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Cat Terrist posted:Mate, you just scored the best own goal of all time. I live in a place that has "Mountains" in it's name. A mountain range beats hill, dont you think? Not necessarily. Is your downtown a draped grid over such mountains? When you have a 90 degree turn on top of a 20% grade hill in traffic, you find out that 2nd gear runs out of headroom REALLY quick. Your choices are either stall or shift into 1st. My 2011 isn't quite as bad at this, but holy hell is the 2002 bad. It doesn't help that 2nd is as tall as Everest.
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Feb 20, 2013 02:38
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Perhaps in the midst of all this first gear chat someone can answer me this. When cold, say 5 C and less, I have a terrible time getting my 08 LGT out of first gear. Goes in fine at a stop, goes in fine at speed when warm. Just hates coming out of gear when cold. It also wants to be double clutched to get into second when cold. Dragging clutch?
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Feb 20, 2013 04:08
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Terminus Est posted:Perhaps in the midst of all this first gear chat someone can answer me this. When cold, say 5 C and less, I have a terrible time getting my 08 LGT out of first gear. Goes in fine at a stop, goes in fine at speed when warm. Just hates coming out of gear when cold. It also wants to be double clutched to get into second when cold. Dragging clutch?
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Feb 20, 2013 04:15
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nm posted:My transmission hated the cold when I lived in Minneapolis. It got a bit better with extra-S. Did the same thing when I had extra-s in it. That got dumped when all the bearings were replaced under warranty last spring. Need to stop being lazy, I still have 5 liters in my basement. 
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Feb 20, 2013 04:21
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bull3964 posted:Not necessarily. Is your downtown a draped grid over such mountains? It's the main route across said mountains and snarls up with regularity. The only time I drop back to first when rolling is towing 2 ton worth of car and rally gear and that's the kind of climb the Forester XT would burn 50 litres per 100 kms while doing that, ie it's steep and continuous. quote:When you have a 90 degree turn on top of a 20% grade hill in traffic, you find out that 2nd gear runs out of headroom REALLY quick. I can one up that easily but the point's been made. You just do not have to drop back to first in all but extremes - and slow traffic even in mountain is no real problem in second.
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Feb 20, 2013 04:38
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Cat Terrist posted:
Well you tell that to my car when its bucking and shuddering and about ready to quit.
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Feb 20, 2013 04:59
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Cat Terrist posted:So why arent you using the clutch to slip a little bit, you can use it in traffic. And dont tell me it'll wear out faster, that's not necessarily true at all. Our cars can handle that kind of shuffling along without undue wear and tear. Plus, a clutch is a lot cheaper than a gearbox. As much as I would love to slip 2nd for 45 minutes straight during my commute... no. I'll just keep rev matching 1st, I must be the only person with an older wrx that doesn't have syncro issues. 125k miles and still easy changes.
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Feb 20, 2013 07:30
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Cat Terrist posted:It's the main route across said mountains and snarls up with regularity. The only time I drop back to first when rolling is towing 2 ton worth of car and rally gear and that's the kind of climb the Forester XT would burn 50 litres per 100 kms while doing that, ie it's steep and continuous.
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Feb 20, 2013 13:33
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Terminus Est posted:Did the same thing when I had extra-s in it. That got dumped when all the bearings were replaced under warranty last spring. Need to stop being lazy, I still have 5 liters in my basement. Extra S definitely makes a big difference, unfortunately last time I did fluids in my 08, didn't have any on-hand so I had to go with an alternate which isn't quite as good. Having said that, on REALLY cold days, yeah, it'll still be tough in 1st and 2nd. just be slow/patient the first few minutes and you'll be good.
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Feb 20, 2013 15:03
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Wrar posted:When was the last time you drove an EJ205? You can get away with a lot of poo poo with a 2.5 that the 2.0 simply won't do down low. My non-turbo 2.5 loves taking off from second at stop lights/signs.  After 50km/h my envy of the turbo begins.
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Feb 20, 2013 16:12
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Anyone who says going up hill in a 02-05 WRX in 2nd clearly hasn't done it. After seeing the posts today I tried doing a small hill and the car HATED it. There just isn't enough power in the low compression EJ205.
