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Pez posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for or against buying PLA from other sources than Makerbot? I have a Replicator 2 and Amazon Prime, and some of the prices on Amazon are tempting (as much as 15 bucks cheaper per roll and free shipping with Prime). Unfortunately there seems to be very few reviews and those all seem to be written by folks who are new to 3d printing. I'd like to find a cheaper source (and Makerbot is out of black PLA) but I don't want to drop $30 to find out I can't use it reliably. I buy PLA from http://www.protoparadigm.com/ I use their stuff exclusively, ABS and PLA. It fits on the Makerbot spool holder also. I've never had a problem with the filament from here, I go through about four or five spools a week. Young Freud posted:Anyone know how I can prevent warping with PLA? I tried to print off some stunner shades yesterday, but the shades and one of the arms started warping off the pad? I've been using the same tape from my previous prints this week, should I replace the tape? I did print with a 5% infill, so should I up the infill to prevent it? If you can, heat the bed to about 60C; Despite what Lord Pettis will say, heating is still useful with PLA. Play with your extruder temps to get it just right for you. Change your tape; I found that "frog tape" works well for me when wiped with water during heating.
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Mar 12, 2013 07:14
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UberVexer posted:If you can, heat the bed to about 60C; Despite what Lord Pettis will say, heating is still useful with PLA. Play with your extruder temps to get it just right for you. Change your tape; I found that "frog tape" works well for me when wiped with water during heating. How can I heat my bed? I don't exactly have a heated bed (I did thought the Ultimaker came with one, but I was wrong).
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Mar 12, 2013 07:36
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Young Freud posted:How can I heat my bed? I don't exactly have a heated bed (I did thought the Ultimaker came with one, but I was wrong). I was half implying that it's a worthwhile upgrade for a machine. I'm pretty sure you can add a heated bed to the Ultimaker, no? Try changing your tape and playing with your extrude temperature. When we use PLA here we print at 220C, which some people claim is too high, but it works for us. Edit: I've also found that if you have too much infill it will actually warp more; I only did that test with tall objects printed in ABS though.
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Mar 12, 2013 07:59
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Young Freud posted:How can I heat my bed? I don't exactly have a heated bed (I did thought the Ultimaker came with one, but I was wrong). The common one is 214x214mm, if that fits on your bed. It is sold by many online 3d printing stores. There's also these kapton style ones http://trinitylabs.com/products/24v-200w-kapton-heater http://trinitylabs.com/products/prusa-heated-glass-upgrade http://store.makerstoolworks.com/bed-heater-240-mm-x-310-mm-kapton/ Most people put a pane of borosilicate(pyrex) glass on top. Or sometimes an aluminum plate as a heat spreader.
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Mar 12, 2013 08:16
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This was just posted to the spaceflight thread, but I think some folks in here would find it interesting:CombatInformatiker posted:Sunglass and Shapeways rocket engine competition
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Mar 12, 2013 08:19
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Though trying it might actually be fun.
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peepsalot posted:I don't know if heated bed is any kind of standard option on ultimaker, but with the reprap crowd most people use a PCB as a resistive heater. http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed Considering what I paid for it, you think it would have come with that. The board has the connections for it. $30 dollars sounds like a cheap upgrade, but do you know anyone who sells either the Pyrex or the aluminum plate made-to-order for 3D printing? The acrylic bed has screws for leveling and I'd be continue using that setup since it's what I'm familiar with. I might be better off talking to kafkasgoldfish or quizing the Google Ultimaker board.
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Mar 12, 2013 08:45
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UberVexer posted:I buy PLA from http://www.protoparadigm.com/ I use their stuff exclusively, ABS and PLA. It fits on the Makerbot spool holder also. I've never had a problem with the filament from here, I go through about four or five spools a week. Thanks, I'm gonna try them out! Also I hate you because now I'm about to buy 4 rolls of PLA I don't really need just so I can stop painting things I print :p They have a great assortment of colors.
