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Stavrogin posted:If you had a 12/4 hunk of mahogany, 12" wide and not quite 4' long, what would you do with it? I grabbed one from an old barn (along with some nice old oak 1x10s), and am both perplexed and intimidated by it. Obvious answer, sorry if it's already been mentioned: Resaw it, bookmatch the halves and make a coffee table top. Round the corners and RO the edges for little people and shins. Of course, knowing someone with a big enough bandsaw to do that is the main kicker.....
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Feb 21, 2013 13:35
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Total noob question. I bought a $140 cardboard-soundboard harp kit. They have a good reputation as a second harp/travelling harp/kid's harp. Yes, it looks like luauauaauaaaa...... phillipine mahogany. Wetsanding it may even be overkill, but go for it, that all sounds fine.
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Feb 21, 2013 13:42
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A friend suspects it's lauan.
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This evening went to see Christopher Schwarz give a presentation on tool chests. He's plain spoken, approachable and pretty much like you see him on tv. At the end we got to look over his new Dutch tool chest and he invited us to take out the tools but no one was touching anything until I just started pulling out stuff and rapping on the box to see how solid it was and that broke the ice. Chris also had his little campaign stool and a couple of us tried it out, it is a lot more comfortable than it looks and I would love to build one if my lathe were a bit longer. Schwarz makes a good case for tool chests; I asked him why a chest over a traditional wall cabinet and he likes having everything at hand. I was a skeptic going in but after looking over the chest and thinking of how my tools are scattered around the shop, I'm starting to buy in. He's going to send me his sketches and this summer I hope to build one and give it try. Sorry the pics aren't better but people were crowding in.     
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Feb 23, 2013 07:45
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Kind of contrary to the thread as I'm demolishing and not building, but how would you guys deal with 4x4's (~12) sunk with concrete? Only thing I can think to do is try to cut it as flush as I can with the sawzall (which I bought to do this with, and wish I'd bought one sooner, it's pretty handy) and try to cover it up with soil. I Imagine it'd be hard to cut it without at least a bit sticking out.   Also if anyone knows an easyish way of removing the horrible orange paint from the step, which looks like stone and mortar. Might be easier to just repaint it. It rarely gets direct sunlight until summer so It'll probably take a long time to dry. Traxxus fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Feb 23, 2013 |
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Feb 23, 2013 21:13
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Yeah, I'd cut 'em flush if that'll do. Otherwise, get a shovel and start diggin', or go rent a jack hammer and break the concrete up. Or both. Could also chain them up to a truck and give 'em a good tug, like you're pulling a stump. Should pop right up that way, I imagine, depending on how deep they go. As for getting the paint off stone/concrete, a good strong pressure washer might be able to clean it off. Otherwise, look into paint strippers. Personally, I'd try the washer first, though, just because if it works, it'll be "friendlier" than the alternatives. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Feb 23, 2013 |
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Feb 23, 2013 21:41
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wormil posted:This evening went to see Christopher Schwarz give a presentation on tool chests. He's plain spoken, approachable and pretty much like you see him on tv. At the end we got to look over his new Dutch tool chest and he invited us to take out the tools but no one was touching anything until I just started pulling out stuff and rapping on the box to see how solid it was and that broke the ice. Chris also had his little campaign stool and a couple of us tried it out, it is a lot more comfortable than it looks and I would love to build one if my lathe were a bit longer. There was an episode of The Woodwrights shop where he was showing Roy his chest and explaining the history of them. It was amazing how much stuff was crammed in such a little box and how organized it was.
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Feb 24, 2013 04:23
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wormil posted:Well done. Oak with mahogany stain? Thanks, that's exactly what I used. I have some extra stain so I'm using it to stain some speakers I'm building. I just picked up a router yesterday because Canadian Tire had one for 50% off. It came with a fixed base as well as a plunge base, I want to round over the front and countersink the speaker drivers so this will come in handy soon enough.
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Feb 24, 2013 21:35
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Thumposaurus posted:There was an episode of The Woodwrights shop where he was showing Roy his chest and explaining the history of them. It was amazing how much stuff was crammed in such a little box and how organized it was. He's made 2 versions of the Dutch chest, one big, one travel size but I think he is still using the English chest in his shop or that was the impression I got while chatting.
