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speaking of restoring machinery, i came across this this other day: http://www.shanewhitlock.com/blog/ and i think its rad edit: will you just look at that loving bandsaw
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Mar 23, 2013 22:15
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That man does some amazing work with old rotting machinery. I am quite envious that he manages to score a some of that stuff for under scrapmetal value. I did not comprehend just how huge that bandsaw was until seeing it next to a human.
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Mar 24, 2013 05:52
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I wonder if he sells any of his stuff, or just collects it?
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Mar 24, 2013 11:41
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iForge posted:I still haven't heard back from the machine shop that I requested a quote from for running a surface grinder over the face, but I am thinking that I will probably just use an angle grinder, a straight edge, and some patience to do it myself. A piece of plate steel and layout blue will make this faster and easier. Blue the anvil and then rub the plate steel on it to find the high spots. Grind any spot where the blue rubbed off. Repeat. Alternatively, you can coat the anvil in carbon from a pure acetylene flame instead of using blue. Eventually you'll get something about as flat as the plate steel you started with. It's not micrometer accurate like you get from a metal scraper, but it's probably good enough to pound hot steel on.
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Mar 24, 2013 18:34
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BOOYAH!
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Mar 24, 2013 20:45
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Can anyone speak to welding training and certification in Canada, or in general I suppose? What's worth getting training in, how the system actually works and how much 'havin yer ticket' actually matters, etc- I don't know a whole lot. I've been rolling the idea around in my head for a while. It's either that or Fleming College's semester-long Artist Blacksmithing degree- http://flemingcollege.ca/programs/artist-blacksmith - and as much as I'd prefer to do the latter, it's a whole lot harder to make a living doing. Oxyacetylene is definitely the process I'm most interested in learning, and by far the most useful to me as a small-time metalworker, but I know it's not a skill that's in particularly high demand (I don't think, anyways).
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Mar 25, 2013 23:48
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For those that don't know, that is the headstock for his lathe that is now painted. He is now working on cleaning up the gear assemblies and other parts to get that beast put back together. I bought welding rods today. I got a 10 pound can of 1/8 9018 c3 electrodes. The c3 designates that the rods contain chromium and molybdenum for a stronger steel. The price difference between regular 9018 and c3 9018 was negligible and I figured that there will be no downside to getting them. The 10 pound can cost me $42. Current plan is to weld it up on Saturday. I plan to take a fuckload of pictures because I really can't find where many people have done this kind of repair on the scale that I am doing it, so I hope that my work will benefit others at some point. Edit: I am borrowing a camera to take some video of the project. I don't know how great it will turn out, or if I will even post an edited video, but I will figure that out when I get there. iForge fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 00:02
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Can anyone speak to welding training and certification in Canada, or in general I suppose? What's worth getting training in, how the system actually works and how much 'havin yer ticket' actually matters, etc- I don't know a whole lot. Hardly anyone (e: in the first world) working as a professional welder uses oxyacetylene any more, except for cutting. Any welding you could do with a torch you can do faster and better with a TIG. A ticket is 100% necessary if you're going to do anything structural, like bridges or pipelines. You don't need one to weld up exhaust pipes but you also don't make the big bucks doing that. If you want a ticket, you basically train for it and then go and do the test for certification. They have you demonstrate your skills in a specific technique, position and metal. Your welds will be analyzed with acid or x-ray, so you have to learn to consistently make strong, reliable welds -- no porosity allowed. Besides making a good weld of your own, it's also important that you be able to feather your welds into an existing one for repairs, and continue existing beads with no temporary loss of strength. Changing up what you tested on means you need a new ticket. So you can't go and train in steel with a MIG and then go and start TIG welding nickel alloy turbine blades, for instance. Most of the introductory courses at a community college will teach you SMAW, MIG and some TIG. From there you basically decide where you want to go. If you're aiming to be a professional welder, I'd say focus on the SMAW and TIG. If you're aiming to weld on the side or do quick assembly work here and there go for the MIG. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 04:29
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Sagebrush posted:Hardly anyone (e: in the first world) working as a professional welder uses oxyacetylene any more, except for cutting. Any welding you could do with a torch you can do faster and better with a TIG. What he said, but focus on a structured government administered apprenticeship with a focus on becoming a red seal journeyman. In Alberta you do 10 months of work and 2 months of school for 3 years and you get your journeyman ticket. School was $800 per term for me but that was like almost 10 years ago now holy cow I'm getting old. Also most decent employers will reimburse you for school. What province are you in again?
