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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Consider this a non-issue then. The dripping is due to the specific make and model of toilet installed in its specific location. No water = no problem. Unless you are going to forever lose sleep about it, do your best to forget it. Welp, I appreciate all the help you and others have given me in this thread. I'd still love to know why my toilet makes dripping noises now that it didn't before I took it off but I can live with it. I'm good with your position: if it isn't causing a problem (and I at least can't see a problem) it's just a bit of wonkiness I can live with.
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Mar 8, 2013 06:28
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Ok, so I did something dumb. The sink downstairs in the kitchen had really bad water flow, so I went ahead and dismantled it and gave it a quick clean, took a bunch of filthy stuff out. Only, I can't remember how all the pieces fit together. Any pointers? 
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Mar 8, 2013 11:19
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Valiant Pudding posted:The sink downstairs in the kitchen had really bad water flow, I'd say so. Your pipes look like they have too many corners and could probably be simplified. Could we get a zoomed out picture version of the second picture to see parts 1 and 2 up top as they come out of the sink? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 14:19
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I think I fixed it: There doesn't seem to be any leakage, and the sink drains faster now...
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Mar 8, 2013 15:06
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Where do you live?
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Mar 8, 2013 15:38
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Belgium, why? (this is a house we're renting btw)
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Mar 8, 2013 15:40
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Nitrox posted:Where do you live? Judging from the last pic, Australia.
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Mar 8, 2013 15:50
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Valiant Pudding posted:Belgium, why?
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Mar 8, 2013 16:04
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I've got a backwoods plumber telling me I need a pressure regulator because of how high the water pressure is coming into my house. The shutoff valve seems pretty solid, wouldn't shutting it a fraction of the way down and fastening it there do the trick? The local price gougers are asking $200 for a regulator and 2 hours of labor (100/hour, of course), I could buy an arduino, cutoff valve, and pressure gauge and some servos and hook a pressure regulator up to the internet for that much. edit: if it's not obvious, my training is in different areas. Like they say, if all you have is a method of automating things from the internet, every problem looks like a Rube Goldberg machine shaped-hole. Pythagoras a trois fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 16:49
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Cheekio posted:I've got a backwoods plumber telling me I need a pressure regulator because of how high the water pressure is coming into my house. The shutoff valve seems pretty solid, wouldn't shutting it a fraction of the way down and fastening it there do the trick? The local price gougers are asking $200 for a regulator and 2 hours of labor (100/hour, of course), I could buy an arduino, cutoff valve, and pressure gauge and some servos and hook a pressure regulator up to the internet for that much. Closing the valve a little bit doesn't regulate pressure it would only regulate volume. You can get one on amazon for decently cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Water-T...+reducing+valve That is a 3/4 IPS not sure if you need a 1 inch swt or IPS. But they are fairly easy to install. Depending on how handy you are. Whats the pressure going into your house. If it's not over 80 psi i wouldn't worry about it.
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Mar 9, 2013 20:16
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Closing the valve a little bit doesn't regulate pressure it would only regulate volume. It's 90+ psi, getting up closer to 100 at times. I'm pretty sure I'd need to draw the line at cutting/soldering pipes, as I just don't have the tools to do that depth of work, but if I could install it without any metal cutting, I'd be happy to do the work myself. I'll measure the pipework coming into the house and poke around on Amazon. Thanks!
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Mar 9, 2013 20:50
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Cheekio posted:It's 90+ psi, getting up closer to 100 at times. I'm pretty sure I'd need to draw the line at cutting/soldering pipes, as I just don't have the tools to do that depth of work, but if I could install it without any metal cutting, I'd be happy to do the work myself. I'll measure the pipework coming into the house and poke around on Amazon. Thanks! A good pipe cutter will cost you less than 10bux sweating (soldering) equipment will cost you 19.99 for torch flux and solder spend five dollars on a coupler so you can practice. Also check you local hd/lowes/localchain they often have weekend demos that covere topics like sweating pipes.
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Mar 9, 2013 21:18
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The vents in our bathrooms just exhaust into the attic. Can I couple them into the sewer vent pipe (which convinently runs right up between the middle of the bathroom vents)? It's a large diameter pipe, maybe 3-4".