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Feb 24, 2013 22:26
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Traxxus posted:Kind of contrary to the thread as I'm demolishing and not building, but how would you guys deal with 4x4's (~12) sunk with concrete? Only thing I can think to do is try to cut it as flush as I can with the sawzall (which I bought to do this with, and wish I'd bought one sooner, it's pretty handy) and try to cover it up with soil. I Imagine it'd be hard to cut it without at least a bit sticking out. I had a swingset in my backyard that I took down, and I ended up just digging them up and then using a cold chisel to break the concrete off of the wood so that I could carry everything out to the street. It was a long day.
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Feb 25, 2013 18:23
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Hey guys, I have a question for you. My mom wants to start drilling/routing "keyholes" into things that she's crafting and selling.  She has a dremel, but she's unsure what she actually needs. My dad said to get a table router but I think she should get a Plunge Router. What should I tell her to do? RizieN fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 17:31
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Plunge router seems appropriate. You can get a Dremel attachment to do it too though http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4 Edit: Doh, didn't click your link dwoloz fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 18:54
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RizieN posted:Hey guys, I have a question for you. RizieN, I just recently purchased that exact keyhole router bit to do what your Mom is wanting to do. However, that bit has a 1/4" shaft and it will not fit on a Dremel tool (Max bit size is 1/8" I believe). Even if it did fit I don't think it would have the power to cut cleanly. She will most likely have to purchase a small trim router that has a 1/4" collet that accepts a bit that size. I cut with that bit using a Porter Cable 1 3/4 HP router. Here is a link to a trim router. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...51#.US-YqfIueSo I think if she carefully plunged the bit in and moved the router along a clamped guide like in the picture below it would work out great. That is not something I think you could safely and accurately do with a table router like you mentioned. 
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Feb 28, 2013 18:57
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Thanks guys. She actualy found a keyhole routing bit for her dremel, that image was just illustrate what I was talking about. I'll pass this info on to her. Thanks again. edit (what you said is exactly what I tried to explain to her, guess she just wanted confirmation) RizieN fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 18:58
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good god, do not try to free-hand plunge a keyhole bit. you need a plunge router or something to do it for you in a controlled/calculated way on the dremel... not only will it spin out of your hand as you try to put it in the wood, but you'd have a hell of a time keeping the depth consistent.
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Mar 1, 2013 00:53
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Yeah, just because someone sells a bit for a thing that happens to fit in a tool you have doesn't mean they were all meant to be used in conjunction. Trying to use a bit like that on a dremel is a recipe for disaster, as the bit will be pulling in all sorts of directions at once. Some dremels have a little guard that can come down to hold the dremel at a right angle and at a fixed distance, but that's really just for soft stuff like drywall, and is not for plunging at all. A plunge router is absolutely the way to go. In the original picture, the cut on the right can be made with a router table, but the cut on the left is for a plunge router, which will also do the right cut just fine.
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Mar 1, 2013 01:22
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, just because someone sells a bit for a thing that happens to fit in a tool you have doesn't mean they were all meant to be used in conjunction. Trying to use a bit like that on a dremel is a recipe for disaster, as the bit will be pulling in all sorts of directions at once. Some dremels have a little guard that can come down to hold the dremel at a right angle and at a fixed distance, but that's really just for soft stuff like drywall, and is not for plunging at all. I agree, especially since you said your mother is going to be selling these things. A plunge router is the right way to do it. If that's too much money just check craigslist for a week or so and one will come up. Dremels are great for a lot of things but when quality is needed there's almost always something better.
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Mar 1, 2013 02:01
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wormil posted:He's made 2 versions of the Dutch chest, one big, one travel size but I think he is still using the English chest in his shop or that was the impression I got while chatting. My friend has a really sick DIY chest, he took one of those knaack gang boxes he bought used and built a carpenter's style sliding multilevel tool chest into it using cheaper wood and fasteners instead of joinery, he's got all his hand tools in it and some power tools at the bottom, and the whole thing can be rolled around his rented shop space.
