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8th-samurai posted:Look man, I was drunk when bought that 1600 film on ebay. Looks like I should shoot the two or three rolls I have left at 800. Well I snyped those at 1200, and the ones that look nice are almost all double exposed..... so yeah, 800 at least.
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Mar 10, 2013 04:22
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i shot some really expired 3200 that came out not lovely:
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Mar 10, 2013 06:12
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Developed my first roll of film today. It ended up being pretty easy - tri-x, d76 @ 7.45m. I think I manage to crimp the bottom of the roll in a few places (there are some weird splotchy highlights at the base of a few frames) but i was pretty drat happy that actual photos appeared when I took the lid off the tank! That said, I suck at focusing with a rangefinder. Badly. I think my hit rate was around 33%.  newport_04-Edit.jpg by alexbeare, on Flickr  newport_11-Edit.jpg by alexbeare, on Flickr I noticed that some of my negatives were very grainy in the shadows, alot more than I expected after looking at similar exposures on Flickr. Is this due to my agitation technique? I was doing an initial 30 seconds, then 3 inversions over 5 secs every 30 seconds. BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Mar 11, 2013 |
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Mar 10, 2013 15:46
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My boss just gave me this last week: Expired in 2000 and was kept properly cooled the whole time. Agfa went bankrupt in 2004 I think.
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Mar 10, 2013 21:21
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I think the film division did go bankrupt but film is still being made under their name (by Fujifilm), I just ordered some. I also drove past an Agfa factory the other day which has that diamond logo on it, but it makes ink for printers or something (http://www.leodis.net/display.aspx?resourceIdentifier=2003911_38969058).
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Mar 11, 2013 00:29
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That is not quite how it went i think. Afga tried to spin out their photographic consumer operations around 2003, the resulting company AfgaPhoto quickly went bankrupt. However Agfa Gevaert is still making film for military and industrial applications that gets repackaged by Rollei which is really just macodirect.de who licensed the Rollei brand name and have the Agfa bulk rolls packaged somewhere else. I think. Then there is the Agfa consumer 200 iso C41 film that is still widely available in Europe, no idea who makes that. edit: Then there are Adox who bought some of the old AgfaPhoto equipment and hired some of the engineers and have been trying to improve/recreate APX400.
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Mar 11, 2013 08:10
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joelcamefalling posted:That said, I suck at focusing with a rangefinder. Badly. I think my hit rate was around 33%. You sure the rangefinder is properly calibrated? Just a common sense check that's all. joelcamefalling posted:I noticed that some of my negatives were very grainy in the shadows, alot more than I expected after looking at similar exposures on Flickr. Is this due to my agitation technique? I was doing an initial 30 seconds, then 3 inversions over 5 secs every 30 seconds. With Foma I ended up developing 1 stop more than the speed I was shooting at. E.g. shoot at 400 iso, develop like it was 800 iso.
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Mar 11, 2013 14:29
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joelcamefalling posted:That said, I suck at focusing with a rangefinder. Badly. I think my hit rate was around 33%.
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Mar 11, 2013 14:53
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Most rangefinders have user-adjustable horizontal alignment. Try focusing on something very far away (clouds, the moon, etc), and see if the patch lines up. If not, adjust horizontal alignment until it is. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to send it to somebody who knows what they're doing.
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Mar 11, 2013 15:31
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I impulse bought a bottle of one shot R09 the other day (it's really not fair to put the crazy shelf full of neat bottles directly next to the film cooler). I'm gonna do some stand 1+100 stuff with it, does any body have a good guide to what times I should be using for different film stocks and EIs?
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Mar 14, 2013 03:15
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8th-samurai posted:I impulse bought a bottle of one shot R09 the other day (it's really not fair to put the crazy shelf full of neat bottles directly next to the film cooler). I'm gonna do some stand 1+100 stuff with it, does any body have a good guide to what times I should be using for different film stocks and EIs? Stand dev is pretty much a one-size-fits-all, http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=927796&postcount=47 is a pretty good runthrough.
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Mar 14, 2013 03:18
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Reichstag posted:Stand dev is pretty much a one-size-fits-all, http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=927796&postcount=47 is a pretty good runthrough. This is my experience as well. Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour is a one-size-fits-all recipe for stand development, 1:30 for +1, and 2h for +2 push. It's one shot so you don't have to worry about maintaining/replenishing it or cross contamination, and it lasts basically forever. It works well for agitation development at a 1:50 ratio, this works well on Acros. My bottle of HC-110 cracked at the seam and I haven't bothered replacing it.
