|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Dragging the brake like that will glaze sintered pads, you need to put a good ten or so heat cycles through them (60-10 then back up a few times will do it). Organic pads should be fine with your technique though. Eh, I run sintered pads and they don't seem to glaze, if they do it will be taken care of pretty much immediately by a bunch of hard braking. I do it to get the heat up and burn off any grease or whatever might have gotten on the brake surfaces, I'm not getting it to the point of blueing the rotor or anything.
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 15:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 07:09 |
|
|
What?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 16:02
|
|
|
epalm posted:What? If your brake drags for long enough to get your pads/rotors way over temperature then you can end up with, as far as I understand, the material softening and building up on the pad surface, creating a glassy smooth coating on the pads and reducing your braking power.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
My brakes have always been more awesome immediately after a replacement, but I understand what you're saying. Sometimes they're worn all ragged and need bedding, especially if you let them go a super long time after the point you should have replaced them. Also, holding hot brakes hard at a stop can deposit pad material on the rotor, which not only causes the "warping" that people complain about, but actually changes the steel under the pad metallurgically because of the different way heat is applied to it versus the surrounding, unprotected disc. This can permanently screw up the rotors.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 16:17
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Are we still recommending SV-650s to new-again-to-motorcycle riders? Guy I work with is coming back from a deployment in a couple months with about $5000. He motocrossed dirtbikes until 14, when his uncle came off the top of the 700(!?) he was using and nearly died. The aunt sold the bike, and he hasn't been able to touch one in ~15 years. He wants "a sportbike, fast, over 900." Since no one answered this yet, I can't think of a better recommendation. Although, you probably can't get a second gen with a GSXR front end (at least around here) for that much, but he could get a very well set-up first gen and have money left over.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 17:16
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Dragging the brake like that will glaze sintered pads, you need to put a good ten or so heat cycles through them (60-10 then back up a few times will do it). Organic pads should be fine with your technique though. I've never had a problem with sintered pads glazing over. I just drag them hard at freeway speeds for about 15 seconds (enough that I have to add throttle to keep the bike at speed) and then let them rest for a minute or so, and then repeat. After 2-5 cycles, you'll feel them bed and grip spike up. Easier to modulate when they start to come in vs. doing it during emergency braking tests too, if they suddenly grip aggressively while you're at nearly full braking power, it's really easy to lock the front.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 19:04
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I've never had a problem with sintered pads glazing over. I just drag them hard at freeway speeds for about 15 seconds (enough that I have to add throttle to keep the bike at speed) and then let them rest for a minute or so, and then repeat. After 2-5 cycles, you'll feel them bed and grip spike up. Easier to modulate when they start to come in vs. doing it during emergency braking tests too, if they suddenly grip aggressively while you're at nearly full braking power, it's really easy to lock the front. That can work too, it's effectively just the same as my technique. I've never had them grip up during the braking, the extra power seems to come in after they've had a chance to cool down. ReelBigLizard posted:If your brake drags for long enough to get your pads/rotors way over temperature then you can end up with, as far as I understand, the material softening and building up on the pad surface, creating a glassy smooth coating on the pads and reducing your braking power. Basically this. Sintered pads are a combination of a ceramic friction material with metal powder (usually copper, sometimes steel) to provide thermal conductivity and structural strength. When they're fresh out the packet they're very soft - effectively just a powder - and require several heat cycles of going up to their working temperature and then cool off. This lets the softer friction material wear away so it makes a close fit to the disk surface, and then partially melts the metal component to harden up the surface. Putting too much heat into it leaves a thin veneer of metal over the friction material, ruining the pad's performance. Not putting enough heat in means the surface never hardens so you get excessive brake wear and vastly reduced braking power. Glazing is one of the reasons for brake squeal (some pad manufacturers, particularly on car brakes, deliberately put a strip of copper in the pad to create a loud squeal when the pad is near its wear limit), and can be an utter bitch to get rid of (normally requiring 40 or 50 heat cycles - some people just take the pads out and grind the surface out) and can damage your disks too, as well as of course meaning your brakes never reach their full power, so you really want to be sure to treat your new pads right. Organic pads don't need the heat-cycle treatment but still need a bedding-in period because as has been pointed out your disks aren't perfectly flat, so on first application you'll only be getting friction on a tiny portion of the surface.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 00:33
|
|
|
How's the KTM 990 Adventure? Good tourer? Reasonably nimble? Does it have KTM's usual Parts Fall Off syndrome? Any gotchas?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 00:57
|
|
|
All I know about 990 Adventures is that I refuse to ride one on the grounds that it might erode my white hot lust for the Ulysses and that they're uglier than the 990 SMT. I hear they are absolute beasts and the LC8 is a solid motor. e: I wiki'd it out of curiosity and I am a little surprised they're only making about 105 horsies. For a liquid cooled DOHC 1-liter, I expected about 20 more.