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Mar 6, 2013 18:16
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Know anything about the quality of "Bridgeport" chisels? Just got this set for $14
dwoloz fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Mar 6, 2013 |
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Mar 6, 2013 18:52
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Not an Anthem posted:My friend has a really sick DIY chest, he took one of those knaack gang boxes he bought used and built a carpenter's style sliding multilevel tool chest into it using cheaper wood and fasteners instead of joinery, he's got all his hand tools in it and some power tools at the bottom, and the whole thing can be rolled around his rented shop space. Funny that you mention that, I have an aluminum tool/truck box that someone gave me years ago and I've never used. It's just a box, no dividers or anything, one lid, and I was thinking of taking it to the shop and making sliding tool trays for it. dwoloz posted:Know anything about the quality of "Bridgeport" chisels?
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Mar 7, 2013 09:44
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wormil posted:Sanding seems like it should be the easiest thing about using a lathe but I'm having trouble. It seems no matter how much I sand, a few grooves show up. The grooves aren't there before I sand and they are a little larger/deeper than the sandpaper grit. I progress from 80 grit to 100/150/220/320. From a few pages back, but a few suggestions/questions/ideas - How fast is it turning when you sand? A lot of people sand with the lathe running way too fast, which causes grooves even when moving the paper around quickly Try going to very fine grit, you can get automotive sandpaper up to 12000 grit. Is your lathe reversible? Try going in both directions The inside curve is just end grain being exposed. It happens a lot with stuff like Mahogany, but burls can really do that. Also, sharpen your tools and take a finer cut, you'll be able to cut through the grain without tearing, or turn your speed up A little project I'm working on is a hanging wall cabinet for my single malt scotches. Other than the band saw for rip cuts, it's all hand tools. So far, a set of old stanley bailey planes (#7 corrugated jointer, #5 jack) a Lie-Nielsen #4 smoothing plane, Lie-Nielsen shoulder and small brass block plane. Veritas router plane and some old, old wooden planes, including a plough plane, rabbet plane and a tongue and groove set for doing the dados in the doors for the panels. The carcase is mahogany, the small shelves are tiger maple, the back is walnut, the lower door panel is laurel burl veneered panels and the upper panel is amber mica. The case construction is dovetails, the main shelf is a wedged through-mortise. The doors are all M&T construction. So far it has an oil base coat and one coat of Arm-R-Seal top coat. It's 32" tall by 42" wide. Some progress photos -     
Tempus Fugit fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Mar 7, 2013 |
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Mar 7, 2013 21:33
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Tempus Fugit posted:How fast is it turning when you sand? Speed is unknown. I've been planning to make a disc tachometer but haven't done it yet. Starting at a higher grit helped a lot though. I turned something out of padauk and had almost no problems so I think a lot of it was the pine scraps I was using for practice. I tried sanding with wet/dry automotive paper but the black comes off and makes my piece dingy.
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Mar 7, 2013 23:08
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Get a set of micro mesh paper for sanding. You can easily get a mirror finish on bare woods by hand with it. Using a lathe you should be able to have a super fine finish in no time.
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Mar 8, 2013 00:33
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So I asked a while back about a folding, portable worktable that I planned on building with my dad so I could use it at my house I rent. I wanted something that would be sturdy enough to be practical but also able to be put away and stuck in a corner. We basically used this guy's plans. We just made it bigger and I mounted a vise to it and drilled some dog holes (thanks for the suggestions). I think it turned out pretty well. It's fairly sturdy although it does shake a little bit when sawing or planing, but that's to be expected the way it's designed. It's pretty drat heavy but I can haul it around by myself without trouble. So now I just need some advice on where to go next for making some stuff. I can't really set up a workshop plus I'm trying not to go hog wild spending all my money on tools, so I can't really get a table saw or band saw or anything. My plan is to get a circular saw, jig saw, and random orbit sander. I also need some hand tools. I got a restored Stanley #4 plane off craigslist so far. I also need to get a block plane, a dovetail saw, marking gauge, mallet, and chisels. Also of course a sharpening system. For the hand tools I plan on trying to get a restored block plane off craigslist or ebay, getting a set of Narex chisels, and getting a mallet and marking gauge off amazon. As for the dovetail saw, I need some advice. Is there a way to get away with getting a decent saw without spending $150 on a lee valley dovetail saw? Some of the dovetail saws on amazon have decent reviews but note that the cheap saws can be good but you have to sharpen it first for it to be worth a poo poo. I'm all for learning to sharpen my own tools but I just want to get something to start practicing dovetails and get started. I was thinking of a japanese pullsaw. Any recommendations? As for power tools, it's tempting to buy a cordless Dewalt circular saw and jigsaw cause I know they're quality, but really expensive. I know cordless has it's downfalls but it seems like it would be very convenient so I don't have to run huge extension cords out into the yard, plus I'm doing just personal work so I don't know how much battery life would be an issue. On the other hand, I see lots of circular saws on craigslist, so I could get a half decent used corded one of any brand for 40-60 bucks, and upgrade later if necessary. I feel I would use a jigsaw a lot as well, so I'm not sure if that would be also something I could get by with a cheapo craigslist used one, or I should get a good one to start with. As usual this post ended up being longer than I expected. Thanks for any advice.
