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goddamnedtwisto posted:It also tells me what gear I'm in and I still don't understand why anyone cares about that. I like gear indicators. They allow me to not count shifts when downshifting and keep me from trying to shift into 7th. For example, before I put a gear indicator on the sprint, I couldn't tell 5th from 6th and if I was rolling up to a stop sign while in 5th/6th and wanted to shift down to 2nd, it wasn't too hard for me to accidentally end up in either 3rd, N or 1st instead... You can do totally fine without an indicator and it's far from "needed" but it is convenient to have one.
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Mar 4, 2013 13:54
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I like em too. When you get up to 6 speeds, I can't keep track of them. I got used to having one on my old K-bike and it kind of annoys me that my newer Ducati doesn't have one.
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Mar 4, 2013 14:29
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I think SageBrush, (sorry if I'm putting words in your mouth!), pointed out that you can usually tell roughly what gear you're in from your rev counter and speed. Due to one of your gears usually being close to direct drive. On my SV it works out pretty well; 6 = 1000 under (so 4000rpm about 50mph) 5 = 500 under 4 = approx mph 3 = 500ish over I don't know if this is the same for everyone's bike though as I've only got experience of mine! 
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Mar 4, 2013 14:47
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I think SageBrush, (sorry if I'm putting words in your mouth!), pointed out that you can usually tell roughly what gear you're in from your rev counter and speed. Due to one of your gears usually being close to direct drive. That won't necessarially work on my Husky with it's digital speedo(although, I can usually judge because in 6th gear, the percentage of the rev range I'm using is roughly the same as the speed I'm going (i.e. 50% to redline, 50 mph)). It's not like trying to shift into 7th gear is bad, just mildly annoying.
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Mar 4, 2013 15:39
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Been trying to find 7th gear on my 250 nearly every day for 2 years now. I still can't quite get it.
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Mar 4, 2013 15:48
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Kick harder.
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Mar 4, 2013 16:13
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McTinkerson posted:I have the BS38's from my XS500 torn apart and the supposedly correct rebuild kits for them. I am however not so sure the internet was correct. Would those that have worked on the Mikuni BS series care to take a look and set me straight? Yeah as far as I can tell that looks right. It looks to have everything you need there. I see the bowl gasket, pilot screw, float valve, main and pilot jets. The spring looks like the one that goes on the idle screw. I'm not sure what the small gasket and the brass rod are for but that shouldn't be hard to figure out (or maybe for a different application?). Thought I could be of more help, I could put a BS34 together blindfolded but this is a completely different animal.
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Mar 4, 2013 16:13
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I use my gear indicator all the time because telling third from second and second from first isn't super obvious. Fourth and fifth are pretty similar too. On smaller bikes that make 50 horsepower it's probably less necessary because it's a lot easier to tell which gear its in from engine response.
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Mar 4, 2013 16:45
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I just ride by feel, I don't need a gear indicator to keep shifting up until I can't.
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Mar 4, 2013 17:00
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Only thing I'd really use a gear indicator for is to keep from checking for 7th on the highway. It'd be nice but it's certainly not a big deal. I like having things like instant fuel economy / distance remaining on the tank a lot more.
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Mar 4, 2013 17:04
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Gear indicators are one of those things that if you've never had one its no big deal, I always just got use to X mph at X rpms is X gear. But my current motorcycle has one, and I check it all the drat time. It went on the fritz the other day (known problem when water gets into the switch) and I was completely lost, I had never learned the mph::rpm on this bike, resulting in my jamming it into first while moving a couple times, which this transmission really doesn't like.
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Mar 4, 2013 18:51
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I just want a display that when I try to shift into 6th it shows me a flashing bar/shield and middle finger.
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Mar 4, 2013 18:54
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Someone should make a system that when you try to shift to phantom 7th it just holds the rpms where they were. Then you could just clutch out with no issue. Middle finger indicator at the same time would help. Maybe a  too.
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Mar 4, 2013 19:13
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I listen for engine note for shifting and often don't look at the tach. (On my BMW it's different grades of sewing machine). But, yeah, something to say "6th gear" would be nice. So would a fuel gage. 
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Mar 4, 2013 19:59
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MoraleHazard posted:So would a fuel gage. 