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Mar 9, 2013 23:16
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insta posted:The vents in our bathrooms just exhaust into the attic. Can I couple them into the sewer vent pipe (which convinently runs right up between the middle of the bathroom vents)? It's a large diameter pipe, maybe 3-4". They need their own vent out of the attic. Leaving as is will trap moisture and can lead to mold and other nasties. Attach them to the plumbing stack could allow sewer gas into your bathroom through the vent. So terrible idea. You need to vent out of attic, roofing companies will do this for 40-50 bucks.
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Mar 10, 2013 00:48
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insta posted:The vents in our bathrooms just exhaust into the attic. Can I couple them into the sewer vent pipe (which convinently runs right up between the middle of the bathroom vents)? It's a large diameter pipe, maybe 3-4". You mean your fan in the bathroom or the plumbing vents? Cheekio posted:It's 90+ psi, getting up closer to 100 at times. I'm pretty sure I'd need to draw the line at cutting/soldering pipes, as I just don't have the tools to do that depth of work, but if I could install it without any metal cutting, I'd be happy to do the work myself. I'll measure the pipework coming into the house and poke around on Amazon. Thanks! If you provide the parts you could find someone to do it in less then an hour. You will be charged an hour minimum though. Post a picture of the piping and the size of it and I could help further.
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Mar 10, 2013 07:35
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:They need their own vent out of the attic. Leaving as is will trap moisture and can lead to mold and other nasties. Attach them to the plumbing stack could allow sewer gas into your bathroom through the vent. That's cheap enough to make it worth it easily. Hope your fakey internet number translates to real life! I assume in the meantime its ok to vent to the attic as a whole? Previously the vent was dumping straight into the insulation (aka, not). I'll call the roofers monday.
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Mar 10, 2013 08:30
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insta posted:I assume in the meantime its ok to vent to the attic as a whole? Vent what in your bathroom exactly? The exhaust fan or the plumbing?
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Mar 10, 2013 23:36
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I've been living with this leaky bath tub faucet for a while now and it is starting to annoy the poo poo out of me. I've replaced the washers a couple of times and the last time I looked inside the housing with a flashlight and the spot that makes contact with the washer looked corroded as all hell and the leak came back in a couple of days. It is only on the cold side. Am I correct in assuming that the whole thing needs to be replaced? On my last trip to Home Depot I looked at the faucets they had and nothing looked like that one. It is a really old claw-foot tub so I wouldn't be surprised if that style was out of fashion or whatever. Can anyone recommend a replacement or other solution? I'd like to do this on the cheap, because we've got plans to remodel the whole bathroom in a few years. While I am far from a pro, I do know my way around a pair of pliers and I think I could handle a simple repair/replacement myself. Thanks for any help. 
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Mar 13, 2013 02:32
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deoju posted:
Well if you absolutely love the fixture you might be able to replace the valve seat, but it will be definitely easier to replace the faucet. Don't worry, they still make faucets for claw foot tubs. They even make retrofit kits to turn them into showers, you just need several curtains to go all the way around. The only problem is that would be a special order item and you'll have a better selection if you turn to the internet. Home Depot does have them, but online only. If you want something really nice, try out Signature Hardware. They specialize in retro home hardware and fixtures of all kinds. edit: if you want to go cheap, Pegasus faucets has a couple $50 models.
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Mar 13, 2013 03:33
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kid sinister posted:Well if you absolutely love the fixture you might be able to replace the valve seat, but it will be definitely easier to replace the faucet. Don't worry, they still make faucets for claw foot tubs. They even make retrofit kits to turn them into showers, you just need several curtains to go all the way around. The only problem is that would be a special order item and you'll have a better selection if you turn to the internet. Home Depot does have them, but online only. If you want something really nice, try out Signature Hardware. They specialize in retro home hardware and fixtures of all kinds. I had one of those claw foot tubs, but with a skirt/ring. When I got it off of the base, there were the spots for the actual claws. I hated the retro-shower though since it was so cold with 2 shower curtains. I guess it didn't help that it was on the "outside" of the wall of the original house.
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Mar 13, 2013 03:49
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Thanks for the tip! Just looking at it and doing some rough measurements I think this might be exactly what I have now. I've already got the shower conversion thingy and a curtains wrapping around it. (That black thing in my picture is a magnet holding them down.) Also, holy poo poo $1200 for this one. 
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Mar 13, 2013 04:09
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kid sinister posted:Vent what in your bathroom exactly? The exhaust fan or the plumbing? Exhaust fan. We will be having a roofing contractor punch vents through the roof for us and joining them ourselves in the attic.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:14
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insta posted:Exhaust fan. We will be having a roofing contractor punch vents through the roof for us and joining them ourselves in the attic. You can vent exhaust fans to just the attic. Some people will just run them sideways to the underside of the soffit.
