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There is a special place in hell reserved for the inner ball joints on control arms. 4 hours of hammering to get both sides loose. Couldn't use a pickle fork because I'm taking the subframe out but the control arms are good.
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Mar 16, 2013 20:00
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I attempted to remove e30 control arms for reuse. I swear its not possible to remove them without destroying the joints
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Mar 16, 2013 22:51
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Crustashio posted:There is a special place in hell reserved for the inner ball joints on control arms. You don't have an air chisel?
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Mar 16, 2013 23:11
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Motronic posted:You don't have an air chisel? I don't have any air tools. Not really an option as this garage is only temporary winter storage. I barely have enough room to move in there. Dyscrasia posted:I attempted to remove e30 control arms for reuse. I swear its not possible to remove them without destroying the joints Put the nut back on the stud (so you don't destroy the threads) and just hammer on it from the engine bay with an extension and the biggest fuckoff hammer you can find. Liberal use of PB blaster and heat. It took a LOT of pounding to get it loose. My shoulder still hurts. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 03:07
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I upgraded my 135's suspension with all the m3's, the worst thing in the world is where the front lower control arms attach to the hub. The bolt has a torx t40 on the top of it to stop it from spinning, so you can only use a wrench to loosen it. After stripping the torx immediately (it was rusted and basically just fell apart), my only options were use a hack saw and cut the bolt off or somehow find a way to stop it from spinning. Luckily I was able to loosen the nut enough to get a bite on the bottom of the bolt with a pair of vice grips and was able to get it off. Turned a ~6 hour job into about 10. gently caress that thing. edit: with the m3 front suspension it adds -1 degree or camber or so, I'm finally able to fit 245s up front after cutting the inside of the fender lip out. I got the new dunlop zIIs in 245/35/18, I was running 225/35/18 star specs before this and I noticed the difference immediately in steering feedback and grip. I have 275/40/18s in the back and they still struggle with grip in 1st and 2nd gear, but at least I don't spin in the beginning of 3rd like the star specs. I also have 510 wheel torque so they still grip better than I expected. doogle fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 03:32
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doogle posted:135i chat Will you post a picture? I really like the look and feel of the 1 series, but I am poor.
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Mar 17, 2013 08:04
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I have a question that I am struggling to find the answer to in either my BMW shop manual, or via google. On my 1990 BMW 325i E30 there is a little box to the passenger side of the relay/fuse box. If you remove the cover there are two small jumper wires connected to it. What is this box? Edit: Just for lack of confusions sake, I am not talking about the Main relay box. Edit 2: It is black with a black lid. jadebullet fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 16:11
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Can you take a picture? Sounds like a fusible link.
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Mar 17, 2013 16:39
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I'm in the middle of swapping driver's doors between E34s right now. I've got the doors off both cars, will report back later. Hopefully nothing goes terribly wrong!
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Mar 17, 2013 22:38
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Alright, so it turned out ok minus 2 things: (For reference, the door check on my 1995 530i driver door ripped through the sheet metal so I'm swapping in the door from my 1994 540i parts car until I get a reinforcement plate to fix the problem.) 1. Difference in bottom door trim between 94 and 95 E34 models. The trim on the 95 mode is bigger and sticks out more. I got the door from the 94 all set up on my 95 and close the door and it's all smooth and I'm feeling good and then I look down and FML, there's a recessed area where the trim on the 94 door doesn't fill in the same space that the rear door does with its trim. I could switch out the trims but I'm pretty sure that they'd just end up snapping apart in my hands. Also, when I closed the door from the 530i after hanging it on the 540i for temporary storage, the bottom trim cracked on the interior side because it's too big to fit on that car.  2. My power mirrors on my 95 don't work now. Only the driver side power mirror on my 94 works now. The side mirrors on the 94 used to dip when I put the shifter in reverse, now they don't. The side mirrors on my 95 have never dipped when in reverse. Also, the switch on my 94 has two extra pins on it that my 95 doesn't have. Other than that though, it's all good. The power locks and windows work just fine so the important stuff's in order. Has anyone ever done the door check reinforcement plate fix on an E34 and what's the best deal for buying the reinforcement plates?