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Mar 26, 2013 04:55
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I am: BC B-ticket CWB All position SMAW CWB 3 Position FCAW Ambrose Burnside posted:What's worth getting training in, how the system actually works and how much 'havin yer ticket' actually matters, etc- I don't know a whole lot. It varies from province to province, but AFAIK they all work similarly, more so now that the provinces have agreed to greater coordination of their programs. I know little more about this because it doesn't affect me at all currently. It basically breaks down into three categories: Provincial welding tickets, Canadian Welding Bureau tickets, and pressure welding tickets. Provincial welding tickets are basically an official record of welding training and experience. In BC, when you get your first ticket (in BC it's "C level") you get a book with your photo etc that has space for technical colleges to record your training and for employers to record your experience. In BC there is C, B and A level, with A being the highest. When you get your A level ticket you can get an inter-provincial endorsement ticket called "red seal" by taking a comprehensive knowledge test. Having a B-level ticket is what matters. A-level is gravy, C-level is common as dirt. Canadian Welding Bureau tickets are what you need to do structural welding. Is there a professional engineer's stamp on the drawings? If yes, it's structural welding. The tests are supervised by a CWB rep and are run according to CWB specifications. There are four positions: Flat, horizontal, vertical and overhead. There are a bunch of different ways to set the tests up but they all involve welding two plates of steel together, cutting it into strips with the weld in the middle and bending them in half. If more than X length of crack appears, you fail! You have to pass a test for every position and every process. Having an All-Position ticket is what matters because it means however the steel needs to be welded you're qualified. Pressure tickets are for pipe, boilers, pressure vessels etc. I have limited experience with the bodies that govern these certifications, but I can tell you the tests are similar to CWB tests, the difference is they're done on pipe with an open root weld. You have to do these welds and tests as part of the training for a B-ticket in BC. Alberta B-pressure ticket is what matters. It's the most in-demand. What's worth getting trained in: Um, everything. If you've got the skills the training is not the hard part. The hard part is getting experience to upgrade and getting those CWB or pressure tickets the fist time. It's a Catc-22. If you don't have the tickets, you won't be doing the welding, and you won't get the job with which to get the tickets. If you have a job in a welding shop lined up already, go get the training, go to your lined-up job, get the hours, get the upgrades, get the CWB/pipe tickets. You're laughing. If you don't have a job in a welding shop lined up already, you have a tough decision to make because getting training and then trying to convince someone to hire you is "the hard way"; there are thousands of no-exprience c-level welders out there. They are basically disposable and get little pay and no respect. Not that it can't be done, though. I did it the hard way. Ambrose Burnside posted:Oxyacetylene is definitely the process I'm most interested in learning, and by far the most useful to me as a small-time metalworker, but I know it's not a skill that's in particularly high demand (I don't think, anyways). You will never, ever use it in industry. Everything it can do GTAW does better. Brazing yes. Oxy-fuel welding, no. Sagebrush posted:If you're aiming to be a professional welder, I'd say focus on the SMAW and TIG. I'd say SMAW and FCAW. TIG is for stuff that has to be clean and pretty, which is not as common as mild-steel "weld it together, it doesn't matter what catches on fire" type situations. ductonius fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 05:01
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Thanks. I'm in Ontario, for the record. And naw, I don't have anything lined up. I had a bad feeling about the catch-22-apprenticeship thing, I know of a few other fields where it works something like that and welding looked like it'd shape up the same. But yeah, thanks, I'll mull it over.
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Mar 26, 2013 13:12
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The day after I painted the headstock it was still a bit tacky, I figured due to the cold weather. A heat lamp solved that problem very nicely. It brought the headstock up to a nice nice 55-60 degrees F. This morning after baking under the heat lamp overnight the headstock was ready to go. Cleaned up the hardware and all the mating surfaces and here we are. a headstock bolted to a lathe bed. Now, that I have a safe place to put a spindle, I can start cleaning and assembling that.  Thank you iForge for recommending the Marvel's Mystery Oil. This stuff is the metalworker's version of CLP for firearms. It takes rust and crud right off and leaves a nice protective coating. 
