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Well it doesn't look like the guy selling the forester I was looking at is going to move much on the price. He wrote me talking about how KBB bases prices on probability of incurring repair costs and since he has already addressed the known issues, the KBB price doesn't apply to him. Would I be laughing stock if I spent 4k (he's asking 5) for a 218k mile forester L? Clutch, head gasket and timing belt stuff were all done recently but... Sigh.
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Mar 29, 2013 14:09
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Would you buy a $3K Forester in the same condition and then do the same work yourself? That's what you'd be getting at $4k if it works perfectly. If he hosed the job up, then it wouldn't be a deal at all since you'd be doing it again. When you look at, pick around a bit and talk him down some more? If he'll drop $1K over email exchange, he might do a little more in person. (Unless $4K was your counter and not his) Sockington fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Mar 29, 2013 |
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Mar 29, 2013 14:15
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That just seems like a crapload of money for a car with over 200k mileage. Around here (Philly area) I'd give that guy $3200 tops.
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Mar 29, 2013 14:36
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bawfuls posted:oh gently caress that noise!
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Mar 29, 2013 14:47
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I haven't made an offer yet at all. KBB says 2450 dollars. I would do any and all work on this or any other car myself. If I assume 1000-1300 for parts, that puts the value at 3800 max in my mind. Is 1300 a good estimate for the parts? I think I'll offer him KBB + retail on the newer parts. Since they aren't worth retail, I'll be capturing some of the labor. But still, 218 k miles is alot. Maybe I should give up on this one 
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Mar 29, 2013 15:04
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I haven't made an offer yet at all. KBB says 2450 dollars. I would do any and all work on this or any other car myself. If I assume 1000-1300 for parts, that puts the value at 3800 max in my mind. Is 1300 a good estimate for the parts? I think I'll offer him KBB + retail on the newer parts. Since they aren't worth retail, I'll be capturing some of the labor. If you're a DIY guy, get a shitbox like I did with my legacy and make it not a shitbox.
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Mar 29, 2013 15:14
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Check the NADA value if you want another reference point, if I wasn't on my phone I'd do it for you. But I last paid 3500 for a Contour with 77K, not totally comparable but 200K seems crazy to me.
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Mar 29, 2013 18:01
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sim posted:I just put a deposit down to order a 2013 WRX hatch. Guess it will be my first and last WRX. Actually, I find it kind of hard to believe they won't bring the hatch back (get it?) at some point. I'm obviously speaking out of my rear end since I don't know the sales numbers, but there are many WRX/STI owners who wouldn't buy the car in sedan form. Dumping the wagon/hatch seems like a bad idea. I haven't looked at the numbers but it does seem pretty popular around here. It's a great mix of performance and utility. Are there any other performance oriented AWD wagons for under $30K? Also, I've yet to see anything official about them being discontinued, so hopefully that link is wrong.
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Mar 29, 2013 18:17
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I haven't made an offer yet at all. KBB says 2450 dollars. I would do any and all work on this or any other car myself. If I assume 1000-1300 for parts, that puts the value at 3800 max in my mind. Is 1300 a good estimate for the parts? I think I'll offer him KBB + retail on the newer parts. Since they aren't worth retail, I'll be capturing some of the labor.
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Mar 29, 2013 19:04
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Remember to factor in supply & demand... something I feel a lot of internet shoppers fail to do (I don't know if that's really the case here, but it's an excuse to share my anecdote  ). Several years ago, I had a reasonably rare Legacy GT that I tried to sell (back before they were turbo). I put it on NASIOC first for about $1000 more than KBB due to its rarity. In the thread, I pretty much got laughed at for my asking price. I put it on Craigslist the next day... in a half hour I had 50 e-mails. An hour after that, the car was sold and I wished I had asked for MORE money. I guess the moral of the story is that lots of people act as if they think a car's value is whatever KBB or Edmunds tells them, but realistically, it's whatever other people might be willing to pay.
