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A MIRACLE posted:I have hardwood floors and when people stomp around in my house it vibrates through table and the subwoofer makes a lot of noise. Is there a good way to dampen vibrations to the table? Planning a party for the weekend and I don't want crazy dancing in my house to gently caress things up A wall mounted shelf is probably all you can do.
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Feb 7, 2013 20:04
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| # ? May 9, 2024 18:35 |
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A MIRACLE posted:I have hardwood floors and when people stomp around in my house it vibrates through table and the subwoofer makes a lot of noise. Is there a good way to dampen vibrations to the table? Planning a party for the weekend and I don't want crazy dancing in my house to gently caress things up Just save the records for when you're alone, that's how I solve that problem. Spotify is my party DJ.
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Feb 7, 2013 22:45
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Nothing would be as much fun as spinning records at a party until a drunk guy comes along and knocks the tone arm across the record. The wall shelf is your best bet. Only other thing I can think of is to set the table on something really heavy or something that dampens vibrations or a combination of the two. The closer you set the table to the walls, the better. Floors flex and vibrate more in their centers. Corners get a lot of standing waves from the bass bouncing around so avoid those too.
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Feb 9, 2013 07:40
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Yea, just use an mp3 player and a big playlist.
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Feb 9, 2013 15:31
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Yep, just going with the spotify suggestion and hoping no one destroys my Air. the records will come out for the ``afterparty'' when it's a little more quiet
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Feb 9, 2013 19:30
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Hi thread, I recently bought a B-Tech preamp to use with my Cambridge AM5 amp and a ProJect essentials turntable. I've hooked it up, and I can get sound through the left channel or the right channel, but not both at the same time. When I plug both in, I get good sound through the left speaker, and I technically get sound through the right speaker as well, although it is barely audible. As far as I can tell, everything is plugged in to the right place, so what is causing this? If I let one of the wires hang out of the socket a bit (I.e it isn't plugged in securely, I will get the right volume of sound, but it doesn't sound very clear, and as soon as I plug it in properly, the balance all shifts into the left speaker. Is my preamp defective? What can I do? e: After much fiddling, it is the "right" channel of the wire that links the amp to the preamp that is faulty. nomapple fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 9, 2013 22:45
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Huh, I would have bet money on that being a phase issue.
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Feb 10, 2013 01:30
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I've got a question for y'all. The OP hasn't been updated for a while and I don't recall seeing any speaker chat recently so I'd like to know if there are any bookshelf speakers priced around $100 that anyone could recommend. My current speakers have been in use for a while and they're starting to die, so I figure I should just upgrade to something beefier. I would appreciate any suggestions.
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Feb 10, 2013 07:05
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Ron Burgundy posted:Huh, I would have bet money on that being a phase issue. Yeah I thought I'd just plugged things in the wrong way or something, but then I realised it was always the red wire that was the quiet one, and then when I plugged it in just with the red wires, if I held the wire at different angles, the sound would stop. Anyway, that's why you don't order cables that cost a total of £1.07p off amazon, even if you are on a budget!
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Feb 10, 2013 12:56
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Yeah I usually buy the cheapest stuff I can find on Cable Chick which is usually cheaper than DSE which are real rip-off merchants lately. I'm sure Dick himself would be saddened by what the place that bears his name has become, ie: an overpriced retail electrical store that sells no electronic components.
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Feb 10, 2013 16:49
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peskyplumber posted:I've got a question for y'all. The OP hasn't been updated for a while and I don't recall seeing any speaker chat recently so I'd like to know if there are any bookshelf speakers priced around $100 that anyone could recommend. My current speakers have been in use for a while and they're starting to die, so I figure I should just upgrade to something beefier. I would appreciate any suggestions. http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/a-great-bookshelf-speaker/ BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 11, 2013 06:52
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peskyplumber posted:I've got a question for y'all. The OP hasn't been updated for a while and I don't recall seeing any speaker chat recently so I'd like to know if there are any bookshelf speakers priced around $100 that anyone could recommend. My current speakers have been in use for a while and they're starting to die, so I figure I should just upgrade to something beefier. I would appreciate any suggestions. You could go used or vintage too. I picked up a set of these for $40.