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Mar 14, 2013 05:19
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8th-samurai posted:I impulse bought a bottle of one shot R09 the other day (it's really not fair to put the crazy shelf full of neat bottles directly next to the film cooler). I'm gonna do some stand 1+100 stuff with it, does any body have a good guide to what times I should be using for different film stocks and EIs? Hey 'sup "recently bought R09" buddy! Sadly it's not available locally for me, but I got it from Macodirect, here. I bought it alongside the Rollei C41 Digibase kit. Gonna shoot a couple of rolls and let you know how it all goes. I actually bought a couple of those small bottles as they were cheap (like $3 each). I am also very interested in stand-development, especially for high speed pushes. The linked shot at EL6400 defies belief considering it's 135.
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Mar 14, 2013 06:07
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The thing with crazy pushes like that is that it is dependent on how much light is there to begin with. Pushing to something crazy like 12,000 or w/e is perfectly possible... in daylight. Once you start trying to use pushing to create light where there is none (dark woods at night) it just isn't the same.
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Mar 14, 2013 06:12
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Reichstag posted:The thing with crazy pushes like that is that it is dependent on how much light is there to begin with. Pushing to something crazy like 12,000 or w/e is perfectly possible... in daylight. Once you start trying to use pushing to create light where there is none (dark woods at night) it just isn't the same. Yeah that makes sense. I guess for dark streets it's better to stay within a reasonable amount of push like 1600-3200. Can't wait to try it out. Speaking of which, this also reminds me - when some, obviously unbiased, camera reviewers tested the digital camera's high ISO ability in broad daylight and then gushed about it.
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Mar 14, 2013 06:21
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High ISO should be tested properly, get wasted and see if you can take a photo in a bar about 2 am.
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Mar 14, 2013 06:37
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Get some Delta 3200 and push it all the way to the moon 
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Mar 14, 2013 09:38
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Nah man don't like Delta 3200. Tri X in miniature formats and HP5+ in LF is where it's at (Foma is cool too).
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Mar 14, 2013 10:37
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I'm running low on 35mm film to shoot, so it's time to browse ebay for silly deals on mixed lots of expired weirdness (my favourite!). Should none of the "I'm clearing out my bar fridge and found this" auctions pan out, does anybody have any suggestions for films to look for in the Asian eBay stores (I'm talking about the stores in Thailand and Hong Kong that offer free international shipping)? I'm also planning to place an order with Freestyle, they were willing in the past to ship C-41 dry chemical developing kits to me in Canada and I'm building up a bit of a supply that needs developing. While I'm filling the box to spread out the shipping costs, can somebody remind me which major brand gets relabelled for Arista Premium? Or give some suggestions for stuff from Freestyle?
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Mar 14, 2013 18:45
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ExecuDork posted:I'm also planning to place an order with Freestyle, they were willing in the past to ship C-41 dry chemical developing kits to me in Canada and I'm building up a bit of a supply that needs developing. Their site is kinda crappy, lots of PDFs, but this should be what you're looking for. Edit: they actually don't have a web ordering system in place, yet, so you'll have to order over the phone. The prices for kits are about 10-15$ more than Freestyle's listed prices. LFK fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Mar 14, 2013 |
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Mar 14, 2013 20:28
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When my grandfather gifted me his cameras, he wrote: "always put a reminder on the camera of what kind of film you loaded" Turns out that was a good idea.
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Mar 14, 2013 20:46
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The last time I bought from Freestyle I was able to buy a powder C-41 kit, but no liquids - which is why I later ordered an E-6 kit from Macodirect. The MSDS Freestyle has on their site for that kit (Unicolor) says "Hazard Class: none" in the Transport section. I'll call them when I get around to actually spending money (i.e. in a couple of days). I'll be in Vancouver next month and Beau Photo appears to be very close to my sister's place. Thanks for that, I'll have to check it out (and sneer at some hipsters).
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Mar 14, 2013 20:48
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Be careful with Beau Photo. Their hours of operation are awful and if you don't pay attention, you'll end up driving all the way down there for nothing.
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Mar 15, 2013 11:40
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ExecuDork posted:can somebody remind me which major brand gets relabelled for Arista Premium? Or give some suggestions for stuff from Freestyle?
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Mar 15, 2013 13:50
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Saint Fu posted:Pretty sure Arista EDU Ultra 400 is Tri-X. This comes from google not my own expertise although I have about 10 rolls of the stuff to develop whenever I get back to the states. It is. If you buy a bulk roll, it even says "KODAK 400TX" along the edge of the developed film.
