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Finally had time today to start swappin' good parts off the '95 on to my '97.  Got to work swapping out the seats, I also had to swap the rails because the '95 rails were rusting   After I swapped the seats I decided to check the head rest speakers, the '95 sounded like poo poo and the '97 sounded really good so I wanted to see what was up with that.   This is much better, I think they are Clearwater speakers. ToolShack, did you put these in? So yeah, swappin' those out too. Other ones go in the bin as you aussies would say.  Look at the difference in the magnet sizes   So far the swap list goes, Headlights Battery Wipers Plug wires Seats Head rest speakers Rear upper brace Gonna swap out the wheels/tires tomorrow, can't wait to put the Azenis on the '97 yee haw 
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Feb 21, 2013 06:44
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My turbo plans progress. I like to do things in stages, because I'm a noob at this stuff and introducing only one potential source of problems at a time makes troubleshooting easier. Car is a 94 R package, 160,000 miles, handling already sorted, up to date on maintenance, compression checks good. So far, here's what it has: -- Flyin' Miata catback, non-turbo. Courtesy of the PO. -- Racing Beat intake. Also courtesy of the PO. -- Megasquirt (DIYPNP) built, installed, working, and with a functional baseline tune. Closed-loop idle is still a bit of a mystery, but I'm making progress. -- Innovate MTX-L wideband sensor and gauge. Installed and working. Feeding the MS. -- MAF removed, replaced with IAT and MAP sensors. Working fine. -- RX8 425cc injectors. These are ready to install, and I think that's next on the agenda before I go too much further with the tune. I'll do the fuel filter while I'm in there. Here's the shopping list for the next stage: Flyin' Miata clutch Happy Meal. Pricey, but the car is still on the original clutch as far as I can tell. It's on its way out and there's no way it'll last. Light flywheel adds a few hundred but everything I hear says it's worth it. I'll likely do this before tackling anything further, in the above-mentioned spirit of incremental upgrades. Flyin' Miata cast manifold, outlet, and downpipe. That runs a teeth-gritting $750, but either that or the BEGI seem to be the only way to go for manifolds and getting it all together appears to be the best deal. Would love to find some of this used, but they don't seem to come up often. Not sure if I'll need the outlet with the turbo I'm planning. Which is a ISIS T25/T28. These seem to be well reviewed and are about as cheap as I can find without shady Ebay vendors. Apparently there used to be a good Godspeed turbo, but they quit making it and I can only find it with a 14.5 psi wastegate, which is too high for me to run useful boost control. The Isis is adjustable down to about 7.5psi. Which brings me to boost control, which the MS can handle with a $15 solenoid and little work. I think the sensible thing to do here is put all that kit in and run it at 7.5psi and no IC for a little while, again in the spirit of incremental upgrades. Then finally, when I'm happy with all that, add a CXRacing intercooler and cobble together some intake tubing. From what I've read, an intercooler is pretty much an intercooler, as long as it's big enough and of a sensible design. So I think I should be able to cheap out without compromising too much here. Then I should be able to wind up the boost -- and it'll probably be time to get out to a dyno to get the ignition map right. That leaves me with a few questions. First up, am I missing anything crucial? A BOV, maybe? Second, is that a reasonable plan considering budget? I'll spend out where necessary (clutch, manifold, ECU) but where workable cheap alternatives exist I've taken them. Third, what about the exhaust? Swapping the whole thing for a FM turbo exhaust is prohibitive, but is there anything I can do to free up some flow in what I have? Is running without a muffler at all feasible, or are there changes I could make to the FM muffler that'd make it more like the one they supply with the turbo exhaust? I know turbo cars tend to be much quieter than NA, and this isn't a daily driver.
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Feb 21, 2013 14:51
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Saint Gerald, if you go with that ISIS turbo the outlet should work with a little modification. Garrett changed the 5 bolt flange ever do slightly when they moved to the GT series, and that's what Flyin Miata builds to. I just bought that same manifold and downpipe kit to use with a rebuilt sr20 t25 (what the isis replaces). I had to elongate one bolt hole but it still seals just fine. Also i just bought a cx racing intercooler and will be piecing my own pipes together. If you want i can try and take pictures for you and let you know how it goes!