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Mar 26, 2013 16:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Thanks. I'm in Ontario, for the record. And naw, I don't have anything lined up. I had a bad feeling about the catch-22-apprenticeship thing, I know of a few other fields where it works something like that and welding looked like it'd shape up the same. Well I can give some advice for a beginning Ontario welder. You can get your fist ticket with self practice. Get a medium quality buzzbox welder, three boxes of rods, a few dozen plates of scrap steel, and weld every night for a month or so. Most welding training shops will let you challenge the test without ever having taken a class there, and will let you rent there shop to work with there equipment (important for an hour or so of familiarization with there equipment). This whole process can then be done at your time, and cost ~$600 (and you'll also have a SMAW welder when your done as well as good skills for your own personal welding projects, so its hardly money wasted). You do need a bit of outside space, and it sucks to weld in the winter, but I believe you have such? It is also about to start getting warm.
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Mar 27, 2013 00:25
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I've already got a genuinely-terrible lovely little buzzbox, you know, with a 15% duty cycle or something embarassing like that. But yeah, I oughta start trolling Craigslist for a big 'ol used tombstone. e: Although I do have concerns about developing bad habits by self-teaching. I've taught myself pretty much everything I've ever done, and have picked up some seriously bad habits along the way. Not really related, but I've realized that when I'm doing chasing and repousse on sheet metal, my technique has actually deteriorated from when I started out, and it's not just because I'm working faster now. I don't hold the liners properly, I forget how to do curved lining with no tear-out every single time I have to use it on a project, etc Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Mar 27, 2013 |
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Mar 27, 2013 02:11
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Not sure if you have the terminology wrong, but you don't want a "tombstone" aka Lincoln AC 225. That is a tapped transformer which means you can't make fine adjustments and it still has low duty cycle. What you do want is either a Lincoln Idealarc or Miller Dialarc. Those are awesome machines, and is as much stick welder as you will ever need. My Idealarc can burn 1/8" rods @ 100% duty cycle and not think twice about it. Both the Idealarc and Dialarc have continuously adjustable controls. You should be able to snag one used for $300-$500. While you do not necessarily need a structured class, you do need someone who can watch you weld and tell you what you are doing wrong. The internet can help to some extent, but it's not like having someone look over your shoulder. Edit: So I go to Advanced Auto today ... me: "Good evening, I need a serpentine belt" parts guy: "Sure, sir, what year/make/model?" me: "It's for a 1945 South Bend 13" metal lathe" parts guy: "Huh?" me: "This might be easier if you show me where you keep your serpentine belts" The serpentine belt will get cut in half, scarf joints ground into it, then glued back together. This is for the flat belt that goes from the countershaft to spindle. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Mar 27, 2013 |
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Mar 27, 2013 02:23
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Not sure if you have the terminology wrong, but you don't want a "tombstone" aka Lincoln AC 225. That is a tapped transformer which means you can't make fine adjustments and it still has low duty cycle. Wouldn't sourcing a V belt from the get go be the better way to go then cutting and grinding and glueing a serpentine belt? They make some pretty tough ones with kevlar polymer and steel cores for motorcycles that can be quite long.
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Mar 27, 2013 02:38
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This is a flat belt, not a V belt. The original would have been leather. People on the internet have been have great success using serpentine belts for this purpose, they grip very nicely. Also, the belt has to be threaded thru the headstock, so it must be cut. It's impossible to get a continuous belt in there.
