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If you can find a D3100 that would be just dandy.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:10
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D90
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Apr 1, 2013 03:20
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Here in Austalia I can get a D3100 new for AU$299 (grey imported by these guys). I assume that things are similar (or better) where you are, since AU prices are generally terrible.
Dia de Pikachutos fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Apr 1, 2013 03:31
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spongepuppy posted:Edit: To answer your actual question, I am told that the Tamron 70-300 VC is quite good value, and would be more than enough zoom for most people. I have not used it myself. Check the gear thread for recommendations, too. I love love love mine but I think it would be a tad heavy and a tad long with the hood on to take on a vacation where photography isn't the priority.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:35
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There might be a d3100 in my area on CL for $375 seller might go for something closer to 300, otherwise d90's are going for 400+ with lens. I know the d40 was recommended before the d3100 appeared would that be worth getting or too old don't bother? from what I've read a d90 would be a great camera to get but I doubt I'll be that lucky based on the prices I see for that much I could easily get a d3100.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:41
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Ezekiel_980 posted:There might be a d3100 in my area on CL for $375 seller might go for something closer to 300, otherwise d90's are going for 400+ with lens. I know the d40 was recommended before the d3100 appeared would that be worth getting or too old don't bother? from what I've read a d90 would be a great camera to get but I doubt I'll be that lucky based on the prices I see for that much I could easily get a d3100. The D90 has an internal AF motor where the D3100 does not (plus a host of other features) which will give you a much wider selection of lens choices. It would be worth it to keep your eyes peeled for an affordable D90 IMHO. Maker Of Shoes fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Apr 1, 2013 03:45
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Maker Of Shoes posted:The D90 has an internal AF motor where the D3100 does not (plus a host of other features) which will give you a much wider selection of lens choices. It would be worth it to keep your eyes peeled for an affordable D90 IMHO. What would be considered a fair price for one?
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Apr 1, 2013 04:03
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Ezekiel_980 posted:What would be considered a fair price for one? The D90? Nikon just dropped the price. I know Nikon USA has a refurb store http://shop.nikonusa.com/store/nikonusa/pd/productID.213427600 that you can buy it at for dirt cheap. Check for an AU version.
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Apr 1, 2013 04:10
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It would be neat as hell if you could send AIS lenses to Nikon and have them replace the old glass with new glass. The 85 1.4 AIS with all the new coatings would be incredible. E: People love the 85 1.8 AFD, and it's about $400. red19fire fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Apr 1, 2013 19:31
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Looking for a good portrait lens for my D600. Right now I have the 24-85/3.5-4.5 and the 70-300/4.5-5.6, so neither's ideal. I'm looking for something along the lines of the 85/1.8, but I'm really not up on what's out there either from other manufacturers or on the no-longer-produced-but-can-get-from-keh market. Does anyone have any recommendations in that regard? I'm sort of intrigued by the Rokinon 85/1.4 aspherical, even if it's all manual. Anyone using this lens? Semi-related question. One of the downsides of the D600 is that it only syncs to 1/200th, but after a few years of putting the purchase off I finally have some Pocket Wizards on the way, and they supposedly have some gee-whiz tech that lets you get maybe an extra stop of flash sync before it switches over to high-speed sync and starts losing a lot of light, but it looks like how much extra you can get away with is very dependent on your camera/flash combination. So, does anyone have any feedback on that issue with a D600 and SB-600? Or would I be better off asking about that in the lighting thread?
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Apr 1, 2013 19:42
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Well, for portait lenses, if cost isn't a major issue see if you can find the Nikkor 105/2 DC or 135/2 DC, they're supposed to be amazing. If cost is an issue, you should be able to find an AI-s 135/2.8 quite easily.
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Apr 1, 2013 19:49
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85/1.8D is nice (fringes a little bit), Sigma's 85/1.4 is good, the new 85/1.8G is also good. It's hard to gently caress up a 85.
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Apr 1, 2013 19:50
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The multicoating on the AIS lenses isn't all that different from the coatings on most contemporary lenses, unless you're talking about the nano-coatings on high-end lenses. Nikon was really ahead of the curve with developing coatings (at least compared to Canon), and most AIS primes don't have enough transmission surfaces to really warrant anything better than what they have.
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Apr 1, 2013 19:55
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Well after some looking I opted for the D3100, got a used one off amazon for $360 with the 18-55mm lens. If i hadn't hosed around yesterday I could have gotten a d90 for about the same without the lens but was gone before I realized how good of a price it was.
