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I like that wheel option.
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Feb 18, 2013 19:50
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thetechnoloser posted:Maintenance day. Cleaning/reoiling the air filter. You got the track pack on that bad boy?
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Feb 18, 2013 21:43
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A.o.D. posted:You got the track pack on that bad boy? Nope. It's a 2012 V6 Mustang Club of America package. No track pack.
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Feb 18, 2013 22:15
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Somewhat related since it is about a mod motor. I bought a Lincoln Mark VIII with a good motor for the motor. I need to remove it. The agreed upon method seems to be to drop the engine from the bottom. The front subframe bolts have six "points" on them. Can I use a normal six-point impact socket or do I need something else?
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Feb 19, 2013 05:12
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Just got back from a Seattle-San Francisco round trip with the mustang. It's a totally sweet 2-man road trip car. Burned zero oil but now my tires that were almost gone prior to the trip are toast. Its been a while since I drove a manual... Going 5 hours without touching the clutch pedal is something else. A gold (not champagne) car is an occasionally entertaining ice breaker... Some random dude in the central valley has a gold El Camino. We chatted a bit even though I'm not really a Chevy dude. Anybody successfully cleaned their IAC? Mine seems to hunt for idle a lot...
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Feb 20, 2013 03:31
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clutchpuck posted:Anybody successfully cleaned their IAC? Mine seems to hunt for idle a lot... It's about as simple as it gets. Make sure you get a new gasket because you will tear the old one. If you just want to replace it they run about $120.
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Feb 20, 2013 08:00
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clutchpuck posted:Anybody successfully cleaned their IAC? Mine seems to hunt for idle a lot... Mine stopped working under cold temperatures, so I replaced it entirely and it was very simple. If you really want to practice heel-toe, just drive around with it disconnected for a while.
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Feb 20, 2013 16:28
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I was looking at that, too. I guess some people run a restrictor plate on the IAC to get the revs to drop faster off throttle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEDwJEEBbS0
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Feb 20, 2013 19:14
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ApathyGifted posted:But the noise isn't coming from the tie rod ends? I'm probably wrong about it coming from inside the dust boots on the steering rack too (it's drat hard to pinpoint a high-pitched noise like that), but since it's coming from the direction of the rack itself and not the wheels I think the fix outlined in the TSB would be the way to go (since it's also the cheapest possibility I can think of). I've already ordered new bushings and a tube bracket, along with a torque wrench since I seem to have gotten through life without one so far. Ummm, you know what's inside those dust boots on the steering rack, right?
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Feb 21, 2013 04:57
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I think it starts with "inner" and ends with "tie rod ends". 
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Feb 22, 2013 00:53
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MikeyTsi posted:Ummm, you know what's inside those dust boots on the steering rack, right? Sorry, I hear tie rod ends and think of the other end for some reason. Engineer brain - either be specific or name it something else entirely. I do the same when people say "rods." Don't know if they're talking about connecting rods or push rods. Edit: and the sound of course has stopped completely after I ordered (but have yet to receive) replacement parts anyway. Assumed it was the cheaper and easier (and given the TSB, more common) problem to fix. Either it'll fix it, or I'll be wrong and have to replace some inner tie rod ends. Or the sound will go away long enough to sell it and get a Corvette, after which I'll have a reason to get confused when someone says "rods" to me.
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Feb 22, 2013 01:21
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My Mustang is going in for tie rod end work, alignment, power steering/brake booster fluid, and engine oil tomorrow. I called the shop (a really good, small, independent Ford specialist) to ask about putting re-greaseable tie rod ends on it, and apparently they use Moog serviceable parts as their standard replacements. I take it to them for oil changes, too, so they'll grease them for me. Got new tires Saturday; Nitto Motivo or something, nothing amazing, supposed to last a while though, which is what I am after. I don't really dong around in the 'stang, that's what the Buell is for, so I'll save money by buying "reasonable" tires. Granted, I am comparing them against who-knows-how-old Toyo Proxes 4s that were absolutely roasted in back, but they feel really nice; sharp turn-in and they feel nice and comfortable. With all that, I am pretty much caught up on maintenance. I don't think I've ever been caught up on maintenance with a car. e: washed it, too. It was nasty after schlepping me through the Central Valley last weekend.
