|
Furniture is used here in the Boston area, but the space I parked had nothing. At least I don't think they damaged anything.
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 02:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 23:57 |
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:My nephew brought over his 2006 Subaru WRX Sti so we could replace the front rotors, which are warped. Figured it'd be a one-hour job - it's two bolts per caliper, and nothing holds the rotor on.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 02:35
|
|
|
Cenodoxus posted:
Seat Safety Switch posted:My sympathies. The Brembo bolts are kind of infamous for doing that and I'm not really sure if there is any way to really prevent it when you're maintaining them (other than maybe replacing the bolts every time and using copious antiseize). They get really hot because they're massively heavy cars that are frequently driven hard. No experience with this type, a 2' 3/4" driver, and this. I hope I score a unit from the Impreza forums for $225.00. The guy has my money & is supposed to ship it out tomorrow. Hope I don't regret this, because ain't no fool like an old fool. He schooled me on just what Seat Safety Switch said. "Was it the bottom bolt?"  "Yup." gently caress. We managed to get WD-40 on the top one but couldn't see poo poo through the dust shield and didn't want to contaminate the pads by cropdusting the whole thing. I'll be putting new pads on anyway, as it turns out, so I'll be cropdusting the driver's side because I'm a VV advice: to be taken. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Mar 18, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 02:43
|
|
|
Skip the wd40. Get pb blaster or seafoam deep creep. Hose it all down and let it sit. The more you do it the better it will work.
Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Mar 18, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 03:41
|
|
|
PB Blaster and AeroKroil work well. So does Wurth's Rost-off.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 03:48
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:I picked up a red top gel cell 1000 CCA battery for my Jetta about a year ago, I love the damned thing. I've had one in my Forester since 2005, and it's still working perfectly despite having spent five years in 110F summers and -40F winters. So far, the battery has outlasted a center differential, one set of accessory belts, two sets of tires, three windshields, and a set of front brake pads, so I'd say the extra $40 that battery cost was probably worth it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 03:52
|
|
|
nm posted:In Chicago, parking somewhere where someone "reserved" with lawn furniture will result in far more than a note. When I'm walking on foot, I always move the lawn chairs off onto the sidewalk. Am I an rear end in a top hat?
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 04:09
|
|
|
Giblet Plus! posted:When I'm walking on foot, I always move the lawn chairs off onto the sidewalk. Am I an rear end in a top hat? Naw, just a badass like this dude. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 04:16
|
|
|
50-50 acetone and atf mix is supposed to work well for stuck bolts according to others in AI; better than the commercial premixed stuff apparently. I need to remember to try it sometime. Always forget to pick up acetone at the store.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 04:17
|
|
|
Giblet Plus! posted:When I'm walking on foot, I always move the lawn chairs off onto the sidewalk. Am I an rear end in a top hat? You're an rear end in a top hat in that someone else will park there without realizing it was 'reserved' and then get their car keyed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 04:40
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Picture to follow. I am in the midst of a nightmare. Yeah that happens. The fix is to put in a helicoil or timesert. Think they're M12x1.5
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 04:49
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Picture to follow. I am in the midst of a nightmare. Can you weld something to the stub and twist it out with that? Or crush a vise-grip on the top + bottom end of the bolt and turn it? Or squeeze it in an actual vise?