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Mar 29, 2013 19:33
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syphon posted:I guess the moral of the story is that lots of people act as if they think a car's value is whatever KBB or Edmunds tells them, but realistically, it's whatever other people might be willing to pay. And he's not willing to pay the asking price
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Mar 29, 2013 19:38
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4-5K is a lot of money for a car with 212K miles on it. I highly doubt anyone will be willing to pay that.
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Mar 29, 2013 19:41
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il serpente cosmico posted:4-5K is a lot of money for a car with 212K miles on it. I highly doubt anyone will be willing to pay that. If it has say... 80k miles on it, then I could see the guy asking for a premium. But just because you did appropriate maintenance does not mean that you get to ask double KBB. If he had let the car rot and break, it doesn't magically make the car worth Very Good KBB. It makes it worth significantly less than that. This is why KBB has the excellent, very good, good, fair and poor classifications. I would describe his as in the Very Good category which assumes it is in excellent mechanical condition. Show up to look at it with $2,800 in your pocket and see if he refuses cash on the spot.
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Mar 29, 2013 19:48
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I haven't made an offer yet at all. KBB says 2450 dollars. I would do any and all work on this or any other car myself. If I assume 1000-1300 for parts, that puts the value at 3800 max in my mind. Is 1300 a good estimate for the parts? I think I'll offer him KBB + retail on the newer parts. Since they aren't worth retail, I'll be capturing some of the labor. Move on.
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Mar 29, 2013 20:19
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il serpente cosmico posted:Dumping the wagon/hatch seems like a bad idea. I haven't looked at the numbers but it does seem pretty popular around here. It's a great mix of performance and utility. Are there any other performance oriented AWD wagons for under $30K? No, there are not, which is why it would suck for the WRX hatch to disappear. I saw another article speculate that the hatch was going away as well, so I'm pessimistic.
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Mar 29, 2013 20:27
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Amandyke posted:If it has say... 80k miles on it, then I could see the guy asking for a premium. But just because you did appropriate maintenance does not mean that you get to ask double KBB. If he had let the car rot and break, it doesn't magically make the car worth Very Good KBB. It makes it worth significantly less than that. This is why KBB has the excellent, very good, good, fair and poor classifications. I would describe his as in the Very Good category which assumes it is in excellent mechanical condition. Show up to look at it with $2,800 in your pocket and see if he refuses cash on the spot. See, this is more consistent with my line of thinking as compared to what the guy was telling me about "statistical probability" of repair cost. Maintenance shouldn't increase the value, it should ensure that the value is retained. I'd love to just show with cash, but he can only meet as his place on Sunday afternoon and because of where he lives, I'll be in ski traffic on the way back to my house. I guess I could just go skiing for a half day... I'll email him an offer for 2800 cash and see what he says. I have s feeling its going to be nothing or something as silly as "statistical probability."
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Mar 29, 2013 21:31
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I'll email him an offer for 2800 cash and see what he says. I have s feeling its going to be nothing or something as silly as "statistical probability." And that would be your cue to find a lower mileage example.
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Mar 29, 2013 22:36
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Seriously, it shouldn't be hard to find a forester with less mileage at a better price. This took me all of 2 minutes to find in my area: http://novascotia.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2002-Subaru-Forester-4-cyl-Wagon-W0QQAdIdZ468784905
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Mar 29, 2013 22:44
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So, a little wary to break my record of many years – and accounts – of trolling AI here, but as the (relatively) proud owner of an '01 WRX wagon I was wondering how people feel about the Whiteline Subframe Lock Bolts and Diff Lock Bushings? Looking to tighten up the rear of the car a little and for £40 all up it doesn't seem too bad, a better bet than the 10000x STI STYLE strut braces I see on eBay anyway.
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Mar 29, 2013 22:49
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I wouldn't try to agree to a hard price over email, especially a half-asking price lowball. When they see "cash in hand", their price can change dramatically after having tire kickers. Just ask his lowest price before meeting, arrange to meet, and then do final negotiations upon a personal inspection of the vehicle.