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Feb 21, 2013 20:52
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Solosilent posted:Saint Gerald, if you go with that ISIS turbo the outlet should work with a little modification. Garrett changed the 5 bolt flange ever do slightly when they moved to the GT series, and that's what Flyin Miata builds to. I just bought that same manifold and downpipe kit to use with a rebuilt sr20 t25 (what the isis replaces). I had to elongate one bolt hole but it still seals just fine. Also i just bought a cx racing intercooler and will be piecing my own pipes together. If you want i can try and take pictures for you and let you know how it goes! Yes please! We should compare notes, it sounds like we are working on very similar projects. What are you using for injectors/EMS?
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Feb 21, 2013 21:00
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saint gerald posted:Yes please! We should compare notes, it sounds like we are working on very similar projects. What are you using for injectors/EMS? I built a standalone Megasquirt 2 and am running the MSExtra code on it. I've got the RX8 blue (460cc? I think) injectors. I'm also running the diyautotune electronic boost control solenoid... well almost, I installed it last week and will be able to start doing something once I have an intercooler and charge piping to hold boost pressure. I've also got an Innovate LC1 wideband. My cars an early 95 with about 170k on it, so we basically have the same everything in our cars.
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Feb 22, 2013 05:00
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I'm so tempted to buy some RPF1's but it would be stupid until I do all it's maintenance and some suspension and body work. Also I only paid $1,200 for my '97 so spending just about that on wheels and tires seems a bit insane. I normally don't care at all about wheels, but these would reduce weight and look pretty drat cool. Convince me otherwise? ...But seriously where can I find 15X7 Gold RPF1's?
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Feb 22, 2013 15:35
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Second hand or buy 100 directly from Enkei.
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Feb 22, 2013 16:40
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Where can I buy a front bumper for 2006-2008? I hit an animal at the beginning of Jan, and still don't have it fixed; been strung along by online shops since then telling me they have the part when they really don't. This is a total loving headache. Any ideas? Red painted or primed.
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Feb 23, 2013 00:35
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The the Mazdaspeed one if it's still available: http://www.gomiata.com/20maspmipafr.html But don't buy from gomiata, they're kinda poo poo.
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Feb 23, 2013 01:25
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Could try one of the Miata part-out sites http://partsgroup.com/ http://isellmiataparts.com/ I don't see it on either of their sites right now but it might be worth emailing them
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Feb 23, 2013 02:43
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So I think I'm going to sell my hardtop so I can get a new soft top and shocks/springs, and I see the new craze are these Vmaxx coilovers that Flyin Miata sells, anyone hear about how horrible/not horrible they are? I haven't seen any dyno charts for them yet, but I sure as hell can't afford Xidas or even Fat Cats. Was thinking of going the Konis/ground control route but that combo including FM top hats and bump stops is over $1300! I can get a set of NB coverted Vmaxx coilovers for $700.
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Feb 24, 2013 03:00
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Do Racelands. I think they have better rebound than that.
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Feb 24, 2013 03:02
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My 99 Cali emissions car is killing me. I can not get P0421 to go away. 1) Put a stock intake back on 2) Cleaned MAF 3) Replaced rear O2 4) Replaced precat (found out it was damaged) with a header+ relocated O2 sensors 5) Replaced idle air control valve- (had a torn diaphragm) 6) New plugs and wires Drove it 50 miles last night and no code. Hop in it this morning, code after 10 minutes of driving. I have two days until the trip permit expires and I have to get it past emissions. Suggestions? *Edit- I'm going to check the O2 sensor voltages. The precat breaking up may have hurt the main cat now that I think about it. the spyder fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Feb 25, 2013 |
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Feb 25, 2013 23:46
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Phone posted:Do Racelands. I think they have better rebound than that. I'm debating getting some for my NA. I had them on my E46 and they were harsh as gently caress but drat if they didn't make for some excellent cornering ability. I won't be daily driving it so for $350, why not...
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Feb 26, 2013 17:45
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I might have an opportunity to get a set of 1994 R-Package Bilsteins and Springs for around $200. They've got 80k on them, and the owner says they may need new bushings. I'm debating picking them up, getting some FCM bumpstops for them and putting them on to replace my 109k OEM shocks. Would this be an upgrade worth doing, or would I be better off saving for some Tokico+FM springs, or another popular aftermarket setup? This would be affordable enough for me to be able to buy a set of bigger swaybars while I'm at it too.
