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The Loctite glue for plastics is what is overwhelmingly most frequently used/recommended to join serpentine belts on south bends on PracticalMachinist/HSM forums, so obviously he has done his research. Rapplon and others make heat curing glues that use a heated press to cure the glue in the joint in-situ. I don't know how it works on serpentine belts. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 04:47
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Chauncey posted:Rapplon and others make heat curing glues that use a heated press to cure the glue in the joint in-situ. I don't know how it works on serpentine belts. I dunno if I'd trust that if it was my machine. Seems a little snakey.
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Apr 3, 2013 05:02
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:
What about a link belt like a power twist? Seems like the best solution.
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Apr 3, 2013 17:55
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Looking to have some custom dies made for my small business. I'd like to know some points I should look for that would be beneficial for the way I intend to use them. I will be using it to cut through thin to medium leather. I would like to cut through a few layers at once totaling no more than 1/4 inch in thickness. The thing is I need to not only cut the 8"x3" rectangles necessary for my design, but several small close together holes. ten holes run down the 3 inch side. And 26 across the bottom. I am very curious of how they would even make the die able to cut these holes, and the whole process of this all together. I was just wondering if there was a certain kind of die or material that would be best for prolonged use like this, and if someone could actually do this for me I am looking to get them done asap. I'm all for goon business. I know they wear eventually, could I just use my dremel to sharpen the edges? I have a rigged up arbor press with some flat steel to serve as a click press for the die. I will be bolting a cutting board to the bottom piece to prevent extra stress to the die. Essentially I will just be placing the leather on, placing the die over the leather, and cranking shut to punch my entire design in one go.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:42
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You can use different sizes of tubing and sharpen the end appropriately to make the hole punches. Or buy a set. I'm sure an import set up to 1.5" will be cheap. For the rectangles you can take a bandsaw blade, sharpen the back side of it, and press it into a groove in a piece of plywood in the shape you desire. It's called a steel rule die and googling should give you a bunch of info. You will likely need to move the die around under the press unless you have a big one. I have to move around the periphery of the dies I've made that are a non-round shape or rounds over ~6" to get enough pressure to penetrate 1/4" thick rubber with a large arbor press. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 04:03
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For a size of 3x8", if you were using wood to hold the steel blades (not a bad idea!,) I would back the wood with a good piece of steel plate, to assist in providing even force. I could see an arbor press splitting a piece of 3x8x? with enough force to go through that much leather. Lathe update: The epoxy never cured at all... not even what was left on the cardboard where I mixed it. I think it didn't like the cold weather or I didn’t mix it enough, or something. I'll try it again inside. Been poking around on the saddle a bit more, all the rust is off the important surfaces, and they look great. As soon as the weather warms up again I'll start some painting... should be getting some parts back from the blaster any day now! AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 04:45
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Chauncey posted:You can use different sizes of tubing and sharpen the end appropriately to make the hole punches. Or buy a set. I'm sure an import set up to 1.5" will be cheap. This all sounds crazy to me. Good lead on the steel rule dies. I have found a lot more information than I did by simple searching custom dies. Not looking to make my own right now. No time to experiment with it. I actually need the die because I had a month long sale of 10$ wallets and I could use the help this machine will bring. So between sewing the wallets and replying to customers I have no time to take on this kind of thing. I get what you are saying about the press. I am having a piece of steel welded to each end of the press, like a sandwich to evenly distribute all of the weight. The bottom steel plate will also have threaded holes so I can bolt on a cutting board to prolong the life of my dies. AbsentMindedWelder posted:For a size of 3x8", if you were using wood to hold the steel blades (not a bad idea!,) I would back the wood with a good piece of steel plate, to assist in providing even force. I could see an arbor press splitting a piece of 3x8x? with enough force to go through that much leather. Sounds like an awesome project but I don't have the right tools or time to take on making my own dies. I needed some info of what to look for when purchasing a die. Good idea on the punches though Chauncey! It seems like the punches are the priciest part of having my die made. If I can find them cheaper I could knock a bit down on the price when I go to have it done. E: gently caress it seems my quotes go from 45$ to 500$ when I add the hole punches. Anybody have any alternate solutions? I have a total 52 punches I would like in the die. I wanted to just press this die down and have a sewable rectangle. Right now I do the punches by hand, and while it's not a huge deal, when I have 1000 orders to do it can be a pain in the rear end and hand.. Not to mention I didn't really want to invest any money into this whole press idea without it doing the holes for me too. philkop fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 08:00
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I can see why the whole punches would jack up the price. Much more complexity in the fabrication. 500/10=50, should pay for itself in no time! If you don't want to spend the time making a machine, seems like a no-brainer for me.