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Mar 12, 2013 13:19
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I participated in a 2-day long Prusa build-off this weekend: DSC_0525.JPG by OculusLVL1, on Flickr 10 folks put together Prusas, and everyone was printing by the time they walked out. It was an intense weekend: 16 hours on day one, 10 hours on day two. One guy was printing cubed gears after only 14 hours. The folks from SeeMeCNC.com came down to show off some printers, sell some filament, and help out with the event. It was a great event, since everyone could help each other out, and learn from the experience.  Already planning some upgrades for my machine. First up, better cable management. Next, a bigger power supply so I can print ABS. The 200W Dell supply that came with the kit doesn't *quite* have the juice to get things up to ABS temperatures.
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Mar 12, 2013 13:47
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Zuph posted:Already planning some upgrades for my machine. First up, better cable management. Next, a bigger power supply so I can print ABS. The 200W Dell supply that came with the kit doesn't *quite* have the juice to get things up to ABS temperatures. Modify a server supply. They produce 12v without needing a load on the 5v rail (most don't have a 5v rail) and are super cheap! I got a 12volt 41amps supply for $11 shipped from ebay.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:07
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Young Freud posted:Considering what I paid for it, you think it would have come with that. The board has the connections for it. $30 dollars sounds like a cheap upgrade, but do you know anyone who sells either the Pyrex or the aluminum plate made-to-order for 3D printing? The acrylic bed has screws for leveling and I'd be continue using that setup since it's what I'm familiar with. Who? What? I heard my name? PLA obviously expands/contracts at least a little bit but it's *nowhere near* as much as ABS. You might consider turning your fan speed down a bit (maybe 50%, cura should provide that option but if not you can issue an M106 127 command for 50% speed (50% of 255), M107 to shut it down), possibly delay turning the fan on until later layers and try to print at a slightly lower temperature. If you're at 220 or god forbid higher, that's too hot. Likewise, if you have the fan on at full blast at such a high temperature, the temperature delta will be massive thus causing your curling issue. Furthermore, you may need to tweak your z-endstop and first-layer thickness settings. You'll have more success if your first layer is mashed into the tape. Finally, a brim can help too. Add one by adding multiple skirts at a start distance of 0mm. There is a subtle gap between your model and the brim but it works nicely because it's just loose enough that the brim peels off easily enough but is sufficient to hold things down. Incidentally, I did add a heated build platform to my Ultimaker. My build isn't... sophisticated. Although the mosfets on the controller are robust enough to drive a HBP, the power supply isn't up to the task and things get tricky real quick. Instead, I hooked up an automotive relay to the HBP driver on the board which throttles power from a separate 150W power supply. I am using the RepRap PCB heater with a 9"x9" Pyrex (borosilicate) plate from McMaster. I would go to 200W+ if I were to do it again. Hope that helps!
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Mar 12, 2013 23:45
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When you guys start talking about brims, are you talking about rafts? Is there a difference? Thanks for your bit about your experience with building an Ultimaker heated bed platform. It sounds like it's better to just build it separately from the machine.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:52
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Young Freud posted:When you guys start talking about brims, are you talking about rafts? Is there a difference? Raft is a complete layer that is printed and then your object is printed on top. A brim is a large flat area printed around the perimeter of your object to increase the footprint. Rafts have to be peeled off and affect the quality of your bottom layer while brims, in theory, can be easily trimmed off and you preserve the smooth bottom surface.
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Mar 13, 2013 02:39
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I lowered the temperature from 220 to 218 and added a brim and there was still some warping but it was fairly minimal and only on one side. What temperature should I run PLA at? I heard 220 is good for ABS and that's what Cura defaulted to when I installed it. BTW, after running off another set of stunner shades as a test, I went ahead and printed out the next thing on my wishlist...  DYNAMITE! DYNAMITE! He printed out almost perfectly, standing at 4 inches, although I had some trouble with his chin area, where the plastic ended up dripping out of after the nozzle set the lines, and a big blob of plastic that got stuck on his lower lip when my display driver crashed and the nozzle hanged their for a few seconds before my system recovered. The former I can fix in the future by printing out some scaffolding support, but the latter was just an unfortunate happenstance.