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Apr 1, 2013 23:05
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Phanatic posted:Looking for a good portrait lens for my D600. Right now I have the 24-85/3.5-4.5 and the 70-300/4.5-5.6, so neither's ideal. I'm looking for something along the lines of the 85/1.8, but I'm really not up on what's out there either from other manufacturers or on the no-longer-produced-but-can-get-from-keh market. Does anyone have any recommendations in that regard? I'm sort of intrigued by the Rokinon 85/1.4 aspherical, even if it's all manual. Anyone using this lens? Whoa there, no one's recommended the manual focus 105mm f/2.5? Small, fairly light, tack sharp, cheap.
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Apr 2, 2013 17:04
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The only true portrait lens is the 135 f/2 DC.
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Apr 2, 2013 17:05
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DanTheFryingPan posted:Whoa there, no one's recommended the manual focus 105mm f/2.5? Small, fairly light, tack sharp, cheap. The 105mm f/2.5 AI is goddamn legendary and any Nikon mount shooter that doesn't own one is dumb.
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Apr 2, 2013 17:19
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I actually picked up a Tamron 90mm 2.5 out of the gear thread, and grabbed an AIS adapter for it off of KEH.
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Apr 3, 2013 04:22
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Apparently a Nikon firmware update is out for several cameras. Including the HDMI crop fix! http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/04/02/nikon-updates-firmware-for-D600-D800-d4-d3s-d3x-d3-d7000-d3200
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Apr 3, 2013 04:43
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Phanatic posted:Looking for a good portrait lens for my D600. Right now I have the 24-85/3.5-4.5 and the 70-300/4.5-5.6, so neither's ideal. I'm looking for something along the lines of the 85/1.8, but I'm really not up on what's out there either from other manufacturers or on the no-longer-produced-but-can-get-from-keh market. Does anyone have any recommendations in that regard? I'm sort of intrigued by the Rokinon 85/1.4 aspherical, even if it's all manual. Anyone using this lens? I have a Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 and I really like using it. I don't actually use it much because I find it kind of too long for crop cameras, but when I do it's been sharp and fun to use. I do have a split prism focus screen in my camera, though, so I don't know how hard it would be to focus without one.
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Apr 6, 2013 20:33
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ShadeofBlue posted:I have a Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 and I really like using it. I don't actually use it much because I find it kind of too long for crop cameras, but when I do it's been sharp and fun to use. I do have a split prism focus screen in my camera, though, so I don't know how hard it would be to focus without one. I've also used the Samyang 85 1.4 and honestly it was pretty drat good. No autofocus obviously, but I believe this one was auto-aperture at least (or had the contacts for it and a proper aperture ring with the locking tab and stuff).
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Apr 7, 2013 01:31
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How does it compare to the Nikon 85 1.8? I've actually been quite pleased with the sharpness of that lens the one time I rented it (on full frame), but I would prefer having something with a manual aperture ring.
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Apr 7, 2013 02:17
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1st AD posted:How does it compare to the Nikon 85 1.8? I've actually been quite pleased with the sharpness of that lens the one time I rented it (on full frame), but I would prefer having something with a manual aperture ring. The 85 1.8 I have no idea, but I saw some article one time that found it to actually be comparable to the Nikon 85 1.4. As in, fairly equal in most tests, actually better than the Nikon in one weird edge-case test.
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Apr 7, 2013 03:38
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I've been looking at getting that Rokinon 85mm and trying to save money by justifying that it's too long for crop and I'd be too impatient with the MF. I hate you guys. The search begins.
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Apr 8, 2013 03:31
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I read somewhere that the Samyang/Rokinon/Whatever-they-call-it-where-you-live 85/1.4 is mostly optimized for DX, and gets weird on full-frame. Re. FOV, my Nikkor 135/2 AI-S is now my favourite lens, and that's just slightly narrower than a 85 on DX. The subject isolation is  but it's a bit of a bastard to nail focus with, and I wouldn't even want to try without the DK-17M.
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Apr 8, 2013 19:52
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I need a decent wide angle lens for an upcoming trip to Ireland that doesn't break the bank. It looks like the Tokina-12-24mm-AT-X-DX-II is my best option. I have a D90. Thoughts?
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Apr 9, 2013 14:09
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Kaddish posted:I need a decent wide angle lens for an upcoming trip to Ireland that doesn't break the bank. It looks like the Tokina-12-24mm-AT-X-DX-II is my best option. I have a D90. Thoughts? on DX the 8-16 Sigma is what I would want.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:08
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tijag posted:on DX the 8-16 Sigma is what I would want. It's $250 more. Too expensive.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:32
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Check the Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6. Not sure if it's cheaper than the Tokina, but it was the cheapest option when I bought it.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:36
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I'm looking to sell my Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6. I'll make a post in the buy/sell thread after work.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:49
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FACKER posted:I'm looking to sell my Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6. I'll make a post in the buy/sell thread after work. Cool, I'll check that out. Another question, do I need a different circular polarizer desgined for a wide angle lens or can I just use my existing one? I see they have them but I don't know if they're strictly necessary.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:00
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I don't believe you need a different polarizer but I'm not sure. However, I think you'll find that at such a wide field of view, the light is being captured from all different angles so the effect of the polarizer will be different in different parts of the frame. You can capture so much sky with a super wide lens that it will unnaturally change color with a polarizing filter. An example: http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/secretsamba/2179131512/
FACKER fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 17:25
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Not to be too obvious but you do have to make sure the polarizer is actually big enough for the gigantic threading of a wide angle lens.