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Feb 26, 2013 18:03
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I would jump on that deal. Get some GC's or FM springs to go with them and you'll be good to go. Also don't forget FM top hats for the rear shocks. The more I read about these cheap coil overs the less I'm convinced it's a good idea. Think I'm gonna go with Bilsteins myself, thinking about getting NB HD's and doing the NB conversion. [edit] also I've had bad experiences with Tokico and have sworn never to waste money on them.
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Feb 26, 2013 18:11
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There's a vast wasteland of options between 500 and 2000, and I feel it's a waste of money. If you are doing stock class autocross, swap out the shocks for something like Koni yellows. If you want a cheap coilover, pick up a set of Racelands. Then you can waste your money and time on FM, GC or whatever and wind up with a giant compromise. $1k doesn't buy a nice setup. If you want a nice setup, you can get on a FCM group buy, or just fork over the money for Xidas. It's pricey, but it's night and day between a proper coilover and some FM Tokico bullshit.
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Feb 26, 2013 18:44
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Oh trust me I know, but I support a family and spending over 2k on coilovers is impossible to justify at this point. My Miata is going to be a budget build in every sense of the word, and budget doesn't go with FCM or Xida unfortunately I'm probably just going to keep an eye on classifieds locally and get a used setup, like a set of Bilsteins/Konis and then some GC's. May take some time but shouldn't be too hard. And it will still be miles better than oem.
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Feb 26, 2013 18:54
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What's this car actually worth? I'm thinking not more than like $4500 right? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3639483844.html 
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Feb 26, 2013 21:25
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A white 91 with an intact paint job is pretty nice. Mine looks like a cow with cancer. If you get that, sell me the steering wheel.
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Feb 26, 2013 21:27
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A white 91 with an intact paint job is pretty nice. Mine looks like a cow with cancer. It's been repainted. Probably at Maaco.
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Feb 26, 2013 21:31
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If everything checks out, I'd say $4500 is fair. The chassis has a poo poo load of miles and mods don't increase a car's worth. It seems to be legit seeing how he posted it on CL.
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Feb 26, 2013 21:33
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Yeah, I can see that. It's just nice to see a white car without all of its paint flaking off - probably it is indeed a Maaco/Scheib job but that's for you to check in person. Looks like he has one of those hood popper things that Civics put on as well. $4500 sounds fair; I paid $3500 for my 91 with spares and it is in a lot rougher state than that.
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Feb 26, 2013 21:33
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Hog Obituary posted:What's this car actually worth? I'm thinking not more than like $4500 right? seller says - oem hardtop - open diff - only 1 track day, and 6 auto-x events - timing belt, starter, water pump, and alternator were replaced with the motor. - clean title I dunno, NA6 with an open diff and those miles might be worth like $2500, add an extra grand for the HT. The rest of the difference comes from aftermarket parts? Seats, roll bar, wheels, suspension... I guess it adds up and it's mostly stuff I would make use of. What I actually want is a '94-'95 with a torsen, hardtop, roll bar, fixed-back bucket seat, and some Xida CS coils and matching sway bars (I assume I'll have to buy the suspension my self).
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Feb 27, 2013 00:38
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Hold out for something with a LSD. If you're looking to make a trackcar you want to find someone's unloved beater, not someone's special snowflake 'race car.' You'll be replacing/upgrading almost all of the wear items anyhow and with a Mazdaspeed account it doesn't cost terribly much.
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Feb 27, 2013 04:40
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Korwen posted:I might have an opportunity to get a set of 1994 R-Package Bilsteins and Springs for around $200. They've got 80k on them, and the owner says they may need new bushings. I'm debating picking them up, getting some FCM bumpstops for them and putting them on to replace my 109k OEM shocks. I'd look into having the shocks rebuilt.
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Feb 27, 2013 05:16
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Hog Obituary posted:What's this car actually worth? I'm thinking not more than like $4500 right? Bumpstops and top hats do not make FCM coilovers. If it actually had that the car would be worth it probably. Personally, I would not buy a 1.6 Miata unless it was really really cheap. [edit] that's probably the exact same shock setup I'm gonna end up with
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Feb 27, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 06:17
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leica posted:Bumpstops and top hats do not make FCM coilovers.