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Mar 13, 2013 17:03
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Still way too hot. You might want 200 celcius for the FIRST layer of PLA (just to assure adhesion), and 175-185 for each layer after that. You also want the bed to be about 60 celcius. Next, I have found that the best way to get PLA to stick reliably was to take a 10:1 mixture of water:white glue and spread that over the glass. The PLA will adhere so hard you can't even remove it while hot, but will pop off effortlessly when the bed cools down (may be a terrible idea on non-heated beds, I've not tried).
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Mar 13, 2013 18:21
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Young Freud posted:I lowered the temperature from 220 to 218 and added a brim and there was still some warping but it was fairly minimal and only on one side. What temperature should I run PLA at? I heard 220 is good for ABS and that's what Cura defaulted to when I installed it. Very nice, he looks awesome. The texturing of his hair is really impressive. As for your issue with the shades, the drop from 220 to 218 won't be very effective. I was thinking you should go down to 210 or even 200-205. Your nozzle temperature will naturally waver as much as +/- 5 degrees Celsius. Linux Assassin posted:Still way too hot. You might want 200 celcius for the FIRST layer of PLA (just to assure adhesion), and 175-185 for each layer after that. I don't totally agree with this advice on an Ultimaker, at least not generally. In the Ultimaker community, we discovered that temperatures below 200 yield poor results when doing retraction and potentially poor layer adhesion. I haven't found a good use-case for temps that low but if you want to go that low, I would do it by 5 degrees at a time so you can observe how the extrusion behaves. Keep in mind that the temp measurements on these hobbyist grade machines are pretty poor. A lot of folks have used high quality contact thermometers and discovered that their nozzles were over 10 degrees hotter/cooler than they expected. As such, I believe your calibrations should be done by observation more than anything. Likewise, printing on the blue tape should be very effective and I would recommend against painting your bed with glue (since it isn't glass). If you are feeling brave, you can print directly on to the acrylic (recalibrate your z-stop). The tape provides a little give and protects your bed but the acrylic has fantastic adhesion to PLA, a little too much at times. You will likely scratch up your bed a bit removing your prints. Personally, I choose to run my nozzle at 210 Celsius.
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Mar 13, 2013 23:00
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I'll try and follow this on my next print. I was noticing the temperature was bouncing everywhere and I think the lower temperature will help on the quality of the prints. The plastic has been far too runny, especially to start up.
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Mar 13, 2013 23:08
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What is the tool used to chop a print into multiple blocks?
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Mar 14, 2013 02:06
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Spazzle posted:What is the tool used to chop a print into multiple blocks? netfabb Studio Basic is the free tool that everyone uses for that. You can just drag a slider along an axis and chop!
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Mar 14, 2013 02:09
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Going a bit crazy waiting for the frame parts of my delta prototype to be cut out by the local water jet cutter, I may have gotten a bit obsessive over the cable management... The black nylon bowden tube is just there for mocking up while I wait for the PTFE stuff to arrive.
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Mar 15, 2013 12:14
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I've been interested in 3D printing for a while and will probably get my first chance to play around with one late this year or next as part of my uni work. I've also recently got into guitar playing/modification thanks to buying a cheap Strat-clone and fixing it up to play Rocksmith. That then lead me to discover a YouTube channel for Crimson Guitars. A bespoke luthier's shop that puts out videos detailing their custom builds. Mainly of relevance to this thread is this video discussing how he's hoping to use 3D printers in the future to create some really unique works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8pgfFO4HyM One of the main fears other luthiers express with 3D printing is the loss of character that mass production brings, but considering all the accuracy problems with current 3D printers I don't think that would be a big problem when you can get a completely different tone from a 24" scale neck with a 3mm nut height as opposed to a 25.5" neck with a 6mm nut height. Not to mention how you could use active pickups on a hollow framework body and then fit plates onto that to form the body. A cheap and effective way to produce a semi-hollow mellow-jazz style guitar tone that can still crank up the distortion and melt faces if you feel like it. Searching for 3D printed guitars brings up Cubify.com as an early result but how viable is this kind of construction for "garden shed" workshops using either current model 3D printers or ones with released specs that are due out over the next few months?
