tired of the terrible reception. After an hour or so with dental floss, Goo-Gone, and neutral soap you can't tell it was ever there. I'm not a huge fan of the OEM antenna that makes it look like an RC car, but at least I can listen to AM stations again! I had the VG shark fin on my 2005 6S and I liked it. It didn't seem to affect my radio reception. A lot of people will buy the stubby antenna from the CX-7, fits right in place of the stocker. I want to say they're around 30 bucks.
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Feb 16, 2013 17:08
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Looks like my 06 MS6 may have a bent rod (clutch pedal has a lot of vibration when I press it lightly). It's close to 100k with no notable problems since I got it three years ago, so it was only a matter of time. I was considering doing it myself, though I'm thinking of taking it to a shop due to the time it would take. I was considering upgrading some of the internals while I was at it, but figured I would rather put the effort into the RX7 that I'm working on as a track car already. I am going to have the VVT actuator and timing chain replaced since it feels a little loose and I'm almost 30k above the common failure point. The RX7 is more or less road legal right now, so I'm planning on DDing it until the MS6 is back up, giving me a little more leeway on time. The car is totally stock right now, and the lovely BOV the last owner installed (quickly replaced with the stock BPV) seemed to be the only thing close to a mod it ever had, aside from the sweet red paint they put on the calipers that's like half flaked off  Is there anything else that I'm missing that should be taken care of while I already have the engine open? Again, this is my DD so I'm not looking to do anything particularly drastic, just if it'd be dumb to not do something while the engine is already out.
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Feb 18, 2013 19:41
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stoko posted:Is there anything else that I'm missing that should be taken care of while I already have the engine open? Again, this is my DD so I'm not looking to do anything particularly drastic, just if it'd be dumb to not do something while the engine is already out. Maybe walnut shell blast the accumlated carbon crud off the intake valves. I can't find the good links right now, but due to being Direct Injected there is no fuel to wash the stuff off so it accumlates pretty well.
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Feb 18, 2013 23:09
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So the axle is totally hosed and needs to be replaced. Another annoyance this week.
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Feb 18, 2013 23:14
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Rhyno posted:So the axle is totally hosed and needs to be replaced. Another annoyance this week. Which one and how the hell did that happen?
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Feb 18, 2013 23:43
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Laranzu posted:Which one and how the hell did that happen? Front driver. The seal failed and it back out slightly. I drove it like that too long and damaged it. Edit: I was unaware of it, I saw some spots on the driveway at my mother's house and had them check it and they found the damage.
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Feb 18, 2013 23:51
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Yay I replaced my broken cigarette lighter port and rain gutter things.
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Feb 22, 2013 04:44
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CharlesM posted:Yay I replaced my broken cigarette lighter port and rain gutter things. The plastic strip thingies that sit up against your windows? Where did you find them? Dealership wante like $150 bucks to get the parts for me. Mine are downright shredded. Hope the doors drain well.
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Feb 22, 2013 05:47
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Nah, on the roof. I special ordered these, they have little removable covers that expose the hidden mounting points for a roof rack. I drilled into my stock ones because I was in a hurry before. I don't know why they're special order in the U.S. Guess they don't expect any U.S. owners to use a roof rack or whatever. The factory mounting points are there and work great.  
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Feb 22, 2013 08:54
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Is the Skyactiv engine in the Mazda3 non-interference or inference?
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Feb 26, 2013 13:47
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Definitely interference. What oil are you guys running in your 'speeds? This will be the first change I don't take to the dealer. Also, how were the rotors around 40k? I'm due for at least front pads, trying to decide if I should go rotors also. Haven't examined them much beyond a glance. SynMoo fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 14:00
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SynMoo posted:Definitely interference. Edit: By the way, I bought an automatic 2012 Mazda3 I Grand Touring hatchback in Crystal White Pearl Mica on Saturday, and got the factory extended warranty since this Skyactiv stuff seems like alien technology. Only drove it once (home from the dealer) other than the test drive since half of my right arm is in a cast (broke my right wrist when I wrecked my 99 Celica GT) but I will probably do some light driving with it soon. It reminds me a lot of the Volvo 850 GLT I used to own (then I find out Volvo contributed to the platform lol) which is pretty cool. Oh, so how does the Mazda Curse work exactly? DanAdamKOF fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 14:03
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Some quick Google-fu could tell you, but I didn't even have to do that. These engines are so high compression that it would be seemingly impossible to design them without being interference and still get proper flow in and out of the cylinder. Most modern engines are interference.
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Feb 26, 2013 14:42
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SynMoo posted:Definitely interference. Pennzoil Platinum does really well in the DISI. I had to have my front rotors turned at 12k, but now at 36k they are still fine, though I have to do my pads soon. Did one track day on them in 2011.
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Feb 26, 2013 15:23
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SynMoo posted:Definitely interference. What is your driving style? I typically use this Pennzoil Platinum with 5k intervals since it's mostly highway when it does get driven (mostly just one weekends or maybe a trip to the store during the week). When I was dealing with stop/go traffic, I had Rotella T6 and it is truly great for performance. Not my UOA, but someone from MSF had posted this. Amsoil first column, Rotella for the rest. I'm honestly kinda tempted to try out Rotella at 5k intervals and I really should do a UOA on my new motor...  Also roughly 40k was when I changed my pads and there weren't any issues on the rotors. And welcome DanAdamKOF. Your next move now is to become bff's with Victor at Town North Mazda. Really great guy and he will move heaven and earth for you if/when you have to deal with a warranty problem. edit: added UOA air- fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 15:45
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