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Feb 25, 2013 20:31
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I've been piddlefarting around waffling back and forth about an exhaust set up. Pulled the trigger on a Borla Type S catback. After that, probably a CAI and tune.
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Feb 26, 2013 17:51
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Tide posted:I've been piddlefarting around waffling back and forth about an exhaust set up. Pulled the trigger on a Borla Type S catback. After that, probably a CAI and tune. I went with the Borla Type S axle-backs and I am not disappointed. I had the Roush on before that, and they just sounded too harsh. Really nasty sounding, but not smooth at all. The Type S is super quiet in the cab at idle, and is way more gradual as you go up the rev range.
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Feb 27, 2013 00:45
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Good to hear. It was the closest I could get to the sound I want. Hope it gets here before the weekend so I can spend Friday night doing the install and the weekend tearassing around down Scenic 98. e: Also, managed to score a set of the 5 star 18" rims (with nearly new tires) off a 'base' GT for 500 bucks. WIN! Will come in handy for a set of DRs 
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Feb 27, 2013 17:35
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Got my car back, apparently the technician didn't detect enough run-out to want to replace my tie rod ends... for now they're merely making noise. Less noise now than with the old tires, too. I can live with this.
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Feb 27, 2013 22:01
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Tide posted:e: Also, managed to score a set of the 5 star 18" rims (with nearly new tires) off a 'base' GT for 500 bucks. WIN! Will come in handy for a set of DRs You don't want to use 18" DRs as there's no point.
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Feb 28, 2013 04:21
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How come?
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Feb 28, 2013 18:01
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Probably not enough sidewall height - a big part of why drag radials work so well is the big compliant sidewall.
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Feb 28, 2013 19:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:Probably not enough sidewall height - a big part of why drag radials work so well is the big compliant sidewall. Correctomundo. Anything less than about a 50 series sidewall is just not going to flex enough to make a difference over a decent set of street tires. You can make a drag radial work up to about a 17" wheel, but bigger than that and there's really no point to drag radials unless you just enjoy paying more for tires that last 5k miles.
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Mar 1, 2013 06:26
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frozenphil posted:Correctomundo. Anything less than about a 50 series sidewall is just not going to flex enough to make a difference over a decent set of street tires. You can make a drag radial work up to about a 17" wheel, but bigger than that and there's really no point to drag radials unless you just enjoy paying more for tires that last 5k miles. Depends. If you're talking 100% drag slicks, then yeah, good luck with anything bigger than 16". However, they do make "D.O.T. Legal" slicks up to 20" now. Devyl fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 06:45
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Devyl posted:Depends. If you're talking 100% drag slicks, then yeah, good luck with anything bigger than 16". However, they do make "D.O.T. Legal" slicks up to 20" now. Right, they make em, but they don't offer any appreciable reduction in ETs. I mean, they make stick on hood scoops too, doesn't make em a good idea.
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Mar 1, 2013 07:22
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I guess that's where we have to agree to disagree. I would rather hit the track with a set of M/T ET Street Radials and get consistent hookups and launches; than I would a pair of Goodyear Eagle RS-A's or equivalent run-of-the-mill tire and be sliding all over the place. Sure you're only gonna get around 5,000 miels from them, but they're a LOT better than an average street tire if you don't have the tubs to run slicks.
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Mar 1, 2013 09:08
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He's not saying that they aren't better than a regular all season tire - just that at low sidewall heights, the difference between them and something in the extreme summer performance category like an Ecsta MX becomes less notable.
