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Method Loser posted:Jesus, I wouldn't have thought those things understeer so badly. An Astro van drivetrain and an awful GM SUV chassis and you expected different?
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Mar 20, 2013 19:09
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Fucknag posted:Have you considered possibly bleeding your clutch? Yessiree, bled it twice and still no dice. Second time didn't even get any air out, all liquid. Bled the brakes too just to make sure it wasn somewhere in the system and I bought a new reservoir cap to make sure no air gets in. 
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Mar 20, 2013 19:51
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General_Failure posted:So that funny plastic thing is a clutch master cylinder? They make them from plastic? I don't like that. The MC on my Focus is all plastic. Already had to replace it once, probably will have to again relatively soon. The car lets you know it's time to replace the master cylinder by dripping brake fluid down the clutch pedal and onto your floor mat.
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Mar 20, 2013 20:21
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Replaced the plugs. The old plugs didn't have a ton of miles on them but last time I did this I didn't know any better and bought those lovely Bosch +4 plugs. I'm not sure if you can tell by the photo (my phone doesn't like to focus anymore. Seems that's what happens when you jump into a lake with it) but the center electrodes are toast. I went with basic NGK coppers this time. In no way did I expect a noticeable power gain from just replacing plugs but welp. 
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Mar 20, 2013 21:04
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cursedshitbox posted:
Holy poo poo, I though the extra 15c a litre here was bad for premium, that's just out and out crazy.
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Mar 20, 2013 21:11
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Puddin posted:Holy poo poo, I though the extra 15c a litre here was bad for premium, that's just out and out crazy. Thats not premium, thats 100 octane race gas which is always significantly more expensive. The premium is only 23c/gal more than 87
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Mar 20, 2013 21:24
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Puddin posted:Holy poo poo, I though the extra 15c a litre here was bad for premium, that's just out and out crazy. 100 AKI = ~108 RON. It's race gas. Not sure why someone would put it in a street car unless it's super high boost or high compression. No amount of timing advance could possibly make use of it otherwise.
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Mar 20, 2013 21:25
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Tusen Takk posted:I bought a new reservoir cap to make sure no air gets in. I don't think you understand how air gets in a hydraylic system.
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Mar 20, 2013 22:03
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DJ Commie posted:An Astro van drivetrain and an awful GM SUV chassis and you expected different? To be fair I'm sure it'll exhibit some amazing snap oversteer in the right situation as well. 
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Mar 21, 2013 01:47
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Sir Cornelius posted:I don't think you understand how air gets in a hydraylic system. It's plausible under certain conditions such as upside-down-ness. Now if you can tell me where the brake fluid in my trailer disappears to at random intervals I'd love to know. It's fine until it's suddenly not. The only trace of brake fluid is around its MC but the cap got hosed so I replaced it recently.
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Mar 21, 2013 01:55
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General_Failure posted:It's plausible under certain conditions such as upside-down-ness. I swear the brake fluid fairies steal fluid from trailer brakes...
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Mar 21, 2013 02:31
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Ferremit posted:I swear the brake fluid fairies steal fluid from trailer brakes... You too, eh?
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Mar 21, 2013 02:52
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 Traded some spare parts for some new wheels.... not sure how I feel about them yet. I definitely need new lug nuts.
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Mar 21, 2013 03:00
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Jealous Cow posted:100 AKI = ~108 RON. It's race gas. You guys missed the build a few months back apparently. 10-25* timing @ idle according to my silly little scangauge thing. 12.5:1 compression. I was initially option for 10.5 to one, but things went sidways. It runs like rear end on 91. I mix 100 in every now and then to not make it run shittilly.
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Mar 21, 2013 04:38
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Geoj posted:The car lets you know it's time to replace the master cylinder by dripping brake fluid down the clutch pedal and onto your floor mat. Yeah, there's nothing that says "you're not going anywhere" quite like clutching in to start the car and hearing a pop and then dribbling over your foot. That was on an SVTF with heavy aftermarket clutch, so maybe it did do the MC in.
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Mar 21, 2013 04:45
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kimbo305 posted:Yeah, there's nothing that says "you're not going anywhere" quite like clutching in to start the car and hearing a pop and then dribbling over your foot. That was on an SVTF with heavy aftermarket clutch, so maybe it did do the MC in. ...or the pedal having no resistance. Found that one out a couple of weeks ago. Wish I could say it worked in my favour but really even the massive discount will only pay for trailer and petrol. I'm reasonably happy though. I've been irked about the whole thing. The rain the last couple of days kind of cemented it for me. After being isolated for weeks last year it'd be nice to have something a bit more capable. From what I've read it outperforms Discos, Hiluxes and apparently the SWB Defenders offroad. So... yay for me assuming I can pull this off in a really busy time of year.
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Mar 21, 2013 04:52
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Lowered my abarth. 
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Mar 21, 2013 05:12
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nerdrum posted:Lowered my abarth. Looks good. I bet that thing handles amazingly.
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Mar 21, 2013 05:14
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General_Failure posted:Looks good. I bet that thing handles amazingly. It's a Fiat. It'll be fun and lively, but never quite amazing according to my Panda ownership experience.
