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Slavvy posted:Don't get me wrong, I think this is great, but what for? Is your bike so electrically unreliable that you need something like this? It's a 70s Honda, this is probably the early warning system for a failing charging system.
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Feb 16, 2013 20:30
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Sagebrush posted:More "for" my ride than "to" it: Sup 70's bike with treacherous charging system buddy? Cool idea. Does the unit tie into the ignition and shut off when the bike is parked? I wonder if constantly reading the voltage might drain the battery because it maintains a closed circuit through the readout.
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Feb 16, 2013 20:33
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Slavvy posted:Don't get me wrong, I think this is great, but what for? Is your bike so electrically unreliable that you need something like this? Yep. The stock alternator in Honda 350s is weak and only charges the battery above 3000 RPM, and only if the headlamp is off. On low beam you need to be around 4000RPM and with the high beam 5500+, and that's the stock 25/35w incandescent bulb. So, every little load on the electrical system makes a difference. I doubled the power of my taillight early on, and I have since upgraded to an H4 reflector and 35/35 bulb, which already makes me antsy about too much low-speed puttering through traffic at night. Since I have also bought a high-output stator (not yet installed), I'm planning to try out a 45/45 and then if I can swing it a 55/60 cause I looove light. In order to do that, I want to have pretty much constant knowledge of the battery SOC and current R/R output. Also I just like making stuff. e: also as Pham Nuwen says it's a good warning for "if you stop riding, you aren't going to be able to get this thing started" which has happened to me a couple of times already. e2: Tamir Lenk posted:Cool idea. Does the unit tie into the ignition and shut off when the bike is parked? I wonder if constantly reading the voltage might drain the battery because it maintains a closed circuit through the readout. Yeah, I was going to tie it into the wiring from the killswitch, probably, so that you can check the voltage when the switch is on but there's a double safety (kill switch + ignition key) to cut off any drain. The thing only draws 4mA though apparently, and it's easy to tell if it's connected because the display lights up. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 20:33
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Volt meters are useful even on reliable bikes. They can point out potential problems with batteries at regulators before they cause damage etc. Also, you should make two.
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Feb 16, 2013 21:20
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There also useful if you're running your cellphone / GPS / extra lights / heated gear too. It can be tricky to figure out how much juice you're using and how much the bike can put out.
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Feb 16, 2013 21:24
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Bled the coffee out of the lines and topped off with fresh DOT3. 
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Feb 16, 2013 23:21
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Yesterday - changed the oil in the DR350 and rode both of them. Good weather for February in PA (47 degrees F)
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Feb 17, 2013 02:06
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Slavvy posted:Don't get me wrong, I think this is great, but what for? Is your bike so electrically unreliable that you need something like this? Is there a bike in the world that doesn't have potential charging issues? I don't know anybody who hasn't had to at least replace a reg/rec. I had to do it twice already.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:59
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theperminator posted:Is there a bike in the world that doesn't have potential charging issues? I don't know anybody who hasn't had to at least replace a reg/rec. I had to do it twice already. I've owned six bikes and I've never had to do them. Their ages were 87, 89, 93, 98, 02, 03. The only electrical thing I did was that my second bike had it's stator die. Never had a reg/rec issue, nor have I known anyone to have one. Maybe I'm statistically lucky somehow?
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Feb 17, 2013 05:56
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theperminator posted:Is there a bike in the world that doesn't have potential charging issues? I don't know anybody who hasn't had to at least replace a reg/rec. I had to do it twice already. Three Suzukis and a Ninja 600, from the 80s through 02. No charging issues that weren't immediately and permanently solved by replacing the battery.
