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Pope Mobile posted:I need to make my bike go faster which means stickers/decals. Where's a good place to find non-motorcycle manu/gear ones? Comedy answer http://www.aerostich.com/sundry/mugs-posters-more/stickers-and-magnets?limit=all I think there's SA-mart sellers who do cool stickers, check there
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Mar 12, 2013 23:40
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jdubbya did mine and they're really good. Good in the sense of quality, not taste, as subject to the viewer, obviously: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3500547&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
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Mar 12, 2013 23:52
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Excellent. Thanks all.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:13
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RuPaul Levesque posted:Thanks! I'm not really an aggressive rider at all, like I said mostly commute to/from work. I think that there's a heavy skew toward performance-oriented riding on this board, so I was expecting nothing but comments about how bad they ride from people who ride supersports or whatever. In the SV650 thread I've gotten a bit of that from this question, so I guess I'm still undecided.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:44
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Pope Mobile posted:I need to make my bike go faster which means stickers/decals. Where's a good place to find non-motorcycle manu/gear ones? Walmart's got a quality selection.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:57
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Pope Mobile posted:I need to make my bike go faster which means stickers/decals. Where's a good place to find non-motorcycle manu/gear ones? Might try ebay, there are tons of manufacturers in Asia that sell knock-offs for pennies. I bought some BMW patches and a key chain that way. Re: Shinkos. My dad had one de-laminate (or whatever it's called when the tread starts to separate from the carcass) while we were on a long road trip.
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Mar 13, 2013 01:02
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Higher end sporty tires will probably "feel" a bit nicer, but Shinkos will get you down the road just fine. The thing with Shinkos is that while they are cheap, a quick look suggest that the cheapest set of Shinkos is going to run about $180. A set of Battlax BT016: $200 Dunlop Roadsmart: $226 Michelin Pilot Power: $226 (Priced on BikeBandit) I don't see why you'd get a set of Shunkos instead of one of the above sets.
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Mar 13, 2013 02:18
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My buddy just got stranded in Petaluma with his KTM 690 SMC. He thinks it's the fuel pump (he recently replaced it due to bad fuel delivery and he tested it after the bike died, wasn't doing poo poo). This a normal KTM thing?
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Mar 13, 2013 02:52
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The injectors can be sensitive to clogging but the fuel pump itself isn't a common failure AFAIK
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Mar 13, 2013 04:11
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Token "Did it straight up fall off? No? Not a normal KTM thing" joke
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Mar 13, 2013 04:27
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alnilam posted:Huh. Must have been weird chance. Thanks! It must have been the wind or something. The weather has been pretty bad except for the occasional sunny day.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:58
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Thinking about selling my 07 DRZ400SM, wondering how to go about getting the most for it. I think I paid about $3700 2 years ago via craigslist. It's all stock besides tail light and battery. I have maintenance logs for all miles back to original owner. Works fine, etc. Also I'm in the los angeles area, if that matters.
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Mar 13, 2013 17:01
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Put it up for 3700 again and run with it. People will low ball you down to closer to 3200 or so. That's probably a fair price if it has no mods. How many miles?
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Mar 13, 2013 17:15
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Put it up for "$4000 OBO" so people offer your target price. It's Craigslist, after all. 