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Apr 4, 2013 13:56
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:I can see why the whole punches would jack up the price. Much more complexity in the fabrication. 500/10=50, should pay for itself in no time! If you don't want to spend the time making a machine, seems like a no-brainer for me. Totally true about it paying itself off.... IF... I can get at least 1000 wallets out of it. I'm optimistic because my leather is pretty thin. Anybody here make dies? Or have personal experience with a good place? Texas dies seems to be a big one
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Apr 4, 2013 16:05
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TIG welding question: What would happen if I used stainless filler rod on non-stainless metal? I need to repair my eyeglasses and I've had very bad luck fixing glasses like this with JBweld, tape or heat shrink tubing. Worst case, I am due to get new glasses anyway and I have safety glasses I can use until then.
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Apr 4, 2013 19:35
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philkop posted:Totally true about it paying itself off.... IF... I can get at least 1000 wallets out of it. I'm optimistic because my leather is pretty thin. Fire Storm posted:TIG welding question: What would happen if I used stainless filler rod on non-stainless metal?
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Apr 4, 2013 20:09
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Fire Storm posted:TIG welding question: What would happen if I used stainless filler rod on non-stainless metal? I need to repair my eyeglasses and I've had very bad luck fixing glasses like this with JBweld, tape or heat shrink tubing. Worst case, I am due to get new glasses anyway and I have safety glasses I can use until then. Do you know what the metal is, though? You're going to be making such a tiny weld, it can't be too expensive to just buy a little bit of appropriate wire or something.
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Apr 4, 2013 21:27
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Fire Storm posted:TIG welding question: What would happen if I used stainless filler rod on non-stainless metal? I need to repair my eyeglasses and I've had very bad luck fixing glasses like this with JBweld, tape or heat shrink tubing. Worst case, I am due to get new glasses anyway and I have safety glasses I can use until then. Assuming it's metallic you'll probably be able to goop it together, but use extremely low amperage. I've never welded anything so thin as that so I would say start with like 10amps and go from there. Also if they're aluminum it's going to be the biggest problem because aluminum is dumb, antisocial and doesn't play well with other metals. So I wanted to share this 9018 work I did today. Been slugging it out with the dang stuff for two weeks straight of non stop rod burning. This is a horizontal pipe about 14" diameter 2.5" wall thickness. Welded with 5/32" 9018 B3 at about 180 amps with a 450f preheat.  But I feel like its always the same thing I'm sharing! You guys must be bored of "Hey guys look at this pipe I did!" Is there anything around the powerhouse I could take pictures of that maybe you guys would want to see? Maybe some of the preheat/postweld coils and setups they use? E: That one dang spatter.... SmokeyXIII fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Apr 5, 2013 |
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Apr 5, 2013 03:38
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SmokeyXIII posted:This is a horizontal pipe about 14" diameter 2.5" wall thickness. Welded with 5/32" 9018 B3 at about 180 amps with a 450f preheat. SmokeyXIII posted:But I feel like its always the same thing I'm sharing! You guys must be bored of "Hey guys look at this pipe I did!" Is there anything around the powerhouse I could take pictures of that maybe you guys would want to see? Maybe some of the preheat/postweld coils and setups they use? Pics of the fitting process and heat treating process with some explanation would certainly be awesome. Perhaps even some pics of what is attached to the pipe if possible. Don't forget welding machines and interesting tools or equipment.