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Mar 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 01:06
|
|
|
They're the offroad stars of the adventure bike market. Less 'offroad pretensions' and more 'large comfy street dirt bike'. The new one is just around the corner for the US, I'd expect it next year which uses the RC8 motor for even more power. They are really big bikes, so you want to be kind of a tall person to be real comfortable on one but if you want the kind of bike that they are meant to be you can't really do any better. The adventure bike you can crash all you want in the dirt without feeling bad.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 09:43
|
|
|
I haven't ridden one, but the two owners I've met talk about them like it's the adventure bike Jesus would use. Having ridden a couple of the other 990s (SMT, SD) I can believe it, I know the horsepower doesn't sound like much but that motor makes the most of it. Very smooth and usable power.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 10:16
|
|
|
So I am thru-hiking the AT starting next week, and need to leave my beloved KLR650 in the care of my parents. I'll be away for 4-6 months. What should I do to prep the bike for being left that long? I can have my step dad start/run it as needed, but nobody is able to ride. Just have them start/run it once a week and put some stabilizer in the tank? Any concerns I should have about the carbs?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 18:47
|
|
|
Akion posted:So I am thru-hiking the AT starting next week, and need to leave my beloved KLR650 in the care of my parents. I'll be away for 4-6 months. Drop it off at my house. I'll add it to the pile of friends' bikes I maintain when they can't/don't want to ride. For real, though, I'd fill the tank all the way, add some stabilizer, shut the petcock off, drain the carbs, put the battery on a battery tender, and try to get it up on stands so the tires are off the ground. e: when you get back, change the oil.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 19:04
|
|
|
When I left for 9 months to BCT/AIT, I parked my bike under my parent's deck/patio (rain tight), filled the tank, stuffed plastic bags into the intake and exhaust, wrapped it with a tarp and bungee cords (sun comes in at an angle right on it), brought the battery inside, and left it. Seems like a long list, but really it takes 20 minutes (unless your battery is a bitch to remove, in which case just disconnect it) and worked beautifully. Started on the second kick 9 months later.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 19:23
|
|
|
Mine will at least be in the garage. I'll drain the gas for sure. The battery is brand new, so should I just remove it and stick it somewhere? Why do you fill the tank?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 20:22
|
|
|
At least in the pre-ethanol days, gasoline kept water out of your tank so it wouldn't rust. Not quite so great any more but still better than leaving it empty.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 20:24
|
|
|
Metal covered by gas doesn't rust. Metal exposed to air rusts. If you have a plstic tank you can drain it, otherwise it's better to leave it topped up. Gas doesn't go bad in that short time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 20:25
|
|
|
What's everyone's opinion on the Yamaha XS series? I'm looking at buying my friend's 1980 XS400 as my first motorcycle. I'd prefer a 250cc motorcycle but it's hard to find decently priced motorcycles living in the pacific northwest. It seems like the front brake pads and maybe the rear drum shoes need to be replaced. I've replaced my cars brake pads/drum shoes before, I'm assuming it's similar on a motorcycle? Also the rear tire seems like it needs to be replaced. Is it necessary to replace both the front and rear tires at the same time?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 03:39
|
|
|
An XS400 is totally reasonable for a first bike (appropriate weight, horsepower and simplicity) as long as it's in good enough shape that you don't need to immediately start repairing it. By which I mean major engine parts or holes in the gas tank or whatever...maintenance items like the fluids, tires, chain, and brake components are going to need to be looked at regardless. Pads and shoes are easy, yep. Good to replace them as a matter of course if you can afford it. You don't have to replace the tires at the same time (and indeed you'll probably go through more rear tires than front ones) but if the bike has been sitting for a while or the tires are old it's a good idea to. Don't cheap out on tires; remember that they're all that keeps you on the road, and if either one fails it's catastrophic.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 04:00
