|
Lemming posted:There's also the Solidoodle 3 for $800 which has the same size build platform as the Printrbot Plus (8" cubed). Put in the order for the Solidoodle 3, expecting to see it by the end of April. I spent a little more of my tax return than I originally planned, but it seems worth the upgrade.
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2013 01:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 17:23 |
|
|
It seems that the 3Doodler has been thought of already, 3 years ago. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4156 Mr. Funny Pants posted:You can see one cable coming off of it in the first 15 seconds of the video and two (one red one black) at the :50 mark. The pen part barely sticks out of the thick handle; I think it's going to be much harder to burn yourself than with a hot glue gun. Truth; I should have watched it closer.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2013 15:52
|
|
|
Trabisnikof posted:Maybe I should just mount one of those on a Cartesian robot. You'd need to be able to control the feeding somewhat accurately.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2013 15:59
|
|
|
Anta posted:You'd need to be able to control the feeding somewhat accurately. Generally speaking, retraction got important for printing quality; Doesn't seem like a possibility with the pen.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2013 22:31
|
|
|
If anyone is in Toronto, tonight is the next monthly meetup for Toronto 3D Printers. It's free and everyone is welcome to come by. I'll be bringing my latest piece (finally painted):  (this is just before the final coat and sealant)
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
techknight posted:If anyone is in Toronto, tonight is the next monthly meetup for Toronto 3D Printers. It's free and everyone is welcome to come by. If you use a heavier latex based paint it will actually fill the layers and make it seem much more smooth, unless you are going for the 3d printed effect?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 00:18
|
|
|
Or you can just smear it with a thin layer of Bondo.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 03:41
|
|
|
There's a recent blog on acetone vapour treatment. It seems to provide a pretty smooth finish. If you've got the space and ventilation that might be a pretty interesting thing to try. I'd imagine doing bigger parts would be quite a pain though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 20:38
|
|
|
Linux Assassin posted:If you use a heavier latex based paint it will actually fill the layers and make it seem much more smooth, unless you are going for the 3d printed effect? I was going for a textured, stone effect using Krylon Make It Stone! without completely hiding the 3D printedness.. Unfortunately the White Onyx spray paint looks a little more like stucco to me. It looks pretty decent after the last coat and the sealer, but I think I will still touch up a few areas. A few people sent me that acetone vapour thing on Facebook this morning - looks awesome.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 05:55
|
|
|
techknight posted:I was going for a textured, stone effect using Krylon Make It Stone! without completely hiding the 3D printedness.. Unfortunately the White Onyx spray paint looks a little more like stucco to me. It looks pretty decent after the last coat and the sealer, but I think I will still touch up a few areas. Side note about boiling acetone; Try not to explode, vapors are bad. Also if you have a printed printer (Prusa mendel, mendelmax, etc) you should try not to melt the printer when you are boiling off the acetone.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 19:16
|
|
|
Boiling acetone is kind of the opposite of what I want to do when it comes to the realm of at-home 3D printing. Yikes. Sanding and filling things in with Bondo works, but Bondo is also pretty toxic, so I'm going to give Apoxie Sculpt a try later this week.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 19:33
|
|
|
A slightly safer method is to use a cheap steamer. No risk melting your printer, the vapor is contained, and you can run it in a garage / outside if ignition is a concern. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/448/diy-smoothing-station-ii/
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 20:50
|
|
|
Locus posted:Boiling acetone is kind of the opposite of what I want to do when it comes to the realm of at-home 3D printing. Yikes. It's okay, I've got a makerspace I can do it at so that I endanger the maximum number of people.  Locus posted:Sanding and filling things in with Bondo works, but Bondo is also pretty toxic, so I'm going to give Apoxie Sculpt a try later this week. I really like Apoxie Sculpt. I've used it to fill in janky overhangs, and got a decent metal foil look with it on Cupcake Alexander. Some tips: - Mix less than you think you need - After thoroughly mixing it, let it sit for 15 minutes to reduce the tack-y feel - Gloves are recommended when doing the initial mixing, but once that's done it's fine barehand unless you have an allergy
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 22:12
|
|
|
Locus posted:Boiling acetone is kind of the opposite of what I want to do when it comes to the realm of at-home 3D printing. Yikes. I pour ABS Juice on my heated bed regularly. Acetone boils at like 120F(50C) at my altitude, so the bed is merely pretty warm to the touch when stuff starts foaming off. I don't see any reason to run the reaction at 100C. Why not 70C in a pre-heated vessel?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2013 22:17
|
|
|
