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revmoo posted:That motor looks very clean. The valve cover is not the original, I think. Further down it's covered with a nice layer of black gunk that I'm scraping off as I go. Enormous Flyin' Miata order number 1 is due in tomorrow. I should have a busy weekend of turbo clocking, manifold installing, and sump drilling. Gulp. Anybody want to buy my intake? It's a Racing Beat. Fits 94-97. I might be keeping the filter, I might not. Depends on what I end up doing. I may run the intake up through the firewall and put the filter at the base of the windshield, and I'm not sure the K&N from the Racing Beat will quite fit in that trough there.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:21
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leica posted:I've been having a hard time with first gear, really gotta ease into it, and sometimes it's almost impossible to get into first while rolling at a slow pace. I changed the gear oil and put in some full syn Motorcraft but it didn't help the first gear issue at all. Is this a sign of the master/slave going or is it the syncros? Maybe I need to bleed the clutch? Mine does this too, I just did a new clutch and bled it well, still does it. Think the syncos are just worn. Doing timing belt and water pump (hey I'm already there and it's got 135000 on it) on it this weekend, anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there? Speaking of which, never have posted anything on the clutch, it was amusing. Thought it was just the slave, swapped it and the soft line, couldn't get it to disengage still. Broke down and did the clutch.  A little worn, but could be worse.  It still has rivets, don't see what the deal is here....  Oh. Poisonlizard fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 03:33
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Spacious interior: Link
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Mar 22, 2013 05:13
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leica posted:Well when I'm sitting still or coming out of reverse that doesn't help much Used transmissions are about $200 and it takes half a day to swap one. It's not that big of a deal really.
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Mar 22, 2013 11:54
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iv46vi posted:Spacious interior: That would be ridiculous to drive.
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Mar 22, 2013 14:06
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Larrymer posted:Used transmissions are about $200 and it takes half a day to swap one. It's not that big of a deal really. Used tranny with syncros that may/may not be worn out? Honestly I'd rather learn how to rebuild one and start fresh.
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Mar 22, 2013 17:01
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leica posted:Well when I'm sitting still or coming out of reverse that doesn't help much Try putting it into another gear first. And most likely that's $200 only if you're in an area where Miatas are relatively popular. Rev matching seems to do it for first gear, but second can be almost impossible to engage when the tranny's cold so I've been looking into this unfortunately.
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Mar 22, 2013 18:28
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Where aren't miatas popular? I found a used tranny on CL easily when I blew mine that was just fine. I just searched one out on CL in Detroit and found one for $250, and this isn't exactly convertible country. These cars aren't rare and nothing for them is really expensive, especially the engines and transmissions. That's why I'd suggest just buying another one instead of spending a ton of time on it. If you want to rebuild to learn there's nothing wrong with that. I'd just rather have it done in a day or two and get back in the driver's seat.
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Mar 22, 2013 22:56
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Larrymer posted:Where aren't miatas popular? I found a used tranny on CL easily when I blew mine that was just fine. I just searched one out on CL in Detroit and found one for $250, and this isn't exactly convertible country. These cars aren't rare and nothing for them is really expensive, especially the engines and transmissions. That's why I'd suggest just buying another one instead of spending a ton of time on it. If you want to rebuild to learn there's nothing wrong with that. I'd just rather have it done in a day or two and get back in the driver's seat. Yeah they are pretty cheap hear as well (Columbia SC). I found one with an engine that was in the middle of a rebuild but came with all parts (local SCCAer so probably legit) and it was listed at $350 if I remember correctly.
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Mar 22, 2013 23:14
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mobby_6kl posted:Try putting it into another gear first. Are you being sarcastic? Because that is pretty much common sense. Larrymer posted:If you want to rebuild to learn there's nothing wrong with that. I'd just rather have it done in a day or two and get back in the driver's seat. Yeah I'd do it out of curiosity and being able to start over with fresh syncros. I could go awhile without the car so no biggie, learning how to rebuild a manual trans would be pretty cool, can't be that difficult right? Unlike the magic you need to know for rebuilding automatics.
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Mar 23, 2013 01:16
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leica posted:I've been having a hard time with first gear, really gotta ease into it, and sometimes it's almost impossible to get into first while rolling at a slow pace. I changed the gear oil and put in some full syn Motorcraft but it didn't help the first gear issue at all. Is this a sign of the master/slave going or is it the syncros? Maybe I need to bleed the clutch? Push harder. EDIT: And don't wait in between gears before attempting to select first. The longer you wait in neutral with the clutch in, the slower the input shaft gets, and the stiffer the gear selecter will be. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 01:29
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Well obviously the first reaction is to push harder, but I don't want to make it worse than it already is. And I don't always wait between gears but poo poo happens sometimes, and I noticed it was more difficult than normal. I can deal with it just fine, I just wanted to know what's causing it. Was kinda hoping it was a slave/master issue because that's an easy fix but oh well I'll deal with it when/if it gets worse.