|
|
|
My bike cut out on me this morning a couple of seconds after starting before I'd even had chance to put it in gear. When I hit the starter again it didn't seem to want to start up again until I paddled it forward a few steps then it caught and seemed to run fine until I got in to work. This is the second time it's done this within a couple of weeks. Any ideas what it could be? The bike is an SV650K4, and it gets ridden pretty much everyday apart from weekends. I was thinking maybe a battery issue?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 13:10
|
|
|
ReformedNiceGuy posted:My bike cut out on me this morning a couple of seconds after starting before I'd even had chance to put it in gear. If it's got the juice to turn the engine over and start it's fairly unlikely to be a battery issue (not impossible, just fairly unlikely). When you say it didn't want to start again - was it turning over?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 14:24
|
|
|
ReformedNiceGuy posted:My bike cut out on me this morning a couple of seconds after starting before I'd even had chance to put it in gear. Gear position sensor? my KTM wont start unless the clutch is pulled or the gearbox is in neutral.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 16:19
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:Gear position sensor? my KTM wont start unless the clutch is pulled or the gearbox is in neutral. Could also be a wonky sidestand sensor.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 17:13
|
|
|
Twisto; Yeah it sounded like it was turning over, just didn't seem to catch. RBL; I had the clutch in like normal when I hit the starter. I didn't have it in gear when I was rolling it forward to start it either so I don't think it'd be the cut off. Actually now you say that ^^^ I noticed my sidestand felt a lot looser since it's service. I just assumed they'd lubed it up. I'll check it over when I get home tonight. Cheers all 
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 17:18
|
|
|
Did you by any chance ride in the rain recently? Front plug on the SV often gets filled with water making starts difficult.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 17:29
|
|
|
FileNotFound posted:Did you by any chance ride in the rain recently? Front plug on the SV often gets filled with water making starts difficult. I know this is brought up a lot and mentioned on SVrider a fair amount but I wonder how common it actually is. I've never had issues with mine, it sees a lot of heavy rain and I didn't do the grease or whatever trick. Maybe I've just been lucky.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 17:57
|
|
|
Not very common at all as I think the 07 or 08 model year they went to a dual spark head and changed the seal around the plugs to fix this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 18:04
|
|
|
Is there a trick to getting a tank completely full using California's pumps? Since you gotta angle the pump in a weird way to get it to activate, I can't ever seem to get my Versys entirely full on the gauge.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 18:10
|
|
|
Monkey Wrangler posted:Is there a trick to getting a tank completely full using California's pumps? Since you gotta angle the pump in a weird way to get it to activate, I can't ever seem to get my Versys entirely full on the gauge. I throw the VFR on the center stand at the station and pull the rubber boot up by hand. You have to be careful though,or you can cover your bike in gas like this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 18:17
|
|
|
Monkey Wrangler posted:Is there a trick to getting a tank completely full using California's pumps? Since you gotta angle the pump in a weird way to get it to activate, I can't ever seem to get my Versys entirely full on the gauge. I have to pull the boot up manually like PAMB says, pump slowly and watch the level in the tank to make sure I don't overflow. Of course my tank is so shallow that if I pull the handle all the way the gas usually just bounces off the bottom of the tank and shoots back out the top anyway so I'm used to being careful with it lest I pull an Ewan McGregor. Basically by the end you'll be almost lifting the nozzle out of the tank to watch the gas trickle in while pulling the shield back with your left hand, completely defeating the vapor recovery system. gently caress da CARB 
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 18:36
