|
Mr. Wiggles posted:By the way, got to where I wanted the gravity, and I've got the fermenter in the back fridge now. The temperature in there is about 30F, so what, maybe 1-2 days for the whole 5 gallons? I've never really done this cold crashing thing before because normally I like my beer cloudy. Yeah, a couple days is usually what I do. I've done more sometimes when I did not get around to packaging right away and it's fine. A single day is probably not going to give you full effect, but I don't have any numbers or anything to back up my feeling on that.
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 05:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 14:23 |
|
|
LeeMajors posted:I'm about to purchase a dudadiesel plate chiller, and I've been sort of working through pickup points in my keggle to decide a few things. I had a lot of troubles with my duda plate chiller. It clogged up all the time with hop gunk and break material. To avoid this, I used a paint strainer bag for the hops, and then I got much less hop character in my beers. To get hop character back, I went back to dumping hops straight into the boil, and the plate chiller clogged again. I also never really felt like I got it clean no matter how much I flushed it out - I would find more gunk in it before the next brewday - until I soaked it in Oxiclean and TSP, and then the mounting lugs on the back rusted. I gave up and went back to an immersion chiller. By recirculating the wort to create a whirlpool, I'm getting chill times as good as I had hoped to get with the plate chiller. I should point out that my experience seems to be atypical and a lot of people really like plate chillers, but I could never get mine to work the way I wanted it to.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 05:36
|
|
|
ZIGfried posted:My question revolves around the "tapped when ready" part of your post and I'm starting to realize there is no right answer for this. I was reading stories of people racking to their keg, putting it in their keezer attached to the co2 and enjoying their beer by the end of the week. This seems odd to me because in my (limited) experience my beer just gets better and better the longer it sits at room temp. This depends a LOT on the beer. Ordinary Bitter? No question you can have it in your glass ten to fourteen days after brewday. Hefeweizens are really excellent fresh and seem to hit their peak just a few weeks after packaging. RIS, on the other hand? One of the best beers I ever had in my life was 4 years old when I poured it. Another RIS was maybe 18 months old when the keg kicked, and I drat near cried.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 05:41
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:Yeah, a couple days is usually what I do. I've done more sometimes when I did not get around to packaging right away and it's fine. A single day is probably not going to give you full effect, but I don't have any numbers or anything to back up my feeling on that. Well, we'll find out. I bottled tonight since it's supposed to be down in the teens later.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 06:16
|
|
|
I am making my first mead in a 1 gallon batch and should be racking it. Because of the fruit in it and extra space left for foaming, I'm worried that this will cause a very large empty space. Will this cause a issue? Is there anything I can add so that I can still get a full batch?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 08:19
|
|
|
From what I remember of the Brew Strong podcast on haze control, the effectiveness of cold conditioning varies strongly with how closely you can approach the freezing point. Days at one temperature working as well as weeks at five degrees higher, and so on.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 08:21
|
|
|
sonofsunaj posted:I am making my first mead in a 1 gallon batch and should be racking it. Because of the fruit in it and extra space left for foaming, I'm worried that this will cause a very large empty space. I've heard of people using glass marbles to fill out headspace for secondary.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 14:09
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:I had a lot of troubles with my duda plate chiller. Yeah, after a bit of research in other applications (dairy, biodiesel), it seems there are no options for cleaning that don't add hours to brew day. They generally involve soaking in hot caustic or acid wash for hours, back flushing multiple times, or baking for hours. They are especially prone to organic buildup and mineral deposits. My motivation was to shorten brew day, not lengthen it. I've decided to spend the extra money on other things and rig up a kickass whirlpool through my immersion chiller w recirculating ice water.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 15:09
|
|
|
sonofsunaj posted:I am making my first mead in a 1 gallon batch and should be racking it. Because of the fruit in it and extra space left for foaming, I'm worried that this will cause a very large empty space. Yup marbles will fill your head space, and yes after you rack off your fruit and sediment you will have a ton of head space (speaking from experience). If you meant in terms of potable liquid. A solution of apple (Or if you can use the type of juice form the fruit your using (cranberry or orange or whatever)) juice, water, and honey equal to the current gravity.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 15:23
|
|
|
This got buried on the last page, anyone have an answer?Mikey Purp posted:This could possibly be a retarded question, but here goes!
