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No stop and go, really. I do about 20 miles one way to work, almost entirely highway. I do push triple digits a little too often, but not until she's good and warmed up. PP will probably do just fine. The rotors appear to be in good shape. I'll keep an eye on them though. Going with Hawk HPS street pads. E: hmm, after seeing the UOA maybe the T6 is worth it...
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Feb 26, 2013 15:51
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And of course, compare prices. Sometimes you'll find Rotella cheaper than PP!
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Feb 26, 2013 16:04
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I use Rotella 5w40. The cheapest I can find it for is around $21/gal at Wal-Mart. I can post my UOA later, but it appears I can go over 5k per change, according to Blackstone.
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Feb 26, 2013 16:50
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We use Rotella pretty heavily over in Subaru land. You can get lucky and get T6 really cheaply especially when it's on sale.
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Feb 26, 2013 17:09
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SynMoo posted:Definitely interference. I run Pennzoil Platinum in mine with 7000 mile intervals, since almost every drive for me is a long one. I replaced my rotors when I did my front pads at that time, but that's because I was getting warped rotors (or uneven pad deposits or whatever the gently caress). I have the originals still in the garage ready to be turned next time I need pads. So as far as my own issues, I've noticed an increasing tendency for my MS3 to change track based on throttle, even at light inputs. Some googling says either engine mounts (which were very recently replaced, but I'll torque them down again just to be sure) or a problem with either a lower balljoint or control-arm bushing. Edit: My own UOA. For what it's worth, 9k OCI was definitely too far. Synmoo, your commute sounds only slightly shorter / less highway than mine. Mine is about 25 miles one way but it's literally only half a mile from my house to the freeway and half a mile from the freeway to the office. I should probably do a new UOA soon though since I've stopped driving it as my primary commuter. 
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 17:24
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Every time someone posts their Blackstone results I giggle a little bit. They're located in the absolute worst part of town. It's like a slice of Detroit was dropped into the city.
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Feb 26, 2013 17:41
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My commute is entirely stop and go, and cold to boot. About as abusive as you can get. I'd really like to just suck it up and run T6, I already do in my bike since it's a great oil there as well and plays nicely with a wet clutch. But I've heard it mentioned in this thread before that Mazda will reject you for warranty repair on the smoky turbo if you've been running anything outside 5W30? Even if it's a far better oil than whatever crud the dealership has in their fill hoses.
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Feb 26, 2013 17:42
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Rhyno posted:Every time someone posts their Blackstone results I giggle a little bit. They're located in the absolute worst part of town. It's like a slice of Detroit was dropped into the city. It's not like anyone's going to break in and steal gallons upon gallons of used motor oil.
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Feb 26, 2013 17:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's not like anyone's going to break in and steal gallons upon gallons of used motor oil. There's an insulation company here that specializes in the removal of old, toxic insulation and replacing it with newer environmentally safe material. Their storage facility was robbed and all that was taken was pallets of material set to be destroyed. Meth heads will steal anything.
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Feb 26, 2013 17:53
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Just did the plugs in my MS3; these are a tick over 60k old. Top-to-bottom is drivers side to passenger side. Only interesting bit is that the second plug came out wet and smelling of gasoline, even though the engine was stone cold. Best I can figure is that it must've injected fuel in that one right as it was shutting down and never got a spark to clear it out. Looked good in general. Didn't even bother wiping out the inside of the intercooler; my phone sucks at pictures but there was almost no oil residue or anything of the like on the inside. Not bad for a 121k mile car!  
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Feb 26, 2013 21:42
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As far as reliability goes, I have a '09 MS3GT, 32k km. Other than the battery making GBS threads the bed after not being driven for a year (moved overseas for 2 years, car sat and was rarely driven), it's a champ. No issues whatsoever.
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Feb 27, 2013 00:33
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On my 2012 Mazda3 i Grand Touring's headunit, both bluetooth devices I've paired (Galaxy Nexus and iPhone 4) show up as "NO NAME" when I go to "LINK CHANGE". You click the wheel and it invisibly scrolls between the two NO NAMEs, making pairing sort of a guessing game. Looking at the owner's manual, I can't edit the devices' displayed names, the most I could do is give them voice tags and I can at least differentiate them if I use handsfree to change pair. The Galaxy Nexus has a name set for bluetooth, and I don't think the iPhone 4's name can be edited, and I don't get why neither would show a name. Any ideas?