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Mar 23, 2013 01:42
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leica posted:Well obviously the first reaction is to push harder, but I don't want to make it worse than it already is. And I don't always wait between gears but poo poo happens sometimes, and I noticed it was more difficult than normal. How new are the bushings on the shifter? Like the little cup on the end of it? Might help a small amount to refresh them.
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Mar 23, 2013 02:40
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The way syncronizors (the things keeping you out of first, and keeping gear changes clash free) work is by friction. Pressing harder causes them to work faster at spinning things up for a proper gear change. You won't know if they are working or not unless you push. If you push and there is a bad clash/grind, then you know to go easy on them/avoid first gear. I used to be afraid of first gear while rolling. Then I started pushing harder. Thicker/thinner oil can have an effect on syncro stiffness. But I've always found them somewhat in my car. I quite like that though, it allows me to really feel what's going on down there.
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Mar 23, 2013 02:44
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Larrymer posted:How new are the bushings on the shifter? Like the little cup on the end of it? Might help a small amount to refresh them. I just changed the turret oil and they looked fine, almost new actually. Was kinda surprised because I fully expected the rubber boots to be shot and they were both like new also. Ziploc posted:You won't know if they are working or not unless you push. If you push and there is a bad clash/grind, then you know to go easy on them/avoid first gear. I have tried a couple of times and I did feel a bad "clash" that just didn't feel right so I have been taking it easy as a result. Keep in mind I just came from another Miata recently and although was a shitpile, the gearbox was fine going into first rolling or not. First gear on this one felt off right from the start. I was hoping the fluid change would fix it but no dice.
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Mar 23, 2013 03:14
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I mean, the clutch slave is a known failure point on these cars and it's like $20 and a couple hours to replace. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but to see if it's shot or not, get up under there and pull back the boot on the clutch slave, it if is wet on the shaft, congratulations you need a new one. When both of my clutch slaves went, it felt very "slow" to put the car in gear, like I had to push the clutch to the floor, then wait a second or pump the clutch to get it in gear. It wasn't just in 1st gear, it was all, even reverse. It was better at speed though, only really had trouble at lower road speed/a standstill.
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Mar 23, 2013 05:47
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Is now the worst time to buy Miatas? After driving my current 92 for six months I have a better idea of what to look for. Something like cloth interior instead of tan, 1.8, manual windows and non black paint. Currently market prices around here for most Miatas are five grand and up, which seems kind of overpriced for 15-20 years old cars.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:51
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iv46vi posted:Is now the worst time to buy Miatas? I was looking on the LA section of craigslist today and found the same.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:56
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As with most convertibles, the end of fall is generally the cheapest and beginning of spring is generally the most expensive. Got my most recent '94 with 110K for 700$ at the end of November.
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Mar 23, 2013 07:11
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Wow, the absolute cheapest I've seen around here was 850 for a 90 with destroyed paint and 200k miles.
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Mar 23, 2013 07:19
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The best thing about buying one in the winter is you have 4 months to fix anything before you start using it. This one never had a timing belt done so I think it pushed the price down a lot because everyone was scared of doing it or getting it done.
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Mar 23, 2013 07:25
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Ok I've run out of ideas on the cluster in my 91 Miata...have removed the dash 4 times, checked wiring diagrams and checked my fuses. What am I missing? Works:
Doesn't work:
Anyone have a spare NA cluster they would be willing to ship for testing? I'll buy the dash, if that fixes it I keep it if not I send it back and you keep $20 or something. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 23:29
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craig588 posted:The best thing about buying one in the winter is you have 4 months to fix anything before you start using it. This one never had a timing belt done so I think it pushed the price down a lot because everyone was scared of doing it or getting it done. Heh, Miatas are probably the easiest timing belt job ever. You lucked out on that one.
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Mar 23, 2013 23:51
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That's sort of neat, an original promo vehicle from 1990 on eBay http://bit.ly/15FzpYY But 34 grand for a salvage title is what, 300% appreciation.
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Mar 24, 2013 01:41
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It might be worth that if, you know, the original paint which is so valuable was still on the car. I don't see how it's still original and really worth anything after being totaled and re painted.
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Mar 24, 2013 02:37
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Wonder if you can insure that car for that replacement value. Aren't salvage title cars incredible easy to write off in pretty much any accident.