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Mar 13, 2013 18:51
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:My buddy just got stranded in Petaluma with his KTM 690 SMC. He thinks it's the fuel pump (he recently replaced it due to bad fuel delivery and he tested it after the bike died, wasn't doing poo poo). This a normal KTM thing? Spiffness posted:The injectors can be sensitive to clogging but the fuel pump itself isn't a common failure AFAIK I have seen some fuel pump failures on the KTM UK forums, it mostly seems to be after eating dirty fuel and working too hard with a dirty filter if I remember rightly. Its been enough of an issue on the 690E that Rally Raid in the UK provides a replacement unit. http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/KTM-690-Enduro-R-SMC/performance-upgrades/ktm-690-enduro-fuel-pump Mine's never had a problem but I'm super careful about getting dirt in the tank. I have popped an injector, but it wasn't clogged, just leaking
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Mar 13, 2013 19:27
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Alright, so I'm dipping my toes in vehicle maintenance for the first time ever. I need to change the oil in my ninja 250 soon. The drain and filter bolt on it are 17mm. Should I get a regular wrench for that, or a socket wrench? I also need a torque wrench, what do goons recommend? I don't want one of the powered ones, fwiw.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:18
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M42 posted:Alright, so I'm dipping my toes in vehicle maintenance for the first time ever. I need to change the oil in my ninja 250 soon. The drain and filter bolt on it are 17mm. Should I get a regular wrench for that, or a socket wrench? I also need a torque wrench, what do goons recommend? I don't want one of the powered ones, fwiw. Either one of those will work fine. If you don't already have tools I'd suggest buying a socket wrench set, that way you can do all sorts of other assorted things with it as well. As far as torque wrenches go if this is what you're using it for, I wouldn't buy anything too expensive - since torque wrenches can get pretty damned pricey. Do you have a harbor freight nearby? I'd get my torque wrench there really, it's not going to be amazing but for a drain plug it'll be plenty good.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:45
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Get a basic socket set. Something along the lines of this set. Wrenches are handy to have, but for most automotive and motorcycle tasks a socket is going to be far better. Since it's just shadetree mechanic work, you don't need to spend a lot of money - Craftsman or Husky or even Harbor Freight brand will likely be just fine. Get something with at least 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive wrenches (maybe also 1/2 inch) and an assortment of standard/metric sockets. Bonus if it comes with deep sockets as well. You don't really need a torque wrench for just an oil change, but it of course doesn't hurt and you will need one eventually. I've had a run of the mill Craftsman 'digital' torque wrench for years and it has worked well enough for me. Be sure to read the recommended storage settings in the instructions to keep it reasonably accurate. I've got an older version of this guy.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:46
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M42 posted:Alright, so I'm dipping my toes in vehicle maintenance for the first time ever. I need to change the oil in my ninja 250 soon. The drain and filter bolt on it are 17mm. Should I get a regular wrench for that, or a socket wrench? I also need a torque wrench, what do goons recommend? I don't want one of the powered ones, fwiw. Buy a cheap set of metric wrenches and a cheap set of metric sockets. You'll probably have to hammer lightly to get past the torque on the oil bolt(I'm assuming a shop has been doing things) , and you really shouldn't do that on a socket wrench(wrecks the gears). Sockets are for removing things fast or getting to obnoxious places, regular wrenches are for applying larger amounts of force and/or whacking on. Get a $30 harbor freight oil-filled ratcheting torque wrench, they're good enough for anything that doesn't require very high amounts of precision. E: wow that was fast. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 20:57
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Don't use adjustable wrenches for motorcycle work. Bolts are often made of Play-doh. Use a box-end or a socket unless you're really hurting for availability. Don't monkey-torque things when you're putting them back together, it'll make it a pain next time and you might strip the threads or snap the bolt.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:58
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M42 posted:Should I get a regular wrench for that, or a socket wrench? I also need a torque wrench, what do goons recommend? I don't want one of the powered ones, fwiw. Like people have said, get a socket set. Everything on your bike will be metric, so get a metric set if you aren't going to get a combo. I have separate metric and SAE sets and the metric one gets 95% of the use, even on my American-made car. You may also want to buy a 24" 3/8 drive breaker bar as well in case the PO was a gorilla with the oil drain plug. Get a deep spark plug socket if the set doesn't come with one. It is nice to have a set of "regular" (combination open/box) wrenches as well, at least in the common sizes (8,9,10,12,14 mm) for when a bolt is too awkwardly placed to get a socket and driver in. Don't use a crescent (adjustable) wrench for anything. For the longest time I used an old-fashioned beam-style torque wrench for everything, and while they can be tricky to read sometimes and will go out of calibration if you bend or drop them, they worked just fine for millions of mechanics for many decades. A click-type wrench is nice to have, though; try to get one that reads between ~10 and ~150 foot-pounds for the most flexibility. Never use your torque wrench for loosening things, only tightening. Loosen the bolt with the breaker bar and then tighten it with the torque wrench.
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Mar 13, 2013 21:04
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Sagebrush posted:Like people have said, get a socket set. Everything on your bike will be metric, so get a metric set if you aren't going to get a combo. I have separate metric and SAE sets and the metric one gets 95% of the use, even on my American-made car. You may also want to buy a 24" 3/8 drive breaker bar as well in case the PO was a gorilla with the oil drain plug. Get a deep spark plug socket if the set doesn't come with one. Check your tool set that came with the bike first. Some come with spark plug sockets that are very useful.
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Mar 13, 2013 21:12
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Get 6 point sockets, not 12 point, you can probably guess why...
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Mar 13, 2013 21:24
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Guinness posted:You don't really need a torque wrench for just an oil change, but it of course doesn't hurt and you will need one eventually. I've had a run of the mill Craftsman 'digital' torque wrench for years and it has worked well enough for me. Be sure to read the recommended storage settings in the instructions to keep it reasonably accurate.