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Feb 17, 2013 06:42
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Slavvy posted:I've owned six bikes and I've never had to do them. Their ages were 87, 89, 93, 98, 02, 03. The only electrical thing I did was that my second bike had it's stator die. Never had a reg/rec issue, nor have I known anyone to have one. Maybe I'm statistically lucky somehow? Of course swapping the stator is harder than swapping the R/R. The R/R just wires in and bolts somewhere to get some air. The stator has to spin and be oiled/cooled and poo poo. The old Suzukis tend to blow stators because they ran one of the three stator wires up through the headlamp switch, and years of corrosion and long wire run tend to cook the stator. Also the reg or rect (they're separate on the original Suzuki wiring) then can cook off, as they stock unit is poo poo. With an old Suzuki, if the stator lives on, you can bring the charging system into shape by cleaning all the connections, re-routing the stupid stator wire directly to the R/R, and rewiring the grounds to a single point through the R/R. My charging system never conked out on me, but I tightened everything up when I re-wired the bike and made a new harness. I also upgraded to a newer, more robust R/R off a later CBR. Tamir Lenk fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 07:11
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Tamir Lenk posted:Of course swapping the stator is harder than swapping the R/R. The R/R just wires in and bolts somewhere to get some air. The stator has to spin and be oiled/cooled and poo poo.  Stators don't spin. Then they would be rotors
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Feb 17, 2013 07:54
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Sagebrush posted:More "for" my ride than "to" it: I'd take a look at some of those fillet radii and shapes for manufacturability. Stitching in all those little fillets like where the housing meets the clamp is a bit of a pain. Also, throw something on the little bosses that hold the clamp halves together so they can be machined from the same setup as the front of the thing. Looks cool, though. Where are you going to get the little window for the front?
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Feb 17, 2013 08:14
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Yeh, we've got a crapload of tiny, long ball-nose mills so the fillets shouldn't be a serious problem. I made this version explicitly for 3D printing, though, so you really don't want sharp edges to create stress risers -- if I were building a metal one I'd certainly modify the geometry as appropriate. The little window is probably going to be laser-cut acrylic, or CNC out some polycarbonate. The inner bezel around the display is definitely going to be laser-cut black acrylic, because it's easy to etch the "volts" label into the surface. I also have some neoprene gasket material that I'm going to cut to shape and slot in between the sealing surfaces to keep the water out.
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Feb 17, 2013 08:20
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theperminator posted:Is there a bike in the world that doesn't have potential charging issues? I don't know anybody who hasn't had to at least replace a reg/rec. I had to do it twice already. I've owned 4  Italian bikes and I've never had to replace a reg/rec, although I've had to replace batteries a few times.
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Feb 17, 2013 11:38
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Today I polished the fork tubes where stonechips have damaged the chrome, leading to spots of rust which I guess will eventually damage the fork seals, and removed, cleaned and re-lubed my front brake lever. Then took her for a run to blow the cobwebs out because the weekend weather here has either been lovely or I've had things on which mean I haven't been able to ride anywhere near as much as I wanted to this Summer!
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Feb 17, 2013 13:20
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theperminator posted:Is there a bike in the world that doesn't have potential charging issues? I don't know anybody who hasn't had to at least replace a reg/rec. I had to do it twice already. Potential sure but I've gone through a lot of bikes and never had to replace anything more than a battery. This includes the bike that for the past three years is ridden every day, heated gear 1/4 of the year and many mornings below freezing. Some bikes have overbuilt or well designed charging systems and some are known for frying r/r's.
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Feb 17, 2013 14:43
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Today I discovered that plastic coffee cup lids will not hold up to carb cleaner. (I also cleaned the bottom end of the KLR's carb, which did not fix the problem I had with the KLR but may have pointed me in the right direction (throttle cable out of adjustment). I also, unfortunately, need to replace my choke cable.)
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Feb 18, 2013 00:36
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Safety Dance posted:Today I discovered that plastic coffee cup lids will not hold up to carb cleaner. Try styrofoam 
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Feb 18, 2013 00:41
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I think I blew it the gently caress up today at a trackday. Was accelerating WOT (I think, or maybe dropping gears but it wasn't an overrev situation - it's on video) then the rear locked up completely. Trying to start it by dumping the clutch just left the rear locked. Trying to crank it over right after was very slow and a little bit of smoke came from under the gas tank after trying to crank it over. Got it started back in the pits but there is A LOT more engine braking than normal, did a WOT run to redline in first and upon letting off the throttle the bike locked up momentarily again. It's not making the same amount of power either. It idles properly... until it gets hot then it keeps dying. Some rattling from the lower end when you come off the throttle when free revving it. Who knows. I met Evan Steel (cool as fuuuuck) at the track day afterwards and he gave it a couple of revs and pretty much called it a rod / rod bearing issue. A few other guys were thinking valve issue. I guess we'll find out. As a side note, a locked rear at 100mph+ is hilarious after the fact. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 02:37
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BlackMK4 posted:I think I blew it the gently caress up today at a trackday. Sounds like a piston's picked up if it's proportionate to temperature. Condolances.
