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Meta Ridley posted:Bought a 96 Legacy GT 2.5L today, on the way home after buying from private seller it overheated/stalled. Radiator was bone dry. When i bought it I only checked the reservoir which was full. Phase 1 2.5s are DOHC who have Head Gaskets that leak internally, so you won't see anything visually. It will just overheat and warp your engine.
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Feb 25, 2013 13:13
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My STi managed 408whp / 450 wtq on the dyno but the clutch was slipping on that run. Who'd've thunk that my 8 year old stock clutch couldn't hold 450 lb-ft of torque. Time to buy a clutch 
Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Feb 25, 2013 |
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Feb 25, 2013 17:10
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As part of my RS project, I need to fix my noisy power steering pump. It's making noise, and I figured I would buy a rebuilt pump and put it in, but the prices are 160+ for a rebuild? Why so expensive? A seal kit is 5 bucks. Is there any reason that seal kit wouldn't work?
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Feb 25, 2013 19:42
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I am looking into a new(ly used) vehicle for my lady and we're definitely considering a 2010 or newer Outback 2.4L CVT. Are there any problems to look out for/be aware of? I'm doing the usual googling but I know this thread is a Great Library of knowledge. And yes I wish she'd go manual instead of auto but it ain't happenin' \/\/ what if we went for the 2.5L instead?  edit2: and yes I'm aware of cat's CVT opinions tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 07:18
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Well, besides the fact that this car seems to be missing .1l of displacement, I haven't heard much bad about them. catterrorist hates the cvt though
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Feb 26, 2013 08:04
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If an engine swap is needed (and it may be, my car no longer starts..it cranks, turns over and just doesn't get going anymore - I suspect the timing belt jumped). Am I stuck swapping in another 96 2.5L engine ('96 EJ25D) or can I swap in a 97-99 EJ25D without much trouble? Or hell, is there a better DOHC engine that can swap/wire in easily? Engine swaps tend to be cheaper than rebuilding an engine, but I can not find any other '96 EJ25Ds on craigslist or anything, but plenty of 97-99 in the $600-1000 range. I don't have the skills or equipment to swap an engine myself either, so I am assuming about +$800 in labor. If I am way off on repair cost please correct me. Guess I am just wondering what my options are. I'll get it checked out by mechanic first to see full extent of damage, or if the engine is as good as dead now.
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Feb 26, 2013 15:39
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Meta Ridley posted:If an engine swap is needed (and it may be, my car no longer starts..it cranks, turns over and just doesn't get going anymore - I suspect the timing belt jumped). Am I stuck swapping in another 96 2.5L engine ('96 EJ25D) or can I swap in a 97-99 EJ25D without much trouble? Or hell, is there a better DOHC engine that can swap/wire in easily? You can actually swap in 2.2L motors and they last forever unlike the D's where when they over heat they are dead. Yeah I think you can swap in later D's, but I'd wait till chrisgt gets back from chopping down trees or skinning beavers or what ever the gently caress it is he does during the day. He'll write you a dissertation on phase 1 cars.
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Feb 26, 2013 16:47
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Indeed - you should be able to drop in a phase 1 (at least) EJ22 without any wiring work. You'd be running a higher rev limit as well since I think the EJ25D ECU lets it rev to 6.5k.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 16:58
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Oh, my clutch.
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Feb 26, 2013 22:02
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I'm a big fan of the ACT HDSS for that type of power.Meta Ridley posted:If an engine swap is needed (and it may be, my car no longer starts..it cranks, turns over and just doesn't get going anymore - I suspect the timing belt jumped). Am I stuck swapping in another 96 2.5L engine ('96 EJ25D) or can I swap in a 97-99 EJ25D without much trouble? Or hell, is there a better DOHC engine that can swap/wire in easily? The 99 has some upgrades to the shortblock, so if you are swapping in another 2.5 I'd look for one of those. Chances are it will have less miles and be in better condition, and ideally it has had the headgaskets changed at some point. I don't think I would want to go to a 2.2.