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Mar 4, 2013 20:05
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MoraleHazard posted:So would a fuel gage. Just got my first bike with a fuel gauge, it's bitchin. The clear desert tank on the DRZ was nice though, I could see my fuel level.
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Mar 4, 2013 20:20
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If you guys rode shifty scooters you'd know what gear you were in based on the angle of the clutch lever in relation to the grip, without looking. I have never sought a non-existent 5th.nsaP posted:You have a trip odometer, right? Or at least a lifetime odo? Figure out your average gas mileage and use your odometer. I have bikes with gauges and I don't really use them because they're so inaccurate. This is what I do. My scooter's original speedo/odo failed shortly after I got the bike, and the fuel gauge was powered off AC and showed different levels depending on where the RPMs were (like showing empty at idle, 1/3 at speed). Putting on an accurate speedo/odo is better than that gauge ever was. Gay Nudist Dad fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Mar 4, 2013 |
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Mar 4, 2013 20:30
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MoraleHazard posted:I listen for engine note for shifting and often don't look at the tach. (On my BMW it's different grades of sewing machine). You have a trip odometer, right? Or at least a lifetime odo? Figure out your average gas mileage and use your odometer. I have bikes with gauges and I don't really use them because they're so inaccurate. Gay Nudist Dad posted:If you guys rode shifty scooters you'd know what gear you were in based on the angle of the clutch lever in relation to the grip, without looking. I have never sought a non-existent 5th. lol
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Mar 4, 2013 20:31
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I reset my Trip 1 every time I fill up with fuel and I reset Trip 2 when I change the oil. Works for me, and is about the extent of fancy electronic goodies on the Ulysses. I usually can anticipate the reserve light within 10 miles accuracy.
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Mar 4, 2013 20:32
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clutchpuck posted:I reset my Trip 1 every time I fill up with fuel and I reset Trip 2 when I change the oil. Works for me, and is about the extent of fancy electronic goodies on the Ulysses. I usually can anticipate the reserve light within 10 miles accuracy. I don't like that reserve is like 1/5th of the tank tho.
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Mar 4, 2013 20:51
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clutchpuck posted:I reset my Trip 1 every time I fill up with fuel and I reset Trip 2 when I change the oil. Works for me, and is about the extent of fancy electronic goodies on the Ulysses. I usually can anticipate the reserve light within 10 miles accuracy. I do the same with Trip1. I'm saving Trip 2 to tell how many miles I've put on the bike since I got it last year. Just over 3500, another 2500 and I'll have put more on it than its first owner. I see some longer trips in my near future
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Mar 4, 2013 21:02
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nsaP posted:You have a trip odometer, right? Or at least a lifetime odo? Figure out your average gas mileage and use your odometer. I have bikes with gauges and I don't really use them because they're so inaccurate. I fill up every hundred miles. I've been doing that ever since I discovered that the reserve light on my Husky stopped illuminating. It's annoying.
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Mar 4, 2013 21:14
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Someone convince me that buying a local Aprilia RS 50 for $150 and rebuilding the motor is a bad idea.
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Mar 4, 2013 22:48
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I've wasted more money on less before.
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Mar 4, 2013 22:50
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Diametunim posted:Someone convince me that buying a local Aprilia RS 50 for $150 and rebuilding the motor is a bad idea. Are you located in TX by chance? There's the same thing for sale very close to me that I just found on craigslist  I'm tempted but this one has no title...
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Mar 5, 2013 00:40
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Safety Dance posted:I fill up every hundred miles. I've been doing that ever since I discovered that the reserve light on my Husky stopped illuminating. It's annoying. Oh christ I just realised now that with my busted speedo the odometer method for fuel consumption won't work for me anymore. I'll just have to fll up every time the light comes on.
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Mar 5, 2013 00:46
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Diametunim posted:Someone convince me that buying a local Aprilia RS 50 for $150 and rebuilding the motor is a bad idea. Haha yeah right go buy the drat thing. poo poo for that much you shouldn't even think about it.
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Mar 5, 2013 01:14
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This is the one near me, looks like a fun job....
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Mar 5, 2013 01:29
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Ask if it comes with the fuel canister, lawn mower, and garbage can so you can set it on fire, chop it to pieces, and then throw it in the trash where it belongs.