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 17:14
|
|
|
For the manifold, you could definitely swap the barb and the brass plug in the other end to turn the thing around. I'd test thoroughly to be sure you did not have any leaks afterward. For the regulator, my limited understanding is that the ports on opposite sides of the body have the same pressure. So, while the regulator you linked does not have a high-pressure dial, it would go where the plug is opposite the inlet (on the left, in that picture). This means that you might be able to swap the low-pressure dial and the valve assembly, effectively "turning over" your regulator. But I am no regulator guru, so I would check with someone more knowledgeable before I started tearing it apart, and again I would check thoroughly for leaks when it was all done. The manifold is definitely the lower-risk option. Dumping high-pressure CO2 into your kegs suddenly is going to create a big mess in a big hurry, and you could get very badly hurt in the process, not to mention the risk of property damage.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 17:28
|
|
|
I'm thinking about my next DIY homebrew related project and I think I want to build a recirculating rig for my boil kettle to cut down on cooling time. Are there any options out there for high temp pumps that will work for this that are <$100?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 17:57
|
|
|
Probably not by the time you include shipping, but this one is $99: http://www.chuggerpumps.com/product.php?prodid=196 I have the stainless-head version of this, and I like it a lot. My March pump has the polysulphone head, and it also works just fine. These pumps are NOT self-priming, so you will need to plan for some mechanism for purging air from the pump head.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:26
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:Probably not by the time you include shipping, but this one is $99: Is there a marked difference between that and the march pump?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:30
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:Is there a marked difference between that and the march pump? I have not tested side by side, but Chugger claims that they have improved the design of the pump head and that they use a slightly higher-HP motor (1/20 vs. 1/25, IIRC) to improve flow rate and head. Because I have the March motor set up the way I want it, I am currently using the Chugger head on the March motor and it works just fine. I do think the March head has a slightly higher quality of workmanship on it, but the Chugger head is not bad or unusable by any means.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:38
|
|
|
Whodat Smith-Jones posted:Anyone have experience using ginger and coriander seed in a pale ale? I was thinking of using them in this recipe in a few weeks: Coriander is typically added at flameout, otherwise it will just boil off. With ginger I've actually found it's best to add it as a "dry hop" type addition. Chop up a couple ounces and throw it in for a week at the end of primary while it's conditioning and that will give a pronounced ginger character.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:39
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:I have not tested side by side, but Chugger claims that they have improved the design of the pump head and that they use a slightly higher-HP motor (1/20 vs. 1/25, IIRC) to improve flow rate and head. Because I have the March motor set up the way I want it, I am currently using the Chugger head on the March motor and it works just fine. I'm in the market. Imminently, actually. I'm mostly of the opinion that I should bite the bullet and pay more for the pump w the reputation, but that chugger looks nice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:40
|
|
|
Docjowles posted:Coriander is typically added at flameout, otherwise it will just boil off. With ginger I've actually found it's best to add it as a "dry hop" type addition. Chop up a couple ounces and throw it in for a week at the end of primary while it's conditioning and that will give a pronounced ginger character. I brew with ginger a lot and this is right on. Adding even a little amount to the early boil is going to turn whatever beer your drinking into a single-note ginger beer, and probably not in the way you want (all of the heat but none of the character). Dryhopping with it keeps all of the sweetness and the spice up front and let's the beer behind it come through, instead of the other way around.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:44
|
|
|
They're both good options. Of course the March is the canonical homebrew pump, and you won't lose by going that route. The Chugger costs less and so far it has treated me very nicely. It's only my opinion, but I think March is resting on its laurels a bit and Chugger has found a way to compete on price. I think we, as homebrewers, win.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:47
|
|
|
If I'm understanding your question correctly, this guy said he had to flip around all of the regulators in his build. He says it was a bitch to do, but it seems to have worked just fine. Why on Earth you'd need an individual regulator for that many kegs is beyond me, but hey, if you've got the money...
