|
So I did some basic OC of my 3570k on stock cooler. I bumped it up to ~4.2Ghz Running prime05 right now and getting 81 degrees max temp on 100% load. Core coltage i at 1.17v at most. Is this a decent start? Seems stable so far, although it seems like my voltage I set in bios was overridden by some auto setting or something.
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 11:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 20:49 |
|
|
That is a really high temperature by about 10 degrees. Consider backing off on that. Also consider making sure the cooler is pushed all the way in, although it's more likely just not able to take care of a significant overclock.
Cavauro fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Feb 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 12:18
|
|
|
Yeah, the stock cooler really can't handle more than 4 GHz. Good news is you can probably lower the voltage a decent amount at 4.0~4.1 and recover a little temperature breathing room. So yeah! Good start. Now get tweaking. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 12:52
|
|
|
What sort of temperatures should I aim for? Using this clock I get to about 55 degrees C whilst playing games. Tj. Max is 105. Before the overclock idle was at 29 degrees C and 100% load got to 68. I think that the bios auto overclocker did push it up to 3.8Ghz when "stock" though. Edit: Ok this time it peaked at 72 degrees. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Feb 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 13:51
|
|
|
The spec you want to shoot for is the CPU's Tcase, which is about 72 C. That's the temperature as measured at the heatspreader. Out of caution, we tend to recommend that no individual core exceed Tcase, either, if you can manage it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 14:07
|
|
|
Factory Factory posted:The spec you want to shoot for is the CPU's Tcase, which is about 72 C. That's the temperature as measured at the heatspreader. Out of caution, we tend to recommend that no individual core exceed Tcase, either, if you can manage it. I see. If what I read on the internets is correct, Tcase is what SpeedFan labels as "CPU". I put the multiplier down a bit to x 40. After 1½h of Prime95 (maximum heat torture test) CPU is at 49 degrees, the cores are at ~73 with a max of 76 degrees. Vcore is at 1.056 and I used the offset mode with -0.045. No errors or warnings. I read about people turning down the pll voltage to reduce heat, but I can only put it at auto or +0.10v in my BIOS (I've got a ASUS p8z77-V LX) Also, wow are these new BIOSes different from what I had on my old computer.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 16:43
|
|
|
I'd use HWiNFO64 instead of Speedfan. It's the most consistently-accurate hardware monitoring program. You're not going to get a package temperature of 49 C when the cores are running at 73-76, so that suggests Speedfan is gettings its wires crossed somewhere. Also, I think most of us just check the cores directly for Tcase and ignore the generalized "CPU" temperature. The thermal diodes at each core are more accurate than the package sensor.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 17:04
|
|
|
GB_Sign posted:Was reading through the OP (well still reading through it really) and I noticed this bit:
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 16:23
|
|
|
Y'know, I never get positive/negative pressure right with respect to case fans. And I mean that very strongly - whatever position I take is wrong. I was specifically corrected on that during drafting. But since I have changed it, it's now my new answer and therefore it is wrong.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 16:50
|
|
|
I never think much about negative or positive pressure. I have a can of dust off to handle dust. My fan considerations are driven by a combination of "I think heat will collect here. put an exhaust there." (rear and top of case) and "I want cool air blowing over my GPU's or hard drives, so I'll use intake fans near them." (Side and front panel). There is sort of a zen thing going on too, where you stare into your case and say "with this fan setup, how will the air flow?" If I had to pick, my gut says you want positive pressure in the case, as the incoming cool air will force hot air to be exhausted. In reality I don't think it makes a big difference unless you have a very exotic setup, or have installed your fans like an idiot.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 22:47
|
|
|
SocketSeven posted:I never think much about negative or positive pressure. I have a can of dust off to handle dust. The benefit to positive pressure is that you can filter all the intakes and you know its not pulling dust from elsewhere.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 22:49
|
|
|
I am going to make a concerted effort to set up a positive pressure effect on my new build. Mainly for the reason stated above. We have 2 cats, so between dust and cat hair having a negative pressure setup just means more work for me to keep everything clean. As for actual Overclocking, is there any problem with the Asus P8Z77-V LK motherboard?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 23:16
|
|
|
Don Lapre posted:The benefit to positive pressure is that you can filter all the intakes and you know its not pulling dust from elsewhere. Good point. My dust filters collect a lot of crap, to the point I clean them monthly. I still end up needing to use dust-off on the internal heatsink fans though. Ah well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 23:32