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Mar 5, 2013 01:47
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hayden. posted:Ask if it comes with the fuel canister, lawn mower, and garbage can so you can set it on fire, chop it to pieces, and then throw it in the trash where it belongs. No need to; he just texted me back saying it was sold. I hope it was the other dude in the thread haha (who lives in the same town apparently  )
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Mar 5, 2013 02:06
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JP Money posted:Are you located in TX by chance? There's the same thing for sale very close to me that I just found on craigslist College Station bros? e: He didn't sell it to me, I hadn't heard back from him since the seller said he would send me pics of the bike. Double edit: Just saw that picture you posted JP. gently caress That, glad I didn't buy it.... Diametunim fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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Mar 5, 2013 02:15
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Are we still recommending SV-650s to new-again-to-motorcycle riders? Guy I work with is coming back from a deployment in a couple months with about $5000. He motocrossed dirtbikes until 14, when his uncle came off the top of the 700(!?) he was using and nearly died. The aunt sold the bike, and he hasn't been able to touch one in ~15 years. He wants "a sportbike, fast, over 900." I said he should get a speed triple or a daytona, and he agreed that he liked the look and the sound. He's already admitted that the only way he'd ride on the streets is full gear, most likely a two-piece full leather with full boots. After talking a bit more, I suggested an '08 SV-650 with GSX-R 600 front end. Hits the price range, and when he realizes that he wants to go stupid fast, he just takes that bike to the track with track plastics and takeoffs and has a wonderful time. I don't REALLY think he wants a huge sportbike; he autocrosses his v-6 turbo volkswagen, so I think nimble and responsive are more his style, versus rocket-powered death sled. His favorite roads for the 'wagen are around the Cascade mountains, all tight twisties. Is there a better recommendation?
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Mar 5, 2013 12:14
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I just had my front brake pads replaced in order for my bike to pass its MOT, is it normal for the front brakes to now feel effectively useless? The ride home just now was rather interesting.  I played around with it on the driveway for a bit once I got home and while the pads are touching the disc fine and it does stop the bike at a slow speed, the whole reaction feels extremely slow compared to how well they used to bite.Is this a completely normal thing which will wear off and am I just having newbie worries, or should I take it back? The notes from the repair sheet read "replace front brake pads, free off front brake, retest."
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Mar 5, 2013 12:24
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Sock Weasel posted:I just had my front brake pads replaced in order for my bike to pass its MOT, is it normal for the front brakes to now feel effectively useless? The ride home just now was rather interesting. You need to bed the brakes. Find a parking lot. 30mph to zero with as much bite as you can muster without washing the front five or six times, and you should be good. If ten repetitions of that doesn't work, then the shop put air in the lines somehow, and the brakes need to be bled. You can do that yourself, or have them do it for free because they screwed up.
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Mar 5, 2013 12:32
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If there is air in the lines the lever will feel spongy, if it otherwise feels hard you need to bed them in like babyeatingpsychopath says. I find that riding along a long straight road for a mile or two while gently dragging a little brake, followed by some progressively harder emergency braking maneuvres is a good way around it. Bonus is that you practice your emergency braking too.
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Mar 5, 2013 12:48
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Slight derail but is this the same with cars? I noticed when I had my pads replaced the other day I had a similar experience, they felt a lot less effective than the old ones for a few miles.
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Mar 5, 2013 12:50
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Yeah, same procedure to bed them in too. The discs/drums dont wear flat, they get grooved slightly. A fresh pad is flat, and so when it presses on the grooved disc it has much less surface area. Only way around it is doing discs and pads at the same time, which is usually unnecessary.
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Mar 5, 2013 12:56
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Good to know, thanks guys! I'll take the bike to my work car park after hours and see if I can get it sorted.
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Mar 5, 2013 13:13
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ReelBigLizard posted:If there is air in the lines the lever will feel spongy, if it otherwise feels hard you need to bed them in like babyeatingpsychopath says. I find that riding along a long straight road for a mile or two while gently dragging a little brake, followed by some progressively harder emergency braking maneuvres is a good way around it. Bonus is that you practice your emergency braking too. Dragging the brake like that will glaze sintered pads, you need to put a good ten or so heat cycles through them (60-10 then back up a few times will do it). Organic pads should be fine with your technique though.
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Mar 5, 2013 14:19
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Cheers RBL & Twisto. I'll file that away
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Mar 5, 2013 15:18
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