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Mar 27, 2013 02:40
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Not sure if you have the terminology wrong, but you don't want a "tombstone" aka Lincoln AC 225. That is a tapped transformer which means you can't make fine adjustments and it still has low duty cycle. Tombstones are pretty awesome little welders despite being tapped, but I bought an Idealarc for $200 a couple years ago, spent a lot of time with my brother doing research and replacing the diodes and it's absolutely the best SMAW arc out there. It's a perfect welder.  I'd love to go over it someday and actually clean the poor thing out, probably replace the brushes in the fan motor, but it still runs beautifully. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Mar 27, 2013 |
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Mar 27, 2013 02:44
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Not sure if you have the terminology wrong, but you don't want a "tombstone" aka Lincoln AC 225. That is a tapped transformer which means you can't make fine adjustments and it still has low duty cycle. Oh, naw, I just had it it my mind as a vaguely middle-of-the-road stick welder. Shows what I know.
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Mar 27, 2013 02:48
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Hypnolobster, I'm curious to know more about the diodes you got, part numbers, where you purchased them, price, etc. Also, what model is that Miller?
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Mar 27, 2013 02:56
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drat, is the front rusted through or is that just missing paint? 
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Mar 27, 2013 04:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Can anyone speak to welding training and certification in Canada, or in general I suppose? What's worth getting training in, how the system actually works and how much 'havin yer ticket' actually matters, etc- I don't know a whole lot. Look in to metal fabrication. You'll be working the same shop environment as a welder, but steel fab tends to be a more stable job in my experience. A lot of companies treat welders as expendable, something to be brought on when the job demands it, and let go when it doesn't. Fabricators are going to be needed throughout a job, and employers are going to hang on to good ones like gold. There are no tickets, and while there are pre-apprentice programs, they're usually not required (I cant speak for Ontario, but I would be surprised). If you can run shop tools like brakes and drill presses and shears, and can read prints, you should be fine.
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Mar 27, 2013 04:25
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Edit: So I go to Advanced Auto today ... This happened to me when I went to AutoZone and asked if they had a socket for an H4 headlamp bulb. The guy wordlessly punched in "HUMMER" and then informed me that no, they didn't carry anything like that. 
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Mar 27, 2013 04:28
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As far as the pro welding things goes Ambrose Burnside, I've been there done that. Started out my career after high school as an IT guy, was unemployed from 2007-2008 and could not find a job no matter how hard I tried. That's when I went to welding school. Long story short the two unions I applied for I couldn't get in, and the rest of the stuff I found were lovely jobs. The guys who already have their many years experience don't quite have the same issue I did. It just so happens in 2008 the economy took a dump for a number of reasons I won't elaborate, but there hasn't been a whole lot of capital outlay that requires any meaningful construction requiring good welding. There is still some stuff related to the petroleum and natural gas industry going, and if you are interested in moving, or happen to live in an area where it is happening, then go for it. Otherwise, it'll be a difficult living. Personally, I'm at the point I'm not presently interested in any type of metalworking professionally. I make a drat good amount of money doing IT right now, thankfully, and am in a mode where my goal is to build up tooling and skills. I may perhaps engage in the occasional sale of products here or there, but I will always be spending more money in tooling and materials. One day if I have enough capabilities and customers knocking on my door that it's viable to leave the IT world, then it may very well happen. Point is, metalworking for me is now on MY terms, not my employers. I get to control both the content of what happens in my shop, the tooling, and most importantly, the safety. With all that being said... Lathe update: (I'm not opening another thread for this, so this is all getting posted here) iForge, (he's probably laughing manically as he reads this) really got me thinking. I won't post the entire content of our conversations, but suffice it to say I'm changing my approach to this lathe from what I originally stated a few days ago. 1. This thing really needs two coats of paint. 2. This paint (very good paint) just is too light of a color for what I want. I was really looking for the original battleship grey. 3. There are certain parts that are rather involved in disassembly that I haven't painted yet. Namely, the carriage, apron, and gearbox. I've already done the headstock, bed, pedestal, and legs. If I do the carriage, apron, and gearbox, all the hard work is done, and literally everything not mentioned is easy peasy bolt off bolt on. Since I have to take apart the carriage, apron, gearbox for cleaning, lubrication felt replacement, I will just send them to off the same place I had the headstock sandblasted and paint them. It won't take that much time. So having said that, I didn't want to waste the paint I already had, and the color I wanted is simply not on the shelf. I had just bought a quart of the Valspar (Tractor Supply brand) "Light ford grey". I decided to add Rust Oleum Black (very similar chemistry as far as I can tell) to it to make it grey. I added a little bit at a time, but ended up needing the entire half-pint to get what I wanted. One thing I know about mixing paint or epoxy is always pour from your mix container into another container. The act of pouring condenses the liquids into a thin stream which helps to further mix it. Also you don't have the residue from the sides of the container contaminating the good stuff. So I picked up a new clean metal quart paint can. I am drat glad I decided to pickup a drill attachment for stirring paint. Getting an even color would have been impossible otherwise. I filled up one of the new quart cans with my beautiful battleship grey paint and poured the rest into a cat food tin and got to work on the headstock and lathe bed. I ran out of time and energy so I'll have to finish the pedestal and leg tomorrow. The flash on the camera and glossiness of the paint make it seem a little lighter shade then it really is. The picture of the bed gives you a better idea the the headstock pic, but they look the same.    Edit: yeah, you can see some of the old paint on the ways that I never removed. Nothing actually touches that portion. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Mar 27, 2013 |