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:I know this is brought up a lot and mentioned on SVrider a fair amount but I wonder how common it actually is. I've never had issues with mine, it sees a lot of heavy rain and I didn't do the grease or whatever trick. Maybe I've just been lucky. It used to happen regularly to my 2004. Even with a fender extender. I figured out that I could start it with the throttle at about 1/3rd open and then just ride my SV325 until the heat dried it up enough to get the other cylinder firing. The transition from SV325 back to 650 as you ride is interesting to say the least.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 19:17
|
|
|
Monkey Wrangler posted:Is there a trick to getting a tank completely full using California's pumps? Since you gotta angle the pump in a weird way to get it to activate, I can't ever seem to get my Versys entirely full on the gauge. Don't trust gauges and be careful brimming the tank, if you can get it up to the level of the fill hole you should be good. If you fill it up too much you might just be dumping the extra gas out of the overflow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 19:32
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:Not very common at all as I think the 07 or 08 model year they went to a dual spark head and changed the seal around the plugs to fix this. Really common on the curveys, I dont know about the injected bikes but in irish weather some sort of spray shield over the front plug cap is essential
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 19:43
|
|
|
I meant to add 'anymore' into that post somewhere but apparently it didn't make it. It was a big problem for the 99-02's and on the refresh until they added the dual plug heads and I think one year they changed the caps to help fix the issue too but I can't remember if that came with the dual plugs or was a separate update.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 20:08
|
|
|
drat I've just been lucky so far then, mines a 99 with no extended fender or blocking. Of course now that I mention it I'll be rocking a SV325 next time it drizzles.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 22:31
|
|
|
The power didn't seem down once I'd got it started. It was okay after work too, started right up without a problem after spending all day sat in the rain. I titted about with the side stand when I got home and couldn't cause it to cut out unexpectedly. Unfortunately I'm not going to get to spend any more time with it until Monday so I'll just have to see how it is then. Cheers for all the suggestions anyhow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 23:19
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:drat I've just been lucky so far then, mines a 99 with no extended fender or blocking. Of course now that I mention it I'll be rocking a SV325 next time it drizzles. It took pretty heavy rain for it to happen and my drain hole was always kinda gunked up. Part of my problem was that once I realized that it was very much an issue that "fixed itself" by riding - I just didn't bother investing any further effort into preventing it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2013 01:20
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:drat I've just been lucky so far then, mines a 99 with no extended fender or blocking. Of course now that I mention it I'll be rocking a SV325 next time it drizzles. Once upon a time my Ducati StreetFighter had a head issue that caused oil to pool up around the top cylinder and cause it not to spark. Under warranty thankfully but for about an hour I was rocking a Ducati 549 Single superbike and it would still float the front wheel up without issue. It was kind of awesome, in a way.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2013 04:18
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:Once upon a time my Ducati StreetFighter had a head issue that caused oil to pool up around the top cylinder and cause it not to spark. Under warranty thankfully but for about an hour I was rocking a Ducati 549 Single superbike and it would still float the front wheel up without issue. It was kind of awesome, in a way. My first bike (CB550) was a CB225 for the first month I owned it. It was my first bike, so I just assumed it was underpowered with my 180lb frame on it. Wow, that was a change once I got the other two cylinders firing. Then I stepped up to a 750 with an 836cc Weisco kit...
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2013 17:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 07:09 |
|
|
For the first three weeks I had my motorcycle running, my carbs were clogged in such a way that only the primary jets were flowing gas -- the pilots and needle jets had no effect. Fixing that and going from "engine is out of power at 5000" to "engine is just starting to make power at 5000" sure was something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2013 18:23
|
|