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 05:43
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:
Continuing what Black88GTA said, you could weld on a replacement head and take the vice grip or breaker bar to that, but also keep carefully heating that surrounding housing with the torch like you have been to give it a little more wiggle room. The only concern I have with welding on a head is that seam will most likely break easier than the original head, but at least you'll get somewhere with it before it does. EDIT: To remove any doubt, I am a lovely welder though, so you'll probably have a much better time with it than I have in the past. Cenodoxus fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Mar 18, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 06:30
|
|
|
Yeah, try heating the surrounding housing and then shooting the bolt (and ONLY the bolt) with freon spray. You might want to hold your breath while doing this, and/or do it outside with a bit of a breeze going. As soon as you do that, IMMEDIATELY try turning the bolt. In fact, make sure you have your pliers clamped onto it before you shoot it with the cold spray.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 06:39
|
|
|
Just drill it out. If you go from the back it might even catch and turn itself out once you remove some material. Those threads are going to be toast anyway so it doesn't matter if you have to go through the whole thing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 06:43
|
|
|
Going from the back won't help (it'll just screw what's left of the threads "in" and out the other side instead of backing them out) but a left handed drill bit sometimes will. Honestly, I usually prefer to use a dremel to grind the end of the broken-off stub perfectly flat, then center punch it as accurately as I can and drill through with a small drill bit, making sure to have it absolutely perpendicular so the hole ends up perfectly straight down the center of the bolt. Then work my way up with progressively larger drills till I can see the peaks of the threads starting to show through. Carefully continue till the only remnant of the bolt is the threads themselves, then use a sharp strong pick/awl to pick the threads out of the hole and run a tap through it. Usually you only have to pick out the first 2-3 turns worth of threads, once they're out you have enough to get a quality tap started and it'll chew the rest of the bolt threads to pieces a little at a time. Had to do that on the turbo mounting flange on the exhaust manifold for my M54A2 because I didn't feel like spending a couple hundred on a salvaged manifold after breaking off one of the (severely rusted) studs. Saved the original threads in almost perfect condition.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 06:47
|
|
|
Root Bear posted:Another kind of oil pan mishap; rust from the inside-out! That rusted from the outside... I've seen this a couple times on subarus. Actually the worst one I ever saw was on my own subaru. I started scraping the bottom of the pan with a screwdriver to see how bad the rust was, and I loving put the screwdriver through the bottom of the pan. I had no idea how the gently caress it can rust that much. I'd think once it started weeping oil the rust would stop, but never underestimate road salt....
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 14:33
|
|
|
I noticed the paint flaking away and some ugly rust on my GTP's oil pan when I changed the oil last weekend. I may have to do something about that soon.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 15:04
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:That rusted from the outside... I've seen this a couple times on subarus. Actually the worst one I ever saw was on my own subaru. I started scraping the bottom of the pan with a screwdriver to see how bad the rust was, and I loving put the screwdriver through the bottom of the pan. I had no idea how the gently caress it can rust that much. I'd think once it started weeping oil the rust would stop, but never underestimate road salt.... gently caress, when I sold my truck last month the entire underside had a liberal coating of rust from 12 years of road salt and midwest US humidity. I'm glad I never experienced a leaky oil pan, and I'm especially glad I never felt the urge to scrape poo poo off before the sale. Is there any way to prevent this? Coating with sealant, regular car washes, Satanic rituals?
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 15:40
|
|
|
Cenodoxus posted:Coating with sealant, regular car washes, Satanic rituals? Yes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 15:41
|
|
|
Cenodoxus posted:gently caress, when I sold my truck last month the entire underside had a liberal coating of rust from 12 years of road salt and midwest US humidity. I'm glad I never experienced a leaky oil pan, and I'm especially glad I never felt the urge to scrape poo poo off before the sale. Let your front main seal and power steering system leaks run free. Never worry about a rusty (or even dry) oil pan again!
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 15:42
|
|
|
kastein posted:Let your front main seal and power steering system leaks run free. Never worry about a rusty (or even dry) oil pan again! If its a 4.0, it does it for you. Its a feature, not a bug.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 15:44
|
|
|
If you loosen your oil pan bolts a turn or two, it'll solve any rust on the pan forever 
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 16:59
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:If its a 4.0, it does it for you. Its a feature, not a bug. The Timed release Chassis lubrication and protection system. Factory standard for all 4.0l jeeps.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 19:19
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:The Timed release Chassis lubrication and protection system. Factory standard for all 4.0l jeeps. Mine is malfunctioning and only releases a paltry drop or two per month 
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 19:31
|
|
|
This entire thread is crazy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2013 19:47