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Apr 5, 2013 04:39
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:That is some drat sexy welding, sir. That pipe brings steam from a zillion tubes in the boiler to the turbine. Its literally the most critical pipe in the plant. There would be so many dead people if it were to blow out under load, which would be so so unlikely due to the NDE they do on the weld. X Ray, ultrasound, fluorescent magnetic particle and a dye penetrant exam. There is about a dozen 3 ton come a longs and I think two or three big chain falls as well involved in the rigging process. It was magnetized so badly before welding you could stick a ballpeen hammer off the side of the pipe . To remove the magnetism you wrap a full length of cable around the pipe tightly coiled, hook it up to your welder, and stuff a tungsten into a stick stinger crank the machine to 450 amps and zap the pipe for about 20 seconds or until your tungsten explodes. If it made it worse change polarity and do it again. They machine the bevel for us because its so big and critical the fit up generally goes well, especially with all that rigging. I think they are doing a post weld heat treatment tomorrow, I'll take a picture of all that if I can. SmokeyXIII fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Apr 5, 2013 |
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Apr 5, 2013 04:54
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SmokeyXIII posted:That pipe brings steam from a zillion tubes in the boiler to the turbine. Its literally the most critical pipe in the plant. There would be so many dead people if it were to blow out under load, which would be so so unlikely due to the NDE they do on the weld. X Ray, ultrasound, fluorescent magnetic particle and a dye penetrant exam. There is part of me that is very envious that you are doing such a critical weld. That was really my goal when I decided to try welding out for a career. I like to think I would have made it there given a different set of circumstances. I hope you get to retire early and healthy and teach welding students how to do the same thing.  And yes, superheated steam (I assume it's superheated at that stage) is some mind blowingly loving powerful and dangerous poo poo. The only way you could make this more serious is if it was in a nuclear power plant.
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Apr 5, 2013 05:11
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:There is part of me that is very envious that you are doing such a critical weld. That was really my goal when I decided to try welding out for a career. I like to think I would have made it there given a different set of circumstances. I hope you get to retire early and healthy and teach welding students how to do the same thing. Oh yes very super heated. I think they said if it ruptured the steam would displace the oxygen in the building in 20 seconds. So if you survived the explosion, and the 1200° steam, there would unfortunately not be air to breathe.
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Apr 5, 2013 05:18
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SmokeyXIII posted:There is about a dozen 3 ton come a longs and I think two or three big chain falls as well involved in the rigging process. It was magnetized so badly before welding you could stick a ballpeen hammer off the side of the pipe . To remove the magnetism you wrap a full length of cable around the pipe tightly coiled, hook it up to your welder, and stuff a tungsten into a stick stinger crank the machine to 450 amps and zap the pipe for about 20 seconds or until your tungsten explodes. If it made it worse change polarity and do it again. That's cool as poo poo, what's going on, degaussing or something else?
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Apr 5, 2013 05:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's cool as poo poo, what's going on, degaussing or something else? Exactly. If we remember basic electricity any conductor with a current running through it has a magnetic field. When we run an AC current through an electromagnet the magnetic north and south poles change along with the sinusoidal effect of the AC going from positive to negative. This scrambles the magnetic "domains" in the steel making it loose it's magnetism. This is a good way to erase hard drives, or gently caress up mechanical watches, as well. Edit: But yeah Smokey, this is exactly the type of stuff we love to hear about! Metalworking is one of the more "industrial" hobbies there is, and I think along with metalworking as hobby you love hearing about big industrial crap. I still wouldn't change in my rail care repair experience for anything despite my career didn't go in that direction. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Apr 5, 2013 |
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Apr 5, 2013 05:54
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Poor man's DRO for a lathe, or whatever. http://users.tpg.com.au/agnet/microdro.html
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Apr 5, 2013 06:51
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Poor man's DRO for a lathe, or whatever. I did something similar in a pinch once: 
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Apr 5, 2013 12:26
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SmokeyXIII posted:
Nah, still love seeing it. But would also like to learn more about pre and post heating. I primarily weld aluminum so I'm more interested in stuff like that but it's all fascinating.
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Apr 5, 2013 23:06
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:You can do this, no big deal assuming the "non-stainless metal" is steel (try a magnet), especially with eye glasses, it's not like you are looking for a high tensile strength. Sagebrush posted:Do you know what the metal is, though? You're going to be making such a tiny weld, it can't be too expensive to just buy a little bit of appropriate wire or something. SmokeyXIII posted:Assuming it's metallic you'll probably be able to goop it together, but use extremely low amperage. I've never welded anything so thin as that so I would say start with like 10amps and go from there. Also if they're aluminum it's going to be the biggest problem because aluminum is dumb, antisocial and doesn't play well with other metals. The "metal" is just listed as "metal" on every page I can find for the frames. I was just thinking stainless so I don't have to worry about rust at all. Stupid idea? I have a few different bundles of filler rod and was trying to justify getting some stainless rod.