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Mar 13, 2013 21:39
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You know, this forum is hilarious. I love coming back if I haven't looked at it in a few hours and seeing a huge influx of posts in one of these threads. I generally say "Hmm, M42 probably posted", and drat, I'm never wrong.
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Mar 13, 2013 22:05
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Hey man, helpful is helpful. I'm the kind of person that would strip a bolt and topple a bike onto myself in one go if I didn't ask goons about it first.  Thanks a bunch, people.
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Mar 13, 2013 22:10
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ThatCguy posted:You know, this forum is hilarious. I love coming back if I haven't looked at it in a few hours and seeing a huge influx of posts in one of these threads. I generally say "Hmm, M42 probably posted", and drat, I'm never wrong. Look at Mr. Too Cool To Check Somethingawful All Day At Work
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Mar 13, 2013 22:56
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M42 posted:Hey man, helpful is helpful. I'm the kind of person that would strip a bolt and topple a bike onto myself in one go if I didn't ask goons about it first. Keep your tools organized. Seriously, it's worth the extra time to stop and put everything away, especially if it comes in a nice hard plastic case or something. You don't want to start to do a job and find out you've lost your 10mm or 12mm socket. Take care of your tools and they will take care of you. I have 2 chests shoved full and it looks like a craftsman bomb went off. It's miserable to do any kind of basic job. I'm going to try and got some stuff organized this weekend because it's so miserable. Don't do a Ponies, organize your gear!
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Mar 13, 2013 22:57
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Keep your tools organized. Seriously, it's worth the extra time to stop and put everything away, especially if it comes in a nice hard plastic case or something. You don't want to start to do a job and find out you've lost your 10mm or 12mm socket. Take care of your tools and they will take care of you. I have 2 chests shoved full and it looks like a craftsman bomb went off. It's miserable to do any kind of basic job. I'm going to try and got some stuff organized this weekend because it's so miserable. Don't do a Ponies, organize your gear! Uggh. Sears usually has a Labor Day sale on craftsman hand tools and this year was as usual. Last year I picked up a 299$ set for myself and one for my dad. This year they had a set for 299$ that had way more pieces but were out of stock but ordered it for me. I didn't know till it arrived that it had no such plastic case for the tools. So now I have my own craftsman bomb to deal with. Every drat time I use them.
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Mar 13, 2013 23:08
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Keep your tools organized.
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Mar 13, 2013 23:45
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The last time I took it out, I noticed my bike (XLR250) sputtering quite a bit at low RPM's if I wasn't careful about adding throttle kinda slowly, what sort of problem might I be looking at? Kinda the same thing that happens if you try to accelerate in too high of a gear, but happening a lot earlier than I think it should have (even in first a little bit).
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Mar 14, 2013 01:07
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M42 posted:Hey man, helpful is helpful. I'm the kind of person that would strip a bolt and topple a bike onto myself in one go if I didn't ask goons about it first. Look up basic videos on how to properly ratchet bolts, too. You'd be surprised the retarded poo poo I see people do when trying to loosen/tighten bolts. Always make sure the socket is flush so you don't strip anything, and if you don't have the right tool, don't force it-- buy one. You can pretty much do all maintenance on your bike with a basic socket set (ranging from 7mm to 19mm for most bolts aside from I belive a 21-24mm for the rear wheel), a set of wrenches in the same size, and a torque wrench. Also, extensions are your friend. I'd recommend a 1/4]" drive ratchet with extensions for 7mm to 10mm and a 3/8" drive set for the 10mm+ as most of the small bolts are in small areas. For screwdrivers, I've found the magnetic tipped ones to be pretty weak, so straight generic Craftsman steel ones are great. Also, get a socket set of hex keys too. They're a lifesaver. Worthy notes: "stuff I wish I'd had and bought after and still come in handy all the time" -Dykes (cutters, you prude!) -Vice Grips (name brand are the best; I've used them all) -Needle nose pliers -Channel lock pliers -Magnetic bolt holder, or alternativey if you're still learnin, punch your bolts through a piece of cardboard and label them with sharpie -Simple Green concentrate -Lava pumice soap -Zipties -WD40 -Silicone dilectric grease -Brake and carb cleaner -Breaker bar It may seem like a lot, but I've also done probably five or six engine swaps/rebuilds at this point using this setup. It is literally everything you need and if you shop around won't cost you more than $200 (with $50-80 of that being the torque wrench). Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Mar 14, 2013 |
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Mar 14, 2013 02:25
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Pompous Rhombus posted:The last time I took it out, I noticed my bike (XLR250) sputtering quite a bit at low RPM's if I wasn't careful about adding throttle kinda slowly, what sort of problem might I be looking at? Kinda the same thing that happens if you try to accelerate in too high of a gear, but happening a lot earlier than I think it should have (even in first a little bit). Ooh, this happened to my CL350 a couple weeks ago. You have a hole in your piston! Xovaan posted:I'd recommend a 1/4" drive ratchet with extensions for 7mm to 10mm and a 3/4" drive set for the 10mm+ FYI, he means 3/8", not 3/4. And I would add a manual impact driver to the set of things that come in handy all the time; it loosens up those rusted frozen cheese screws like nothing else without stripping them, and can be used as a massive screwdriver if you just have a screw that needs some manhandling. But you certainly don't need that to change your oil. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Mar 14, 2013 |
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Mar 14, 2013 02:29
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Sagebrush posted:Ooh, this happened to my CL350 a couple weeks ago. You have a hole in your piston! Couldn't it just be a gummy carb, maybe the slide isn't moving like it should?