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Mar 29, 2013 23:04
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justbark posted:These last few posts have me worried that my 05 LGT a ticking time bomb. The main problem as I understand it is that the USDM tune, and to a lesser extent, the cobb tunes can lean out. Not tracking the poo poo out of the car my help too.
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Mar 29, 2013 23:42
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I HATE PINK BIKES posted:So, a little wary to break my record of many years – and accounts – of trolling AI here, but as the (relatively) proud owner of an '01 WRX wagon I was wondering how people feel about the Whiteline Subframe Lock Bolts and Diff Lock Bushings? Looking to tighten up the rear of the car a little and for £40 all up it doesn't seem too bad, a better bet than the 10000x STI STYLE strut braces I see on eBay anyway. I have the lock bolts and diff bushings in my 06 WRX wagon. It's quite nice. The outrigger bushings (separate from the diff bushings, very easy to install) will kill the THUMP when you upshift too quickly. I would strongly recommend the rear strut bar anyway if you have a wagon. The difference when I installed the STI rear strut tower bar was extremely noticeable and if you can figure out a quick release that works with it (the Paranoid kit didn't end up working for me) you won't even be that sad about losing cargo room. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 00:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I have the lock bolts and diff bushings in my 06 WRX wagon. It's quite nice. The outrigger bushings (separate from the diff bushings, very easy to install) will kill the THUMP when you upshift too quickly. Cool, that's what I'm looking for. Seat Safety Switch posted:I would strongly recommend the rear strut bar anyway if you have a wagon. The difference when I installed the STI rear strut tower bar was extremely noticeable and if you can figure out a quick release that works with it (the Paranoid kit didn't end up working for me) you won't even be that sad about losing cargo room. Are you talking about an actual STI rear strut tower bar or one of the eBay specials ... though I suppose at £30 the latter is worth a shot anyway.
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Mar 30, 2013 00:36
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daslog posted:Move on. This. The guy just spent a lot of time and money on the car and doesn't want to see it go down the drain. But cars are called money pits for a reason. Some people don't like dealing with the reality. He might get lucky and reel in a sucker, or it might sit on Craigslist for a while and you can talk to him again if you haven't found another example.
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Mar 30, 2013 00:48
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Neptr posted:This. The guy just spent a lot of time and money on the car and doesn't want to see it go down the drain. But cars are called money pits for a reason. Some people don't like dealing with the reality. He might get lucky and reel in a sucker, or it might sit on Craigslist for a while and you can talk to him again if you haven't found another example. But really find one with good body and driveline but with a blown motor for under 1k and put a new engine in it. Save the money and have a fresh motor (or as fresh as you can get from a donor car)
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Mar 30, 2013 01:06
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Hey Subaru guys. Long time fan here, never owned one, until maybe soon...? Person near me is selling a 98 Legacy GT Limited 130k miles for....$600??? This has gotta be a scam, right? It Bluebooks for $4k in fair condition. Everyone else on craigslist sells older turds with more problems and less quality for more than that. ( i.e "dude it doesn't have a transmission and its 15 years old but its a HONDA dumbass, $2k plz no low ballin" etc) Pics on craigslist look legit...body appears to be whole. quote:98 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Awd 130000 miles. Currently not running needs a timing belt job. The timing belt is not broke however had the car looked at and the original jumped timing. Was a great little car just dont have the money to fix. I don't know what the crap "the original jumped timing" is supposed to mean, exactly. I'm not terribly familiar with these engines....as a weekend mechanic, is this worth the $600 or is this a steal? Definitely going to check it out either way, if it stays up long. Will update you guys if you care... Also any info about these you guys wanna throw my way that isn't readily Google/YouTube available I will of course appreciate. Thanks in advance! Omglosser fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 04:58
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It is very easy for Subarus, when parked, to roll down a hill a little bit and advance the timing belt one or two teeth (or more). It's happened a few times on the local club and it happened all the time (from the factory even) in the 70s and 80s (there are some retainers to keep it from happening on the modern engines but they're not perfect). This can often also happen from a lack of proper maintenance (seized idlers, letting the cams spin while the timing belt is off, tensioner failure or stretched/damaged belt for instance). Depending on how many teeth were jumped you could be OK. At the very least you'd have to do a timing belt and re-time the engine, which isn't a big deal. I would be worried for potential valve damage as those are an interference engine. Since the car doesn't run I would guess the latter - if it were just off by a tooth or so it would run like poo poo but still run. If it's a 98 2.5L it no doubt has either had or is going to have head gasket issues which are discussed further in the OP of this thread I would probably take the gamble - even if the engine is toast you can part out the rest of the car (hell, just the sensors probably) for more than $600. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 05:01
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Thanks buddy! I figure if I'm gonna have to get into the engine anyways for the timing belt I can inspect everything else. I've got free access to AllData Pro at work and the space to work on it. If its still available, I'm gonna get it. I highly doubt the offer will last long, if its legit. I emailed them tonight...here's crossing my fingers!