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Mar 8, 2013 03:14
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nosleep posted:As for power tools, it's tempting to buy a cordless Dewalt circular saw and jigsaw cause I know they're quality, but really expensive. I know cordless has it's downfalls but it seems like it would be very convenient so I don't have to run huge extension cords out into the yard, plus I'm doing just personal work so I don't know how much battery life would be an issue. On the other hand, I see lots of circular saws on craigslist, so I could get a half decent used corded one of any brand for 40-60 bucks, and upgrade later if necessary. I feel I would use a jigsaw a lot as well, so I'm not sure if that would be also something I could get by with a cheapo craigslist used one, or I should get a good one to start with.
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Mar 8, 2013 08:38
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Magnus Praeda posted:Go corded. Cordless tools are expensive and way less convenient unless you buy extra batteries and quick chargers. Buy a 50' extension cord and then use the money you save buying corded to get better models and blades. As tempting as a cheap saw is, it's more expensive in the long run when you find it can't hold an angle or power through a board and end up upgrading anyway. I agree with this. Corded for saws for sure, as well as most other things. They dont lose power in the middle of a cut. The exception would be a cordless impact driver. gently caress those things are handy.
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Mar 8, 2013 15:35
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nosleep posted:
On your bench, just throw some sandbags over the lower stretchers and it will help hold it still. If you end up buying used planes and those Narex chisels, just be aware that you're going to spend a fair amount of time tuning them up. The Narex chisels are fine, but the backs are seriously not flat out of the box. You might consider something like a Worksharp. Yeah, it's a hundred bux, but I think it's money well spent. I really only use mine to flatten chisel and plane blade backs, but it takes about a minute and leaves a decent finish. I just restored a set of wooden tongue and groove plane blades that were about 100 years old and in poo poo condition. With a set of water stones (200/1000 and 4000/8000) and the worksharp it literally took 5 minutes to make them razor sharp. My father-in-law bough some Narex a few years ago and, while he likes them now, he spent upwards of 3 hours a piece just getting them tuned up. For the handsaws, I don't think you can go wrong with these. I don't own them but I've used them several times and I think they're great and relatively affordable. They will cut relatively well right out of the box too. Sharpening hand saws isn't tough, but probably something you want to learn on a cheaper saw first. Curious why you want both a circular saw and a jig saw? If you set up a straight edge to act as a fence, you can do rip cuts with either one. If you build yourself a bench hook for your new bench you can do crosscuts with a hand saw very quickly. I'd think about just getting one and then see if you really need the other. Spend the money instead on a decent marking gauge, mallet, and block plane.
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Mar 8, 2013 18:05
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wormil posted:Speed is unknown. I've been planning to make a disc tachometer but haven't done it yet. Starting at a higher grit helped a lot though. I turned something out of padauk and had almost no problems so I think a lot of it was the pine scraps I was using for practice. I tried sanding with wet/dry automotive paper but the black comes off and makes my piece dingy. When I was learning to turn, I had a friend who made hand tools for a living and turned all day every day. He told me to avoid pine other than for practice spindle turning, so I think you're absolutely right. It always seems like the soft woods are tricky, I've turned some redwood burls before that refuse to ever get smooth.
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Mar 8, 2013 18:19
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Speaking of power tool recommendations: I went to the store to pick up a new corded drill and went nuts; there are too many options, and I have no idea whatsoever what I'm looking for. This is for basic "drill holes in walls" stuff. What is the go-to brand nowadays, and what size chuck do I need?