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:I hope I score a unit from the Impreza forums for $225.00. The guy has my money & is supposed to ship it out tomorrow. Hope I don't regret this, because ain't no fool like an old fool. He schooled me on just what Seat Safety Switch said. Hopefully you get those replacements, but if that falls through you can cross those calipers to other cars. It's a pretty popular OEM offering. Volvo S60R, Pontiac G8 GXP, Mitsubishi Evo, Acura TL, and 1st gen Cadillac CTS-V all used the same Brembo calipers IIRC, and for some reason CTS-V calipers are stupid cheap. You'll just have to settle for a different color or getting them painted later.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 00:24
|
|
|
They're not identical. Mounting and piston size varies so it needs to be another sti caliper. From the same side too because the pistons are staggered.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 00:35
|
|
|
Ah OK. I thought even the mounting bosses were the same from when I looked them up before, but I'm only going from memory now
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 00:41
|
|
|
If you have a Volvo, all you need to do is not perform your PCV flame trap maintenance. This turns on "lazy owner mode" and enables the engine's high-pressure oil coating system.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 00:55
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:Can you weld something to the stub and twist it out with that? Or crush a vise-grip on the top + bottom end of the bolt and turn it? Or squeeze it in an actual vise? Had I an arc-welder, that would have been my first choice. I have no welding equipment (I can rent a MIG/TIG locally for a reasonable rate). Only the top was exposed, a good, meaty 1/2-inch. Three pairs of Vise-Grips later, it sheared off. I was using galv pipe to lock down the grips, too, as well as an extension to turn the bolt. Tried the vise after it was clear working on it on the car was a fool's errand; mine is a Soviet-made beast that weighs about fifty pounds and is lagged to the corner of my workbench on a 6" post, but the jaws could not get purchase no matter how much I dogged it down. We were reduced to cutting flat sides with a Dremel & getting a pair of Vise-Grips on good, then heating the gently caress out of the journal with a propane torch. After 90-seconds of applied jet, it would turn. At 1/2-turn, we had to stop & reset the VGs. Then repeat the process. We got about three rotations before we ran out of bolt. Incidentally, while I was heating it I was applying ice cubes (all I had!) to the top of the bolt/VG. No joy. I drilled it out with my cheap drill press, way off-center (naturally). After seven drill bits I gave up. Went out tonight & bought a set of the heaviest bits Lowe's had and was able to nearly center the hole using my patented idiotic "drill bit makes a good router with 3-in-1 oil" method. Tomorrow, it goes to a machine shop, where they have big-boy tools, and they should be able to straighten out my mess & get a Heli-Coil into it. I just wonder if the constant heating over 2-hours didn't kill the journal. The four piston seals are fine. This was a very steep learning curve. Several different steps will be taken on the driver's side, such as: Step 1: Shear Off Bolt Step 2: Take It To Machine Shop. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Mar 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:10
|
|
|
Might as well helicoil both holes, and possibly the other caliper while it's being done. Doubt you hurt anything by heating it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:17
|
|
|
I know this is post-horse-bolt but if you need to drill something out this is what I do. *Make an indent in the centre. Using a punch or a particularly solid screw or nail. Just enough for a small drill bit to find purchase. *Carefully use the smallest drillbit I can to make a pilot hole. *Drill out with a bigger bit etc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:18
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I know this is post-horse-bolt but if you need to drill something out this is what I do. I usually go with a bit matching the circumference of the broken bolt and start with that, drill enough to get a centered indent, and then step down to a smaller bit to make the pilot hole. And then out comes the EZ-Outs
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:22
|
|
|
You rational adults. You so precious. Nothing says trouble like rushed, single-minded determination. Nothing makes more work for shops, either. I was bound & determined to get the kid back in his car on the road. the  of just how much these calipers cost came later. Boy, that was a real fun moment. Nothing like resentfully marinating in the bitter pools of failure while finding out just how much this is gonna sock you in the wallet.Live & learn. I'm off for a pint or three. Meanwhile, my baby sits in the rain while the Impreza does it's paperweight imitation, warm & dry in my garage. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Mar 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:23
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:You rational adults. You so precious. Its okay dude, I can't count the times my idiocy has left me stranded. And you were just trying to do standard maintenance. It happens. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Mar 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:35
|
|
|
Dake Darkstalker posted:This entire thread is crazy. You might say its insanity. AUTOMOTIVE INSANITY 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:39
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:I usually go with a bit matching the circumference of the broken bolt and start with that, drill enough to get a centered indent, and then step down to a smaller bit to make the pilot hole. WITCH 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:46
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:I usually go with a bit matching the circumference of the broken bolt and start with that, drill enough to get a centered indent, and then step down to a smaller bit to make the pilot hole. Those only work for you, stop trying to trap him in an even deeper hole. That's not nice.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 23:57 |
|
|
But we all know the best way to remove broken EZ-outs is with an O/A rig... That won't leave the caliper unscathed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:55
|
|