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Feb 20, 2013 16:30
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Cat Terrist posted:If someone is seriously saying to reduce understeer by increasing front bar, smash them in the face with a cricket bat. They have zero clue and / or been sucked into that camber curves bullshit. Even if the camber curves nonsense is slightly true, what you have done is reduce front end grip and in fact increased understeer. Wrong idea -and frsnkly if there is a problem, why not fix the issue rather than a badly thought out bandaid? Thanks. I should have clarified in my post that eliminating roll is my primary intention. Reducing understeer would be a possible bonus. I'm guessing I should start with a 22 rear and see how it goes. I haven't tracked it yet but that will happen in the next couple of months, so I'll have a better idea of what I'd like to change.
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Feb 20, 2013 19:57
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Why would reducing roll be a motivator? Isn't the goal to have better cornering?
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Feb 20, 2013 19:58
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Reducing roll does give you better cornering because the having the tread surface flatter with respect to the ground creates more grip, plus a stiffer car responds more quickly. What's interesting is that even at crazy numbers like -10 degrees of camber a tire creates more lateral force than it does flat. At positive camber angles there is much less grip. And with these cars, even getting the outer tires to remain vertical is a challenge. A stock sti, cornering at 1g, will see about 4 degrees of body roll, and will be lucky to gain much more than one degree back due to caster and the compression of the suspension. So just to keep the tread flat you would want around -3 degrees of static camber, plus there is the tire itself to think of, which will flex and also wants to be leaned inward a bit. To get the maximum possible cornering grip out of a stock STI you would need to have something like -5 degrees of camber, which is just not practical. And that's why I like swaybars. As for your car blk, I'd definitely recommend a 22mm adjustable rear bar. It goes very well with a 20mm stock front on the soft setting, and very well with a 22mm front on the hard setting. For your average fun to drive Subaru, 22mm bars, a little more spring (such as stock sti rates), and a good alignment are almost all you need (and good shocks don't hurt). If you're tracking the car, my suggestions do change a little. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Feb 20, 2013 |
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Feb 20, 2013 20:23
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jamal posted:
Thanks - is there a recommended manufacturer/vendor?
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Feb 20, 2013 20:33
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jamal posted:If you're tracking the car, my suggestions do change a little. You're such a tease. 
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Feb 20, 2013 20:40
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Well for the most part a track car just ends up needing to be stiffer, and the starting point depends on the tires you're using. blk posted:Thanks - is there a recommended manufacturer/vendor? Yes, whiteline/pm me.
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Feb 20, 2013 22:09
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Wrar posted:When was the last time you drove an EJ205? You can get away with a lot of poo poo with a 2.5 that the 2.0 simply won't do down low. Yesterday. Actually no wait, today. My DD has become the old Forester with 300,000 km on it and that's not exactly the most powerful car to start with. quote:Thanks. I should have clarified in my post that eliminating roll is my primary intention. Reducing understeer would be a possible bonus. I'm guessing I should start with a 22 rear and see how it goes. I haven't tracked it yet but that will happen in the next couple of months, so I'll have a better idea of what I'd like to change. And now Jamal and I will being to argue. I'm sorry, but WHY are you aiming to reduce roll? These cars arent bad and the absolute fastest cars here have stock bars - or NO bars at all. They are all more compliant than the nonsense you see at autocross and track in the USA. Jamal has this wrong because a stiff Subaru is one that doesnt work as well as one set softer - that what you do with AWD, you do not set them up rigid. You actually want the car to have more ability to weight transfer because a car that isnt putting it's weight on the wheels you want to work isnt one that is going to use it's geometry. Dont start by getting it backwards - make you car move around on it's suspension, you get a gently caress load more out of it. The weight shift has quite an effect, where the amount of work you can be making the front do is quite a deal higher than soft in. The only reason why I'm lookign to put stiffer springs in - and yes THIS is how you control the body of the car, NOT swaybars - and sway bars are NOT for controlling the geometry, we are not driving MkII Escorts or RX2's where the suspension geometry is pathetic - is I'm ripping the inside wheels off the deck. But even then, what I'm going to use will allow the car to move as it should. If the front end aint gripping, you aint turning. If you aint got weight on the front, you aint gripping. The importance in a Subaru chassis goes like this - diffs, then weight shift then tyres then springs / shocks and a long way back is roll bars. You cant do much about diffs to begin with so work with how the car moves.
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Feb 20, 2013 22:42
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I had a 0 traction event while turning after being sent home for inclement weather..... bent my control arm on a snow covered curb check. Couldn't even throttle out of the slip.  Hey wheel, you don't go that far back. 
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Feb 20, 2013 22:53
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Dear Jamal and CT. Don't stop ever. I'm doing a test and tune with my new suspension in two weekends, I will try with both front swaybar attached, and front swaybar disconnected and see what I like more, granted this will be on dirt.