|
|
|
GB_Sign posted:I am going to make a concerted effort to set up a positive pressure effect on my new build. Mainly for the reason stated above. We have 2 cats, so between dust and cat hair having a negative pressure setup just means more work for me to keep everything clean. It's not a heavy overclocker. It only uses a 4-phase VRM, so you're going to hit a practical heat/volt limit around the 4-4.2 GHz mark, plus or minus some depending on your chip. If you want a step higher, the -LE version is a 6-phase VRM, and the vanilla P8Z77-V is as good as you will ever need for any achievable 24/7 overclock. If you don't mind hopping brands, the MSI Z77A-GD55 has a VRM section about on par with the P8Z77-V but has a really competitive price.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2013 11:16
|
|
|
I flipped the top fan on my 650D to intake and slapped one of those demciflex filters on it a while back and the case interior is near pristine, which I attribute to both positive pressure and having all filtered intakes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2013 15:48
|
|
|
Dogen posted:I flipped the top fan on my 650D to intake and slapped one of those demciflex filters on it a while back and the case interior is near pristine, which I attribute to both positive pressure and having all filtered intakes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 05:54
|
|
|
Just for fun, let's look at a review of one of those hyper-premium overclockers' boards, the $400 Gigabyte Z77X-UP7. This board has over $100 of VRM phases alone, with 32 phases featuring Gigabyte's 60A parts for up to 2,000W deliverable to the CPU. Add in to that a PCIe switch to allow up to x8/x8/x8/x8 bifurcation, seven fan headers, every discrete video output that the Ivy Bridge IGP will support for some reason, and a bunch of other crap but no Thunderbolt, the WiFi isn't integrated, and that's what Gigabyte thinks is worth $400. And it's pretty darn orange. Let's skip ahead. What does this get you clock-wise? 4.9 GHz with a 500W power limit and 1.375V in the BIOS/1.356V Vcore. 4.8 GHz was a much more acceptable 1.284V Vcore. For perspective, the ASRock Z77 OC Formula and MSI Z77 Mpower did 4.8 GHz at even lower Vcore, and they're ~$215-ish boards with 12-phase (ASRock) and 16-phase (MSI) VRMs. And, like, that's about it. Otherwise, it's just this motherboard, and it's orange. The top Ivy Bridge CPU ever overclocked hit 6.6 GHz at 1.9V/600W. In other words, using about 1/6th the amperage that this board can theoretically provide. It's a really dumb board. In a number of ways, it's inferior feature-wise to Gigabyte's own G1.Sniper 3, which is cheaper. And not orange. Conclusion: A ludicrous VRM section is still stupidly not worthwhile.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 17:51
|
|
|
Holy poo poo 6.6GHz? How is that possible to have 1.9V and not have the chip explode?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 18:13
|
|
|
Heatsink, probably. (It sure as hell would have without it. *May not be legit, but either way it's amusing.) But yes, overclocks like that are called suicide runs for a reason. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 18:20
|
|
|
Naan Bread posted:Holy poo poo 6.6GHz? How is that possible to have 1.9V and not have the chip explode?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
OK, put my stock setup through the paces to make sure it is good and stable. I think I am ready to start overclocking CPU and GPU. Right now the OP says updates are pending for the Ivy Bridge setup, is there anything special that needs to be taken into account other than what is stated for overclocking Sandy bridge? I thought I remembered reading that IVB should be limited to 1.2V-1.25V? Also, is it better to focus on CPU and then GPU or the other way around?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 01:48
|
|
|
GB_Sign posted:OK, put my stock setup through the paces to make sure it is good and stable. I think I am ready to start overclocking CPU and GPU. Right now the OP says updates are pending for the Ivy Bridge setup, is there anything special that needs to be taken into account other than what is stated for overclocking Sandy bridge? I thought I remembered reading that IVB should be limited to 1.2V-1.25V? Also, is it better to focus on CPU and then GPU or the other way around? 1) The OP hasn't been updated but this post in the thread has what you want: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3465021&pagenumber=9#post403126848 2) Doesn't really matter, just don't do both at the same time. Get one stable and then do the other.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 03:14
|
|
|
Should one of my goals be to lower the CPU voltage as much as possible to be stable at a given overclock? I've noticed that just raising the FSB/CPU-NB with my Athlon II XP will result in the motherboard/BIOS giving a higher VCORE than what I can use and be stable, so I've gone to lower the voltage step-wise and test stability. It was neat to see the effects of undervolting the CPU and how it affected the software, too. Right now, I have X4 645 3.1 Ghz stock running at 3.5 Ghz with about 1.28V that seems stable but originally, the BIOS was giving it like 1.45V.
