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I would recommend moca over that except for the part where there is dodgy coax wiring...
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Mar 25, 2013 03:26
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Posting from a friends ihone. My roomie mopped the floor and may have touched the router with it. The internet reads 5 green bars and excellent strength. Yet the old password no longer seems to work. Did the pw get reset or something?
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Mar 25, 2013 15:31
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diehlr posted:More and more retail outlets are carrying the powerline extenders. I think it truly is your best bet. Try and find a local place with a decent return policy and give it a whirl. The 200 and 500 mbps units have almost always worked for me and I've deployed dozens of pairs over the past few months. I have had nothing but bad experiences with powerline hardware personally. Then again, I haven't tried installing them in a house, only in businesses.
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Mar 26, 2013 00:04
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I'm dumping AT&T's DSL here in awhile and moving to cable. I have two choices: 1. Get a gateway (modem+router) 2. Get a modem (probably a Motorola surfboard) and then add an external router I used to be deadset on option 1, but I'm leaning much more towards option 2. What do you guys think? Also, are WPS pin (aka "Reaver") attacks still a thing, or have all the router manufacturers fixed that vulnerability by now? Very few people seem to know about it. I'd love to get a wireless router that simply doesn't have WPS, period.
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Mar 26, 2013 01:18
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Does anyone have any detail on how the powerline network adapters do encryption? Docs just say they "use AES" and some have a one button magic password system. Even the ITU documents I found don't mention anything about it.
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Mar 26, 2013 01:29
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BRB MAKIN BACON posted:Posting from a friends ihone. My roomie mopped the floor and may have touched the router with it. The internet reads 5 green bars and excellent strength. Yet the old password no longer seems to work. Did the pw get reset or something? There's no way to be sure over the internet but if the old password isn't working it could've been reset to default. Often it's admin/admin or admin/password or admin/brand name or something similar. You can often google for the default password of routers.
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Mar 26, 2013 06:33
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Three-Phase posted:I'm dumping AT&T's DSL here in awhile and moving to cable. I have two choices: Always 2. Even the Motorola modem+router combo device is a pos while their modem-only SB6141 is quite excellent. Also remember to get a router that can handle the speed of cable. Some old routers are actually not fast enough to route packets from wan to LAN for high speed cable.
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Mar 26, 2013 06:48
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Yeah, you do not want a combination modem/gateway device. If cost is a concern, it's probably just as cheap to buy a regular cable modem + a low-end router for the time being and you'd be at worst equivalent to the combo device... but then when budget allows, it's cheaper / easier to upgrade to a higher-end router when you don't have to replace the cable modem at the same time.
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Mar 26, 2013 06:52
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Windowlicker posted:I have had nothing but bad experiences with powerline hardware personally. Then again, I haven't tried installing them in a house, only in businesses. Given the issues I was having with that router I picked up a couple of tplink power line adapters yesterday. They work fantastically for me - I've gone from getting 1.5mb/sec downloads from Steam via my ISP provided wireless router to getting more like 4mb/s. It's been consistent as well. I understand it depends on the wiring in your house, although for reference mine must date from the late 70s/early 80s and it's working pretty great.
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Mar 26, 2013 09:10
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My powerline adapter works well for my PS3 as well. Although, anything other than PS3 wireless is probably an improvement.
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Mar 26, 2013 14:23
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slidebite posted:My powerline adapter works well for my PS3 as well. Although, anything other than PS3 wireless is probably an improvement. Yeah this is why I went moca. Wireless could not handle media streaming from my PC despite having a great connection.
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Mar 26, 2013 15:25
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 I think I'm going insane. Wifi stops working when my desktop, which is connected to the router by ethernet, is booting. It literally stops working from the point where BIOS loads to when the Windows logo disappears. Soon as the logo disappears wifi miraculously starts working. I've tested this on android phone, android tablet, a windows 8 laptop and vista laptop. All my wireless devices are set to use fixed ip and there are no conflicts. My router sits underneath a small bench which my desktop monitor sits on top of. I'm guessing it's some kind of interference(?) but why would it only happen during boot?
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Mar 27, 2013 11:27
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Rexxed posted:There's no way to be sure over the internet but if the old password isn't working it could've been reset to default. Often it's admin/admin or admin/password or admin/brand name or something similar. You can often google for the default password of routers. Thanks for the response, we got it fixed.