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Mar 21, 2013 09:48
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Finished installing 4 struts+springs and front pads/rotors on the Prizm. Tried and failed to bleed the brakes - and I'm driving 120 miles later today so I took it to a shop to bleed the brakes. Turns out I couldn't bleed them because the front caliper had a busted bleed nipple, which I must have hit at some point during my job, or they broke it. I got 2 new calipers for $80 a pop and I'm just having them do it. So $220 total for 2 new calipers and bleeding the whole system, could be worse I guess but I really need to stop finishing car work right before I need to go somewhere  gently caress.
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Mar 22, 2013 16:44
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cursedshitbox posted:You guys missed the build a few months back apparently. Are you able to switch to E85? People on the IRL forums have been converting over using 85# injectors and a tune, and I guess E85 is basically 105 octane fuel. Now that I think about it though, I think you can only convert if you're boosted.
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Mar 22, 2013 19:04
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My drivers side door lock started to not lock properly and generally feel broken. The passenger side worked fine, so I attempted to rebuild my door lock. Turns out, the lock was fine. I cleaned and lubricated it and reinstalled. Door locks functioning normally.  The next task was the valve cover gasket.  Cam gears are sharp. Everything looked pretty good otherwise.  Painted.  Looks like someone actually cares! 
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Mar 22, 2013 21:26
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Tusen Takk posted:Now that I think about it though, I think you can only convert if you're boosted. You thought about that long and hard I'm sure. What does being boosted have to do with running E85? There are plenty of NA cars that run E85. Flex fuel, anyone? It's not really going to give much of a gain unless you're boosted or running high compression like the guy above though. I would say think before you post but that obviously doesn't do much. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 22:47
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Larrymer posted:You thought about that long and hard I'm sure. What does being boosted have to do with running E85? There are plenty of NA cars that run E85. Flex fuel, anyone? It's not really going to give much of a gain unless you're boosted or running high compression like the guy above though. To make E85 the equivalent of 105oct the engine having to be under high compression is what I was talking about. I didn't know if unboosted high compression was enough to work. Hence the uncertainty.
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Mar 23, 2013 04:26
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KozmoNaut posted:It's a Fiat. It'll be fun and lively, but never quite amazing according to my Panda ownership experience. It depends entirely what you're doing. Liftoff oversteer in a turn in this car is almost immediate, super easy to control and it never tends to dig in and pig understeer like any other FWD car I've owned, and as a 10+ year honda enthusiast -- I've dealt with it.
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Mar 23, 2013 04:55
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Finally got around to popping the dent out of the bumper. Looks fairly good but the whole bumper still needs a respray.
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Mar 23, 2013 05:01
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Tusen Takk posted:a new clutch master cylinder since it flops up and down for half an inch before beginning to work on the hydraulics. It also sounds like a spritz bottle pump when you press it. My last day of doing delivery, someone pulled out in front of me... and stopped. On a major road.  I panic braked, and also nailed the clutch at the same time. Heard/felt a POP from the clutch pedal, ever since then the pedal has been a bit floppy. And hard to get into 1st while stopped.  Guess I'll be changing the master soon!
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Mar 23, 2013 05:43
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Tusen Takk posted:To make E85 the equivalent of 105oct the engine having to be under high compression is what I was talking about. I didn't know if unboosted high compression was enough to work. Hence the uncertainty. Octane rating has fuckall to do with compression ratio. It's a measure of a fuel's resistance to preignition/knocking, under any given heat/pressure scenario, compared to 100% pure isooctane. You have to re-tune the engine to run on E85, since it has a different stoichiometric ratio than gasoline (~9:1 AFR vs. 14.7:1) so requires more fuel for a given amount of air, which usually means either increasing the injector duty cycle or swapping for higher-flow ones. All the octane rating means is that E85 is 5% more knock-resistant than pure octane fuel. Boosted vs. N/A has nothing to do with it. E: Most modern cars, and all the ones marked as Flex Fuel, are usually capable of burning E85 unmodified.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:54
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Pumped up some tyres, put the tarp on the trailer and hitched it. Ready to get rid of green waste and farious crap from the shed tomorrow. Woo  Also chucked in a couple of the ratcheting tiedowns, load distribution bars, chains and brackets. Just in case I can organize to trailer the Niva back in the near future. Also moved the explorer idly flicking it between hi and lo hoping for a change that I know can never happen. I really need to pull that TC so my in-laws can do something about their vehicle.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:56
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Tusen Takk posted:Are you able to switch to E85? People on the IRL forums have been converting over using 85# injectors and a tune... Hahahahaha. Flash a tune? yeaaaaaah. Not gonna happen. I get self learning adaptives and thats about it. The brits like their black box of computers. If I wanted flashability I would have bought a Gm/Honda.