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Mar 24, 2013 03:42
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Did all the fluids on my NC today! I changed out the engine oil to Mobil 1 full synthetic with a Mobile 1 Extended Life filter, which Mobile 1 says is good for 15k miles with that combo...I'd push it to 7,500 MAX if I had to I don't know if I'd trust it to go over 10k really. I then put the ~magical~ $21.31/qt (gently caress me) FoMoCraft 75W-90 synthetic in the transmission and after careful consideration decided to go with the Lucas Oil 75W-90 synthetic in the differential. Definitely runs a lot smoother now. X-Post for pics - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3145227&perpage=40&pagenumber=176#post413829558
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Mar 27, 2013 09:31
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leica posted:I've been having a hard time with first gear, really gotta ease into it, and sometimes it's almost impossible to get into first while rolling at a slow pace. I changed the gear oil and put in some full syn Motorcraft but it didn't help the first gear issue at all. Is this a sign of the master/slave going or is it the syncros? Maybe I need to bleed the clutch? Rev match when you're rolling. If it's just 5mph, give it a tiny little blip. When you're standing still, try going into 2nd before going into 1st. Also, if it's being difficult, let the clutch out a little so you apply a small amount of friction, put it back in, and try again. OR! dubbaclutch that ish like Vin Diesel.
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Mar 27, 2013 21:05
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So I started tearing into the miata for a timing belt and motor mounts. And there are no timing marks on the crank pulley. Not sure how I'm getting to tdc, but thought i'd go ahead and get the cams lined up while I spun the crank looking for a mark. Exhaust just about in place.  How does the intake look....  That can't be right. They both say E, and don't line up. So, research time apparently. There are no marks left on the crank, and I don't see a notch or anything that would indicate a timing mark. I'm pretty sure a 91 should have an notch, but I've yet to find it. As for the cams, hell if I know. Are the parts the same except for the mark? Edit: Also, my crank has 8 slots, that means it's a large nose right?
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Mar 31, 2013 03:01
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Use a cam locker, problem solved. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36880-Dual-Overhead-Lock/dp/B0002SQZPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364696301&sr=8-1&keywords=camshaft+locker
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Mar 31, 2013 03:20
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leica posted:Use a cam locker, problem solved. I like this cheaper method 
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Mar 31, 2013 03:55
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opengl128 posted:I like this cheaper method This was the plan. But now I'm not sure they are lined up to begin with.
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Mar 31, 2013 04:31
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It's expensive but I intend to buy one of these before I do my timing belt this summer. The fact that it's also a bottle opener is a bonus.  Edit: Both sprockets should have both an E and an I. The exhaust cam needs to have the E pointing up and the I pointed at the alignment mark on the cam cover. The intake cam needs to have the I point up and the E point at the timing mark. Yours looks fine, just looks like you need to turn it over a bit more. Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Mar 31, 2013 |
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Mar 31, 2013 04:34
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Previa_fun posted:It's expensive but I intend to buy one of these before I do my timing belt this summer. The fact that it's also a bottle opener is a bonus. There ya go, cheaper and a bottle opener. Cam lockers are a great tool to have, mine paid for itself the first two times I used it.
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Mar 31, 2013 05:59
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opengl128 posted:I like this cheaper method I wish I knew about this trick when I was doing the timing belt on my SO's Jeep 
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Mar 31, 2013 06:07
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Previa_fun posted:It's expensive but I intend to buy one of these before I do my timing belt this summer. The fact that it's also a bottle opener is a bonus. Yea, after I replied to opengl128, I realized I could see the I in the picture. Went back out to the garage, couldn't see it. So I scrubbed the gear down until I could. Yay, now I just have to find/make a tdc mark on the crank. Also, the gear tool looks awesome.
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Mar 31, 2013 06:09
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Poisonlizard posted:Yea, after I replied to opengl128, I realized I could see the I in the picture. Went back out to the garage, couldn't see it. So I scrubbed the gear down until I could. Yay, now I just have to find/make a tdc mark on the crank. I think there should be a notch at the back of the crank sprocket. If the top end is all lined up, though, you should be at TDC seeing as the crank turns twice for every cam rotation, right? (assuming you haven't jumped any teeth...)
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Mar 31, 2013 06:48
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Yea I lined up the cams today (kinda), but still cant find a mark on the crank. Guess I'll just be painting one on. The old timing belt looks brand new, and a couple of the timing cover bolts did too. But I have no idea when it was done last, so I'm going to go ahead and do it and the water pump. Looks like the intake cam is one tooth off, which would explain my lack of power. I thought someone had just set the timing at tdc, as that's about what it feels like.
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Mar 31, 2013 23:18
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Oh hey while we're on timing belt chat are there any differences in the procedure for VVT motors that I should know about?
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Mar 31, 2013 23:27
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What's the big deal about MSM seats? And was there more than one trim level on the MSM like there is on the MS6?
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Mar 31, 2013 23:29
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