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Mar 30, 2013 05:10
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Omglosser posted:Hey Subaru guys. Long time fan here, never owned one, until maybe soon...? The '98 LGT is a phase 1, which means it's the twincam engine. It is a full interference design, has piston-slap issues and eats head gaskets every 60k mi or so. If it's the automatic the transmission is probably ready for replacement too. Be aware that this engine is a potential money pit if it is bad. That being said, if it's in decent shape it's a great engine and the the BD is my favourite Legacy chassis ever.
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Mar 30, 2013 05:39
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Sockington posted:I wouldn't try to agree to a hard price over email, especially a half-asking price lowball. When they see "cash in hand", their price can change dramatically after having tire kickers. This is a very good point. I'll often get tired of people low balling me via e-mail and asking for my "best price" only to come and low ball me in person even more. Go meet the guy, show him you're not just some jerk and that you'll love and take care of the care, then make him an offer and I bet he'll consider budging more. I have a 98 S manual with cloth heated seats for about a year. Great car.
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Mar 30, 2013 05:39
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sofullofhate posted:The '98 LGT is a phase 1, which means it's the twincam engine. It is a full interference design, has piston-slap issues and eats head gaskets every 60k mi or so. If it's the automatic the transmission is probably ready for replacement too. Be aware that this engine is a potential money pit if it is bad. Does it even go through the updated head gaskets that often? The OP mentioned that Subaru made a better one that is less faulty. I am worried about potential damage if it was being driven hard while the timing was off (however briefly that would have been)....but that being said I can hold on to it until I'm ready to put a new engine in or part it out as someone else suggested. And according to some anonymous internet Subaru mechanic, the supposed piston-slap is apparently a timing belt tensioner issue? http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/11/piston-slap-subaru-piston-slap/ quote:34 years as a Subaru tech. Anyways, I still haven't heard back from these people, granted its only been about 9 hours since I emailed them. They didn't post a phone number, and I'm assuming that there are a lot more bone-heads out there besides me who saw a '98 Subaru for $600 and leapt at it. I suppose I can always call this other guy and pick up that '01 Ford Taurus for $600 to tinker with 
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Mar 30, 2013 13:41
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Why is the paint on these cars so weak? I have 18k miles, and my front bumper has magnitudes more chips than my old Pontiac that had 190k miles.
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Mar 30, 2013 19:30
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Water based paints and also trying to keep weight down. Almost everyone has trouble with thin paint chipping easily at the moment and certain brands even have weird problems with paint peeling completely off (usually only on white cars, though). The first thing I bought for my '06 when I got it was a 3M clear bra. Conversely, I've dropped a literal desk chair on the hood of my (oil-based paint) '97 and it didn't even scratch it.