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Apr 9, 2013 18:04
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Has anyone tried one of those Bresson split image screens in a D600/800? Not much in the way of reviews but they don't seem to be all that great, at least for the very few that there are. Unfortunately that seems to be the only choice in terms of split image screens. The green dot just isn't getting along with my old nikkors and missing focus by less than an inch is frustrating to say the least.
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Apr 10, 2013 05:30
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snuffles posted:Has anyone tried one of those Bresson split image screens in a D600/800? Not much in the way of reviews but they don't seem to be all that great, at least for the very few that there are. Unfortunately that seems to be the only choice in terms of split image screens. The green dot just isn't getting along with my old nikkors and missing focus by less than an inch is frustrating to say the least. I used to think my D7000 AF was faulty because I was missing focus constantly on the 85mm 1.4 AIS. It turns out that the widest aperture that Nikons will use in focusing is 2.8, so as long as the 2.8 DOF is focused, the green dot lights up. However, if your aperture is faster than that, it will open up the aperture upon shutter release, and the 1.4 DOF area falls where it may. It might be incorrect, that's how it was explained to me. What helps is to try to focus "front to back", so that the focus area moves towards the subject. My success rate went way up after I started doing that.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:02
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red19fire posted:What helps is to try to focus "front to back", so that the focus area moves towards the subject. Explain that a bit would you, I think I understand but..
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Apr 10, 2013 16:13
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It's weird to explain. Using an AIS lens, i twist the focus so that the focal plane is in front of the subject, then gradually focus towards the subject until the green light comes on. So if you were looking at my focus scale, I turn it so it goes from 7' to 10' (with the subject at 10 feet); rather than 13' to 10'. When the lens stops up from 2.8 to 1.4, it's more likely to have the correct area in focus. I find this to be the better way of  where correct focus is on AIS lenses. I think K*Rock goes into detail on it somewhere on his site.
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Apr 10, 2013 16:35
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I have read somewhere before that the AF sensors in Nikon AF modules are taking readings from an area equivalent to an f5.6 aperture. I.E. they are measuring if the lens is being stopped down to f5.6, even when it is not. Some Canon DSLRs, like the 7D and the 5DII, have f2.8 sensitive AF sensors which are taking readings from an f2.8 area, but there aren't any Nikon cameras with this feature AFAIK. The problem is that some lenses, especially fast lenses, have this issue called focus shift, whereby the point in focus actually shifts depending on the aperture used. So an AF sensor which is only taking in readings from the f5.6 image circle of an f1.4 lens may detect that it in focus, but the imagine will appear to be out of focus at f1.4. How this problem is mitigated in modern DSLRs is that there is a look up table inside each lens which tells the body how much focus shift that particular lens has, so the AF system is able to compensate for it. Obviously this doesn't work when you are using a manual lens faster than f5.6 with focus shift, as there is no look up table for the camera body to compensate by. This is further aggravated by the fact that current AF modules are not absolutely accurate, especially in poor light and on subjects with poor contrast. One way to overcome this is to do a custom AF fine tune of the lens at the aperture you are mostly intending to use the manual lens at, or at a median aperture as a compromise. Do this by setting the lens at that aperture and then focus on an AF target from near to far and watching when the AF point lights up. Adjust the af fine tune until you get a satisfactory result. This works as you are using the point where the green dot begins to appear from the near side, not just the entire range where the green dot appears. Hope my explanation is clear enough!
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Apr 10, 2013 16:43
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Any updates on the D600 dirty sensor issue? Mostly, are recent new or refurbished cameras still affected? I'm thinking about upgrading but don't want to deal with the hassles I heard of.
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Apr 10, 2013 17:31
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red19fire posted:It's weird to explain. Using an AIS lens, i twist the focus so that the focal plane is in front of the subject, then gradually focus towards the subject until the green light comes on. So if you were looking at my focus scale, I turn it so it goes from 7' to 10' (with the subject at 10 feet); rather than 13' to 10'. When the lens stops up from 2.8 to 1.4, it's more likely to have the correct area in focus. I find this to be the better way of Thank you, just wanted to be sure I understood 
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Apr 10, 2013 18:01
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