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Mar 15, 2013 17:32
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Does anyone know anything about cold casting? I'm talking to a guy who wants some custom jewelry made to advertise his band and adorn his stage costume, but I don't feel right printing out in ABS (especially for sale), I'd rather make some casts and do that poo poo in metal, even if it's powdered aluminum or bronze. Also, since it doesn't matter what plastic I use, I could get started on that stuff now, instead of ordering an ABS spool and having to deal with all the vagaries that come with printing it.
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Mar 15, 2013 17:39
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Young Freud posted:Does anyone know anything about cold casting? I'm talking to a guy who wants some custom jewelry made to advertise his band and adorn his stage costume, but I don't feel right printing out in ABS (especially for sale), I'd rather make some casts and do that poo poo in metal, even if it's powdered aluminum or bronze. This talks about using PLA to make a mold for alumninum casting. Apparently it works pretty well. http://3dtopo.com/lostPLA/ edit: Missed the "Cold" part there. Doh
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Mar 15, 2013 17:50
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Young Freud posted:Does anyone know anything about cold casting? I'm talking to a guy who wants some custom jewelry made to advertise his band and adorn his stage costume, but I don't feel right printing out in ABS (especially for sale), I'd rather make some casts and do that poo poo in metal, even if it's powdered aluminum or bronze. A guy named Taylor Alexander has done a fair bit of work on using 3d printed molds. http://whatabout.no/en/home/item/26-the-ultimate-tool
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Mar 15, 2013 22:51
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Verizian posted:One of the main fears other luthiers express with 3D printing is the loss of character that mass production brings, My biggest worry with a 3D printed guitar would be it suddenly exploding from the stress of having the strings tightened. I'd imagine that with some newer materials and good control over the inter-layer bonding you could pull it off, though.
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Mar 16, 2013 05:54
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kafkasgoldfish posted:A guy named Taylor Alexander has done a fair bit of work on using 3d printed molds. It had totally slipped my mind that I could just produce the models instead of producing the object then molding it. Of course, after looking around for powdered aluminum and bronze, it might not be completely a benefit (given the size, it would take a pound of the stuff, which is $25 bucks plus hardener), but I still have to find a way to determine volume of an object. Lots and lots of preplanning.
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Mar 16, 2013 06:40
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Sagebrush posted:My biggest worry with a 3D printed guitar would be it suddenly exploding from the stress of having the strings tightened. I'd imagine that with some newer materials and good control over the inter-layer bonding you could pull it off, though. Well from what I've seen it's fine with 08's and 09's tuned up to EADGBe but obviously you can't use an ABS guitar with 13's in DGCFAd without the whole thing tearing itself to pieces. You're going from <40KG pressure to >80KG. Most of the stress is on the bridge and neck. both of which can be made pretty stable using a steel hardtail bridge with reinforced brackets and a good steel or carbon fibre truss rod for the neck. Most of the designs I've found over the past few days focus on strengthening those areas and creating a central "pillar" similar to a traditional neck-through design. They either use active pickups with an EQ set for specific tones or create a hollow cavity using carbon fibre panels around an interlinked plastic skeleton for semi-hollows with passive pickups. What I'm looking into is the viability of creating components for non load bearing areas. Extending the scale length to 28" might also help reduce pressure significantly and increase ergonomics for players over 5'10". Also that wood printer shown earlier in the thread probably wouldn't give suitable strength but it might create some interesting tones.
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Mar 16, 2013 17:58
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ReelBigLizard posted:Going a bit crazy waiting for the frame parts of my delta prototype to be cut out by the local water jet cutter, I may have gotten a bit obsessive over the cable management... Can't over-cable-manage! That said, make sure that you properly strain relief your bowden setup. They move a LOT.