I was going to order a thermistor for my HBP, when I remembered that I have one of these in my bits box. So if I can just use this one I don't need to go through the hassle of ordering a single tiny £1 component. I'm having trouble working out how to work out the temperature table for it, but looking at the reprap wiki it looks like it has almost identical specs to the RRRF 10K resistor with the following table:code:BetaTherm 10K Leaded Thermistor posted:THERMISTOR, NTC
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 13:47
|
|
|
Apparently someone got the $40,000 for the <$250 filament extruder
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 20:33
|
|
|
After months of deliberation, I finally ordered my Replicator 2 on Feb 22nd after my lovely tax return came in. Since it was 6 weeks out, I started ordering PLA and other misc supplies for crafting my costume props and trinkets. (By the way, any recommendation for PLA primers/finishers?) Lo and behold, last Thursday I received a shipping notification from Makerbot NYC. Glad I already have 5 spools, 3 commissioned 3D objects(thank you durpadurp), and a metal spatula at home 'cause the Replicator is getting here this Friday. I think I've done enough research to prepare myself for the inevitable headache from setup, maintenance, and troubleshooting oh god why x happening. Either way, I'm exceedingly excited to join your ranks and already have a huge number of friends lining up to have me print things out for them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 21:46
|
|
|
You know when you draw something up in CAD, and you don't really get a sense of the true scale of the thing until you start getting the parts together...  EDIT: yes it's a picture of my screen because I was in a rush and my little keyboard doesn't have a print screen button. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Mar 5, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 15:10
|
|
|
I ordered a Replicator 2 about 3 weeks ago, and was surprised to have it show up today. Unfortunately something is wonky and it reboots itself any time I try to do anything involving heating the extruder (even trying to load filament). I have a support ticket put in for it, but this is so depressing 
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 01:52
|
|
|
Pez posted:I ordered a Replicator 2 about 3 weeks ago, and was surprised to have it show up today. Unfortunately something is wonky and it reboots itself any time I try to do anything involving heating the extruder (even trying to load filament). I have a support ticket put in for it, but this is so depressing Sounds like something is shorted to me. Maybe it got messed up in shipment.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 03:08
|
|
|
Got to print a T-Rex on the multi-material Objet 500 at work this week:   Object source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:57272 I love my job.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 04:05
|
|
|
Dang! How many cubic centimeters of material is that?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 04:12
|
|
|
Fayez Butts posted:Dang! How many cubic centimeters of material is that? Just under 76 cubic cm.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 05:12
|
|
|
I've installed a big fan on my reprap and the difference is amazing. Tall thin things have resolution suddenly! I'm going to have to rethink the tolerances in the model I've been working on! I'm definitely starting to get my printer more honed in. The only annoyance is the time taken to print things. Because I only really have time to make 1 or 2 prints every day after work, I'm having to iterate over days and days. I've got a weekend at home coming up, so I'm hoping to get lots of prints done.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 22:32
|
|
|
Are you printing in ABS, or PLA?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 23:29
|
|
|
After almost a month of not looking into it because of other pressing issues, I may have finally found the culprit: My X-motor's pulley seems to have come loose. I started jogging it left and right and noticed it encountered some resistance on occasion. I got confused a bit with the Y-motor but my Y-motor was re-tightened and didn't seem to have any problems moving back and forth. What's peculiar is that it managed to print out 1ml cubes just fine but anything over a centimeter, I started getting X-axis drift. I managed to print out three of the things and they came out perfect. Edit:  I PRINTED THE GODDAMN ROBOT! First time. Right after retightening the loving pulley. I'm finally in business 
Young Freud fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Mar 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 03:24
|
|
|
So... I'm assuming for every 2lbs of ABS spool I could make close to 2lbs of Lego?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 17:47
|
|
|
Orange_Lazarus posted:So... I'm assuming for every 2lbs of ABS spool I could make close to 2lbs of Lego? Approximately, yes. However, the tolerances used in LEGO production are way, way higher than any consumer 3D printer. Apparently up to 10 micrometers (compared to 50-100 for the highest resolution hobbyist printers). You'd probably have issues in joining pieces together. I've just put the project I've been working on for the last month on thingiverse. It was originally started for their competition (which closes tomorrow if anyone's interested), but schedules slipped and I only really finished it yesterday. It's a pair of customisable glasses which can say any word you like in the lenses. They should look like this (with your word of choice):  The hinge is a snap-together guy which I've done a (successful) test print of. Unfortunately when I've tried to print the whole frame my printer is not playing ball. If anyone's interested in making a pair anyway, I'd really appreciate it if you could give me some feedback. The script I used and everything is on the thingiverse page. Bonus points for rude words (pretty much why I made it in the first place...)