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Feb 20, 2013 23:50
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I just sold my jeep cherokee and bought a 2003 Subaru forester, I love the vehicle, it has 174k miles on it, and has had a new motor installed, But its still very solid of a vehicle. I want to do some modifications to it, to make it handle better, but i'm not sure if i should put the Swift lowering springs on it, or if i should leave it stock height, put aggressive tires on it, roof rack, rally lights, and go for that look, since theres still alot of dirt roads in my area of WV, Is it possible to build an offroad style forester/impreza and have it handle well at stock height?
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Feb 21, 2013 00:38
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm doing a test and tune with my new suspension in two weekends, I will try with both front swaybar attached, and front swaybar disconnected and see what I like more, granted this will be on dirt. I know which one is faster  wether you prefer it or not is up to you. Most really dont like the feel that small or no bars give - the car feels looser and not as stable. But I guarenttee no front bar / small rear is faster.
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Feb 21, 2013 00:45
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Cat Terrist posted:I know which one is faster If there is any proof to this, look at all the Jeeps that have sway bar disconnects for when they leave paved road  I love these talks between the suspension gurus of SA. Edit:\/\/\/\/ it was a joke Sockington fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Feb 21, 2013 |
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Feb 21, 2013 02:11
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Sockington posted:If there is any proof to this, look at all the Jeeps that have sway bar disconnects for when they leave paved road In that specific case, rock crawling is a little different from rally
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Feb 21, 2013 03:36
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Sockington posted:
It's like watching Superman / Bizzaro superman.
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Feb 21, 2013 04:42
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Amandyke posted:In that specific case, rock crawling is a little different from rally However some of the basic ideas behind the sway bar disconnects surprisingly are the same. RANT TIME Okay, you guys know how much I love Subarus. There were FIVE at my place last night. A GC, three GD's and a Forester. I love these cars too much to be hoenst but eh, whatever. Better than drugs, right? And I have every intention of more. I am at the swing point of the red WRX's massive rebuild, ie where I start puttign things back on. When it's finished it will basically be new and very quick - and I have every intention of smacking a few wankers around, esp now I found out I'm the "unoffical" (published results show nothing faster) holder of the fastest stock WRX at two tracks. I cant do better so time to go for it. It's going to get every bit I can think of to go hard around corners and some added power and brakes and I'm about 6 months away from startign that process. No problem so far, right? My budget? 20K will do it so I have to save hard. No problem, right? OH yes there is. Monday I got what the Americans would know is a G8 or to me a Holden Commodore VE SS-V. It's big, it's the tow car. It's got 370ish hp and huge torque from a L98 6 litre. 6 speed manual, leather interior, Holden IQ centre console etc etc etc plus what looks liek to be FE3 handling pack. Not a car I particularly wanted, more a car I needed - big, powerful, can tow a priest of a choir boy, good enough that I dotn mind driving it, which was the other Holden I use problem - loving autos suck and it's no corner carver. So anyway arranged my finances and now I have a Poison Ivy bogan done good mobile. Except it turns out the VE Commodore is quite a deal better than I thought. It's actually a car I want to drive and all that power is intoxicating. It might weigh a bit but it goes. The quad pipe burble at full rpm is sexy. And it turns out with the TC off, the chassis is more than good enough as a quick sprint revealed. So that's no problem, right? As this car is better than I thought it would be and being like I am, I check prices to fix a few issues I think it would have for a track day. Big brakes being the first thing, the stock brakes arent much chop. Then a extractor 4 into two balanced then 4 exhaust. A proper cold air intake and a tune. Fiddle the suspension to get more what I want. I check what this will get me - about another 50Kw (!), massive brakes that barely fit under 19" wheels and quite good handling, all for the price of 5 grand total. And at this poitn, when I look up the same parts and same mods what they would cost, I throw a poo poo fit because for some utterly godknows reason it turns out getting a loving tow car to be a track day weapon is HALF THE loving COST, part for part that a Subaru is. What the loving gently caress is going on here? Are you telling me a bogan mobile that has only really local support, where we habitually pay high prices for local items, is cheaper than a world wide supported car with after market manufacturing all over the world? A Brembo setup WITH wheels and tyres you can get for 2000AUD. I was gobsmacked at that price, I cant even think about just the brakes on the WRX at that price and new AP's are 3500AUD for the front only. gently caress, D2 is 1800AUD front and you still dotn have the bits to bolt em on. And the Brembos for the Commodore are known to be track capable. This is absolute bullshit. I should not be looking at the Commodore and seeing it cost dramatically less to do anything with, yet got a Subaru? You get rear end hosed. It should be the other way round, so few people want to track spec a Commodore and there's a rash of Subarus, doesnt it stand to reason the more plentiful parts for Subarus would lead to lower prices? Now that's apart from the fact the big Commodore will take 500 hp and the engine isnt sweating. Sure, big 6 litre. Turbo 2.5 litre isnt goign to give you that kind of power easily but the prices to get to a level that can keep up? Ugh. The EVO to do the same? One of my mates did it pretty much for 100 bucks and most of what he did was home built, cheap and open. No, not turning the Commodore to a race car. But drat it, seeing the price differences for similar quality is just utter bullshit
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Feb 21, 2013 04:51
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Cat Terrist posted:However some of the basic ideas behind the sway bar disconnects surprisingly are the same.