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Mar 27, 2013 07:02
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Meat Recital posted:Look in to metal fabrication. You'll be working the same shop environment as a welder, but steel fab tends to be a more stable job in my experience. A lot of companies treat welders as expendable, something to be brought on when the job demands it, and let go when it doesn't. Fabricators are going to be needed throughout a job, and employers are going to hang on to good ones like gold. There are no tickets, and while there are pre-apprentice programs, they're usually not required (I cant speak for Ontario, but I would be surprised). If you can run shop tools like brakes and drill presses and shears, and can read prints, you should be fine. That's, a good idea?? I've already got a lot more experience/comfort with that sort of thing as it stands... can't read blueprints worth a drat, though. Like, yeah, I don't have any particular attachment to welding as a CAREER, it's just a skill I'm going to pick up for personal use regardless, and I don't really have any other serious work interests or skills beyond "metalworking", whatever the hell that means in particular. I just don't particularly want to launch myself into white-collar work I hate with a degree in political science/history and a godawful GPA, you know?
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Mar 27, 2013 16:16
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Man, this thing is drat sexy with the battleship grey... I think I have a hard on. Edit: For posterity, I dug up the old lathe thread from the Archives. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Mar 27, 2013 |
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Mar 27, 2013 16:36
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's, a good idea?? I've already got a lot more experience/comfort with that sort of thing as it stands... can't read blueprints worth a drat, though. Welding and fabrication go hand in hand, so while what he said is more true than not, almost all fabricators are also welders (unless they're sheet metal workers, but that's pretty much Oz to me). I'm a ticketed welder, but what I do all day is build things out of metal, which is fabrication. At minimum a fabricator will be expected to tack weld pieces together for a dedicated welder to work on later. I've heard of this setup being the case at some places, but I've never seen it myself. Ambrose Burnside posted:I just don't particularly want to launch myself into white-collar work I hate with a degree in political science/history and a godawful GPA, you know? One thing that could work in your favor is if you have external means of support. Could you live through a couple of years of unstable employment, because if you can then I'd say go for welding. You're going to have sketchy employment at first but one day you'll hit a magic threshold and you'll be "in". It's riding out the first rough patch that's hard. ductonius fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Mar 28, 2013 |
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Mar 28, 2013 01:01
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ductonius posted:Welding and fabrication go hand in hand, so while what he said is more true than not, almost all fabricators are also welders (unless they're sheet metal workers, but that's pretty much Oz to me). I'm a ticketed welder, but what I do all day is build things out of metal, which is fabrication. At minimum a fabricator will be expected to tack weld pieces together for a dedicated welder to work on later. I've heard of this setup being the case at some places, but I've never seen it myself. I used to do a much larger amount of fabrication in my early days of my career but now since I've gotten so so many tickets it's more like that I get people to fit stuff up for me while I relax and then show up and just do the critical welding work. I'm getting fat and they pay me more for it, it's awesome. ductonius posted:One thing that could work in your favor is if you have external means of support. Could you live through a couple of years of unstable employment, because if you can then I'd say go for welding. You're going to have sketchy employment at first but one day you'll hit a magic threshold and you'll be "in". It's riding out the first rough patch that's hard. This is really a better explaination of how it will be than the catch 22 of no experience to get tickets to get jobs. It just takes time. You have to start with beginner techniques and work your way up. Really the biggest bit of advice is to always ALWAYS work through a government administered apprenticeship unless you have no other choice. So many people have been burned with a lay off, or a bitter employer when you leave their employment that you need to really be careful about making sure you are protected in that regard. You wouldn't want to find out that your 10 months of work didn't go to anything because you can't get a signature off of someone who is being a butt. You have to hold your training in a higher regard than your employers needs somewhat when you are doing an apprenticeship, this can be really really hard sometimes though when they want you to just skip your next intake of school and give you a pay raise to your next pay level and it all sounds good but then the next thing you know you get laid off and the apprenticeship board cancels your apprenticeship because you didn't go to school and you are stuck back to being a first year again. Hooray!