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 23:50
|
|
|
I fixed my Replicator!! I got tired of waiting on support to mail me back after 48 hours so I read up on a few folks having heating problems from loose wires. Hoping it was that or a short like someone mentioned above I took apart the fan and extruder motor assembly, pushed everything together and reassembled it. I'm printing a shark now yay!
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2013 01:02
|
|
|
My university got a 3D printer, so I figured I could print out some scale models. Hoewever, Blender's learning curve is ridiculously steep, so modeling my own seems out of the question. Is there some kind of online open-source repository for this kind of stuff? Planes/tanks/soldiers or whatever, preferably meant for 1:35th scale.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2013 18:08
|
|
|
There's a lot of random stuff available at the Google 3D Warehouse http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/ though a lot of it is quite low-res and blocky, and it's mostly buildings and furniture. It sounds like you want to be making scale models for wargaming or something. In that case, you can do something rather sneaky that I've made work a couple of times: rip the models directly from the DirectX calls used by a video game that has the thing you want in it. (World of Tanks, ArmA, Il-2, Need For Speed, etc). 1. Get 3D ripper DX http://www.deep-shadows.com/hax/3DRipperDX.htm or another DX ripper 2. Boot up the game you want to use through the 3DRDX interface (this has about a 50% chance of working; if it doesn't, try another ripper or you may just be out of luck) 3. load up a scene that has the model you want to use in it 4. press the capture call hotkey and wait for it to save 5. close the game and see what model data you got 6. clean up the model data in Rhino, Maya, 3Ds, etc. (this is unavoidable and will take some practice) 7. convert to STL and print. It is a very time-consuming process, but I've successfully printed a number of video game characters and model airplanes (from HAWX) this way. e: 1/35 scale doesn't mean a thing; you'll be able to scale the model to any arbitrary size at a whole pile of places along the process, including just before printing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2013 20:23
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:There's a lot of random stuff available at the Google 3D Warehouse http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/ though a lot of it is quite low-res and blocky, and it's mostly buildings and furniture. I've got DAZ and a bunch of models from that that I plan to use. The EULA is cool enough that as long as I don't disseminate the meshes of their products that I can use their product in derivative forms. Some people on Thingiverse have already done this, Akiko being the premiere example. So, get into DAZ/Poser and start that way. Also, there's already a shortcut for most video game stuff. XNA Pose Studio (formerly XNA Lara) has been out for a while and people have already ripped models from a lot of games. Edit: BTW, Sagebrush, if I'm cleaning up models, what do I need to look for to get one ready to be printed. Young Freud fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Mar 9, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2013 20:39
|
|
|
I've spent the last couple of weeks working on a little something that I hope might be of interest to some of you: (more screenshots) OctoPrint is a host software for 3D printers which offers extensive monitoring options via a responsive web interface and runs on anything from a Raspberry Pi to Windows. My personal use case for it is to use it together with a (WiFi enabled) Raspberry Pi to allow driving my Ultimaker anywhere in the house without the need for anything but power and the Pi and monitoring it via a web browser (tablet and phone work fine). And since I love watching those things, I also made it capable of creating timelapse movies of the prints: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqryrqZGu6c While I only have this one printer model to test with during development it has been successfully used by an increasing number of users with quite a number of different printer models, so I figure it's pretty stable by now. If you want to give it a try yourself, you can find everything you need to know for getting it up and running in the README, including step by step instructions on how to set it up on a Pi with Raspbian. Since I don't have a dedicated project website up and running yet (on the todo list though), development updates are posted on the project's G+ page, there you can also find more screenshots and timelapse videos.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