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Feb 27, 2013 06:34
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No you shouldn't have your 95m. I did and I still regret it Although mine was perfect so I was afraid to drive it.
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Feb 27, 2013 16:35
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Does the exhaust have to come off to replace the clutch? If so, it'd make sense to do the two at the same time, right? I was planning to do clutch before tackling the turbo, in order to give the clutch some break-in time and reduce potential troubleshooting complexity, but if that doesn't make sense from a workflow point of view then I'll just take the lot on at once I guess.
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Feb 27, 2013 16:56
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saint gerald posted:Does the exhaust have to come off to replace the clutch?
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Feb 27, 2013 22:20
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destructo posted:Seeing as taking the exhaust off is 1% of the work that doing the clutch is, I don't know why you're even thinking about it. Fair enough. Seeing as it's probably rusted on there pretty good I was thinking it'd take a while to get off. But if it's been off to do the clutch, it ought to come off easily to do the downpipe etc.
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Feb 28, 2013 00:05
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So it's time for me to replace the tires on my trusty 99 Miata. I figure I should get some nice wheels for it as well. I really enjoy the sunken look of some wheels I've seen on other miatas, but I have no idea how to go about achieving that look. Enkei Rfp-1's look real nice and seem to be quite lightweight, but I don't know what size tire would help my car look wider.
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Feb 28, 2013 07:39
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Ninjafix posted:So it's time for me to replace the tires on my trusty 99 Miata. I figure I should get some nice wheels for it as well. Konig Wideopen is the Enkei RPF1 knock-off seen on that white miata craigslist ad I posted. See here: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Parts/Miata/Wheels-Tires/Wheels.html 15x8 25mm offset is going to get you a nice wide fit, but you will have to roll your fenders and perhaps lose your fender liners to keep it from rubbing. This is a little stupid for a street car that you don't want to mess about with too much, but will probably get you the look you want. Goodwin Racing says: quote:From our friends at Konig comes this new heat treated 15x8 with 25mm offset and 4x100 bolt pattern WIDE fitment Miata wheel. YES, this aggressive fitment requires a substantial fender lip roll for Miata fitment...but worth it for the same FAST offset that has proven fastest in Spec Miata. Fits brakes on all 1990 through 2005 Miatas...and fits our BIG BRAKE kits!
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Feb 28, 2013 08:14
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Hog Obituary posted:Konig Wideopen is the Enkei RPF1 knock-off seen on that white miata craigslist ad I posted. Those gold ones look awesome but I don't know about this fender rolling nonsense...
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Feb 28, 2013 13:21
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Fender rolling isn't a big deal really, I'd be more concerned about losing the fender liners because Miatas already have problems with debris and water getting into the rockers and behind fenders. I'd like to see some pics of Miatas with 25mm offset, I know "flush" sounds like a fad but it does look the best honestly. Right now my Miata with stock wheels and oem mud flaps looks kinda silly with all the wheel gap and the flaps sticking out way past the edge of the tires. Some 15" wheels with the right tires and offset would make it look ten times better. Not to mention handling improvement.
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Feb 28, 2013 17:59
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I wasn't thinking of anything too drastic. My concern is mainly handling and tire rub if I were to choose from the enkeis with 41mm offset vs 35mm. if going 35mm with 205/50 tires won't require rolling and whatnot I might go this route.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:27
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This one looks nice, but I don't know about $5k :/ http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3647985009.html
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Feb 28, 2013 21:03
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It's a good looking car (though it looks like it could do with a clay barring and a wax) but I don't think there's anything really special about it that justifies 5k in your local market. I'm guessing it's not a street car as most street cars have not been professionally corner balanced, though maybe the average Miata owner is a little different. It must be interesting owning both a (baby) Hummer and an NA.
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Feb 28, 2013 21:30
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Hog Obituary posted:This one looks nice, but I don't know about $5k :/ aaaaa I just spotted that on CL right now and was gonna post it here, too. Although KBB is not the definitive guide, it states that the Miata in that ad is $4k, max. It looks really nice, though, and considering how lovely the used car market is here in the bay area, it might not be a bad buy. Did you see the white '97 going for 3.8 in Hayward? I think it's double the mileage, but it looks to be in pretty good shape, too.
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Feb 28, 2013 22:24
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