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Mar 27, 2013 16:11
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Fil5000 posted:Given the issues I was having with that router I picked up a couple of tplink power line adapters yesterday. They work fantastically for me - I've gone from getting 1.5mb/sec downloads from Steam via my ISP provided wireless router to getting more like 4mb/s. It's been consistent as well. I understand it depends on the wiring in your house, although for reference mine must date from the late 70s/early 80s and it's working pretty great. From a business perspective, here is the problem. Powerline hardware is only typically used when structured cabling is not present. Structured cabling, is usually not present when the cabling conduit/pathways don't exist. Cabling conduit/pathways typically don't exist in buildings created before 1980. For whatever reason, construction companies were either too cheap or didn't think far enough ahead to add a decent amount of space for future cabling needs. This leaves surface mounting and costly coring/drilling or access hatch installation as the only possible option (Other than DSL or Mesh, but we won't get into that) What's common about buildings built before 1980? Absolutely terrible electrical systems that aren't suited for data. Basically, the entire powerline model from a large building/business perspective is a horrible idea. In a house, it's probably fine. Personally, I see a house as easy enough to cable I'd probably just install Access Points anyway. I personally don't handle cabling professionally, however I do design it. I did however run an Access Point into my parents tower from the main house. To give you an idea of how tricky that was, this is the house:  Personally I think you'll have a much more robust home network if you stick to an Access Point or Ethernet cabled solution.
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Mar 27, 2013 18:00
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God I hope that tower thing has a spiral staircase.
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Mar 27, 2013 18:05
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Parlett316 posted:God I hope that tower thing has a spiral staircase. Yes, all the way to the top. The kitchen has a black and white checker-board floor too. First Floor - Den Second Floor - Bedroom with Shower/Washroom Third Floor - Full kitchen Fourth Floor - Party room with small bar. I installed a Cisco WAP200 on the ground floor with the antenna's aimed to provide vertical coverage. You get almost full bars at the very top. The WAP200 is cabled to a router in the house via CAT5E that I ran through the basement in the house. Edit: I should mention the inside of this thing is a bunker. Even your cell phone signal will completely vanish. The bricks on the outside are just cosmetic, there's a cement silo behind the brickwork and a full layer of insulation.
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Mar 27, 2013 18:26
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WastedJoker posted:
This is... bizarre. A few test cases: *Can wireless devices talk to each other still during the outage, or do they lose all connectivity whatsoever? *Can other wired devices talk to each other and/or the internet when this happens? *Can wireless devices reach any other wired devices? *Does the same problem happen if the ethernet cord is unplugged from the desktop during boot? The best I can think of is your motherboard's on-board LAN is doing something really really bad until the driver initializes it, and your router reacts to it by basically shutting down. If that's the case, it seems like popping an add-in NIC into your desktop might solve it.
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Mar 27, 2013 18:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I might add: *Are you using a wireless keyboard and mouse? Is it 2.4Ghz? *Do you have any other wireless devices that may be operating in the 2.4Ghz spectrum and causing channel collision? If he has a keyboard/mouse combo or other wireless hardware that's operating on the same channel as the router, it might knock out this wireless on boot.
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Mar 27, 2013 19:31
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DaNzA posted:Always 2. Thanks for the heads-up guys! I did go with option 2. I am on the new cable connection upgrading from an aging DSL system (f-you AT&T!) and HOLY HELL IS IT FAST!!! I went from barely 2 megabits per second to over 2 megaBYTES per second. Amazing new things I've experienced:
Sorry about this, I'm just giddily happy that this worked so far. Did go through the security stuff, WPS pin OFF, guest network OFF, changed default password (WPA2-PSK) and SSID for my network, turned on wireless isolation mode because I'm paranoid as hell, changed default router administrative password, did a scan with Shields Up (I am completely cloaked), and turned of UPnP. Am I missing anything here? One other question - if there are no apparent security vulnerabilities for my router (I checked), how critical is it that I update my router firmware? I'm in this sort of "it's not broken, don't fix it" mode, and I'm not sure if that's bad. One other other question - I have a Motorola SB6180 (modem) and a Netgear router that does have some IPV6 settings page in it, but I have no idea how to configure it. Bottom line - will the SB6180 work with IPV6? I don't want to have to buy a new modem. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 28, 2013 |
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Mar 27, 2013 23:57
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http://support.photosmithapp.com/knowledgebase/articles/114124-what-is-ap-isolation-mode-and-why-should-i-disable ??? Do you like to make it hard to connect to your own devices?