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Mar 15, 2013 14:26
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HPL posted:Be careful with Beau Photo. Their hours of operation are awful and if you don't pay attention, you'll end up driving all the way down there for nothing. Saint Fu posted:Arista EDU Ultra 400 is Tri-X. FasterThanLight posted:It is. Thanks! I like Tri-X, and the price is good.
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Mar 15, 2013 15:55
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Nope, EDU Ultra is Foma. Arista premium 400 is Tri-X.
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Mar 15, 2013 18:40
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I made a box to scan film using my OM-D instead of borrowing my sisters scanner, and I dunno. seems a bit better (or maybe i'm just not cranking contrast to 100 anymore) , but I really need a better way of holding the negatives or something. Scanner (epson 4490)  img011.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr OM-D + cut up flat rate box with a flash shoved in the back:  P3160075-Edit.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr e. Made a better setup using 2 pieces of glass from some picture frames I wasn't using. Have to be careful to avoid newton rings (the gaff tape + shooting glossy side down seems to work though). There's a flash sitting on the floor pointed straight up at the glass table.  I'm liking the results though (although I think I went a little far with the levels and curves onthis shot)  P3160089-Edit.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 01:48
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8th-samurai posted:Nope, EDU Ultra is Foma. Arista premium 400 is Tri-X. Thats what I always heard, and the results are comparable, but whenever I use original Tri-X I get plenty of green cast in my pre-wash, while Arista film anti-halation layer doesnt come off, or at least doesnt color the water.
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Mar 17, 2013 08:27
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Putrid Grin posted:Thats what I always heard, and the results are comparable, but whenever I use original Tri-X I get plenty of green cast in my pre-wash, while Arista film anti-halation layer doesnt come off, or at least doesnt color the water. Uh, Tri-X (maybe all Kodak films) have a purple/blue antihalation layer. Foma is green though.
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Mar 17, 2013 08:51
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Depends on the size of film for Foma, if I remember rightly the 4x5 and 120 are green, while the 35mm doesn't really have a coloured anti halation layer. I have no idea why.
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Mar 17, 2013 09:11
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Spedman posted:Depends on the size of film for Foma, if I remember rightly the 4x5 and 120 are green, while the 35mm doesn't really have a coloured anti halation layer. I have no idea why. I have only shot LF Foma.
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Mar 17, 2013 09:25
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Mr. Despair posted:I made a box to scan film using my OM-D instead of borrowing my sisters scanner, and I dunno. seems a bit better (or maybe i'm just not cranking contrast to 100 anymore) , but I really need a better way of holding the negatives or something. I'm doing this too, as soon as I get a macro lens and a light table (I sold my flash). The photos look much better. I wonder how easy it would be to stitch a medium format shot.
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Mar 17, 2013 18:45
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Santa is strapped posted:I'm doing this too, as soon as I get a macro lens and a light table (I sold my flash). The photos look much better. If you have photoshop? Should be super easy to just use photomerge.
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Mar 17, 2013 18:57
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Good point, I've heard good stuff about photomerge.
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Mar 18, 2013 00:03
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Santa is strapped posted:Good point, I've heard good stuff about photomerge. I used photomerge to stitch this together from 3 120 scans, just letting photoshop handle all the settings. Painfully easy to do.  Open Cut by MrDespair, on Flickr
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Mar 18, 2013 00:34
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Mr. Despair is good people and sold me his OM-PC and for shits and giggles I took it to a hockey game. It meters really drat well. This was with the 28mm f/2.8 and some basic Fuji 400.
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Mar 18, 2013 04:15
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Mr. Despair posted:I used photomerge to stitch this together from 3 120 scans, just letting photoshop handle all the settings. Painfully easy to do. I clicked on the photo to fav it, and I already had. Good thing I upgraded my POS computer so it can handle 3 120 scans hopefully.
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Mar 18, 2013 14:23
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I'm still browsing eBay for cheap mixed lots of old film, and I've found a few that include 35mm Polaroid film such as Polapan. Wikipedia tells me they get developed in a dedicated hand-cranked "AutoProcessor". Has anybody shot any film like that? I'm curious, I'd never heard of 35mm Polaroid film before today, other than ordinary C-41 film with the Polaroid brand name on it.
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Mar 18, 2013 20:54
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ExecuDork posted:I'm still browsing eBay for cheap mixed lots of old film, and I've found a few that include 35mm Polaroid film such as Polapan. Wikipedia tells me they get developed in a dedicated hand-cranked "AutoProcessor". I actually had a look at this film a while ago, seems to be way more hassle than it's worth what with the extra hardware and such.
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Mar 18, 2013 21:11
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