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:47
|
|
|
I have a question about storing yeast starters. My buddy and I have 2 kits ready to brew, a chocolate milk stout with an OG of 1.051 and a tripel with an OG 1.076. We have Wyeast #1332 Northwest Ale smack pack for the stout and Wyeast #3787 Trappist high gravity smack pack for the tripel. We want to try to brew both of these in the same day but we only have 1 flask and 1 stir plate to make a starter. Can we start one of the starters and then store the decanted yeast slurry in the fridge while we clean the flask out and start up the other starter before our brew day (March 3rd)?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
lazerwolf posted:Can we start one of the starters and then store the decanted yeast slurry in the fridge while we clean the flask out and start up the other starter before our brew day (March 3rd)? Two possibly easier solutions: 1) You probably don't need a starter for the milk stout with that yeast and that OG, so just direct pitch and save your flask for the Tripel. 2) Use a non-flask container for the second starter. I've used everything from decanters to growlers and everything always turns out fine. But to answer your actual question, yes you can just do that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 18:58
|
|
|
sonofsunaj posted:I am making my first mead in a 1 gallon batch and should be racking it. Because of the fruit in it and extra space left for foaming, I'm worried that this will cause a very large empty space. If you're worried about oxidation from a large headspace then you can add potassium metabisulfite to stabilize it. Marbles work but it takes a lot more than you would think and you should only use the clear glass type without any kind shimmering coatings. Adding more liquid does have a risk of infection unless you boil or sulfite it first. It's also going to change the end result by either making it higher ABV if the yeast are still active, or sweeter if they aren't.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 19:38
|
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:If you're worried about oxidation from a large headspace then you can add potassium metabisulfite to stabilize it. Marbles work but it takes a lot more than you would think and you should only use the clear glass type without any kind shimmering coatings. Adding more liquid does have a risk of infection unless you boil or sulfite it first. It's also going to change the end result by either making it higher ABV if the yeast are still active, or sweeter if they aren't. Just don't stabilize it if you just racking off the fruit while its still fermenting or else your yeast may go hibernate and/or become very stressed out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 21:55
|
|
|
Keezer build complete! Before:   After   It looks really dusty because I painted it with chalkboard paint and didn't clean it well yet  . Also, sorry that my camera is so awful.Parts I really lucked out with a lot of my finds for parts for this by relentlessly scouring Craigslist. I originally wanted to modify a mini fridge, but it was basically impossible to find an appropriate fridge. Every fridge was either way too small to accommodate 2 kegs or had a freezer portion with coolant lines running through it, making it impossible to work with. So I opted for a chest freezer. Unfortunately, I quickly found that chest freezers are in much higher demand, and I was constantly getting sniped off of Craigslist. I swear there were 3 or 4 listings for perfect freezers at great prices that were gone in less than half an hour after posting. So I set up a Craigslist alert, and after a couple weeks spotted a listing for a $60 chest freezer with no pictures and no model information. I figured gently caress it, at that price I'll take anything, and claimed it immediately, sight unseen. Picking up the freezer was interesting. I was greeted at the door by a morbidly obese middle-aged woman. Inside her house, I saw stacks and stacks of old papers, random furniture, and fish tanks, which I later discovered were full of snakes. She had several dogs that she clearly let tear up her house: the carpet was in shambles and much of the wallpaper was ripped up. She led me to the plugged in chest freezer. It was a horribly stained, off yellow catastrophe. She explained to me that this was her "candy freezer," and sure enough, when I opened the lid I was greeted by piles of old tootsie rolls, popsicles, candy wrappers, and for some reason, loose prunes. But hey, they were frozen to the bottom, so the unit clearly worked! I handed her my $60 and got out there as quickly as possible. I got home and set to cleaning it out. I let it air out and melt the ice outside for a few hours, then dumped it out and soaped and hosed it for awhile. Then I used a whole can of disinfectant Lysol spray scrubbing the inside and outside. The inside cleaned up just fine, but the outside was so gunked