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Mar 28, 2013 02:07
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What welding techniques would be better-suited for something fabrication-oriented, for lookin-at-prospective-program purposes? I'd imagine TIG and MIG/maybe FCAW?
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Mar 28, 2013 02:53
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Ambrose Burnside posted:What welding techniques would be better-suited for something fabrication-oriented, for lookin-at-prospective-program purposes? I'd imagine TIG and MIG/maybe FCAW? Work towards getting an all position S class CWB ticket for SMAW and FCAW. Those are the most easily obtained and most widely used tickets in almost all fabrications. SmokeyXIII fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Mar 28, 2013 |
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Mar 28, 2013 03:06
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About a day and a half (work days!) after bolting the headstock on the last time, I managed to get get everything repainted and the headstock bolted back on. If it's worth doing right, it's worth doing twice! I freaked out cuz I thought I was missing a thrust bearing. After examining various photos on the internet and talking with a South Bend rep, I'm not... all is well! Tomorrow spindle assembly will commence!  (As soon as I pickup some plastic paint scrapers I'll remove that old paint on the lathe bed that's still hanging around.)
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Mar 28, 2013 05:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:What welding techniques would be better-suited for something fabrication-oriented, for lookin-at-prospective-program purposes? I'd imagine TIG and MIG/maybe FCAW? MIG and FCAW are almost identical. The biggest difference is the type of wire, as the machines are the same. TIG is rarely used outside of stainless shops, or on thin gauge aluminum. SMAW I have never seen used in a shop environment, but it's used a lot on location, buildings and pipelines and that kind of thing, although it's slowly being replaced by FCAW too. ductonius posted:Welding and fabrication go hand in hand, so while what he said is more true than not, almost all fabricators are also welders (unless they're sheet metal workers, but that's pretty much Oz to me). I'm a ticketed welder, but what I do all day is build things out of metal, which is fabrication. At minimum a fabricator will be expected to tack weld pieces together for a dedicated welder to work on later. I've heard of this setup being the case at some places, but I've never seen it myself. Depends on the shop. Bigger shops, and union shops, tend to have a strict separation in place of the two. Smaller shops will usually have people working both roles.
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Mar 28, 2013 14:05
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:"cool stuff" What kind of paint do you use for industrial machines? some kind of hard wearing epoxy? or is there a specific type of paint that's meant for cast iron?
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Mar 28, 2013 18:55
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Yeti Fiasco posted:What kind of paint do you use for industrial machines? An enamel. I'm using Valspar "Tractor and implement" paint from Tractor Supply. As far as I can tell it's exactly like good ol' Rust Oleum except a little cheaper. In fact the battleship grey I mixed up, I used black Rust Oleum to darken the Valspar "light ford grey". Basically, you use anything good for iron/steel and can withstand oil and solvents well. This morning I rigged up an apparatus to press on the bull gear. After I get home from work this evening I will give the spindle a final cleaning, lubing, followed by assembly and installation into the headstock. I won't go to bed until it's finished! 