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Feb 26, 2013 22:12
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in re an ACT HDSS: I'm hoping to get it installed in the next week or two. Having power I can't use makes me sad. Sadmeth:  I did drive on the meth briefly anyway and it is a hoot. The power comes on pretty quickly, with some tailpipe flames and smell of alcohol. I switched to a lower boost setup because this clutch has to last at least a week or two. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 22:46
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Subaru goons, I'm in a tough spot. Hopefully someone can give me some insight. Car: 05 Legacy 2.5 GT Limited, manual. 97,500 miles Background: I'm the third owner. From the carfax, first owner was 0-59,000, had all the scheduled maintenance done at the dealership, etc. Second owner was 59,000 to 71,000. No accidents, no maintenance records. I bought it from a used car dealer sometime after. Rookie mistake, I didn't get it inspected before I bought it but it seemed in good shape and I needed something. First thing I did was take it to the dealer for the 60k scheduled maintenance. I figure I'll start fresh where the first owner left off. Dealer performs all the work but also informs me that there is an aftermarket turbo installed. I didn't think too much of it at the time because it ran fine and I wasn't looking to do any work on it other than maintenance. Only problem is I can't figure out what the previous owner was doing. He may have wanted to tune it and got another car before he got too far with it. He also may have blown a turbo (I guess this is somewhat common), and replaced it with whatever he could find before selling it off, etc. etc. Fast forward to... Problem: Last week I got a check engine light. Went to autozone and found out it was p2096: Post Catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1. So I decided to take it to a local Subaru dealership as I'm relatively new to my area and I don't know any other shops or mechanics. Anyways, the dealer says that the front catalytic converter (after the turbo) is fried due to the aftermarket turbo. Basically, the car computer is running as if the turbo is OEM which is creating a different fuel mixture which prematurely fried the cat. They tell me that I could replace just the cat, but it's just going to go bad again unless I also replace the turbo as well. They want to replace the turbo and the cat with OEM parts for $2,800. Options I seem to be hosed. $2,800 is a lot of money, especially given I'm due for the 90k maintenance (30k from when it was last performed) as well as the timing belt, water pump, etc in another 10k or so. I'm not sure what to do. I'm not really interested in tuning, but I guess it's an option if I don't want to go back to OEM. I don't know what turbo is installed but the dealer did say that it isn't any bigger, just different. I'll look tonight to see if I can find out what model it is. In general though, I just wanted something fun to drive and also somewhat reliable. I don't need to go super fast. Any options? Last, I just wanted to say that an obvious option is to just replace the cat and sell it but I would feel bad basically giving someone else a ticking time bomb if the turbo is frying cats like the dealer says. This was my mistake and I'm willing to try and fix it. I should also mention that I don't have a garage or tools to do any work myself... I'm in Jersey City, NJ by the way. Any assistance/comments are appreciated. VVV edit: There are 3 cats, 1 before the turbo and 2 after. I assume it's the middle one that's gone bad because the o2 sensor is after the second one which is triggering the engine light. This is a decent diagram http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62001&d=1231172289. My understanding is if you aren't tuning, you don't really need to worry about the first one. If you go catless, how do you pass emissions? Homers BBBq fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Feb 27, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 19:38
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Don't most people just take out the that whole pipe and replace it with one that is catless? I thought the first Cat was before the turbo? I've read somewhere about those Cats going bad and grenadeing the Turbo.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:05
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Homers BBBq posted:Subaru goons, I'm in a tough spot. Hopefully someone can give me some insight. First of all, I just want to say that your situation isn't as bad as you think it is. You will not need to spend 2,800 dollars. Here is a link to an exhaust diagram: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62001&d=1231172289 You should figure out what turbo you have, get a catless downpipe (the piping with the front cat that's burned out on yours), and have your car tuned to deal with the aftermarket turbo. Have your tuner disable the catalyst codes. If there are no tuners in your area, you can look into either a Cobb accessport or doing it yourself with a tactrix cable and romraider. That's how I would handle your situation. Maybe someone else can chime in here but it might just be possible to get tuned for the aftermarket turbo and disable the code, leaving the post-turbo cats alone. The pre-turbo cats are the dangerous ones. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Feb 27, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 20:07
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daslog posted:Don't most people just take out the that whole pipe and replace it with one that is catless? I thought the first Cat was before the turbo? I've read somewhere about those Cats going bad and grenadeing the Turbo. Anyway, it seems like it'd be a helluva lot cheaper to tune for your current turbo than to replace it with a stock turbo. After tuning you'd probably have a better performing and possibly even safer tune than the stock tune as well. I'm no expert, but it seems like before you do anything though you should make sure there is no other damage or impending failures due to running the stock tune with an aftermarket turbo for so long.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:14