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Feb 21, 2013 04:56
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nm posted:I'd say welcome to Subarus, but you've been doing this for a while. Subaru is hilariously expensive for basically everything. Yeah, there is a whole different attitude to Subarus and even there's the fact there's not anywhere near the car hacker community around them like say EVO's or Commodores. It's mainly workshop and IT'S A SECRET rather than open and hence cheaper. I can name a bunch of free or cheap drat good things to do to a EVO off the top of my head.... I can only come up with two or three good free/cheap mods for a Subaru. And one of them is the castor mod. Dont get me wrong with me going off about weight transfer, I have a list of aligment data / angles, sway bar rates, suspension rates, tyre data and temperatures that I use for working out what I should run (I honestly dont trust what I see online when it comes to Subarus mostly..... I do actually consider what Jamal says on suspenions and I *do* test it the idea before saying what I've found) and a whole bunch of other data from all parts of the car...... but when I want to do something, it's not like there's a bunch of "yeah, here's a cheap mod that works, go for it dude" it's "WORKSHOP WORKSHOP" or some idiot with more stickers on their car than mods. And too often you see what's said flat out contradict reality. The EVO guys seem to have that poo poo worked out well and you generally get good working advice. Wow, you get some hosed up poo poo said about Subarus and it's expensive to boot. And there's a lot of flat out loving jerks (like a bunch of Autotech cheerleaders) who poo poo on other workshops while their own .... have a lot of cars that for some reason detonate engines. Or their own car explodes. At least my car suffered from a Subaru fault on it's engine detonation TBH, this thread, Slow is Fast and Daslog's threads come up with more good info than the entire of NASIOC. And yes, even if I argue, I'm more often than not trying to poke holes to see if the idea is good (and adopt it if it makes sense and works against a stop watch), rather than being an outright prick, I'm a blunt oval office rather than rear end in a top hat. I would like to think if I know, I'm happy to help. But man there are some outright complete loving lying money grabbing assholes out there. And a lot of irrational attachments to a tuner or workshop with kiddies pissing on anyone who dares to say something favorable about someone else. Subarus are great. Holy poo poo tho there's is some irrational douchebaggery attached to too many of their owners tho.
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Feb 21, 2013 06:07
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It seems that SomethingAwful wins again, just like always.
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Feb 21, 2013 06:19
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We should probably figure out the details of importing stuff to you from here. We have this: http://www.essexparts.com/shop/complete-brake-systems/competition-brake-systems/essex-competition-brake-system-subaru-wrx-sti.html Although I need to setup an account with essex. Anyhow, here is what a stock subaru looks like when you try to corner hard:    Look closely at those outer front tires. That is nowhere NEAR getting all the available grip out of them, and you can't make up for that with just an alignment or a set of stiffer sti springs. The difference in grip between a tire that is cornering properly on the tread vs one using the outer sidewall is on the order of 10-15% which is way more than you could ever lose by having springs and swaybars that are a little stiffer than they need to be. So really, that's what's most important, and just throwing on a big set of bars can get you pretty far towards getting the most out of a set of tires. The real benefit of the bar is that it's effect on roll is much greater than the effect on wheel rate. So you get to run a softer spring and have a more compliant suspension while keeping the tire tread in good alignment with the ground. However, I've never said to go out and just slap on a set of huge swaybars, and I'm also not just regurgitating some bullshit off nasioc or whiteline's brochures. This is what I've been doing for a living for years now. At one shop I worked for all we did was chassis setup and suspension tuning. That meant being at the track with notebooks, tools, and alignment gear almost every weekend, working with multiple cars at a time. The last time attack car I worked on full time had a very good data aq system that even included suspension position data, and over two years later there's still nothing out there faster (and it has huge swaybars). So the amount of testing I've done and data acquired is huge compared to your average track day guy who at best gets out a dozen times a year. Long story short, we've found that a swaybar upgrade on a Subaru will bring laptimes down. It's a heavy sedan and just springs won't get you where you need to be. The real problem though is that a lot more than the spring and swaybar are compressing with corning load. Every suspension bushing, the subframe mounts, and the top mounts are also flexing, and that is just making things worse. So if you solidly mount the rear subframe and put spherical bearings everywhere, you don't need as much suspension stiffness plus the dampers work more effectively. If you're not willing to do that, you need to overcompensate with more spring, bar, and alignment that is theoretically needed. Group N or poly bushings certainly help though. Wait, what are we arguing about? jamal fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Feb 21, 2013 |
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Feb 21, 2013 06:39
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My RS is going in for an alignment on Friday. I intend to both rally-cross this and drive it on roads. Is the alignment that Cat Terrist suggested going to destroy my tires on the road? If yes is there a compromise alignment spec?
