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veedubfreak posted:Does mercedes even make manuals? Yes they did, they were pretty rare in the US. I know there is a couple 4 speed 220Ds around here. Also: Just picked up a ALH TDI motor out of a wrecked 2001 TDI Bettle for $200, going to cut it out Monday.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:36
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$200! Holy hell thats a steal, poo poo.
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Feb 28, 2013 20:20
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Billy Tully posted:$200! Holy hell thats a steal, poo poo. To be fair, the oil pan is cracked, but the motor turns freely. $200 is worth it just for the 11mm Injection Pump and VNT turbo. If I can get the whole motor rebuilt, that is a nearly $2500-3000k steal. I also have to literally cut it out of the wreckage.
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Feb 28, 2013 20:49
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veedubfreak posted:Does mercedes even make manuals? It was really only in the 90's that Merc started making cars that break expensively for no reason. On the older ones most of the really expensive things don't break, and they're simple enough to fix. The trick is to find one that hasn't been abused. EDIT: Though I've been doing more reading and I think on the comfort factor a 300D would be better. Takes a hit in fuel economy though.
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Feb 28, 2013 21:30
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TopherCStone posted:It was really only in the 90's that Merc started making cars that break expensively for no reason. On the older ones most of the really expensive things don't break, and they're simple enough to fix. The trick is to find one that hasn't been abused. Its mostly the wiring harness because you know... save the world for the children or some stupid poo poo. And that poo poo started with the later S-Classes, so thats when you need to start keeping an eye on poo poo. https://www.youtube.com/user/Mercedessource?feature=watch This guy is actually pretty good. Kind of an annoying voice, but he has pretty detailed walk through of common repairs.
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Feb 28, 2013 21:54
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Its mostly the wiring harness because you know... save the world for the children or some stupid poo poo. And that poo poo started with the later S-Classes, so thats when you need to start keeping an eye on poo poo. Didn't Volvos also have a problem with their biodegradable wiring disintegrating? I actually found that channel the other day. Good stuff, and he has an adorable jumpsuit
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Feb 28, 2013 22:05
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TopherCStone posted:Didn't Volvos also have a problem with their biodegradable wiring disintegrating? Yeah Volvo did too... I think VW cars suffered a little too. Surprisingly, BMW said gently caress the environment. At least in my area, there are far more 90's era BMW's still running around than Mercedes. I think its more of a doctor's coat than a jump suit. I did price out some of his parts on his website, and he seems to be fairly priced against others, but he is pretty good at putting kits together instead of "one of pieces".
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Feb 28, 2013 22:11
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TopherCStone posted:Didn't Volvos also have a problem with their biodegradable wiring disintegrating? Pre 1988.
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Mar 1, 2013 03:16
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Just found out there's a biodiesel station one town over from me. They only go up to B30, but I'd much rather go there to fill up than have to make it myself so as long as they aren't hideously expensive I'll be doing that.
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Mar 3, 2013 15:57
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After three hours with an angle grinder, my ALH motor is free. The block looks undamaged, but the accessory mount which holds the injection pump to the block is cracked in three pieces and the oil filter assembly is broken, but the base of it isn't damaged so I just have to replace the whole thing, otherwise everything seems good, won't know more till I load it in the truck tomorrow and pull the head. The Turbo has no play either. Pictures to follow tommorrow. And everything hurts. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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Mar 5, 2013 03:13
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CommieGIR posted:After three hours with an angle grinder, my ALH motor is free. The block looks undamaged, but the accessory mount which holds the injection pump to the block is cracked in three pieces and the oil filter assembly is broken, but the base of it isn't damaged so I just have to replace the whole thing, otherwise everything seems good, won't know more till I load it in the truck tomorrow and pull the head. The Turbo has no play either. I'd pull the oilpan and see what's up. If its empty, you could even pop off a main bearing cap and see if the bearing/crank got hosed by running dry.
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Mar 5, 2013 17:32
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sharkytm posted:I'd pull the oilpan and see what's up. If its empty, you could even pop off a main bearing cap and see if the bearing/crank got hosed by running dry. Oil pan was cracked, but motor turns over by hand. I'll pull bearings once I get it home, but even if the block/head are scrap if I get the injectors/turbo/injection pump and some other components its well worth the $200 I paid for it. Anything else that is good is just freebies at this point. Hell, I even got the ECU and that is good and worth more than the $200 I paid.