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Makes sense. Whatever you do, I wouldn't count on the dealer. It's pretty rare for them to deal with anything besides stock.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:19
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A lot of that cost is parts, not labor. If you're able to find a used OEM turbo and OEM down pipe and have an independent shop install it for you, you can cut that cost down by at least half, and I think I'm being cautious with that estimate. If you can figure out if that turbo is worth keeping, a catless down pipe and a tune like Hollis said is an equally good road to go down. Sorry about the car, living=learning.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:20
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A picture of the turbo may give me an idea of what it is. Specficially the front of the compressor cover, where there should be some engraved numbers or a plate. I see two options 1 is browse the legacy GT, nasioc, and 3gwrx forums for a stock downpipe and turbo, and then have them swapped on. 2 is pick up an aftermarket downpipe and get the car tuned somewhere. Also, find out of you still have the stock catted up-pipe.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:58
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Does your state have emissions testing? If not, I'd go get a high flow something from a good manufacturer (I have an invida). If you don't go troll lgt.com for a takeoff for almost free. Turbo same deal, though I'd lean toward a good used oem turbo unless you plan to mod. Let's be clear that 2800 is loving insane. A new turbo is 1200 (OEM MSRP), and even dealer labor is only like 400 (I was quoted this when I though I blew mine up). Dunno a new dp price because buying a new oem dp is stupid. It would not add any labor.
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Feb 27, 2013 21:01
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Get a tune for $300–$400 and call it a day. If the car is running lean likely the new turbo is flowing more air than the oem turbo. A tune will straighten that right out and make the car more exciting to drive (yay horse power)
Amandyke fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Feb 27, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 22:23
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A leakdown test is a good idea too.
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Feb 27, 2013 22:42
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Saw this Subie in Big Bear last weekend and fell in love. Has a shovel strapped to the top. Subaru should consider making that standard issue. 
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Feb 27, 2013 23:56
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So I'm looking to get a little more bottom end power / torque, and I'm not sure if I'm going the right way in my search. Vehicle info: 08 WRX - VF52 swap, catless turboback, grimmspeed ebcs, spearco TMIC, AEM CAI, stock BPV, and a conservative protune @ 313hp / 357tq Would the next logical progression be headers, be it ported and polished or full aftermarket setup? I'm definitely not planning on shooting for ginormous power gains yet, as I don't plan a engine/tranny rebuild anytime soon. Just a little more bottom end response would be nice. McSpatula fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 23:57
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. So the first step definitely seems to be to find out what I'm dealing with as far as the aftermarket turbo. If it's any good, then I will have more options. If it's a POS, then I know what my answer is. I'll take a look tonight and post it.
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Feb 28, 2013 00:52
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McSpatula posted:So I'm looking to get a little more bottom end power / torque, and I'm not sure if I'm going the right way in my search. Porting the stock headers doesn't do all that much, but going to an equal length part like killer b or perrin will get you gains across the board. The stock UELs are just not that efficient and Subaru uses EL headers on the n/a cars and jdm sti and new LGT.
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Feb 28, 2013 01:34
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jamal posted:Porting the stock headers doesn't do all that much, but going to an equal length part like killer b or perrin will get you gains across the board. The stock UELs are just not that efficient and Subaru uses EL headers on the n/a cars and jdm sti and new LGT. But then it won't sound like a proper Subaru 
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Feb 28, 2013 02:53
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I just got a recall notice from SOA saying that they need to replace the front catalytic converter and reprogram the ECM on my 2009 NA Legacy. Apparently they have been degrading prematurely...I'm sure glad I don't have to cover that cost myself! 
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Feb 28, 2013 02:53
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Apparently Subaru/Honeywell/Fram are recalling a bunch of the OEM blue oil filters. http://fram.com/sites/default/f/uploads/en/recall_notice_02052013_for_distribution.pdf Check the date code on your hoard of filters and if they don't pass, take 'em back to the dealer for a replacement.
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Feb 28, 2013 02:54
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What's so special about the Subaru filters that people tend to use them over something you can get at the auto store?
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Feb 28, 2013 03:04
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FogHelmut posted:What's so special about the Subaru filters that people tend to use them over something you can get at the auto store? Evidently nothing, since Fram made them.