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Mar 13, 2013 16:06
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kid sinister posted:You can vent exhaust fans to just the attic. Some people will just run them sideways to the underside of the soffit. You can but its usually a terrible idea because it puts a ton of moisture into that space, promoting mold growth, dry rot, etc. If you have freezing winters it can also cause frost on the decking which melts later, showering your insulation and trusses/joists with water. Similarly, venting cooktop exhaust into the attic space just lets grease accumulate, potentially creating a fire hazard, inviting bugs/rodents to take up residence, etc. Just do it right, vent it outside. You also shouldn't join the vents or the exhaust from one fan will push back down the pipe and into the other bathroom.
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Mar 14, 2013 02:48
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Ender.uNF posted:Just do it right, vent it outside. You also shouldn't join the vents or the exhaust from one fan will push back down the pipe and into the other bathroom.
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Mar 14, 2013 07:11
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Nitrox posted:You can put an inline flap door in one of the ducts and it'll be just fine. Don't most exhaust fans already have a backdraft damper right on their exit?
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Mar 14, 2013 18:38
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I've had this shower stall installed in my (only) bathroom for about 3 years now, and I've had no end of trouble with leaks in it. I think there's more caulking than wall in some spots. I've resigned that I'm going to have to rip it out and install something better, but all the ones I'm finding online have similar ratings. I need something that is going to be relatively tenant-proof. Has anyone found another shower stall, similar to this one, that is worth the money? http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100168319?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=shower+stall&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100168319#BVRRWidgetID
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Mar 16, 2013 05:05
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If you had the room to install a 1 piece stall then it would be better but it takes a lot of room to install one. I have seen a friend who got a 3 piece stall that had locking pannels that were designed so even if they werent caulked they wouldnt let the water run into the wall.
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Mar 16, 2013 07:50
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Dragyn posted:I've had this shower stall installed in my (only) bathroom for about 3 years now, and I've had no end of trouble with leaks in it. I think there's more caulking than wall in some spots. I've resigned that I'm going to have to rip it out and install something better, but all the ones I'm finding online have similar ratings. Here's either what I have now or close, with the interlocking pieces RdRash talked about. I Remember it was the Sterling Accord 60" x 36"; these look like the closest to what I got. http://goo.gl/ZCB4g - Pan http://goo.gl/2iYLF - Walls http://goo.gl/vzNd3 - Possibly the door I got. I remember it was around $300~$400, solid clear glass with chrome or nickle round roads for the handles/towel holder.
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Mar 17, 2013 03:58
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Dragyn posted:I've had this shower stall installed in my (only) bathroom for about 3 years now, and I've had no end of trouble with leaks in it. I think there's more caulking than wall in some spots. I've resigned that I'm going to have to rip it out and install something better, but all the ones I'm finding online have similar ratings. Don't buy anything that requires assembly. Get 1-2 piece molded stall and nothing but. I built and maintain rental properties, and simple molded fiberglass enclosures are the ones that don't require any repeated maintenance or adjustments. Make sure it's leveled, secured to all 3 walls and sitting on a cement bed. Use portland mix for best results. Example http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100116159?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=fiberglass+shower+stall&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100116159 Nitrox fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 05:00
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I am looking to upgrade my bath faucets/plumbing so that I can turn the water pressure off without changing the temperature. This is so I can save water by turning off the water when I am lathering up and not have to mess around trying to get the water temperature back to where I want it. Right now I have some cheap POS Fisher Price er Price Pfister with a small knob. Is something like this what I am looking for or is there something simpler/better?
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Mar 17, 2013 20:48
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It sounds like you want a pull-on fixture. The problem is that you have to tear open that wall to change shower fixtures, either from the front or back. Well, you can change the spout, shower head and arm without tearing the wall open, but to change handles you need to tear the wall open to get at the plumbing.
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Mar 18, 2013 17:31
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kid sinister posted:It sounds like you want a pull-on fixture. The problem is that you have to tear open that wall to change shower fixtures, either from the front or back. Well, you can change the spout, shower head and arm without tearing the wall open, but to change handles you need to tear the wall open to get at the plumbing. Luckily there is a closet on the other side of the shower and an access panel for the plumbing is already there. I tried searching for push-pull faucets put can not find anything on Home Depot or Amazon. Are they special order items?