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Mar 5, 2013 17:42
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Pics of motor:  
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Mar 7, 2013 00:11
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$200 for a TDI motor is a loving steal... I was quoted $7500 for a toyota 1HD-T motor from a wreck with 250K kms on the clock!
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Mar 7, 2013 01:27
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Ferremit posted:$200 for a TDI motor is a loving steal... I was quoted $7500 for a toyota 1HD-T motor from a wreck with 250K kms on the clock! Like I said, even if the block is toast, the Turbocharger and Injection Pump are more than worth $200
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Mar 7, 2013 01:45
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Pulled the valve cover, cam lobes are clean and still have fresh oil. It didn't lose lubrication at least, I can't pull the head due to the torque on the bolts, I'll have to use the impact wrench tommorrow.
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Mar 9, 2013 03:41
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My father just bought a 2012 F-350 and was investigating selling his 2001 F-250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. Every place he went to when looking at new trucks kept going  "Please tell me you are trading the F250 in because I can sell it instantly".Now he's barking the tires on the new truck occasionally because he's not used to how quickly it spools up. At least that is his excuse 
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Mar 9, 2013 04:46
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Shifty Pony posted:My father just bought a 2012 F-350 and was investigating selling his 2001 F-250 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. Every place he went to when looking at new trucks kept going Yeah, don't trade a 7.3 in. They are worth a premium private party, as it's the last good motor one could get in a Ford pickup.
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Mar 9, 2013 17:13
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Motronic posted:Yeah, don't trade a 7.3 in. They are worth a premium private party, as it's the last good motor one could get in a Ford pickup. Oh he didn't trade it in. It was just funny that everyone was begging him to. Even at 250k miles and scratched up paint from being used in and out of the woods a 4x4 Lariat supercrew with gooseneck and associated braking equipment fetches quite a nice price when it has been well maintained.
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Mar 9, 2013 17:44
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Word is that the Homeland Security is going after people who deleted their DPFs, so trucks before 07 should go up in value.
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Mar 9, 2013 18:26
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I only heard the EPA were stopping the manufacturers of the "Only to be used for closed racing courses  " DPF deletion kits and tuning systems from selling such kits. They got a $500k settlement from one of the manufacturers and the second-hand market prices have skyrocketed.I would be very shocked if they went after individual owners, but I wouldn't be surprised if they nailed a few shops which installed the kits to the wall as examples.
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Mar 9, 2013 21:27
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The Big Jesus posted:Word is that the Homeland Security is going after people who deleted their DPFs, so trucks before 07 should go up in value. That doesn't make sense. Not that I am disagreeing with you, but Homeland shouldn't be playing with smog laws.
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Mar 9, 2013 22:07
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Welp, got the head off the ALH Motor: First, I had to do some witchcraft to get a head-bolt out:    
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Mar 10, 2013 02:12
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That's either staged or a photoshop. Everyone knows fluted extractors never work.
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Mar 10, 2013 02:54
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Motronic posted:That's either staged or a photoshop. 4th time too
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Mar 10, 2013 03:20
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InterceptorV8 posted:That doesn't make sense. Not that I am disagreeing with you, but Homeland shouldn't be playing with smog laws. The IRS shouldn't be playing doctor, either..
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Mar 10, 2013 20:15
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CommieGIR posted:Welp, got the head off the ALH Motor: Good news, this is actually just the oil return passage, which is now sleeved with a piece of tubing. The block is salvageable. So I've got a good ALH motor for $200.
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Mar 10, 2013 23:34
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CommieGIR posted:Good news, this is actually just the oil return passage, which is now sleeved with a piece of tubing. The block is salvageable. So I've got a good ALH motor for $200. I hate you.
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Mar 11, 2013 00:14
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Billy Tully posted:I hate you. Do not risk the wrath of the chosen one! The EZ Out is a sign!
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Mar 11, 2013 00:47
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Shifty Pony posted:Do not risk the wrath of the chosen one! The EZ Out is a sign! poo poo you're right...we're not worthy, we're not worthy!
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Mar 11, 2013 00:51
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JosephStalinVEVO posted:Only drove it the ~10 miles home so far, but it's pretty amazing. Got passed by a Honda Odyssey going up hill.
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Mar 11, 2013 01:01
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Don't hate him, just convince him to put it in a 944 like we keep talking about in New England.