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Mar 1, 2013 09:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:He's not saying that they aren't better than a regular all season tire - just that at low sidewall heights, the difference between them and something in the extreme summer performance category like an Ecsta MX becomes less notable. Yerp. I saw no difference in 60', 1/8 mile, or 1/4 mile ETs with 45 series sidewall drag radials over a decent pair of 45 series sidewall extreme summer performance tires on 17" wheels. The drag radials went 5k miles before they were shot, the extreme summer performance tires went 30k. The street radials were perfectly fine in the rain and much more stable at speed too; the DRs were loving terrifying if there was moisture of any kind on the road. That softer sidewall on DRs makes them squirm starting around 70mph or so; not as much as a real slick, but it's definitely noticeable. I'm not knocking drag radials, they are loving amazing when specced correctly and used in the situation they are meant for. The problem is that for the other 99% of the time you actually use your car they loving blow. If you have a nice weather weekend toy / "street car" drag car, go for it. If it's your daily driver, I'd put the money into decent street radials instead.
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Mar 1, 2013 09:32
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My mistake. I thought you were talking for track only use. In the "daily driver" case, I agree with you completely. Street slicks are poo poo when it comes to any surface with even a hint of moisture.
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Mar 1, 2013 09:36
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frozenphil posted:the extreme summer performance tires went 30k. Really? 30,0000 miles? That's amazing. I've never seen more than about 8-10k out of a set of extreme performance tires - Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar, Michelin Pilot Sport/Cup, Continental xContact, none of 'em. Maybe my cars are just heavier or have kookier alignment specs. Or maybe it's the burnouts... Nah. Couldn't be.
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Mar 1, 2013 13:38
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The DRs would be used for track time only. I can only imagine they'd be an improvement over the slick as owl poo poo Pirellis that are on it now. May just look into getting a set of slicks.
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Mar 1, 2013 15:28
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Okay maybe you guys could give me some ideas here. My dad has an '03 V6 auto, and the other day he said it was running like poo poo. It had no CELs or anything looking wrong on the dash, so I plugged in a scanner and it had 2 pending, 1 for misfire on startup, and 1 for misfire on cylinder one. I looked under the hood and the first thing I noticed was both rad hoses and rad were at ambient temp, despite the engine being warm, gauge normal, full coolant, and heat blowing hot like normal. I went ahead and did the waterpump and thermostat since they only totaled like $65 bucks, and now coolant flows and hoses get hot etc. I didn't see anything wrong with the old ones, but whatever. Still runs about the same, and still brings back those pending codes after I clear them. With anything more than like cruising throttle, it definitely feels like that cylinder is missing, and a quick stab of the throttle will get a little pop out the exhaust, but no smoke or flame that I can see. Headgaskets seem to be fine so far, no external leaking or mixing coolant and oil, no smoke, and it idles normally and all gauges read fine. The plugs are old as hell so I'll probably replace them anyways just to be safe, but do any of you Mustang guys have any other ideas? e: Checked spark now that it's cooled down some and that seems fine. Yeah they are the original plugs with 90k miles... I bet replacing those tomorrow will take care of it. It was the 4.6 and not the V6 that had the issue with breaking spark plugs, right? Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 00:48
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Do the 6 bangers have the plastic crossover tube on the intake manifold like the v8s did pre-2000? If so, that would be a prime suspect. The intake manifold in general would be a good place to look. Also check out the coils/coil packs/whatever the v6s have.
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Mar 2, 2013 03:47
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Going to see this http://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/3487409217.html 1998 SN95 with the motor from a 2002. Looks really really clean from the pics but you know how craigslist photos can be! Any thoughts on the price? Anything in particular I should be on the look out for besides sagging doors? I went a test drove this 88 today http://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/3650304500.html Looked great but man was it ragged, someone had been driving the poo poo out of that thing for 150k miles
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Mar 2, 2013 07:09
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TylerC 2.0 posted:Going to see this http://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/3487409217.html There's not much to look for, really. Definitely make sure it's a legit 2000+ PI engine. The rear torque boxes were fairly lovely on that gen, but I think the convertibles had the reinforcements from the factory so they should be good. Basically just do a good general used car check over. If it is as advertised that could be a very sweet ride with the lighter SN95 bodystyle and the PI engine's extra power. The convertible's weight will negate the difference somewhat and it for sure is no Coyote in the power department, but it's still a pretty nice cruiser/around town fun car.