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Mar 19, 2013 02:23
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MH Knights posted:Luckily there is a closet on the other side of the shower and an access panel for the plumbing is already there. I tried searching for push-pull faucets put can not find anything on Home Depot or Amazon. Are they special order items? You might just look at a shower shut-off knob. There's one installed inline here at the hotel. Push the button and the water is 100% off. I've seen roughly equivalent things in half- and quarter-turn versions in Home Depot before. Something like this but not crappy, and the water is 100% off when off.
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Mar 19, 2013 08:05
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I have somewhat of an issue with drainage in my bathroom. The issue is that when the faucet drains it takes about 10 seconds before water starts coming up from the shower drain. Since noticing the issue yesterday the toilet has been flushed several times and the faucet used to wash hands/brush teeth. I tried plunging the bathtub for a considerable amount of time and there is about half a galon of pitch black water that comes out. The water eventually settles at around half a liter and will not drain further. I can't really access the bathtub trap without cutting apart the linoleum tile. Some secondary info: I live in the second floor of a two floor apartment building. The setup of the bathroom is as follows from the left as you enter: Toilet > Sink > Tub. I have tried snaking the bathtub drain for a while but did not get more than a few feet in. As I'm not too experienced in this I'd like to ask for some advice before I continue. Thanks.
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Mar 20, 2013 22:25
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Bolek posted:I have somewhat of an issue with drainage in my bathroom. The issue is that when the faucet drains it takes about 10 seconds before water starts coming up from the shower drain. Since noticing the issue yesterday the toilet has been flushed several times and the faucet used to wash hands/brush teeth. I tried plunging the bathtub for a considerable amount of time and there is about half a galon of pitch black water that comes out. The water eventually settles at around half a liter and will not drain further. I can't really access the bathtub trap without cutting apart the linoleum tile. http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Zip-It-Bath-and-Sink-Hair-Snare-BC00400/100665735?N=bqnc
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Mar 21, 2013 14:23
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Nitrox posted:Have you tried one of these? It pulls all sort of accumulated crap from your trap. Thanks for the reply but the issue wasn't in the trap as the bathtub was not the only thing malfunctioning. I'm happy to report however that after making that post and screwing around for another 2 hours I managed to get all 15 feet of the snake into the pipes and through repetition was able to clear the clog. I suspect that there is still a fair amount of debris restricting flow but it looks like this is as good as ill be able to get it.y only concern now is it clogging further down the line where I won't be able to get to it.
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Mar 21, 2013 16:05
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Ok here is a good one.  This is the diagram of my parents house. The bathroom sink, tub and toilet (t) are connected. When you shower, the toliet bubbles, but there is no methane smell, and the tub will back up. Same goes for the bathroom sink and tub as well. Again no methane smell. The water will drain, but very very very slow. The septic tank was pumped about, and its just her, no one else lives there, so I would not assume the solids have taken over that much in the tank. The washer and sink have not been having any issues, and I am wondering if they are completely by passed the septic. This would not shock me in any way because this house was built prior to really any sort of standards, and its in the country. I know grey water standards are not as high as black water. My question is... Do you think the leach field is compromised? We went through a pretty nasty drought and wonder if it is collapsed. Here is what is done: All systems have been snaked and no unusual items found The main stack for the bathroom has been rebuilt The tub drain as been rebuilt The next step I have suggested is hiring a video camera to follow the system and see if there is a collapsed pipe in the house.
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Mar 22, 2013 03:30
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I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I was wondering if there's such a thing as a required minimum flow rate for indoor residential kitchen faucets. We currently rent an apartment and the kitchen faucet gets 0.45 GPM; it's not even enough to clean the soap off a dish. I've been trying to look up the local laws (Ventura, California) but I can only find information on maximum flow rate. Any ideas?
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Mar 26, 2013 05:11
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Baja Mofufu posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I was wondering if there's such a thing as a required minimum flow rate for indoor residential kitchen faucets. We currently rent an apartment and the kitchen faucet gets 0.45 GPM; it's not even enough to clean the soap off a dish. I've been trying to look up the local laws (Ventura, California) but I can only find information on maximum flow rate. Any ideas? Sounds like a clogged faucet. Ask you landlord to fix it or buy a kit from a big store.
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Mar 26, 2013 14:36
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