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Mar 28, 2013 23:24
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The whole idea of access point isolation is to provide internet access only without giving access to other devices on the wireless network. A good security measure in the right circumstances.
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Mar 29, 2013 01:58
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Three-Phase posted:Sorry about this, I'm just giddily happy that this worked so far. Did go through the security stuff, WPS pin OFF, guest network OFF, changed default password (WPA2-PSK) and SSID for my network, turned on wireless isolation mode because I'm paranoid as hell, changed default router administrative password, did a scan with Shields Up (I am completely cloaked), and turned of UPnP. Am I missing anything here? You can just disable ipv6 completely on the netgear page and ignore it for now. That modem should work fine with ipv6 though.
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Mar 29, 2013 03:23
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Devian666 posted:The whole idea of access point isolation is to provide internet access only without giving access to other devices on the wireless network. A good security measure in the right circumstances. I'm not sharing resources between computers on my network - if I did, and was doing it through wireless, I'd need to switch that off. It's just an extra, albeit minor, security layer. (I think this is more for people operating hotspots.) My biggest concern was a WPS pin attack/exploit, but in the router there are two boxes: 1. Enable WPS 2. Enable pin lockout (something like this) I just disabled WPS altogether, but if I wanted to use it in the future, there's a feature where if it gets hit with three pin attempts, the router will go into lockdown. So it was designed with countering the Reaver attack vector in mind. I wish there was a way to control (lower) radio transmit power, but overall for $45 I am very happy with my router, the WNR2000 from Netgear. DaNzA posted:Yeah the security settings looks good. And usually the firmware upgrade can improve performance too besides fixing bugs. Cool, thanks DaNzA. Holy crap I was getting 24Mbps on a 18Mbps cable connection! Cable is like the exact opposite of DSL! Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 29, 2013 12:35
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For anyone using the MikroTik RB751 or RB951 wireless routers I've found some settings that seem to help reduce their annoyance factor. Check out the updates here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3388528&goto=lastpost
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Mar 29, 2013 21:30
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I need some help diagnosing a problem with the network. I'm having problems with my Open-Mesh OM2P-HS. My network is like this NetGear Cable Mode -Ethernet- 5' SonicWall TZ200 -Ethernet- 3' -Passive PoE adapter- Supplied with OM2P-HS -Ethernet- 1' -Patch Panel- Tripp Lite GigaBit 12 Port -Ethernet- 40-45' OM2P-HS The OM2P-HS is getting power, but neither the TZ200 or the Modem or detecting the OM2P-HS. Could it be a problem with the POE adapter? I wasn't having this problem before when I first got the OM2P-HS. This setup is only about four weeks old. I can't connect the OM2P-HS directly to the router without the PoE adapter until after closing time. Edit: I plugged the OM2P-HS directly into the SonicWall using the 3' cable. Still no good. [B]Edit 2[b]: Plugging the Ethernet into the 2nd port on the OM2P-HS and its communicating with the SonicWall. 
SlayVus fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 19:08
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I have no idea if this belongs in the Xbox thread, the Haus of Tech Support, or the Mac OS X thread, but gently caress it. I'm using my MBP as a wireless bridge to get my super-old Xbox 360 online. I have internet sharing turned on, and I'm sharing from wireless to ethernet, but my Xbox isn't getting an IP address. Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is that I'm behind a AT&T U-verse residential gateway (combination DSL modem/wireless AP) that isn't letting my Mac assign IP addresses. EDIT: Fucks sake, Boxman, first lesson in any troubleshooting is to isolate the problem. Another laptop pulls an IP address without difficulty. Taking this question to the Xbox thread. Boxman fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Mar 31, 2013 |
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Mar 31, 2013 23:13
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The Xbox has some dumb incompatibility with OS X’s DHCP server. Set the IP manually. e: Even Microsoft put up directions eventually. e2: It’s also possible to change a parameter in OS X’s DHCP server so the Xbox 360 doesn’t get confused. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Mar 31, 2013 23:57
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Question about latency in high rise apartment/condo buildings: Is there anything inherently bad about them as far as latency or upload? I did a speedtest over WiFi using an Iphone 4s app in a condo I was viewing and the ping was 143ms from Chicago to San Francisco.