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Feb 27, 2013 01:31
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Phy posted:My commute is entirely stop and go, and cold to boot. About as abusive as you can get. I'd really like to just suck it up and run T6, I already do in my bike since it's a great oil there as well and plays nicely with a wet clutch. But I've heard it mentioned in this thread before that Mazda will reject you for warranty repair on the smoky turbo if you've been running anything outside 5W30? Even if it's a far better oil than whatever crud the dealership has in their fill hoses. Any truth to this? I did oil research before I bought my car so I knew to run T6 from the get-go, but I didnt know about the smokey turbo problem until I read about it later. Got 20,000 miles on T6 now, and am concerned in the back of my mind. Do they ask for oil receipts? I just keep a log of when I change the oil and I have saved the empty filter boxes inadvertently (just put the empty ones back in the big box of 10 filters I bought), but that's about it.
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Mar 2, 2013 02:36
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What weight is the T6? My own problems yet again: The A/C has begun working only when it wants to sometimes after starting up. The green A/C light on the console will be on, but the compressor won't be working (evidenced by the fact that the air is coming out warm). If I manually hit the A/C button twice to turn it off and on, it will kick on and not have any problems again until after I shut the car off. It will run nice and cold once it kicks on, and it doesn't do this every single time by a long shot.
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Mar 2, 2013 05:25
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T6 is 5w40. It actually slowed down some of my oil leaks in the beater Subaru.
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Mar 2, 2013 05:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:What weight is the T6? There is supposed to be a TSB about the compressor wiring icing over and causing problems, but I haven't found the text online and don't know what models it applies to.
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Mar 2, 2013 08:06
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CharlesM posted:There is supposed to be a TSB about the compressor wiring icing over and causing problems, but I haven't found the text online and don't know what models it applies to. I found some posts referencing it - it would keep the compressor cycled on too long and ice up the evaporator. That's definitely not the case here, since waiting for that to thaw takes a good while. When it acts up, I can get the compressor to kick in immediately by quickly cycling the switch.
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Mar 2, 2013 16:26
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The chrome ring on my shift knob is gouged to hell and I want a new one. While looking I thought I might as well buy a short throw shifter. Any suggestions? Gen 1 Mazdaspeed3. Also I guess neat shift knobs for my knob. Edit: First person to post hello kitty vibrator wins.
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Mar 2, 2013 19:47
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I've been tempted by the J. Barone shift bushings, weight and short throw shifter. You might check that out.
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Mar 2, 2013 19:53
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MetaJew posted:I've been tempted by the J. Barone shift bushings, weight and short throw shifter. You might check that out. I used his short shift adapter for a while (the one that installs at the linkage in the engine bay) I liked it a lot, shifts were a little more difficult but much shorter. Unfortunately, my (stock) shift lever broke in half while using it, right at the weak spot where the pin goes through for the reverse engagement mechanism. I don't 100% blame the adapter, but the extra strain on the shifter sure seemed suspect to me. No I was not drag racing and pounding through the gears, just normal driving, and a particularly firm shift one day and it snapped. 
opengl fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 20:43
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If it's not one thing it's ten others. Coolant leak somewhere on the driver's side - it's puddling / cooking off slowly on top of the transmission given the residue there. Doesn't seem to be the throttle body, can't seem to locate where it is exactly though. Any common points where it could have started leaking from?
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Mar 4, 2013 00:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:I found some posts referencing it - it would keep the compressor cycled on too long and ice up the evaporator. That's definitely not the case here, since waiting for that to thaw takes a good while. When it acts up, I can get the compressor to kick in immediately by quickly cycling the switch. I remember having to repair/replace quite a few of the connectors for the AC compressors that are just behind the passenger side axle. Corrosion gets in and you get an intermittant AC not working, especially on a car 5 plus years old. You can unplug the AC compressor from up top on a regular mazda 3, just takes a bit of work.