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Feb 11, 2013 12:01
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Moving house soon, totally forgot I owned this monstrosity until I was clearing out the garage. The Sharp Optonica RP-104. I threw a new power and audio cable on as they were cut off by it's previous owner who knew the untold damage this monster could wreak. I found it on bulk rubbish, hard waste or whatever you call it.  It sounds like a sandwich but BSLT stands for Both Sides Linear Tracker. It's also a vertical linear tracker. Basically this means that you can completely destroy all of your records without even leaving your favourite armchair.  Next ride to the vinyl afterlife, all aboard James Taylor. A few companies made these, Mitsubishi made much higher quality versions that are actually good. It's a novel idea, and arrived just in time to help play the swan song of vinyl's heyday. The massive tracking forces required to make (the Sharp version) work are pretty unacceptable for the 80's.
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Feb 11, 2013 13:38
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Are the phono preamp recommendations still current? I'm hooking a 1200 up to an Onkyo receiver; I don't need insane audiophile sound but I don't know if the $20 stuff on Newegg gets me anything decent. Looking to spend maybe $50, but I'd be willing to up that a little if it means a big quality difference.
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Feb 12, 2013 19:49
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idiotsavant posted:Are the phono preamp recommendations still current? I'm hooking a 1200 up to an Onkyo receiver; I don't need insane audiophile sound but I don't know if the $20 stuff on Newegg gets me anything decent. Looking to spend maybe $50, but I'd be willing to up that a little if it means a big quality difference. Yup, I got the TC750 and couldn't be happier. I have an Onkyo A-9070 http://www.eu.onkyo.com/en/products/a-9070-58611.html and it beats the crap out of the built -in phono preamp, much quieter. I can hear hiss around -20 db on the built in and have to crank it around 0 to 5 db to hear anything on the TC750.
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Feb 13, 2013 02:05
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So I went to play some LPs earlier- as I usually do most days- and all of a sudden I started to get a horribly scratchy (like static on 'roids) sound out of a new (and normally very good-sounding) record. I futzed around with all of the connections on the receiver and turntable, changed the record a bunch of times, and checked the stylus for debris. No change, but when I put a little bit of downward pressure on the headshell, it sounds a smidge better (but by no means 'good'). I suppose this means that the old stylus finally bit the dust, right? It turns out that I can't simply replace the stylus because the cartridge (Shure R47XT) has been long discontinued (it was made exclusively for Radio Shack) and Shure never bothered to carry replacements since it was "Radio Shack's responsibility" and God knows Radio Shack doesn't have anything. Ebay and the internet haven't been much help either. So now I'm looking to replace the whole cartridge assembly (which is fine- it's not like the R47XT was particularly great to begin with) but I don't want to spend a lot of money. I've been planning to replace my current ("borrowed" from Dad) table with a ProJect Debut Carbon for some time, and that comes with an Ortofon 2M Red. However, I can't do that for a few months and I would like to listen to my LPs until then. But since this replacement is in the pipeline, I don't want to blow too much on a cart now. What's the cheapest good cartridge y'all can recommend me?
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Feb 17, 2013 20:33
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If it's only for a few months get a Red Ed. Or if you want to splurge, an AT-95e
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Feb 18, 2013 02:08
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Could be the headshell contacts, try taking it off and cleaning off the contacts on the headshell and tonearm with something abrasive and fine like 1k grit sandpaper or an eraser.