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Mar 11, 2013 04:19
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Hey everybody, sorry to dive bomb your thread out of nowhere, but I'm on the verge of buying a Golf TDI and never having owned a diesel, have a couple questions. Just trying to separate myth from fact on these things. My commute is fairly short, only about 10 miles. Everyone raves about the economy of diesels, but they always seem to talk about highway usage. What kind of falloff is there for short drives? Also heard chatter that a diesel "needs" stints on an open highway to properly clean itself out. Is that accurate for modern engines? Last, biodiesel. Had a co-worker insist that modern biodiesel blends will eat any rubber it touches. Now my assumption is that new cars will have been built to tolerate higher blends, so I'm calling bullshit on his claims. But I thought I'd bring it up in case anyone here has some insight. In other news, test driving the Golf was a heck of an experience. I've driven small four cylinder cars my whole life and the torque I got out of the Golf put a big stupid grin on my face.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:49
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xzzy posted:Hey everybody, sorry to dive bomb your thread out of nowhere, but I'm on the verge of buying a Golf TDI and never having owned a diesel, have a couple questions. Just trying to separate myth from fact on these things. This is the general diesel chat and questions thread, so you've come to the right place!  quote:My commute is fairly short, only about 10 miles. Everyone raves about the economy of diesels, but they always seem to talk about highway usage. What kind of falloff is there for short drives? 10 miles is on the low side, but if it's mostly motorway driving, it'll be OK. If it's mostly city or under-60mph highway driving, I'd say it's too short. It also depends on your climate. Diesels take longer to warm up, especially in cold weather. If you live in Arizona or something, city driving shouldn't pose a problem in that department. The best way to test this is to take one for a test drive that's similar to your commute and see how quickly it warms up. If the coolant temperature isn't at normal operating level when you're about halfway through, it's very likely that the oil will never reach operating temperature, which means it won't be able to provide as much lubrication. This can also lead to excess moisture in the oil, which would usually be boiled off once the oil is nice and hot. quote:Also heard chatter that a diesel "needs" stints on an open highway to properly clean itself out. Is that accurate for modern engines? On most diesels, the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve opens up above 2500rpm or so. If you never rev the engine this high, the EGR valve will eventually soot up and stick closed. This will cause an emissions error and a relatively expensive replacement. By getting on the motorway and going through the rev range once the engine is warmed up, you'll massage the EGR valve and blow any soot out of the engine. A diesel car that's been exclusively city-driven at low revs for a month or so can make quite a smokeshow the first time it gets on the motorway, although not quite as bad now that particulate filters are standard. Going through the rev range and getting everything nice and hot also helps the particulate filter work more efficiently. An exclusively city-driven car risks clogging up the filter because it never reaches the temperature at which regeneration works and the filter can clean itself. This can lead to another expensive replacement. quote:Last, biodiesel. Had a co-worker insist that modern biodiesel blends will eat any rubber it touches. Now my assumption is that new cars will have been built to tolerate higher blends, so I'm calling bullshit on his claims. But I thought I'd bring it up in case anyone here has some insight. quote:In other news, test driving the Golf was a heck of an experience. I've driven small four cylinder cars my whole life and the torque I got out of the Golf put a big stupid grin on my face. It is quite addictive and useful for passing. But with a short commute, I'd seriously look at the gasoline-powered alternatives. The newer turbo offerings will offer much of the same torque benefits, especially if they've got variable valve timing and direct injection as well (such as VWs TFSI engines). They're also cheaper to buy and gasoline is cheaper than diesel (if you're in the US, which I assume you are). I would put together a spreadsheet with your expected annual mileage, fuel costs, rated mileage and purchase for a couple of different cars to find the total cost per year for fuel. Don't forget to add the payments if you're buying on credit, insurance and other recurring costs. Diesels may also be more expensive to service if you're in the US, as there are a lot fewer diesel mechanics who'll work on passenger cars. I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying a diesel, but you should find out how well it fits your needs, and whether you can live with the drawbacks.