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Mar 30, 2013 19:37
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Update...proud owner of a 1998 Legacy  It definitely needs some work. Throwing a P0336 on the OBDII (Crankshaft Position Sensor Range/Performance)....Some shady rear end/retarded as gently caress, ghetto/unnecessary electrical work on this thing. All kinds of wires just randomly cut and spliced, for no apparent reason, and in some cases just cut. Oil seepage all over the engine. Crankshaft position sensor fastener replaced by a hose clamp. There's a broken vacuum hose from the big plastic box that connects between the air filter and the throttle body. Cylinder 3 has no spark. Cylinder 1's wire is shaved off slightly where it plugs into the coil...and it appears to not be even the right wire? The other 3 are elbowed, this one is straight...is this normal? Also the coil pack has space for four fasteners to hold it down, but there are only 3 fasteners holding it down...is something missing? I also noticed several other important looking fasteners missing here and there. Body is in decent shape. Usual bits of paint chipping here and there, no biggie. Noticed water dripping out of the rear tail light when it was angled up going on the tow truck. Tires are in alright shape. Rims look good. No brake fluid in it. Dunno what's up with that. (My dumbass didn't think to ask "why what happened?" when the dude said "you're gonna need to bleed the brakes") Center console literally smells like something died in it. Upholstery good. Trans dipstick broken and "fixed" by a wad of painter's tape. Free Kenny Loggins tape and Canadian dime. I'm gonna start with the cheapest and most probable fix: the wiring. Gonna try to sort all that mess out and get new wires and connectors if need be. After that, I'm gonna give the timing belt and tensioner replacement a go, and possibly the crank and cam sensors while I'm at it. If it runs at that point, I'll go ahead and swap out the head gasket (thanks, OP!). Once all of that is taken care of, probably just tackle whatever little poo poo I come across. The guy I bought it from said his gf's dad owned it and he was a "weird, kinda wishy washy mechanic". He gave it to the gf who asked this guy to sell it, apparently. The seller said he also tinkered with it some, so god only knows wtf was done to it between him and the "mechanic". Seller also said a Subaru mechanic came out and diagnosed it for him as the timing belt and was gonna buy it from him.......suspicious if you ask me. But whatever. It's my problem now. I'm guessing the timing belt claim was accurate based on the DTC, as the sensor seems to be in ok shape besides being held in by a hose clamp. It won't turn over but it will crank repeatedly. It ALMOST started up once...I'm not knowledgeable enough to be certain of the exact problem yet. Seller said he drove it to the store and back with no problems one day, but went to start it back up and it would not turn over, and its been sitting since (3 months roughly). Like I said I'm no pro but that doesn't sound like timing belt to me. So, probably in the next few days I'm gonna start a project thread with lots of fun pictures of the wreck-tech crap I found and will fix. Omglosser fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 20:19
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Thinking about getting a Crosstrek XV. Searching the thread, I see a few post about it but not too much. I know it's a lifted Impreza, but I love the look and it should be a big upgrade from my current car, a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee that's starting to fall apart. Anyone got any opinions on it? Looking around, it seems to have really positive reviews.
CloFan fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 21:07
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CloFan posted:Thinking about getting a Crosstrek XV. Searching the thread, I see a few post about it but not too much. I know it's a listed Impreza, but I love the look and it should be a big upgrade from my current car, a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee that's starting to fall apart. Anyone got any opinions on it? Looking around, it seems to have really positive reviews. I've driven a few. If you like the current Impreza and like jumping curbs too it's the car for you. I could be biased because of my strange almost perverse love of the outback sport.
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Mar 30, 2013 21:43
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Omglosser posted:Update...proud owner of a 1998 Legacy Sounds awesome. Make a new thread with pictures and we can help.
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Mar 30, 2013 22:03
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Yeah, it doesn't sound like too bad of a car for a hick rescue project. Interior pieces can be junkyarded pretty easily and the carpet comes out quickly as well. After that you can just fix things piecemeal and worst case have a roller to flip later even if the engine is toast. Front end body parts are always in demand too. Brakes being dry is probably caliper piston seals leaking. Rebuild kits are cheap.
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Mar 30, 2013 22:12
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Yes another sub 1000 dollar subaru project. Even if the motor is hosed, you can swap in another or a 2.2 and have a nice reliable car.
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Mar 30, 2013 23:11
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Oh yeah. That would be an ej25d. I forgot. In that case definitely swap in an ej22. Use the ej25 for a desk ornament.
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Mar 30, 2013 23:13
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