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Mar 23, 2013 07:47
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Not my car, but mom's Avalon. She called me panicking yesterday because the CEL popped on.  When'd you last get gas? About 10 minutes ago I bet you didn't tighten the gas cap all the way NO I TIGHTENED IT UNTIL IT CLICKED PLENTY, OH GOD I HOPE IT'S NOT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER OR THE ENGINE I CAN'T AFFORD TO REPLACE THE CAR Fine, I'll check it tomorrow, it's fine to drive as long as it's not blinking P0442 - small evap leak. Checked the gas cap, it wasn't tight at all.. Told her this, she's still freaking out thinking she's looking at an expensive repair and "WHY DO I KEEP DUMPING MONEY INTO THIS OLD CAR" (2003 Toyota with 125k, never broken down, needed exactly two repairs since she bought it in 2002, not counting a few batteries) then launches into a tirade about how expensive my regular mechanic is (he's a full $50/hr cheaper than the dealer, and unlike the dealer, nails it the first time every time... and doesn't push $2000 timing belt jobs a full 40k before it's needed; instead he suggests a $500-600 timing belt job every 100k).tl;dr: reset a CEL for my mid-60s mother who can't be bothered to tighten the gas cap. If it comes back I'll toss a new gas cap at it, if it comes back after that I'll start chasing down evap gremlins. e: I need to get around to doing the motor mounts on it eventually, it's started to vibrate a bit while in drive/not moving. The cold idle has also shot up to an alarming ~2000 rpm even on a warm day, so I'll probably have to tackle the FITV (or whatever Toyota uses on the 1MZ-FE) pretty soon. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 07:48
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Old IH trucks have left handed thread lugs on the drivers side. Took a while to figure that one out.
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Mar 23, 2013 22:08
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Took a stab at removing the hard water stains from my windows with some RainX deep clean. It got me basically no where on the hard water but the rest of the windows look great. Next is some mentholated spirits to see if that budges the spots.
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Mar 24, 2013 00:18
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tobu posted:Took a stab at removing the hard water stains from my windows with some RainX deep clean. Are they hard water stains, or acid rain? Acid rain etches surfaces and there is no remedy for that.
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Mar 24, 2013 00:27
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Are they hard water stains, or acid rain? Acid rain etches surfaces and there is no remedy for that. I'm not sure - hard rain I thought but now I'm not sure. Looking closely it maybe acid rain etching. I do live less than a kilometer from a very busy coal and sugar port?
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Mar 24, 2013 00:37
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Got a new wheel cylinder and rubber hose on the 56 today. I got the other side apart and stopped for the day. I did finish up rebuilding the master cylinder the other day though. Sandblasted and painted with new internals.   
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Mar 24, 2013 01:58
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Finished restoring the 250c rear bumper, while the chrome was fine, the bumper support was very rusty and the backside of the bumper itself was rusting along the seam. I started with the bracketry, also included the exhaust hanger bits as they're somewhat visible and look bad.  Here's the inside of the bumper now. Normally the bumper support would be black and the inside of the bumper itself would be white, but I only had black and it's not visible ever.  Kinda gives an idea of what it looks like. Except it's upside-down in this pic so whatever.  The black is POR-15. I just bought one of the starter packs they've got. It's amazing how far that little tub of paint will go. I had so much left over I decided to coat my rusty old stool.  Now everything is drying and I'm looking at my next project. Winter wasn't kind to the 240d. I probably have a dozen little rust spots like these. 
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Mar 24, 2013 05:05
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Went to the junkyard to steal a park brake assembly off of a Sonoma to replace the broken one in my S10. Unfortunately when I got back home and pulled the broken one I realized that although they look pretty much exactly the same, the way the brake cable sits in them is different enough that the new one isn't compatible. I drove my now park brake-less truck back to the yard just in time for them to close and was forced to return home defeated.
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Mar 24, 2013 06:34
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General_Failure posted:It's plausible under certain conditions such as upside-down-ness. Yeah, sure, but even my best semi-Australian friends have never experienced upside-downness brake-problems. I guess what I'd really like to have explained is the whole thought process that goes between "My brakes feels kind of wonky" to "I loving need to replace my reservoir cap". As I understand it, the forum-celebrity known as "Tusen Takk" (should actually be "Tusinde tak", unless you live in the more challenged parts of Scandinavia) recently relocated from down under, but I don't think he really imported that lovely Saturn. If so, he should have told the shipping company to rotate it when they crossed the median to avoid such reservoir cap problems. Besides that, I agree that Sir Isaac Newton is to blame for all air-contaminated-fluids-brake-cap-upside downness-problems. To answer your question: Your trailer brake fluid disappears because your actuator/cylinder-assembly is leaking. Been there. They leek inside the frame and just refuse to drip while parked. Well, that or Newton, that bastard. Do you always remember to haul your trailer wheels down? Be honest here if you really want help. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Mar 24, 2013 |
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Mar 24, 2013 07:38
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The plumbing is all external. I even had a really good look before and after taking it for a rubbish run. Weird thing is the reservoir was over full when I checked everything a few hours after getting back. Over full to the point some escaped from the cap. I just don't get that stupid trailer. e: Tussen Takk = Norwegian. Tusinde Tak = Danish.
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Mar 24, 2013 07:43
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