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Mar 4, 2013 02:09
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Unfortunately it wouldn't surprise me. Even though it's an Arizona car with a clean title (i.e. no flood history), it seems like every fastener on it wants to rust like it's Canuckistan.
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Mar 4, 2013 04:57
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I've been considering getting a used Mazda6, and one thing that has made me bizarrely suspicious is how low priced they are compared to Accords, Camrys, Altimas and Fusions of similiar year. Heck, Mazda3s are about the same price. Also, there are also seems to be a much higher quantity of 2012 Mazda6s floating around the used market (looking in California, Arizona). I know this current year is a redesign, does that account for the low price and high amount? Or was it just a popular rental car? And what's the consensus low down on these 2nd generation Mazda6s? From my reading the negatives appear to be a small tick below in reliability, maintenance cost, interior material, mileage to its competitors. But its more stylish and drives "better". I saw the Goons wreck in the previous few pages, clearly crash safety is quite good.
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Mar 6, 2013 22:11
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I think I'm going to leave a pillow in my Mazda3, I put a seat down and took a great nap in the backseat/hatch during my lunch hour. Loving this car more and more every day.
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Mar 7, 2013 00:03
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DanAdamKOF posted:I think I'm going to leave a pillow in my Mazda3, I put a seat down and took a great nap in the backseat/hatch during my lunch hour. Loving this car more and more every day. People have always wondered why there is a travel pillow in my car and yes, it is perfect for just lounging.
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Mar 7, 2013 03:23
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I found a '06 Mazda 5 for $8k with 46k on it. Talked to the people and it's a little old lady car who isn't allowed to drive anymore. No accidents, supposed to be pretty nice. My gut says pretty good deal, what do I need to look out for on these cars? I know about the wheel arch rust, they said there was no rust on it. I'm not really concerned about options or anything, so long as it has working AC and power windows I'm happy. The downside is the old lady's daughter is driving it on account of her car being fixed so I won't be able to look at it for a while.
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Mar 7, 2013 14:39
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I am possibly going to purchase an 07 ms3 tomorrow. It was raining when I checked it out saturday and I didn't get to fiddle with/ inspect it for very long, so I'll be taking a longer test drive and more thorough inspection (checking for the smoke at idle) before I sign anything. So far I know it doesn't have the VVT-I rattle on cold start, and it does have a cobb intake with a cone filter. Do you have to get a tune with one of those? I didn't notice any excessive wear on fasteners in the engine bay and it looks like it has the stock exhaust, so I think I'm good in the modifications department. I've read over the pre purchase FAQ on the mazdaspeed forums, and they mention turning side to side to test the strut mounts. What am I looking for there, a clunk or some sort of vibration through the steering wheel? Salesman claims they replaced the control arms so I'm not too worried about the suspension anyway. It's at a pretty big dealership so it's been detailed of course. I saw a spot of what I thought was antifreeze on top of the MAF, but it was greasy and odorless. What might that have been?
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Mar 11, 2013 05:01
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dreesemonkey posted:I found a '06 Mazda 5 for $8k with 46k on it. Talked to the people and it's a little old lady car who isn't allowed to drive anymore. No accidents, supposed to be pretty nice. My gut says pretty good deal, what do I need to look out for on these cars? I know about the wheel arch rust, they said there was no rust on it. I'm not really concerned about options or anything, so long as it has working AC and power windows I'm happy. In general, tire/suspension issues. They tend to eat tires due to the aggressive rear camber setting from the factory. The stock Toyos on mine were nearly bald at 33K miles. Some owners have also complained of the OEM shocks/struts wearing out quickly, and also suspension clunks that could possibly be fixed with new bushings. I've also had some issues with the rear door power locks randomly deciding to not unlock, but that's more of an annoyance.