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Mar 18, 2013 02:13
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I have an '08 128i. Lately when I go on a long trip - 2+ hours - the Service Engine Soon light will come on a couple hours in. It will stay on for a day or two afterward and then go out. I just got annual services a few months ago. Does anyone know what might be causing it? I'll just take it to my mechanic but I'd like a frame of reference.
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Mar 18, 2013 11:48
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The major project at our New England AI meet on Saturday was a complete suspension rebuild on my e30, bushings, control arms and all. Boy is that pass. side ball joint nut a complete bitch.
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Mar 18, 2013 14:16
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So if I drive my E30 to a NEAI meet I can get a suspension rebuild?!
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Mar 18, 2013 14:36
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rscott posted:So if I drive my E30 to a NEAI meet I can get a suspension rebuild?! Only if you bring 35 lbs of pulled pork, a couple gallons of cole slaw, and a whole bunch of beer. Edit: Also a whole shitload of smokes. Noise Complaint fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Mar 18, 2013 |
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Mar 18, 2013 14:45
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Martello posted:I have an '08 128i. Lately when I go on a long trip - 2+ hours - the Service Engine Soon light will come on a couple hours in. It will stay on for a day or two afterward and then go out. I just got annual services a few months ago. Does anyone know what might be causing it? I'll just take it to my mechanic but I'd like a frame of reference. Get codes pulled. It may not be current but at least it will be in the history. Could be as simple as a gas cap or something else.
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Mar 18, 2013 15:37
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Yeah actually I just filled the tank an hour or so ago and when I started the car back up the light was out. If that means it's the gas cap, how do I go about fixing it? Just order a new cap and install it? Also, what do you mean by "get codes pulled?" Sorry, I know very little about the electronics stuff, having only done mechanical repairs like replacing the breaks and so on.
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Mar 18, 2013 16:26
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Martello posted:Yeah actually I just filled the tank an hour or so ago and when I started the car back up the light was out. If that means it's the gas cap, how do I go about fixing it? Just order a new cap and install it? ODBII codes, I think... You can go any auto-parts store, rent a code reader often for free and figure out what code the car is throwing... Assuming you can do this on a BMW.
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Mar 18, 2013 17:04
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Martello posted:Yeah actually I just filled the tank an hour or so ago and when I started the car back up the light was out. If that means it's the gas cap, how do I go about fixing it? Just order a new cap and install it? Yep! Any place can read codes if the tool can read OBD-II. Codes are usually P0XXX (insert what ever numbers are there). Report back with what codes are in the computer.
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Mar 18, 2013 17:33
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Martello posted:I have an '08 128i. Lately when I go on a long trip - 2+ hours - the Service Engine Soon light will come on a couple hours in. It will stay on for a day or two afterward and then go out. I just got annual services a few months ago. Does anyone know what might be causing it? I'll just take it to my mechanic but I'd like a frame of reference. I sent you a PM, but I figured I'd put it in the thread as well for anyone else who might come across it. I had this problem with my 328i. I'd drive 120 miles or so at a time and the SES light came on. A day or so later it would turn off. I never really noticed any problem with the car other than the light. I took it to BMW to get it serviced and mentioned the light while I was there. It turned out to be VANOS. They replaced it and I haven't had the problem since.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:58
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Cojawfee posted:I sent you a PM, but I figured I'd put it in the thread as well for anyone else who might come across it. I had this problem with my 328i. I'd drive 120 miles or so at a time and the SES light came on. A day or so later it would turn off. I never really noticed any problem with the car other than the light. I took it to BMW to get it serviced and mentioned the light while I was there. It turned out to be VANOS. They replaced it and I haven't had the problem since. I'll try pulling the codes like you explained in that PM and others have here, and see what the deal is. Since the light went out when I filled the gas tank I suspect it may be just the gas cap but I'll definitely check the codes to make sure. Thanks to everyone for your help.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:42
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Crustashio posted:There is a special place in hell reserved for the inner ball joints on control arms. I missed this the first time I read this page of the thread, but, this bolt stymied the collected wrenching hands of like 15 AI posters this weekend on my e30.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:54
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Question, how are the E39 5 series? Wagons specifically, although it shouldn't make a difference I suppose. I've seen some now and then for very reasonable prices, although usually with higher mileage. here's an example: http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/3621778089.html How good are the automatics, and how much would I have to have aside for a car like this to replace worn parts? If I could get one ready for another 100k relatively cheap I might keep an eye out.