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Feb 21, 2013 16:17
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Anyone have an opinion on exhaust hangers? I need new ones for my 03 Legacy, preferably something more firm than stock.
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Feb 21, 2013 19:09
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Has anyone run in to some high-pitched "whistling" sounds from the engine area on cold starts and running while the engine is cold? I get them consistently at 1.9, 2.4, and 2.9k rpm. Speed doesn't determine the sound. I've had some work done at the dealer in the past few months, including a new head gasket. The sound started (coincidentally?) not too long after that, and has remained consistent. Edit: It's an '06 OB base model.
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Feb 21, 2013 19:42
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I don't get a whistle, but at idle I get this VERY harmonic hum. It's louder than the engine, and it seems to come from the intake. here's a video I found of a similar thing. Sounds just like it (that background buzz/hum that sounds like your speakers are broken) but much louder than the video. 1997 Outback Legacy 2.5
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Feb 21, 2013 19:56
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I get a whine/hum above 4.5k under load, sounds almost like a turbo but it doesn't change with engine RPM. It's either on or off. Has to be injectors, right?
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Feb 22, 2013 01:28
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PabloBOOM posted:My 2007 finally threw its first CEL at about 120k the other month. Not surprisingly it's the P0456 (EVAP system leak) with the P0420 (Cat below threshold). Some googling tells me I am not alone. When it first happened back in November, it would reset itself periodically and go away for days at a time, but it's been constant for the last couple weeks now. Is it a PZEV model? You probably have something similar to my Mazda, I don't remember exactly but it had to do with the purge system of the evaporative emissions equipment.
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Feb 22, 2013 12:06
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Sudo Echo posted:I get a whine/hum above 4.5k under load, sounds almost like a turbo but it doesn't change with engine RPM. It's either on or off. Has to be injectors, right? Is it in front of you, below you or behind you? I've noticed a bunch of whining and humming coming from my cars drivetrain and it's fairly normal I'm told. You also get a whine at like 60-65 MPH from the rear diff.
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Feb 22, 2013 12:34
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Yakattak posted:Is it in front of you, below you or behind you? I've noticed a bunch of whining and humming coming from my cars drivetrain and it's fairly normal I'm told. You also get a whine at like 60-65 MPH from the rear diff. It's from the front and its definitely the engine, doesn't matter how fast I'm going just the engine rpms.
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Feb 22, 2013 23:12
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Bought a 96 Legacy GT 2.5L today, on the way home after buying from private seller it overheated/stalled. Radiator was bone dry. When i bought it I only checked the reservoir which was full. I filled it up, burped it, idled 15 minutes, repeat. Took a couple cycles but it no longer overheats and the heater works properly now too, had a mechanic friend check it out and he said he didn't see any mechanical problems but said the oil was scorched. Said to throw in a quart for now and I'll get the oil changed asap. Cooling system seems fine now. No water in the oil/oil in the coolant, engine sounds good still..is there anything I need to look out for? hope i dodged a bullet. and yeah I'll keep an eye out for any steam/coolant leaks. also I know it was my fault not checking the radiator itself, been in such a rush to get a new car that I just looked at the reservoir and assumed it was fine. Mechanic friend did say everything else looks good, and thinks I'll be OK now.
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Feb 25, 2013 07:49
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Head gasket replacement thread incoming.
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Feb 25, 2013 09:52
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