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Mar 16, 2013 18:11
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Young Freud posted:It had totally slipped my mind that I could just produce the models instead of producing the object then molding it. Of course, after looking around for powdered aluminum and bronze, it might not be completely a benefit (given the size, it would take a pound of the stuff, which is $25 bucks plus hardener), but I still have to find a way to determine volume of an object. Lots and lots of preplanning. I think I've read that PLA burns out cleanly for a lost wax (lost pla) mold. You might hop over to the blacksmithing thread**, those guys have discussed metal casting (you might even find a local goon who could help). Incidentally, look around locally for shops that do this too. I know there are small shops that do one-off castings and small production runs, I know a guy who knows a guy that works in one  . They might entertain a small private project. I once got a big laser shop to do about 4'x4' of cuttings for me during their downtime and the cost was super reasonable. Those kind of shops are much more approachable then one might think.**while you're over there, you should tell them that zinc fumes are completely harmless.
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Mar 16, 2013 18:30
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kafkasgoldfish posted:I think I've read that PLA burns out cleanly for a lost wax (lost pla) mold. You might hop over to the blacksmithing thread**, those guys have discussed metal casting (you might even find a local goon who could help). Incidentally, look around locally for shops that do this too. I know there are small shops that do one-off castings and small production runs, I know a guy who knows a guy that works in one Here's some info on lost PLA casting.
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Mar 16, 2013 19:15
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kafkasgoldfish posted:**while you're over there, you should tell them that zinc fumes are completely harmless.
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Mar 17, 2013 01:01
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Does anyone know of an American source for this exact color of PLA? https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/consumables/pla-plastic-green075.html I love that green so much but the $40 + european shipping is kind of steep.
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Mar 20, 2013 02:39
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I'm interested in the printrbot jr. mostly just for the sake of 3D printing, I have no real practical use for it. I find the gear printing projects fascinating though, is there something that someone could recommend as a beginner project? I'd like to make something that does something. I'm not looking to make a grandfather clock or anything but it'd be great if it was something I could print and assemble with my 12 year old son.
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Mar 20, 2013 04:44
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Chernobyl Prize posted:I'm interested in the printrbot jr. mostly just for the sake of 3D printing, I have no real practical use for it. I find the gear printing projects fascinating though, is there something that someone could recommend as a beginner project? I'd like to make something that does something. I'm not looking to make a grandfather clock or anything but it'd be great if it was something I could print and assemble with my 12 year old son. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50716
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Mar 20, 2013 04:55
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peepsalot posted:Cube gears are a fun thing to print, though I'm not sure if that fits your requirement of "does something"
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Mar 20, 2013 05:01
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If you're interested in gears and want something that functions, then this is a pretty neat model that shows how an automatic transmission works. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778
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Mar 20, 2013 07:01
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That is awesome! I do not have the time nor inclination right now to fiddle with a 3D printer (someday...) but is there a way to get one of those made for a reasonable price? I'd also be interested if I could get a paradoxical gear set made. http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=-1Gfc1Iq0GY
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Mar 20, 2013 13:22
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Chickenbisket posted:If you're interested in gears and want something that functions, then this is a pretty neat model that shows how an automatic transmission works. That's really cool, thanks!
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Mar 20, 2013 18:14
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 Ply mock up, waterjet cutters are loving boss.
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Mar 22, 2013 10:04
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Wow: "Doctors Replace 75 Percent Of Man's Skull With Implant From 3D Printer"quote:The groundbreaking surgery occurred last week, when 75 percent of an American patient's skull was replaced with an implant from an Oxford Performance Materials 3D printer. According to the New York Daily News, the Connecticut-based company shapes implants specifically to the anatomy of each patient, who in this case, remains unidentified.
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Mar 23, 2013 04:46
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I speculate that 3D-printed bone matter is going to revolutionize the cosmetic surgery industry. Especially in height and limb correction surgery, which has been mostly for those with birth defects but there's some people willing to go through the pain to get a few more inches out of it. The current method is breaking the bone, drilling anchors into the bone, then sheathing the limb in a steel frame and ratcheting them up a millimeter or less a day for months, followed by extensive physical therapy. Now, they can break or cut the bone, scan the severed ends, implant matching bone spacers to length to seamlessly fit, place pins and rods to keep the bone in place and then go straight into rehab after a shorter recuperation to build up muscles and tissues from the length increase, just as if you had a broken bone pinned.
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Mar 23, 2013 13:43
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