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Mar 28, 2013 19:22
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I have a motorcycle luggage rack that I want to modify. I found this tiny image of it online: I need to shorten the two legs about two inches each. Since it's just thin steel tubing, I was going to just bandsaw them off, cut out the length I need and weld them back together. I can handle TIG welding thin tubes like that but my problem is it's chrome-plated, and I've got no idea what to do in this case. Obviously I need to strip off the chrome around the joint, but I'm concerned about the incredible toxicity of any chromium compounds that might be evolved while welding. Also, I understand that chrome-plating process requires a nickel and copper coat underneath; will that cause any specific problems?
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Mar 29, 2013 18:44
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Sagebrush posted:I have a motorcycle luggage rack that I want to modify. I found this tiny image of it online: Not in that small of a dose. Wear a p100 filter if you want protection.
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Mar 29, 2013 19:43
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If you grind off all the plating welding you will be fine. A respirator wouldn't hurt. It looks like, however, if I were to shorten that, instead of cutting and re-welding, I'd attempt to flatten the tube, bend it, and drill new mounting holes, cut off the excess.
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Mar 29, 2013 19:45
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Got a four day weekend (new job owns completely) and it's BEAUTIFUL outside, time to get some poo poo done again. Thought I'd play with that flypress I bought a while back. Tried to take the handle off, and the stupid thumbscrew broke off, you can see it up top there in the grey collar. How the gently caress did that happen? Good question.   Oh, I guess that might be why. Disassembled everything. It was a major pain in the butt getting the rotating collar out of the press V block, mostly because I had no idea how it went together. The ways all seem to be in pretty decent shape.     This is the part I had a hard time with, getting it out of the big brick from before. Stupid grease was holding it all really well. Threads look good.  But holy poo poo the interior does not, lookit dat scoring.  Amazingly enough the spindle that those collars rotate around is absolutely pristine.  Couple flaws in the acme thread. Nothing TOO horrific. I couldn't see these when I bought it, this thread is always in the main casting until you take everything out.  Minor flaw in the press block after I cleaned it up.  The "business end". Looks alright.  Holy gently caress I should have opted for the undercoating.  Cleaned it up a bit. Ground down some casting bumps, the cast iron stuff is kinda rough.  I thought I might as well grind off all the old paint, it had flaked off in a couple places and rusted a little. Nothing too bad, but I had it apart, figured why as hell not. While I was doing it, I realized it wasn't given primer as a first coat, that poo poo was body filler.  I was curious as to why the makers would bother with that, but I didn't think much of it until I found a couple of minor casting flaws. "Oh, it's just to smooth it out a little, well that's not a bad idea. Hope I don't find any big pits in th-"   Holy poo poo. Man, that is BAD. It's amazing I didn't find any cracks in the throat there, I guess it's never seen really heavy use. Welp, whatever, not much I can do about that, just gotta use it until it breaks I suppose. The hole wasn't even all that big when I found it, it was about the size of a peanut. I took a chisel to it to break out the chunk of filler that was stuck in there and it just kept getting bigger and bigger. Got to use my drill press for the first time. Seriously should have bought one of these years ago. 1/2" holes in 1/2" steel plate, no time flat, plus my shoulder isn't dying.  Quick coat of primer and paint. Used red because I still have about 3-4 cans left over from my tractor.   I cleaned off and coated all the working parts in WD-40 to act as a barrier until I get it all back together. I think I'll stick with a nice thick oil to keep this thing lubed instead of grease, grease holds too much poo poo next to the metal. I'll weld the table up on Sunday, weather permitting.
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Mar 30, 2013 01:35
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Slung Blade posted:Holy poo poo. Man, that is BAD. It's amazing I didn't find any cracks in the throat there, I guess it's never seen really heavy use. Welp, whatever, not much I can do about that, just gotta use it until it breaks I suppose. I've found some very minor casting flaws on my lathe while paint stripping, but nothing quite like that. Body filler is apparently very popular on various types of castings. Likewise, lots of "non-critical" welds in this world get cleaned up with caulk and then painted over.
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Mar 30, 2013 01:55
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:While that is one hell of an amazing casting flaw, despite how large it is, I don't see that press breaking. Still plenty of good iron. Even with the scoring and the screws, I think it's going to work OK. Yeah, I'm not that worried about it. I was happy with the state of the thread though, there's no major slop in it, it all still feels night and firm. That's the most important part.
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Mar 30, 2013 02:03
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