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Mar 8, 2013 18:23
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There are a lot of tools where cheap is better than none but saws do not fall into that category. Cheap saws will make you hate woodworking whether they are hand or power; cheap Japanese saws included. There is only one cheap saw I'm aware of that's worth owning and that is the wood handled flush cut saw from Harbor Freight, it's about $6 w/coupon and I highly recommend it. Ebay is a good source for western style hand saws which I prefer over pull style. I bought a GH Bishop rip saw (~1860's) awhile back and got lucky because it came sharpened, it cuts wood like a laser, cost w/ shipping was $20. Dovetail saws are hard to buy cheap because they are hip and happenin'.
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Mar 8, 2013 19:10
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Tempus Fugit posted:If you end up buying used planes and those Narex chisels, just be aware that you're going to spend a fair amount of time tuning them up. The Narex chisels are fine, but the backs are seriously not flat out of the box. I got a set of those narex chisels and they were pretty flat out of the box. Probably only spent 10-15 minutes each to get them from factory to ridiculously sharp.
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Mar 8, 2013 19:27
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swampface posted:I got a set of those narex chisels and they were pretty flat out of the box. Probably only spent 10-15 minutes each to get them from factory to ridiculously sharp. Ah well, there you go. I actually think they are good chisels, I've just heard horror stories. AND seeing from your avatar that you are Roy Underhill, I'm going to defer to you!
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Mar 8, 2013 19:32
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School me on drum sanders. Based on what I've read the last day or so there are 2 types, overhead drum and bottom V-drum (v=Velcro). V-drum pros: passive dust collection, easier/better active dust collection, doesn't load up the sandpaper, gives a fine finish, sandpaper is easy to remove/replace, simple to build, requires very little HP (supposedly 1/4-1/3 is enough) and uses a single speed, no conveyor cons: takes off a very tiny bit at a time and won't work for thicknessing unless you have the patience of a saint, not sure if the velcro drum can easily be shop built Overhead pros: will thickness wood, will keep sides parallel within reason, can be more aggressive, can be almost entirely shop built, cons: paper loads up, dustier, a little more complex to build, requires more HP and variable speed is nice to have, conveyor is not required but makes them easier to use. Do I have the gist of it? If so I'm leaning toward the overhead drum.
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Mar 9, 2013 02:40
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Speaking of power tool recommendations: I went to the store to pick up a new corded drill and went nuts; there are too many options, and I have no idea whatsoever what I'm looking for. This is for basic "drill holes in walls" stuff. What is the go-to brand nowadays, and what size chuck do I need? i've got a 3/8" chuck and i've never wanted for more - my ridgid corded drill was cheap ($65CAD), has a lifetime warranty, and if anything it is TOO powerful. if i was buying another corded drill, I would definitely get something with a speed dial or adjustable torque. and honestly, if there's one tool that I wish was cordless, it's the drill - it's a pain in the rear end drilling things in overhead/hard to reach areas with a corded drill and extension cord, especially on a ladder... you have to plan ahead and tie up a section of cord to the ladder so that you aren't trying to lift the extension cord while holding the drill steady to stand a screw. but that being said, i've made out just fine. i don't use it enough to justify double or triple the price for a cordless, but if you will be then consider going the kijiji route. Ridgid is great because of their lifetime warranty, and I've heard of people bringing dead/weak batteries in to service centers and getting replacements with no questions asked.
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Mar 9, 2013 03:47
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Guitarchitect posted:i've got a 3/8" chuck and i've never wanted for more - my ridgid corded drill was cheap ($65CAD), has a lifetime warranty, and if anything it is TOO powerful. if i was buying another corded drill, I would definitely get something with a speed dial or adjustable torque. and honestly, if there's one tool that I wish was cordless, it's the drill - it's a pain in the rear end drilling things in overhead/hard to reach areas with a corded drill and extension cord, especially on a ladder... you have to plan ahead and tie up a section of cord to the ladder so that you aren't trying to lift the extension cord while holding the drill steady to stand a screw. Yeah there is an investment up front for a cordless system but once you've got two batteries and a charger you're golden. Modern lithium systems charge faster than you can use them so two batteries means you can run all day when you need too. Extra batteries are mostly a convenience. If you're building a house you might want a corded circular but I bet most people are fine with cordless and would benefit from the convenience. Once you've got the batteries you can shop tool-only and prices are comparable to corded (check ebay for people selling unwanted tools from kits). A milwaukee M18 hamer drill is $69 tool-only, the jig saw is $129 and the circular saw is $120 to name a couple examples (this is why it's important to look at the whole system when buying cordless). So I don't consider cost that much of an issue and lower end systems like Ryobi are even less. That said, the downside to cordless is the battery technology. Lithium batteries lose ~20% a year regardless of use so they have limited life. That remains the main tradeoff.