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Feb 28, 2013 03:06
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FogHelmut posted:What's so special about the Subaru filters that people tend to use them over something you can get at the auto store? I've read that the spring for the bypass valve varies among manufacturers, so people prefer not to worry about which ones are good and get OEM. The cost difference is negligible and the dealership gives you the drain plug crush gasket too. E: ^Yup, they're made by Fram, which means the filter is held together with "engineered media" (cardboard) Neptr fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 03:09
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One of the better writeups I've seen on the various filters for a subaru. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/subaru-oil-filter-comparison-99130/ I just use a Purolator been meaning to switch to WIX 57712 or Napa gold 7712.
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Feb 28, 2013 03:25
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Well ruled out fuel and spark on why my overheated subaru isn't starting. so all signs point to compression and at very least a blown head gasket (cranking it, it turns over and acts like it is about to start. coolant white smoke out the tailpipe and dies), and probably warped/cracked heads too. If coolant is leaking into cylinder, what are the odds that hydrolock occurred and truly killed the engine? obviously hoping that isn't the case. Also it tends to backfire while trying to start, and occasionally gets up to 1K RPM before dying a couple seconds later, would that be consistant with blown head gasket or more damage than that? Anyway it is at the shop now so I guess I'll know by the end of the day
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Feb 28, 2013 13:24
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Meta Ridley posted:Well ruled out fuel and spark on why my overheated subaru isn't starting. so all signs point to compression and at very least a blown head gasket (cranking it, it turns over and acts like it is about to start. coolant white smoke out the tailpipe and dies), and probably warped/cracked heads too. It's more likely that warped heads/deck killed the engine. If I was a betting man, I'd say you should start checking craigslist.
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Feb 28, 2013 13:43
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Think you are right, just in denial or trying to be optimistic  One other option I have is using the heads & I/M from a broken-down 97 2.2L Impreza (EJ22E, bad block but rest is good). From what I've read, the two should be compatible with the ECU and this combo is actually more powerful? I'd still be risking my 2.5 block being bad or damaged/weakened.. but I would be saving on parts tknow a mechanic with a shop who can do the work for cheap. It would suck to do this, then realize the pistons or block is cracked too. Examining all that is pretty much the same labor as a full rebuild too. I'll probably play it safe and buy a full reman'd engine from ebay or something. Only reason I am not cutting my losses and scrapping it is because I literally paid $2900 and got 0 use out of it
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Feb 28, 2013 15:54
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Sudo Echo posted:But then it won't sound like a proper Subaru I think the sound is a silly reason to not go to equal headers but I'm very biased since I have equal length headers on the car. It still sounds ok! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xr2gti8P0kc McSpatula, my STi has a big turbo but I can show you the before/after curves of adding headers on my setup. Before headers @ 21.2 psi, 93 octane:  After headers @ 21.6 psi, 93 octane:   Substantially the same conditions on both dyno days. Invidia equal length headers, ceramic coated by Swaintech, FP Green HTA turbo. Not spraying meth on either run. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 16:32
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So much for equal length headers only being worth 5hp...
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Feb 28, 2013 18:00
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Amandyke posted:So much for equal length headers only being worth 5hp... I had been told the gain would be pretty minimal, and was a little concerned that I was going to be wasting $1000 to make my car sound like a bunch of bees, but in reality it was a significant gain across the entire powerband. The sound may also be cooler than before. The exhaust header was definitely a limiting factor in my setup. 30hp and 50 lb/ft gain 
Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 18:09
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Meta Ridley posted:Think you are right, just in denial or trying to be optimistic How many days did you have it? 4 days and a completely destroyed engine? Call a lawyer, or at least call the seller and threaten legal action. Roman Rambo posted:I had been told the gain would be pretty minimal, and was a little concerned that I was going to be wasting $1000 to make my car sound like a bunch of bees, but in reality it was a significant gain across the entire powerband. The sound may also be cooler than before. The exhaust header was definitely a limiting factor in my setup. That is how working with stock engines is, you reach different bottlenecks as you progress. Every part becomes a limiting factor at some point.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:13
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I'm the limiting factor right now because I need to build up some more balls and get comfortable with this power level. When my clutch is put in next month I'm gonna need to make some passes spraying meth and get used to it.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:18
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