Young Freud posted:Edit: BTW, Sagebrush, if I'm cleaning up models, what do I need to look for to get one ready to be printed. It needs to be a closed, watertight mesh. No holes, no open edges, no disconnected polygons. The surface or poly normals all have to be going in the same direction so there's a clear "inside" and "outside". Rhino has a good set of tools for doing this sort of cleanup.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2013 21:19
|
|
|
Does anyone have any recommendations for or against buying PLA from other sources than Makerbot? I have a Replicator 2 and Amazon Prime, and some of the prices on Amazon are tempting (as much as 15 bucks cheaper per roll and free shipping with Prime). Unfortunately there seems to be very few reviews and those all seem to be written by folks who are new to 3d printing. I'd like to find a cheaper source (and Makerbot is out of black PLA) but I don't want to drop $30 to find out I can't use it reliably.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
Anyone know how I can prevent warping with PLA? I tried to print off some stunner shades yesterday, but the shades and one of the arms started warping off the pad? I've been using the same tape from my previous prints this week, should I replace the tape? I did print with a 5% infill, so should I up the infill to prevent it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 21:41
|
|
|
I want to hear more about that, I have not yet used PLA but I thought PLA's big "thing" was the no warping/shrinking as opposed to ABS - especially for large objects.  Is there more to my childlike understanding of anything other than ABS?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 00:25
|
|
|
Pez posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for or against buying PLA from other sources than Makerbot? I have a Replicator 2 and Amazon Prime, and some of the prices on Amazon are tempting (as much as 15 bucks cheaper per roll and free shipping with Prime). Unfortunately there seems to be very few reviews and those all seem to be written by folks who are new to 3d printing. I'd like to find a cheaper source (and Makerbot is out of black PLA) but I don't want to drop $30 to find out I can't use it reliably. I've been using a Replicator 2 as well and bought a spool of pink Jet PLA from Amazon and was not very impressed. I had 3 or 4 prints fail because the filament was not properly spooled, whereas my prints with filament from other vendors have yet to have this issue. The only other vendors I've tried are Ultimachine and Protoparadigm. The Ultimachine spools are great, no issues so far and everything I've printed (only tried red filament) has come out great. The protoparadigm seems ok so far too, although there's almost too much filament on a spool and you have to keep an eye on it when you first get started because the filament is almost spooled past the outer diameter of the sides of the spool.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 02:17
|
|
|
Young Freud posted:Anyone know how I can prevent warping with PLA? I tried to print off some stunner shades yesterday, but the shades and one of the arms started warping off the pad? I've been using the same tape from my previous prints this week, should I replace the tape? I did print with a 5% infill, so should I up the infill to prevent it? Have you tried printing with a brim? I use Slic3r, not sure how it's handled in other programs. That should work for thin objects. If it's bigger, and still warping with a brim, I think you'll need to slow down your print speed. This is where a heated bed comes in handy, but I haven't bothered with one yet, due to my focus on PLA, which needs it less.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 02:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 17:23 |
|
|
Locus posted:Have you tried printing with a brim? I use Slic3r, not sure how it's handled in other programs. That should work for thin objects. If it's bigger, and still warping with a brim, I think you'll need to slow down your print speed. This is where a heated bed comes in handy, but I haven't bothered with one yet, due to my focus on PLA, which needs it less. I'm using Cura and have had some good results printing small stuff, like the Ultimaker robot or a miniature I found on Thingiverse. But, yeah, larger objects are starting to warp before they're finished. I noticed this is happening exclusively to the right side of the print, so I'm thinking that it has something to do with the cooling. The extractor fan is located on the left, so it seems to cool the plastic evenly on the left side of the print but since the fan isn't on the other side, the plastic cools normally and begins to warp.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 04:44
|
|