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Mar 14, 2013 01:54
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BattleHork posted:In general, tire/suspension issues. They tend to eat tires due to the aggressive rear camber setting from the factory. The stock Toyos on mine were nearly bald at 33K miles. Some owners have also complained of the OEM shocks/struts wearing out quickly, and also suspension clunks that could possibly be fixed with new bushings. Thanks, I did end up reading about the rear suspension/tire wear. At least initially this would be our second car since our civic gets much better mpg, and we only put on ~3k on our second car this year. But if/when we have another kid it would likely become our daily and then be more of an issue. I read most people just rotate their tires every oil change (or two) to minimize the wear.
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Mar 14, 2013 13:52
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Got a new car for the new job to go along with the fiance's 2010 MS3 The bad however: Bent OEM Rim (on snow tires on regular mazda 6 wheel right now)   Think I can run this wheel as it is? Or do I need to get it repaired?
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Mar 16, 2013 23:11
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Welcome aboard! That looks no worse than what I ran on my Jeep for two years but you should have it inspected anyways.
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Mar 17, 2013 02:02
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You should be able to find a wheel shop that will fix that fairly cheaply. Some of them will even come to you.
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Mar 17, 2013 19:08
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Protip: Apparently the radiator hoses for the '07 Mazdaspeed3 are made of unicorn farts, because nobody loving stocks them in Phoenix  The coolant leak I'm having is the driver's side hose, seeping around where it connects to the engine. At least I'm getting faster about pulling the battery, computer, and intake off to do any work on that side! Also, I'm now 99% certain that the A/C issue is just low refrigerant - I finally put two and two together and realized that the occasional high idle has been the compressor switching off when it normally shouldn't be. I've got gauges, I just need to buy a can and a can tap before I bother hooking anything up.
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Mar 18, 2013 16:30
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IOwnCalculus: Have you tried Cardinale Way? I've gotten good prices on ordering parts via mail through them before. http://www.cardinalewaymazdamesa.com/
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Mar 18, 2013 16:51
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They're actually my closest dealer, and the ones I called first - they won't have them until midweek at soonest, and if you walk in off the street they charge you retail. I get the feeling this is common among dealers; I ordered the hoses from the same guys I bought my updated throttle body from, and when I did that they called to verify the payment information. I made some comment on the pricing and they said it's something they only do for online orders, I'd have paid $300 more for the throttle body if I'd been a customer walking in the door.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:23
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If there's some Samco replacement try talking to jamal and see if he can order it in for you.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:42
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So I'm no longer convinced that I have a bent rod. I checked out the VVT actuator and found that the pin decided it didn't like being inside and tried to force its way out, taking a nice little chunk of the actuator housing with it.  It also seems to have messed the timing up by jumping a few teeth, and stretched the chain about 1/2", maybe more. I'm hoping that this fixes the inconsistent vibrations I was feeling in the clutch. I ended up replacing the actuator, chain, tensioner, and both guides, and should have it all buttoned back up in a couple days. I'm also replacing the thermostat, since it threw a low coolant temp code (P0126) a couple of times last summer, and I've been meaning to get to it for a while.
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Mar 19, 2013 05:36
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I'm looking to buy a MS6 GT and just took this one for a test drive: http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=342114171&LNX=SOMEDTWVDP. It's one of like three MS6s within 150 miles. Everything is stock on the car except the wheels. He's the 2nd owner since 6k miles and is a 62 year old gearhead, so I think he treated the car well. I talked him down to $15,200, but I'm still worried this is too much for a 6 year old car with 70k miles. Considering he hasn't replaced anything major, including the clutch, that warranty is enticing. But I could easily get a non-warrantied MS6 with similar mileage for at least $1k less, like this one: http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=341124402&LNX=SOMEDTWVDP I was thinking I could talk him down some more once I get a mechanic inspection and find out what needs replacing soon, but won't all of that be covered under the warranty? Should I just be happy with that price since I really like the car?
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Mar 20, 2013 19:35
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stoko posted:timing chain fun So, how hard is this job? I have a persistent fear that my chain / guides / tensioner are in the process of wearing out since they do have 122k+ on them; but if they hold out long enough for me to replace the Ranger with something family friendly, then I'd be thinking about doing the work instead of paying a shop megabucks. Also, what did the parts set you back?
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Mar 20, 2013 19:53
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