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Mar 2, 2013 08:24
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Good call on the coil pack, Phil. Replaced the plugs and wires since it needed them anyways (gently caress number 3!) and that actually seemed to make it worse. Fuel trims weren't really out so I figured it must still be ignition, so I got a new coil pack for $70 and it runs great now and no more codes. I probably didn't see it cutting out or whatever because I was just idling when I tested.
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Mar 3, 2013 01:13
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Lowclock posted:Good call on the coil pack, Phil. Replaced the plugs and wires since it needed them anyways (gently caress number 3!) and that actually seemed to make it worse. Fuel trims weren't really out so I figured it must still be ignition, so I got a new coil pack for $70 and it runs great now and no more codes. I probably didn't see it cutting out or whatever because I was just idling when I tested. Awesome. Mustangs are about the easiest and cheapest car to work on out there and the parts that typically go bad tend to be the easiest to get to and the cheapest to replace.
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Mar 3, 2013 01:39
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frozenphil posted:Awesome. Mustangs are about the easiest and cheapest car to work on out there and the parts that typically go bad tend to be the easiest to get to and the cheapest to replace.
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Mar 3, 2013 02:40
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frozenphil posted:There's not much to look for, really. Definitely make sure it's a legit 2000+ PI engine. The rear torque boxes were fairly lovely on that gen, but I think the convertibles had the reinforcements from the factory so they should be good. Thanks, I pulled the trigger! Face hurts from smiling and body hurts from cold as I refused to put the top up all day!  Just got to get used to all the attention this loud rear end penis car brings!!!
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Mar 3, 2013 02:41
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I like that wheel fitment.
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Mar 3, 2013 03:29
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Lowclock posted:Yeah I think the thermostat for my e34 costs about as much as a waterpump for a Mustang. I think my e34 is easier to work on, but that's probably just because there's a lot less emissions stuff. I had an E36 for awhile and it was a money pit. I replaced the entire coolant system 3 times on the loving thing. Yeah, they're easy to work on which is nice...because you will be. Outside of oil and tires my 2003 GT has only needed an alternator, battery, belt, and plugs in 128k miles. I'm not sure it's even possible to make a production car easier to work on for those common wear items. The E36 did look and handle well, though. It's a decent ride, but I like to drive my cars more than work on them (I know I know). http://i.imgur.com/gTlJmKX.jpg TylerC 2.0 posted:Thanks, I pulled the trigger! Face hurts from smiling and body hurts from cold as I refused to put the top up all day! I bet they'd change the intake connection to the 2000+ style... HP makes a cool system too. frozenphil fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Mar 3, 2013 |
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Mar 3, 2013 06:45
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TylerC 2.0 posted:Thanks, I pulled the trigger! Face hurts from smiling and body hurts from cold as I refused to put the top up all day! I've repeated myself like ten times in this thread, because it's one of very few helpful contributions I can make. That said... you should make sure that the crossover for the intake manifold is aluminum and not plastic. I'm pretty sure they started using aluminum after 2001, so presumably the replacement engine has a replacement intake manifold, but... if it is plastic, be aware that pretty much all of them eventually cracked.
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Mar 3, 2013 08:00
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vote_no posted:I've repeated myself like ten times in this thread, because it's one of very few helpful contributions I can make. That said... you should make sure that the crossover for the intake manifold is aluminum and not plastic. I'm pretty sure they started using aluminum after 2001, so presumably the replacement engine has a replacement intake manifold, but... if it is plastic, be aware that pretty much all of them eventually cracked. Word. If your crossover tube isn't metal like this you might as well go ahead and buy one because you're going to need it. It's better to do it before it causes other issues. http://i.imgur.com/jIuCenN.jpg
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Mar 3, 2013 08:11
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