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Feb 18, 2013 04:46
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BlackMK4 posted:I think I blew it the gently caress up today at a trackday. The fact that you ran it even a little bit after it initially locked up was really dumb. That being said it was probably dead when it first locked. You definitely twisted the knife with restarted it and running it more.
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Feb 18, 2013 05:01
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Slavvy posted:Sounds like a piston's picked up if it's proportionate to temperature. Condolances. Maybe this is just a regional dialect issue, but... what did the piston pick up?
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Feb 18, 2013 16:17
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I read it as as misspelling of packed up
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Feb 18, 2013 17:13
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Sagebrush posted:
My bad. I got the moving parts backwards and am dumb. Nevertheless, excavating the stator is still a messier PITA on my bike than swapping the R/R.
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Feb 18, 2013 17:47
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n8r posted:The fact that you ran it even a little bit after it initially locked up was really dumb. That being said it was probably dead when it first locked. You definitely twisted the knife with restarted it and running it more. It was dead and I'd been pricing my options for a few months now since I figured it was going sooner rather than later. Rebuild isn't in this engines future, a replacement is.
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Feb 18, 2013 20:17
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Zool posted:Maybe this is just a regional dialect issue, but... what did the piston pick up? Geirskogul posted:I read it as as misspelling of packed up 'Picked up' means it half-seized; got so hot and un-lubricated that the bore grabbed around the piston and bad things happened. So when you pull the piston out it'll have massive melty gouges along the side and corresponding bore damage. Basically just means a mostly-seized engine.
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Feb 18, 2013 20:56
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https://vimeo.com/59931372 Don't make fun of my lines though 
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Feb 18, 2013 21:14
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Was waiting for 100mph lockup - video did not deliver.
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Feb 18, 2013 21:29
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n8r posted:Was waiting for 100mph lockup - video did not deliver. It locked after the first downshift until the revs drop to 0 where I pulled the clutch in. The second lockup where it goes sideways was me trying to restart it.
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Feb 18, 2013 21:47
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That was surprisingly less drama than I would've expected for a locked rear wheel at those speeds.
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Feb 18, 2013 22:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:That was surprisingly less drama than I would've expected for a locked rear wheel at those speeds. Yeah, the guy on the white bike was a rider coach. He came up to me after and said he heard a ringing in his ear and couldn't figure out what it was until he realized it was my rear locked up. All in all, I got really lucky that it didn't come out of line Dude on the R1 had a ton of power and I had intended to pass him coming out of that next corner. I'd always thought my bike was down on power but I was easily pulling the other 600s down the straights. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 22:47
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Installed Powerlet heated vests and gloves on my street triple and went for a test ride in ~30 degrees. Kept me completely warm until it killed the bike at a stop light. Was able to start it again after a few minutes, but I think I have to check the voltage now and see what kind of draw these things have. I guess the full power mode on the vests is way too much.
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Feb 18, 2013 23:10
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See if you can get a good deal on the 09+ engines, they have a higher rev limit and more horsepower. You'll need an 09 ECU and possibly the loom too though.
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Feb 19, 2013 01:01
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That's what I'm going to look for. I think you can use the 06-08 ECU/harness/cluster with a few mods - I'll see what I can find since I don't want to spend much more than a grand. As a side note, 09 engines also have some bottom end changes (wristpins known weakpoint...). BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Feb 19, 2013 |
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Feb 19, 2013 02:46
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Ahh right, I hadn't heard that. I'll keep that in mind if I ever need to do the same thing. Not that finding another engine in aus would be an easy task, I'd have to buy a written off bike to get a new engine.
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Feb 19, 2013 03:33
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Sup, spun rod bearing.    Have a 06 GSXR750 on 'loan' to ride in the mean time.
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Feb 19, 2013 05:33
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1: Is that a ladder as a ramp? 2: Why the gently caress do I never strap my ramps to the truck? I've moved motorcycles plenty of times, but for some reason I've been a goddamned moron all along.
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Feb 19, 2013 06:50
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1. Yes, don't do it.  2. So much safer, but I think I negated that by using a goddamn aluminum step ladder.
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Feb 19, 2013 07:06
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Today, printed out (and/or laser cut) the parts for my little voltmeter. They came out beautifully! We only had white modeling material today so it doesn't look quite as cool as it would have in black but I suppose I could always paint it. Works well enough for a test, anyway. Everything basically either slides into place or friction-fits. Now, if only I could find that loving bag of 3mm cap screws I bought specifically for this project, I could actually put it together 
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Feb 19, 2013 07:29
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