up, beaten, and scuffed that I knew I'd have to repaint it. Around this time I had also noticed an ad for a completely assembled kegerator for something like $650. It was over a month old, and I thought it was a little strange it hadn't been taken down. On a hunch I decided to contact the seller, and he told me that he ended up parting it out and all he had left was a couple of ball lock kegs. I asked him what he wanted for them, and he said $25 apiece. I couldn't type "YES! WHERE DO YOU LIVE?" fast enough. I later picked up a 20 lb. CO2 tank for $60, and a long time ago I bought a Johnson temperature controller off a lowball offer on SA-Mart for $25. The wood for the collar was fairly cheap "white board" 1x3's from Home Depot. Per advice from this thread, I got the folks at Home Depot to cut it on the spot, free of charge. At first, I settled on plain black appliance paint, but after some searching, I found that Home Depot sold chalkboard spray paint for the exact same price! Done! The Build After cleaning the outside, I got the fridge ready for painting. I went ahead and took off the hinges, which were held on by 8 screws. In the Northern Brewer video they tell you to be careful when removing the hinge screws, as the hinge will spring while you're trying to unscrew it with a lot of force. They recommended having a friend hold the hinge while you unscrew this, but I have no friends so I just duct taped it to the fridge, removed all the screws, and then removed the tape. Per some instructions online, I roughed up the existing paint surface with course sandpaper and steel wool. From some estimates online, I figured it would take about 3 cans of spray paint to do a few coats. I've never spray painted anything before, but figured it couldn't be too tough. I didn't bother taping off the seals or anything, because they were pretty ugly to start, so I didn't mind if they ended up black. I did a full coat, waited an hour, did another coat, waited one more hour, and did a final coat. One thing I'll say is that it was tricky to get a really smooth finish with the spray paint. I don't know if I just suck at spray painting, but I think if I had to do it again, I'd have used the canned paint. While it dried, I prepared the collar. I went with the simplest collar imaginable: 4 boards, 8 screws. Unless you have a nice table and clamps and what-not, you'll probably need a partner for this. I just did 4 screws on the front, 4 on the back. If I had to do it again, I probably would have bought some metal 90 degree brackets as this would have looked better and been easier to put together, I think. Before assembling the box, I cut a couple 1" holes in the front and a 1" hole in the rear. Note that the 1" holes are bigger than the shanks and leave some wiggle room. With the way the shanks attach, this really doesn't matter. One frustrating thing was that the folks at Home Depot did not do a very precise job cutting the boards, and one of the side boards was probably about a 1/8" longer than the other, making my box slightly skewed. In the end, it's not too noticeable, but if somebody takes a real hard look they can see it. I then applied a couple coats of stain. I think it would have looked a little better with larger boards and nicer wood, but hey, I was doing this on a budget and it was like $2 for all the wood! If I want to make it look better at any point, I can just add an additional layer of wood on the outside like I've seen some builds do. The folks at Home Depot recommended some basic silicone sealant to attach the wood to the fridge. Since my dimensions weren't perfect, I applied the sealant to the wood itself and then dropped it on the top of fridge (with the lid removed, of course). There really are a lot of ways to do this. I could have attached the collar to the lid; a lot of people do this to keep the shanks and things out of the way. I had a decent amount of extra space with this build, so I decided against it. I kinda wish I had taken Josh Wow's advice and just put some weather stripping on the bottom, just in case I decide to replace the wood entirely later, but no big deal. After applying the sealant, I put the lid on, then put a towel and some heavy items on top of it and let it sit. Make sure to remove any sealant that leaks out at this point! After 24 hours, it was solid. I ordered all the hardware from Kegconnection. They were super fast: I ordered it Saturday night, and it was here on Tuesday! Granted, we're both in Texas, so it shouldn't be much transit time anyway . I opted for the stainless steel Perlicks and the 3 dial regulator upgrade so I can keep both kegs at different PSI, mainly so I can carb up one while serving from the other.Putting all the hoses together was a cinch. One thing I didn't realize is that they didn't provide a hose to go from the regulator to the CO2 tank. Instead, you just attach the CO2 tank directly to the regulator. This was going to make it difficult to have the CO2 tank outside of the fridge, so I just left it in there for now, since I have plenty of room. If I ever add another keg, however, I'll need to get that. Tomorrow I'm going to fill my CO2 tank and clean out the kegs. Thursday, I plan to get a keg of something from NXNW and test everything out! My total costs: code:
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 03:47
|
|
|
Docjowles posted:Coriander is typically added at flameout, otherwise it will just boil off. With ginger I've actually found it's best to add it as a "dry hop" type addition. Chop up a couple ounces and throw it in for a week at the end of primary while it's conditioning and that will give a pronounced ginger character. fullroundaction posted:I brew with ginger a lot and this is right on. Good to know. Thanks. So would 3 oz or so be about right or would I be better off adding more? Don't wanna overdo it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 04:49
|
|
|
Thanks for the help. Because it is my first try and only one gallon, I think I will try adding liquid just so that I get a full batch. If it lowers the quality too much I won't lose too much.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 06:14
|
|
|
Whodat Smith-Jones posted:Good to know. Thanks. So would 3 oz or so be about right or would I be better off adding more? Don't wanna overdo it. 2-3oz should be plenty.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 16:07
|
|
|
Docjowles posted:2-3oz should be plenty. Cool. On a related note, I was going to throw 4oz of cocoa nibs (the whole bag I bought from Northern Brewer) in with a 5 gallon batch of brown ale I made last weekend and was wondering if that'd be a little too much. I was thinking maybe that amount would be more appropriate for something like a stout and that I might want to tone it down a bit for a brown ale. Also, would this be an instance where it'd be beneficial to rack on top of the cocoa nibs into secondary, or is it still not worth it?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 00:00
|
|
|
Oh gently caress me, the stopper is stuck in my Better Bottle and I want to check my gravity. I pushed it down too far because it kept popping out, but now I have nothing to grab. I know I'm not the first bonehead to do this, so how do I get it out? Sanitized Allen wrench? E: Allen wrench does not work, I think I'm going to try to cut it in half and push it inside without scratching the neck of the carboy. Mistaken For Bacon fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Feb 21, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 00:54
|
|
|
Imaduck posted:
Congrats on your new keezer. Looks like you got it for a steal. Out of curiosity, why can't both the regulator and the co2 tank be located outside of your freezer? In my experience (non-homebrew) it's pretty common to have the regulator directly attached to the gas tank. I've started a tally of what I need to build my own keezer. The best deal on kegs I've found are pin locks for ~$36 shipped per keg. I get the general impression that ball lock kegs are preferred, any reason in particular? Also, while the collar looks awesome I was hoping to sacrifice that and serve from picnic taps stored in the freezer in order to keep costs down. Does the collar server any purpose besides giving you more room and a place to house some awesome looking taps?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 01:52
|
|
|
ZIGfried posted:Congrats on your new keezer. Looks like you got it for a steal. Out of curiosity, why can't both the regulator and the co2 tank be located outside of your freezer? In my experience (non-homebrew) it's pretty common to have the regulator directly attached to the gas tank. quote:I've started a tally of what I need to build my own keezer. The best deal on kegs I've found are pin locks for ~$36 shipped per keg. I get the general impression that ball lock kegs are preferred, any reason in particular? quote:Also, while the collar looks awesome I was hoping to sacrifice that and serve from picnic taps stored in the freezer in order to keep costs down. Does the collar server any purpose besides giving you more room and a place to house some awesome looking taps?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 02:24
|
|
|
Garanimals4Seniors posted:Oh gently caress me, the stopper is stuck in my Better Bottle and I want to check my gravity. I pushed it down too far because it kept popping out, but now I have nothing to grab. I know I'm not the first bonehead to do this, so how do I get it out? Sanitized Allen wrench? Nooooo... Gonna have to rack then do this. http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=uL1ovAYtKuQ&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DuL1ovAYtKuQ I've seen on other forums it will get your stopper out of a glass carboy. Should work with a bb too. Edit: you don't have one of those weird better bottle cap airlocks do you?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 02:39
|
|
|