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Feb 18, 2013 02:09
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Retarded Pimp posted:Could be the headshell contacts, try taking it off and cleaning off the contacts on the headshell and tonearm with something abrasive and fine like 1k grit sandpaper or an eraser. Nah, it was definitely the stylus. I ended up just replacing the cart with an AudioTechnica CN5625AL that I picked up at the record store about 2 blocks from my apartment. $25 and they also mounted and aligned it for me- not a bad deal seeing as the cart alone would've been at least $30 with shipping from Needledoctor + the wait and the potential clusterfuck of self-installation (the last time I did a cart replacement on an old table like this, I snapped one of the brittle 30-year old lead wires and it was an ordeal to get a replacement). Everything's working fine now.
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Feb 19, 2013 17:32
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So, I happened to fall into some DJ turntable / styli. I now have two Stanton T60s, and a set of Ortofon Pro-S cartridges. Only thing is, I can't tell if they are in good nick. I swapped the needles around and I managed to get some better sound, but I still hear some muffle / distortion. Especially on the one album I have, "IIO - Rapture". Are the Pro-S's decent or should I go for something else? Sorry for the nub-like qualities of this post. (Also pissed that my Herb Alpert - Rise vinyl has a scratch.  )
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Feb 20, 2013 00:21
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Technics SA-300 and a SL-1200mkII with a Shure M92E installed for $400 locally. Both are supposed to be in great condition, what say you all? Good deal or no? Edit: I meant to mention that it would be $50 less without the M92E if I choose to go that route. Edit+: Met the dude, they're both in loving PERFECT shape, said 'gently caress it' and I'm setting things up now. Totally stoked. He's in the middle of restoring a bunch of Mcintosh gear that I'm going to look at in a couple of weeks too. Cool rear end guy, into the whole thing to support his habit and isn't asking stupid prices for stuff. iostream.h fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Feb 22, 2013 |
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Feb 21, 2013 17:54
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I don't see people talking about the Technics 1500 or 1600 much. I'm looking for a nice older turntable, and the 1500s look great (I don't care much for the automatic function of the 1600). 1200Mk2s seem really expensive, and I'm interested in this for listening purposes. Needs to be a silver Technics for nostalgia reasons  , but should I spend the extra cash on a 1200 or is the 1500 just as good for listening?
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Feb 22, 2013 07:14
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iostream.h posted:Technics SA-300 and a SL-1200mkII with a Shure M92E installed for $400 locally. Where is "locally"? Prices on used gear are so location-dependent, I don't think I would be able to answer this even if I was an expert (which I'm not). I'm sure it would cost even more here, but  .
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Feb 22, 2013 14:07
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:Where is "locally"? Prices on used gear are so location-dependent, I don't think I would be able to answer this even if I was an expert (which I'm not). It's hard to lay hands on anything at all here, Atlanta is a little better for shops especially, but hard to get any Craigslist deals because of the distance involved. A little high nationally but I feel pretty good about the price as I was able to demo and inspect before I bought. The difference in sound from my older, cheaper turntable is incredible.
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Feb 22, 2013 16:03
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AbsoluteLlama posted:I don't see people talking about the Technics 1500 or 1600 much. I have SL-1500 that I picked up for a lark this past summer because it required some caps to be replaced. The general impression I got from my research is that the 1500 is functionally the same turntable as the 1200; however it has dials to finetune the RPM instead of sliders. In other words, the SL-1200 tone arm is interchangable, the dustcover is interchangable, you get the idea. Doomy fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Feb 22, 2013 |
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Feb 22, 2013 16:39
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It's amazing, loving AMAZING what pulling out vinyl does to a small party, loving amazing. Edit: Seriously, dropping the needle on 'Free Bird' at a house party in Alabama is still and will always be utterly awesome. iostream.h fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Feb 24, 2013 |
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Feb 24, 2013 05:07
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Is there any reason to change a cartridge (with no apparent damage) in a turntable rather than just giving it a good clean and using deoxit (or something cheaper) where the stylus slides in? I've got an old Dual 510 and I've ordered a new Shure stylus, but I hear a lot of people like to change the whole thing. Do cartridges wear out? I'd ask in Audiokarma, but they see spending $300 on a new cartridge as a drop in the bucket.