Stevor fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Mar 5, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 15:20
|
|
|
Stevor posted:Should one of my goals be to lower the CPU voltage as much as possible to be stable at a given overclock? I've noticed that just raising the FSB/CPU-NB with my Athlon II XP will result in the motherboard/BIOS giving a higher VCORE than what I can use and be stable, so I've gone to lower the voltage step-wise and test stability. It was neat to see the effects of undervolting the CPU and how it affected the software, too. Right now, I have X4 645 3.1 Ghz stock running at 3.5 Ghz with about 1.28V that seems stable but originally, the BIOS was giving it like 1.45V. The lower stable voltage you can run the better as you will produce less heat.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 15:48
|
|
|
Don Lapre posted:The lower stable voltage you can run the better as you will produce less heat. That's what I figured, thanks. It was just curious that the BIOS tries to give the chip much more power than it needed at the given bus speed... not sure if I fully trust my mobo's BIOS anyway seeing as how it includes the phrase "Memory Timming".
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 15:59
|
|
|
Hey ya'll. I seem to be getting crashes about once a week while gaming, specifically Planetside 2. This was after some spot testing and long-term stability testing. I gave my memory a run-through and everything seems to check out. I'm a bit suspicious about things overheating though I can't imagine that not cropping up during a linpack. I can't really think of anything that would cause it that wouldn't be picked up during testing, it's definitely 100% stable on stock though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 03:53
|
|
|
Is 3.8ghz a good overclock for a phenom II x6 1090t? I've also been able to get it to 4 with two cores disabled. Wondering if anyone else has been able to get it past that on air without any issues?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 20:27
|
|
|
Jawtramp posted:Is 3.8ghz a good overclock for a phenom II x6 1090t? I've also been able to get it to 4 with two cores disabled. Wondering if anyone else has been able to get it past that on air without any issues? I used to have the 960T, that's about as good as it's gonna get without water cooling. I couldn't even get mine to be stable on all 6 cores, just 5 at 3.9GHz. Dealing with chips like those are completely luck of the draw though so your experience might be a little better.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 22:06
|
|
|
If you're running a 64-bit OS, 4 GHz is literally the most it will ever go, at around 1.45V +/-.25. In theory, you could do that on air, but unless you have a crazy cooler like a Noctua NH-D14, I wouldn't count on it. I'd call that solid, though. Sandy Bridge has spoiled us on things like "measly" 18% overclocks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 22:09
|
|
|
Factory Factory posted:If you're running a 64-bit OS, 4 GHz is literally the most it will ever go, at around 1.45V +/-.25. In theory, you could do that on air, but unless you have a crazy cooler like a Noctua NH-D14, I wouldn't count on it. The Celeron 300a spoiled me on things like "measly" 68% overclocks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 22:17
|
|
|
I just installed the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus on my I5-3570k. It was my first time installing an aftermarket cooler, and I'm not totally confident that I did a very good job. According to coretemp at 100% load, core #1 reached the highest temp at 55c. This is at stock speeds. I suppose I just expected lower overall temperatures. Can I expect to get slightly better results once the thermal paste sets in or should I consider remounting? Ambient temperature right now is probably around 72F. I'm using this case with four Rosewill 120mm fans CFM 74.48: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146078 CoreTemp Results: http://imgur.com/bc07uU6 Any help or advice is appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 23:37
|
|
|
ISUCHARESLOLO posted:I just installed the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus on my I5-3570k. It was my first time installing an aftermarket cooler, and I'm not totally confident that I did a very good job. According to coretemp at 100% load, core #1 reached the highest temp at 55c. This is at stock speeds. I suppose I just expected lower overall temperatures. Can I expect to get slightly better results once the thermal paste sets in or should I consider remounting? Are you running your fans at 100%? Most of the time things are setup so the fans are controlled by temperature. 55c is well within temperature boundaries so there is no reason to run the fans up to make it cooler for the sake of extra noise.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 23:41