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Mar 19, 2013 04:00
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leica posted:Question, how are the E39 5 series? Wagons specifically, although it shouldn't make a difference I suppose. I've seen some now and then for very reasonable prices, although usually with higher mileage. here's an example: http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/3621778089.html Notice there is a ding on that rear passenger rear end, right above the rear light. That turned me off from even going to look at it. 
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Mar 19, 2013 06:29
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KakerMix posted:Notice there is a ding on that rear passenger rear end, right above the rear light. That turned me off from even going to look at it. Use it as leverage to bargain and get it fixed cheap. As long as it's not just the tip of a whole iceberg of problems, I guess. Don't listen to me though, I have that bad habit of thinking I'm going to fix things like that and then just learn to live with them.
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Mar 19, 2013 07:04
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Is the fan shroud on a e36 318i necessary or is it just a 'so the fan doesn't gently caress you up' thing? Because mine's falling off and i'd rather just take it off if it doesn't make a difference
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Mar 19, 2013 07:46
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Make sure you test drive an e39 wagon before you get set on them. They are slow in automatic form (540 excluded). I found one with a great price and style 5s but I couldn't deal with the auto.
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Mar 19, 2013 11:38
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yyyyyy posted:Is the fan shroud on a e36 318i necessary or is it just a 'so the fan doesn't gently caress you up' thing? Because mine's falling off and i'd rather just take it off if it doesn't make a difference Fan shrouds are usually there to help provide proper airflow from the fan and to make sure more of the air it's moving is cooler air from outside rather than hot air from the engine bay. If you can find a cheap replacement, I would. On the other hand, I'm trying the fan-delete mod in my e36 m3 and so far haven't observed any differences on my temp gauge than before, so maybe it's not so important. Probably depends a lot on your driving conditions.
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Mar 19, 2013 15:22
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Crustashio posted:Make sure you test drive an e39 wagon before you get set on them. They are slow in automatic form (540 excluded). I found one with a great price and style 5s but I couldn't deal with the auto. Well I guess I'm not too worried about it being slow, just more concerned that the auto isn't a pile of poo poo that will cost me 3k to replace if and when it shits the bed. I've been looking at BMW/Volvo/Saab wagons to replace my Crown Vic but something tells me it would be huge mistake in terms of reliability and cost of maintenance/replacement parts. I've been spoiled by the Vic because it hasn't let me down for the past 100k and is absurdly cheap (and easy) to maintain and fix. I like the e39 5 series a lot, but I'm guessing the higher mileage ones are going to need quite a bit of wear parts replaced to get them where they should be. And I shudder at the thought of having to replace an auto trans because it hasn't been maintained properly or has just run it's course.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:40
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leica posted:Well I guess I'm not too worried about it being slow, just more concerned that the auto isn't a pile of poo poo that will cost me 3k to replace if and when it shits the bed.
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Mar 19, 2013 17:13
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leica posted:Well I guess I'm not too worried about it being slow, just more concerned that the auto isn't a pile of poo poo that will cost me 3k to replace if and when it shits the bed. I've been off handedly searching for e34 and e39 wagons in manual during my half a year long hunt for an e30 and I've seen several pop up in that time. They aren't totally nonexistent. There is an AWD manual e34 wagon on craigslist in Oregon right now. If you're willing to deal with front wheel drive there are better options. What is your budget/price range?