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Mar 13, 2013 09:28
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xzzy posted:Also heard chatter that a diesel "needs" stints on an open highway to properly clean itself out. Is that accurate for modern engines? If it's a somewhat old car (usually early '90s or older), the hoses could be natural rubber which biodiesel will indeed eat up. However, since those hoses tend to fall apart on their own rather quickly, they're often replaced by FKM hoses which it's nonreactive with, and new cars don't use natural rubber hoses or gaskets anymore. Because biodiesel tends to be a really good solvent, it will also tend to clean deposits in the lines and stuff up the fuel filter really quickly. If you're planning on switching to it, it's a good idea to slowly wean it in with increasing bio- to petrodiesel ratios and change your filter soon afterwards. Check your vehicle's warranty, too, if it still has one - many manufacturers don't cover engine damage caused by biodiesel above a certain ratio. EDIT: Holy poo poo, I got mega-ninja'd. solarNativity fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 09:29
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KozmoNaut posted:Going through the rev range and getting everything nice and hot also helps the particulate filter work more efficiently. An exclusively city-driven car risks clogging up the filter because it never reaches the temperature at which regeneration works and the filter can clean itself. This can lead to another expensive replacement. N is for Nipples posted:If it has a DPF (diesel particulate filter) as they are required to post-'07 in 'murka it may well need high-load runs to generate the heat required for the filter to 'regenerate' and clean itself out. Don't the DPF-equipped vehicles have a regen cycle that basically runs the engine super rich to raise the EGTs enough to clean the filters without needing any particular driving style? Wasn't that why the 6.7 Powerstrokes could become flamethrowers when originally released? I guess it could be a larger engine only thing, since I've only heard of that on diesel pickups and big rigs (where I know in the trucking thread a few of the drivers have bitched about DPF regen raping their fuel mileage).
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Mar 13, 2013 15:01
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wolrah posted:Don't the DPF-equipped vehicles have a regen cycle that basically runs the engine super rich to raise the EGTs enough to clean the filters without needing any particular driving style? Wasn't that why the 6.7 Powerstrokes could become flamethrowers when originally released? I guess it could be a larger engine only thing, since I've only heard of that on diesel pickups and big rigs (where I know in the trucking thread a few of the drivers have bitched about DPF regen raping their fuel mileage). Yes, they do. That's pretty much what the regen cycle is, but you have to be at operating temperature before it will kick in, and not just coolant temperature. The engine needs to be fully warm, which just doesn't happen on short trips, especially if it's a bit cold out.
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Mar 13, 2013 15:29
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wolrah posted:Don't the DPF-equipped vehicles have a regen cycle that basically runs the engine super rich to raise the EGTs enough to clean the filters without needing any particular driving style? Wasn't that why the 6.7 Powerstrokes could become flamethrowers when originally released? I guess it could be a larger engine only thing, since I've only heard of that on diesel pickups and big rigs (where I know in the trucking thread a few of the drivers have bitched about DPF regen raping their fuel mileage). Yeah/Naw The engine still needs to be on and running for a regen to work, and it takes awhile. This fat gently caress when it wants a regen while rolling takes about 50 miles of driving. Shutting down in the middle of a regen cycle over and over again will make diesel cranky.
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Mar 13, 2013 15:43
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KozmoNaut posted:On most diesels, the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve opens up above 2500rpm or so. If you never rev the engine this high, the EGR valve will eventually soot up and stick closed. This will cause an emissions error and a relatively expensive replacement. Well I'm looking at a standard transmission, so I can run the revs up whenever I want. I am on the highway once a week, and the wife and I typically spend our summers road tripping, so the car wouldn't be puttering at 35 mph its whole life. The car would definitely see highway miles, just not every day. quote:I know VW and Mazda recommend B5 or less, since there have been issues with their particulate filters clogging and fuel contaminating the oil. Other than that, any car made in the last decade at least should be able to handle B5 and in most cases B10 as well, with no issues at all. Pfft, B10. Here in Illinois, wannabe corn capital of the world, they give out B20 at the pump.  quote:I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying a diesel, but you should find out how well it fits your needs, and whether you can live with the drawbacks. Yeah, I'm having trouble deciding if I'm trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. I'm trying not to let the throttle response guide my decision, but goddamn is it hard. I'm gonna run numbers today and see where that takes me. If I go gasoline, it's gonna be a hybrid, which comes with its own plusses and minuses.. better in the city, but a bit of a turd on the highway. Thanks for the feedback everyone.. you've already been more useful than google searches where it's a lot of "I think" and "I heard" type advice.
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Mar 13, 2013 15:59
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On the TDI you can tell when it is regenning: the idle will be raised a bit, a bit rougher, and if you are at a stop you can normally smell it a little bit. While the engine controls are able to deal with a shutdown in the middle of a regen and will just regen again (if needed) next time it gets up to temperature, shutting down during a regen cycle means you are shutting down the engine with a 1300-1400F EGT. That isn't good for the turbo bearing or the oil in the turbo if you do it regularly. If I notice a regen while I'm out (I have a scangauge which reads EGT) I will normally just rearrange my errands so that it can complete before I need to park. It only takes a few minutes.
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Mar 13, 2013 16:05
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