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Mar 14, 2013 02:58
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I'm hopefully buying a bike off of Craigslist this weekend. The guy assures me he has a clean and clear title. Other than specific mechanical issues with the bike, what sort of things should I do / look out for to keep from getting screwed in a private sale? When I went to get the cash, the bank teller told me a horror story of some dude that sold 3 grand worth of hockey jerseys (?) to a guy off CL and ended up getting paid with counterfeit bills. I'm the buyer here, not the seller, so I'm not worried about that per se, but it's that sort of stuff that I'm trying to look out for.
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Mar 14, 2013 19:21
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One thing I always do that I find a lot of people don't, is matching the VIN on the title to the VIN on the bike. I've never heard of anyone getting screwed by it, but sometimes the titles are pretty vague. The title on the bike I just bought has the manufacture and year, but not the model.
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Mar 14, 2013 20:18
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Yeah I match the VINs from the paperwork to the bike, too. If it doesn't match, abort, but I've never seen a case where it didn't. I also prefer to go to the licensing agency or county office with the seller and do the title transfer. That way seller has no worries about me actually transferring it, and I have no worries about the title's legitimacy. I do "lost title" bikes that way, too; the WA DOL will transfer the title even without a paper title, as long as the legal owner is present and can id themselves.
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Mar 14, 2013 22:03
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Snowdens Secret posted:I'm hopefully buying a bike off of Craigslist this weekend. The guy assures me he has a clean and clear title. Other than specific mechanical issues with the bike, what sort of things should I do / look out for to keep from getting screwed in a private sale? I know it's way paranoid, but I get crazy weirded out about carrying that much cash on me. When I bought my cycle in a similar way as you are, I hid most of it in my friend's car that we came in, and only carried $200 on my person. If it turned out to be some kind of ambush, I was gonna say "sorry man, I didn't bring all the cash, I was going to go to the bank for it." What robber wouldn't be happy with $200? What victim wouldn't be happy with "only" having $200 out of $2500 stolen? Point is, I was probably being paranoid, but on the other hand it seems kind of surprising that the craigslist-based lure'n'mug isn't more common. Or is it?
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Mar 14, 2013 22:04
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alnilam posted:I know it's way paranoid, but I get crazy weirded out about carrying that much cash on me. When I bought my cycle in a similar way as you are, I hid most of it in my friend's car that we came in, and only carried $200 on my person. If it turned out to be some kind of ambush, I was gonna say "sorry man, I didn't bring all the cash, I was going to go to the bank for it." What robber wouldn't be happy with $200? What victim wouldn't be happy with "only" having $200 out of $2500 stolen? It's probably more common than you think. I've had a few shady guys show up to pick stuff up on CL that looked like they were casing the place. I make sure to keep everything locked and when possible I try to meet in public places. This is a good practice for bikes too because you have to have a bit of confidence in the bike to ride it somewhere.
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Mar 14, 2013 22:08
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| # ? May 21, 2024 02:24 |
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alnilam posted:I know it's way paranoid, but I get crazy weirded out about carrying that much cash on me. When I bought my cycle in a similar way as you are, I hid most of it in my friend's car that we came in, and only carried $200 on my person. If it turned out to be some kind of ambush, I was gonna say "sorry man, I didn't bring all the cash, I was going to go to the bank for it." What robber wouldn't be happy with $200? What victim wouldn't be happy with "only" having $200 out of $2500 stolen? Never bring cash when going to see a bike - why would you? If you like it. Come back for it with cash. I've had my share of shady poo poo when trying to buy a used car for turning into a track car so yeah. Don't ever bring cash and don't go to lovely areas alone.
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Mar 15, 2013 01:33
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