Garanimals4Seniors posted:Oh gently caress me, the stopper is stuck in my Better Bottle and I want to check my gravity. I pushed it down too far because it kept popping out, but now I have nothing to grab. I know I'm not the first bonehead to do this, so how do I get it out? Sanitized Allen wrench? The resultant crumbs from the stopper will be a nightmare. take a screw, screw it into the stopper, and use pliers to grab onto the screw. Do not screw all the way through the stopper. Or use a corkscrew.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 03:14
|
|
|
Not the Better Bottle cap, I have a #10.5 gum bung. I actually just bought some of the molded bungs on my way one for work. I guess I can knock the thing in there when it looks like fermentation has stopped, because I wrestled with it for an hour and couldn't budge it. E: I can't believe I forgot to use a corkscrew.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 03:16
|
|
|
sonofsunaj posted:I am making my first mead in a 1 gallon batch and should be racking it. Because of the fruit in it and extra space left for foaming, I'm worried that this will cause a very large empty space. For future reference, the absolute best way to fill headspace is with must you have reserved from the initial boil or with a completed still mead of the same sort. (Don't use a stabilized mead for this, as the same chemicals you used to stabilize it can slow or outright stop fermentation in your current batch. If topping off with a finished mead, it is best to use one of the same type that you used the same yeast strain on; but a plain mead can be used in almost anything without heavily affecting the flavor profile.) One of my favored methods to prevent headspace issues when running test batches of melomel with heavy fruit content is to make a slightly oversized batch that I primary in a 2-gallon bucket. You'll have plenty of room for fruit and degassing. When I rack off the primary into a gallon carboy, I save as much of the extra must as I can in sanitized and airlocked 375's, airlocked mason jars, or airlocked beer bottles (#2 stopper) for reintroduction after my second racking. The parted out must will continue fermenting on its own and will not shock or dilute the main batch upon reintroduction. Doing it that way, you can easily retain a full gallon of mead/wine into tertiary.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 11:10
|
|
|
EvilSlug posted:I realize I'm a bit late on this one; but thought I would offer some advice for the future. Don't worry too much with headspace on wines (especially mead) when you're first starting out. Focus on your methods and your sanitization while making notes of what causes you problems and exactly where the taste goes bad (if it does). As long as fermentation is active, that headspace will be filled with CO2. When fermentation slows or stops, it will start to be a concern; but mead is made primarily from honey and is not as prone to oxidization as beer or wines (even wines are often highly resistant). I wish there was a way to bookmark individual posts. This is incredibly helpful, as I realized I haven't made any plans for dealing with headspace and I'm definitely not able to get any more equipment before I rack it again. Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 11:20
|
|
|
Pucklynn posted:I wish there was a way to bookmark individual posts. This is incredibly helpful, as I realized I haven't made any plans for dealing with headspace and I'm definitely not able to get any more equipment before I rack it again. Thank you! Here ya go. For future click the little # under the person's avatar. This will permalink the post.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 13:25
|
|
|
This thread got me pumped after not brewing for nearly a year. I thought I'd ease myself back into it by going with an extract with specialty grains before going full grain again, so last week I brewed an Oatmeal Coffee Stout. Today I'll be adding the cold extract coffee to my carboy via a clever dripper. Here is the recipe, I'll let you know how it turns out: http://hopville.com/recipe/1681751 Spent grains went towards making some bread 
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 18:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 14:23 |
|
|
Garanimals4Seniors posted:Not the Better Bottle cap, I have a #10.5 gum bung. I actually just bought some of the molded bungs on my way one for work. I guess I can knock the thing in there when it looks like fermentation has stopped, because I wrestled with it for an hour and couldn't budge it. Those bungs always get stuck in the neck because they don't stay whenever they're wet. Most annoying part of better bottles by a long shot. I use a smallish drywall toggle anchor to get them out.  Poke in, yank out with vice grips. I used to use a corkscrew, but the idea of poking holes way into the bung and the insanely vaguely small chance of the stuff living in the hole infecting wort.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 22:26
|
|