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Mar 9, 2013 05:53
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Well the trip to the antique mall paid off! Found a great looking pair of Stanley hand planes that are in pretty decent shape. Purchased the pair for $40 and the wife found a cool orange juice carafe to boot! The longer one is a No. 6 and the shorter one is a No. 5. Sorry for the weird lighting in the pictures, we really need better lighting in the garage.    Here's a shot of the chip breaker and the blade off the No. 5 plane. You can see the creepy spider nests in this pic  Field stripped the whole thing as well, getting ready to restore this guy first  Doing some reading on how to rust removal via electrolysis so that should be an adventure. I'll post more pics as I make progress.
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Mar 9, 2013 06:19
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can someone point me to (or explain) the benefits of a wood hand plane (like a krenov) versus a steel hand plane? the former seem like a pain in the butt to properly adjust, while a decent stanley plane just takes an adjustment here + there on the fly to take a deeper cut or straighten the iron. does it just come down to cost? and are the inconveniences of adjusting a wooden plane worth it?
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Mar 9, 2013 19:49
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Guitarchitect posted:can someone point me to (or explain) the benefits of a wood hand plane (like a krenov) versus a steel hand plane? the former seem like a pain in the butt to properly adjust, while a decent stanley plane just takes an adjustment here + there on the fly to take a deeper cut or straighten the iron. does it just come down to cost? and are the inconveniences of adjusting a wooden plane worth it? My only experience is with a transitional but I believe it comes down to personal preference. The wood sole is easy to flatten but probably needs occasional tuning. Other than that both have their fans. Wood planes look nicer, have been around for centuries and are still common enough so they must not be too inconvenient.
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Mar 9, 2013 22:45
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Tempus Fugit posted:On your bench, just throw some sandbags over the lower stretchers and it will help hold it still. If you end up buying used planes and those Narex chisels, just be aware that you're going to spend a fair amount of time tuning them up. The Narex chisels are fine, but the backs are seriously not flat out of the box. You might consider something like a Worksharp. Yeah, it's a hundred bux, but I think it's money well spent. I really only use mine to flatten chisel and plane blade backs, but it takes about a minute and leaves a decent finish. I just restored a set of wooden tongue and groove plane blades that were about 100 years old and in poo poo condition. With a set of water stones (200/1000 and 4000/8000) and the worksharp it literally took 5 minutes to make them razor sharp. My father-in-law bough some Narex a few years ago and, while he likes them now, he spent upwards of 3 hours a piece just getting them tuned up. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I guess those Veritas dovetail saws are pretty affordable, I think I'll go with one of those. I'll look into the worksharp and some water stones for sure, I realize that sharp tools are ultra important and much safer so it's something I have to invest some money into. As for circular/jig saw, I guess there are some projects I want to do that require some circular holes and curved cuts, so it seems a jigsaw would be the most efficient way to do it since I can't get a band saw. For a circular hole I could probably just get a hole saw bit but that's 20-30 bucks for one bit for one project, a jigsaw I would have for other uses down the line. Regarding the block plane, I think I got lucky with my craigslist find for the number 4 stanley, so I've been looking more at ebay for trying to get a block plane. There seem to be a ton of different types of old stanley block planes, so I'm not sure what to look for when buying one. I want to buy one that's restored for use, not for antique value obviously, but there seem to be so many out there. If anyone has any advice for what to look for that'd be helpful. Thanks.
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Mar 10, 2013 04:58
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Is there a Hand Planes for Dummies type guide anywhere? Whats the difference between a block plane, #5, smooth, jointer plane, etc? What do all the different parts do?
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Mar 10, 2013 05:58
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:32 |
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Super Waffle posted:Is there a Hand Planes for Dummies type guide anywhere? Whats the difference between a block plane, #5, smooth, jointer plane, etc? What do all the different parts do? Hopefully this is the right vid, should be an overview. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3100/3105.html
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Mar 10, 2013 09:48
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