|
|
|
poo poo yo, it's a fuckin' air cooling throwdown at AnandTech. The CM Hyper 212 EVO and Noctua NH-D14 get a test in earnest, alongside the NH-L12 (low-profile), NH-L9i (mini), SilverStone Heligon HE01, and be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2. Does the common wisdom about air vs. closed-loop liquid cooling hold up?!?!!! NO The CM Hyper 212 EVO is still a price/performance beast, even edging out the much larger Heligon HE01, and the air coolers in general can offer some really buff performance, but the current gen of closed-loop liquid coolers are pretty darn competitive on noise and cooling performance. Price/performance is a little wackier, but really that's because the 212 EVO is just on a completely different level than everything else.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2013 20:06
|
|
|
Factory Factory posted:poo poo yo, it's a fuckin' air cooling throwdown at AnandTech. The CM Hyper 212 EVO and Noctua NH-D14 get a test in earnest, alongside the NH-L12 (low-profile), NH-L9i (mini), SilverStone Heligon HE01, and be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2. Does the common wisdom about air vs. closed-loop liquid cooling hold up?!?!!! I finally got around to using a 212+ the other day that I had in storage. It was actually really easy to install, although running Thermalright heatsinks for years probably contributed to that. It's a shame they didn't have any Thermalright heatsinks to test against though, since most of them compare with the higher-end Noctua models (plus I like graphs).
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 00:29
|
|
|
grumperfish posted:That's a neat article. The H80-tier of liquid coolers still doesn't look that impressive, although those NZXT coolers are interesting. Shame that they're still outperformed when it comes to noise - not sure if it's the restrictive tubing or the radiators doing that though. Corsair's higher-end closed-loop coolers look like they'd be really nice for an ITX build however. I just like that the difference between $100 air coolers and $30 air coolers is about 5c at load. I'm gonna stick with this 212 EVO until I build something worth water cooling.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 13:23
|
|
|
Cool article. For years now I've been thinking that Liquid cooling is a waste of time for a performance system (this coincidentally started when my water cooling rig leaked and blew up a motherboard  ) . A good liquid cooling loop can be way more efficient quietly, but I think that we've reached a point where you're starting to be limited by how fast you can get heat out of the die and into the copper itself. I think we're stating to see bottleneck is no longer removing heat from the base of the sink itself. Seems that article agrees with me. Nice to have some validation on my wild speculation.Time to break out the Peltiers and watch the electric bill skyrocket.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 15:27
|
|
|
I'm now even more interested in the Swiftech 220 (the newer one)
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 15:51
|
|
|
Peltier? Was the Sim City launch that bad?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 17:23
|
|
|
I'm not sure I follow. I'm just trying to say that if you want any serious decease in temps, you have to go beyond the realm of just liquid cooling and into the wacky land of thermoelectric cooling.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 19:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 20:49 |
|
|
I think I'm maybe really dumb or something. I got a 3570K processor, Hyper 212 evo cooler, and an Asus P8Z77-V LX motherboard, thinking I would look up an overclocking guide or something and it would be really simple. And from what I can tell, it is pretty simple... but every guide seems to be written for max speeds at all times. I just want to boost up the "turbo" speed so it runs fast when it needs to, but slow and cool when it can, and meanwhile not kill my chip. Now, I went into the BIOS just to test around, and I set it to a 40x multiplier on all 4 cores and set the CPU voltage to "offset" mode and set the offset to +0.005 or whatever the smallest is. When I run Prime95, it does boost up to 4ghz and runs at 1.6ghz at idle like I want. It seems to be pulling a core voltage of 1.192 under load and peaks up to 70.0C on core 2 but not any higher. The voltage when idling is right at or under 1.000 V. Is this good? I really don't know. Is that really all I have to do? Can I just turn up the multiplier to 42 now and say I'm done if it continues to run at about that temperature? I know it seems like I haven't read the thread or done any research, but I have, I just have a very poor grasp on this stuff it would seem.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2013 20:39
|
|