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Feb 26, 2013 14:57
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An sl-b202 is on Craigslist: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ele/3645205405.html 60usd. Is this a decent deal? I'm looking for a turntable to just listen to vinyl, and semi-auto is about as automatic as I'd want to get.
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Feb 26, 2013 21:20
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So, I did a thing today:  The color in the picture is a bit off, it's actually florescent yellow, it looks GLORIOUS with the lights off and the blacklight on. More on topic, can I get some guidance on what to print out to align my cartridge/headshell properly? I'd like to just make sure it's in the right spot and all. iostream.h fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 22:23
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Have a look at the Technics Arc Protractor on vinylengine.com. I haven't tried it because I'm using a concorde but they seem to know what they are talking about.
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Mar 1, 2013 10:04
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The white plastic Technics Overhang Gauge will actually get you pretty drat close. I checked with the protractor after using this tool and the differences were negligible. They ship with the turntable, but they go missing almost instantly. They also make an instant spare headshell stand.
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Mar 1, 2013 10:24
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BANME.sh posted:Not much you can get for $100 but The Wirecutter highly recommends these at $130 Just a heads up for anyone else looking for speakers: these just dropped to $90 on Amazon. I'll probably pick them up soon, thanks for the suggestion. E: Whoops now they're at 69. Nice. peskyplumber fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 17:02
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Showing up for me at $69.99
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Mar 1, 2013 19:29
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So I walked into a thrift store the other day not looking for anything at all and I walked out with a blue faced Marantz 2226B receiver for $35 and some Technics SB-K22 floor standing speakers for $6.50 (both were half off because of white dot Wednesday or whatever). The speakers aren't exactly high end, but they really sound great to me, and frankly I think I did really, really well here, because I've been looking for a receiver like this for at least ten years now and have never seen anything Marantz at a thrift store other than some ancient single cassette decks. Of course it's a thrift store receiver from the 70s and with that always come problems, which is why I'm here. Two of the blue lamps are out which is no big deal to me, but for some reason I get the volume on the right side intermittently cutting out. It's not a problem with the speaker terminals themselves, because it does this on both speaker outputs as well as through headphones. It's so noticeable that I've now got it functioning as a power amp only, with my piece of poo poo 80s Kenwood KC-206 "stereo control amplifier" operating as the preamp. Though this cures the intermittent cutting out, it doesn't change the fact that it still sounds like the Kenwood, and not that beautiful full sound I was getting out of the Marantz. Any ideas as to what could be causing this and how to fix it? Lightly slapping the sides of the casing the way you would an old TV seems to fix it temporarily which leads me to believe that it's a bad connection somewhere. I'm not very good with a soldering iron, so anything major will have to be done by a professional, but in the meantime I thought opening it up and hitting it with computer duster and a Deoxit treatment might not be a bad idea. Any suggestions beyond that would be very much appreciated.
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Mar 2, 2013 09:55
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Do the cleaning first, that's the most likely problem. It's probably crap in the volume pot and other controls. If it's really nasty, you may have to pull out the pot and open it up to clean it. That's a good deal, btw.
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Mar 2, 2013 19:38
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Retarded Pimp posted:Do the cleaning first, that's the most likely problem. It's probably crap in the volume pot and other controls. If it's really nasty, you may have to pull out the pot and open it up to clean it. This. As someone who is constantly buying receivers out of thrift stores, the number one thing that's wrong with them is that they just need a good deoxit scrubdown. That usually restores them to full life... at least until the caps go.
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Mar 3, 2013 08:09
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If you don't want to shell out for Deoxit, you can go to pretty much any automotive supply store or section and buy some manner of contact cleaner. Read the back and make sure it says "plastic safe" and "no residue". These are usually a fraction of the cost of Deoxit, and most of them have more of the active ingredient as well. I bought a cheap can of no-name contact cleaner and got all the cracking and hissing out of a volume and balance knob that was being a pain.