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Apr 1, 2013 00:20
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Well, I think it's time to retire my trusty WRT54GL since I now have 65mbit down and I'm getting a third of that using G. I read the OP and I'm considering the Airport Express Extreme, any of you guys have one and love it? Hate it? I see it has a USB port but apparently it does have the Amps necessary to power an external? I also see that it only supports HFS, HFS+ and Fat32 which is fine. Basically just want to make sure this is a great thing before I drop 18  edit: I'll be using 2 laptops, phone, tablet, ps3, printer, tv if it matters.
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Apr 1, 2013 01:07
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I moved from an IPv6 tunnel to native IPv6 this weekend. I run a Tomato USB variant and ran into an issue which may either be a bug in the code or may be a problem in the way Comcast hands out routes, but there was a problem with a spurious default route that wouldn't allow traffic to exit my router. The problem is described here: http://www.linksysinfo.org/index.php?threads/ipv6-and-comcast.38006/ ...and a good solution script is here: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r27239063- wide stance posted:Question about latency in high rise apartment/condo buildings:
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Apr 1, 2013 01:56
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Will HDMI-over-cat5 work if you then run that cat5 through a powerline/moca kit on the way back to hdmi?
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Apr 1, 2013 02:11
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gggiiimmmppp posted:Will HDMI-over-cat5 work if you then run that cat5 through a powerline/moca kit on the way back to hdmi? HDMI over CAT5 kits may use the same cabling as Ethernet, but do not use the same signals as Ethernet, so they would not work with an Ethernet bridging kit/device, whichever cabling it uses.
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Apr 1, 2013 02:18
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wide stance posted:Question about latency in high rise apartment/condo buildings: Your wireless is probably being raped by channel collision from other wireless networks. This will cause all sorts of fucky behaviour. A good way to deal with this, is to run some cat5e from one side of your appt to the other. Install a second Access Point or cheap router (DHCP server disabled on the second), and manually configure your 2.4Ghz channels to fall on channels 1, 6 or 11. Don't use the same channel on both devices. As you probably can't find a recommended channel (1,6,11) that isn't being used by neighbouring Access Points, you want to make yourself "The loudest voice in the room". This should improve your service significantly, and force your neighbours Access Points onto non-standard channels. Use inSSIDer to take a look at the other signals that may be interfering with your setup: http://www.metageek.net/support/downloads/
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Apr 1, 2013 13:54
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What's the current hot poo poo DOCCIS 3.0 Surfboard modem? I think I'm tired of paying Comcast $7 for rental on a lovely Thomson modem, and they said I'd need 3.0 to take advantage of the latest speed boost, so sounds like as good a time as any to dive in head first.
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Apr 1, 2013 21:42
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I have two folders shared on a networked computer running Windows 8. When I try to move a file from one folder to another (both of which are on the same HDD), Windows sends the file via the computer I am using, which is incredibly slow and pointless. Is there a way to stop this behaviour?
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Apr 2, 2013 01:24
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HTJ posted:I have two folders shared on a networked computer running Windows 8. When I try to move a file from one folder to another (both of which are on the same HDD), Windows sends the file via the computer I am using, which is incredibly slow and pointless. Is there a way to stop this behaviour? Copy it on the computer that's sharing the folders. edit: a pox on you autocorrect Maneki Neko fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Apr 2, 2013 |
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Apr 2, 2013 03:35
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I'm guessing these two folders are on seperate shares, so the computer accessing the files doesn't know they're on the same drive (because to it, they're not). So to do a move it has to download it to your computer then uploading it again, because it doesn't know any other way.
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Apr 2, 2013 03:53
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If it's too far to walk all the way to the other room or your rascal's batteries are low, look into some remote desktop software.
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Apr 2, 2013 04:06
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In case anyone else upgraded firmware on their Ubiquiti device and noticed that it can no longer bridge with non‐Ubiquiti APs: the secret is to disable aggregation on the advanced tab. Consumer APs don’t support aggregation, but the Ubiquiti device tries to use it anyway. This results in a link that looks good on the web interface but doesn’t pass any packets.
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Apr 2, 2013 08:41
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FISHMANPET posted:What's the current hot poo poo DOCCIS 3.0 Surfboard modem? I think I'm tired of paying Comcast $7 for rental on a lovely Thomson modem, and they said I'd need 3.0 to take advantage of the latest speed boost, so sounds like as good a time as any to dive in head first. Get the SB6141. 8 downstream channels which should give you at least decent speed out of the theoretical maximum of ~300Mbps.
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Apr 2, 2013 08:43
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