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Mar 19, 2013 17:32
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Lowclock posted:It's a GM 5L40E. Parts are pretty cheap and available, but if it's anything like every other GM auto I've driven, it suuuuccckkkksss. On the contrary, its an absolute poo poo pile. The transmission is way to weak to handle the torque of the inline six and it really can't handle the weight. Its only rated for 250ft/lbs of torque, and the 3.0 is pushing 250, so do the math. If your going to do an automatic in a BMW, make sure its a ZF. Find an E34 wagon if possible, it will have the ZF 4HP22. That transmission is stout as poo poo, as long as you don't rev the motor long while its in park or neutral.
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Mar 19, 2013 17:54
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I really want to switch to a 1 series. I was thinking about getting a newer 328, but I don't feel like spending 10K for what is essentially a car I already have with a facelift. Would it be better to get a newer 128 or a couple year older 135? I remember hearing there was trouble with the turbo in certain years, but I don't remember which.
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Mar 19, 2013 18:44
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Cojawfee posted:I really want to switch to a 1 series. I was thinking about getting a newer 328, but I don't feel like spending 10K for what is essentially a car I already have with a facelift. Would it be better to get a newer 128 or a couple year older 135? I remember hearing there was trouble with the turbo in certain years, but I don't remember which. Its the HPFP that would be more of an issue. The 135i will be stupid fun, but if its looked after, I don't see any reason to worry.
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Mar 19, 2013 19:34
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Most of the HPFP issues were found in N54-powered cars; there doesn't appear to be a significant number of fuel pump failures for the N55. That being said, 2010+ 135i's have the N55 motor if you're concerned about the fuel pump. There were also some issues with the wastegate for the N54, but as far as I know, that affected the 335i more than the 135i.
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Mar 19, 2013 19:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Its the HPFP that would be more of an issue. The 135i will be stupid fun, but if its looked after, I don't see any reason to worry. This came up in here a while ago, and apparently the 10 year warranty that they extended for the HPFP is for the instance of the part, so if it ever fails pretty much ever, you'd be covered for a free replacement. Wash rinse repeat until you get one that lives for 10 years.
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Mar 19, 2013 19:55
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Here's a stupid problem: My front driveway uses two rows of concrete pavers as tracks for the wheels, the rest being uneven rooted dirt. The concrete pavers are a very shallow "V" shape, and in most cars with narrower tires the tire sits relatively flush in the bottom of the "V". On my M3, the tire is too wide to fit into the "V" so it sits unevenly, just resting on the highest part with the rest of the tire off the ground by a tiny amount. Is this unhealthy for the wheel? Should I try and fill in the "V" portion with gravel or something? 
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Mar 19, 2013 19:57
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No problem at all
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Mar 19, 2013 20:09
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Oiltalk. My dealership carries OEM 5W-30, BWM lists 4 recommended brands. http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx Castrol Syntec 0W-30 and Mobil 1 0W-40 are the ones I see people posting the most about. What does the hivemind prefer?
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Mar 19, 2013 20:42
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Its the HPFP that would be more of an issue. The 135i will be stupid fun, but if its looked after, I don't see any reason to worry. Cool. I'm probably going to get a 135 later this year.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:02
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Drunken Lullabies posted:I've been off handedly searching for e34 and e39 wagons in manual during my half a year long hunt for an e30 and I've seen several pop up in that time. They aren't totally nonexistent. There is an AWD manual e34 wagon on craigslist in Oregon right now. Well it would be the wife's daily so it needs to be an automatic. Price range is around 6k. We have been looking at Mazda 6 wagons and they seem to be the most stout for the money. But I saw the Top Gear episode where Clarkson drives a e39 wagon across an African desert and all he talked about was how awesome it was. And they just look really good too, the e39 looks perfect to me. Maybe I'd even consider a sedan. Maybe a manual if I could talk the wife into it. So no one answered, how much am I gonna need to replace wear parts if I buy a higher mileage e39? Basically to get it up to par another 100k? I can do most of the work myself.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:44
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