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Mar 3, 2013 23:09
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I've heard horror stories of some contact cleaners corroding the inside of switch assemblies even though they said plastic safe. Specifically those inside some vintage Pioneer models. Deoxit is only ~$20 per can, it'll last you years, and won't leave any residue inside pots and switches (which can't be said for other lower grade ones), meaning your cleaning job will last. Just go with the good stuff!
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Mar 4, 2013 02:06
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BANME.sh posted:I've heard horror stories of some contact cleaners corroding the inside of switch assemblies even though they said plastic safe. Specifically those inside some vintage Pioneer models. Deoxit is only ~$20 per can, it'll last you years, and won't leave any residue inside pots and switches (which can't be said for other lower grade ones), meaning your cleaning job will last. Just go with the good stuff! You can get it for even less than that, but this is more about the Deoxit "myth". Don't read if you have severe brand loyalty issues. I'm not trying to be a dick, but I've heard these tales as well and have never encountered a person who it has happened to (real life or online). It's always been "my friend knows a guy who had contact cleaner destroy his receiver", but you are never able to get a hold of this "friend of a friend". Also Caig Laboratories (makers of deoxit) used to have that very same thing posted on their site a few years ago that went something like, "...also, Doxit won't melt or dissolve plastic parts like other contact cleaners do". This is true and false at the same time because some contact cleaners are quite aggressive, and made for industrial applications, and are not made with plastic in mind (they specifically say "May harm plastic"). "Plastic Friendly/Safe/Appropriate" contact cleaners are no different than Deoxit, except they are lacking a few of the lubricating/preserving ingredients that Deoxit has, they go for 1/4 of the price of Deoxit in a can 2x the size, and you can get them anywhere (NAPA, Walmart, Radio Shack, etc.). Here in Canada Deoxit was going for $30 a shot glass, with shipping on top of that. Also Deoxit does leave a residue since it, "Acts as a unique contact cleaner, rejuvenator, conductivity enhancer, and lubricant". It also, "Fills in microscopic gaps and reseals surface for better contact to improve flow of electricity". A lot of this is just BS marketing terms that go with anything audio related, but it does leave behind a bit of lubricant and protectorate which can be beneficial if you have humidity issues in your house. Deoxit uses the same active ingredients (isohexane, & hexane) that all the cheap ones use, but they also add extra stuff. It's not like the cheaper guys are going to use the same cleaning solution and then throw in "plastic dissolver" as well. Where this probably originated from was some guy went to the local hardware store and grabbed a can of contact cleaner meant to clean car battery poles or something else that required very aggressive chemicals (electrical cleaner or brake cleaner). Plastic safe contact cleaners are fine, I find it really funny that every version of the story I have heard mentions a different brand of stereo that used to use a really susceptible plastic that reacts badly to anything but Deoxit. If I wanted to be nasty, I'd say that this rumour was started by Craig Laboratories themselves. Like I said, I don't want to be a dick, but I have yet to find a person post that "they" have had issues with a contact cleaner doing bad things to their receiver. The people saying "don't use no-names" seem to be the people at Head-Fi and Audiokarma who would literally die if they used a product that didn't give a "shout out" to Audiophiles or had a picture of a car on the can. All I'm saying is don't feel the need to wait a week for a can of Deoxit to show up in the mail as the brand in your local store does the exact same thing when it comes to cleaning, and Pioneer/Sansui/Marants/Sony didn't use a special plastic in the 70's that was super easy to melt from contact with contact cleaner, but there were POTs from the 50s that did have cardboard-like components, and even Deoxit will make short work of these as well. Sorry for the spergfest, but I've been hearing this for so long and have never been given anything other than, "I heard", or "this guy".
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Mar 4, 2013 05:09
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Understandable. By the way, I got a 5 oz can of it at Long & McQuade (music store) for something like $22, in Edmonton.
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Mar 4, 2013 05:21
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