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Apr 5, 2013 23:53
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I decided to setup a couple saw horses, a pallet, and some cardboard in my basement and move the painting operation. I got the parts I dropped off at the blaster today and have given them the first coat of paint. The pedestal covers will take a few days since I'm doing two coats and it has two sides, they are too heavy to hang. The other hanging parts are the headstock covers and gear guards, as well as the "thingy" that holds the start/stop switch. I'll probably put some citristrip on the saddle and prepare it for paint tonight as well. 
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Apr 6, 2013 00:26
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Something spooky happened to me today. I sawed some German silver segments up, to draw beads on and hammer down and drill the beaded-out portions to make a weird kinda chain. Anyways, I grabbed what I thought was one of those segments- it was black, but so is anything cuprous annealed- and I hit it with the torch til it glowed. I took the torch off it, and it started glowing brighter, and sustaining the glow, like a goddamn fuel rod, and then it started warping and distorting and writhing on the firebrick. As far as I can tell, I must have picked up a ferrocerium rod from a broken lighter that was on my desk, that happens to look a fair bit like the firescaled German silver bits I was workin' on.  Burnt segment on left, clean new one on the right, adorned with charming blanket-fuzz I forgot to dust off. As an aside- I wasn't using a respirator or anything at the time beyond a dust mask; are there any associated risks with burning rare earth metals? I know they're generally of a low toxicity, and absolutely no smoke or fume was created (that I noticed) and I'm completely fine in every way, it's just, you know, something of a wildcard you never have to consider. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 01:08
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Cerium, Lanthanum and Neodymium aren't terribly dangerous unless you're mining the stuff or otherwise working with it as an occupation. You were dealing with an absolutely tiny amount, TIG welders the world over are grinding and grounding out tungsten electrodes without masks and getting far more exposure than a little piece of lighter mischmetal. I wouldn't want to burn a couple dozen big ferrocerium/mischmetal firestarters with a torch, but I really wouldn't worry about a little chunk if I were you.
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Apr 6, 2013 01:50
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I have some more to show off from my class. I know this stuff is technically simple, but I figured it would be nice to show what kind of things a beginner can make with nearly no experience: This is a centered loop on some 3/8" rod. The other end is just a poker:  Here is a door pull mounted out on my mom's barn.  I got the shiny finish by going over the piece with a brass brush. It is a nice simple way of giving a more fancy look than just black iron. And yes, that is a big chunk of fire scale I left at the tip of that. That poo poo can be a pain to get off.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:43
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Hypnolobster posted:Cerium, Lanthanum and Neodymium aren't terribly dangerous unless you're mining the stuff or otherwise working with it as an occupation. After a quick Google I wasn't inclined to be too worried, I was mostly just spooked by the whole "what I thought was bog-ol copper-nickel alloy glow and physically warp itself with apparently-infernal energies" factor.
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Apr 6, 2013 04:43
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Turned over the pedestal covers and got a first coat on their back sides. I'll put a 2nd coat of light grey on their backs tomorrow, when that dries I'll flip them over, battleship grey up the fronts and they will be finished. Put a 2nd coat on all the headstock covers and guards, as well as the start/stop switch holder. Got the saddle cleaned up and put a first coat of paint on it and the part that clamps the rear of the saddle down to the bed. 
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Apr 7, 2013 02:30
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Just made this scratch awl for scoring marks in wood out of an old file because i cant stop loosing pencils. It's nothing to look at, but it only too 15 minutes with the bench grinder / sandpaper and it is really comfortable to hold with the grip of the file.  
Gen. Specific fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 07:20
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The projects everyone are working on are really cool, and beyond anything that I've tried before. As someone who works within a shop I don't spend a lot of time acquiring and fixing up new tools. Slung Blade, I'd love to see what you make with that fly press. Do you have dies for it yet? I spent last weekend at California Blacksmithing Association's Spring Conference. I will try to upload those pictures tonight. I spent a lot of time working on my swing. Mark Aspery, who is considered the king of blacksmiths, got me to loosen up on my death grip and only grip at the end of the swing to whip the hammer down. It's an incredible amount of power. It requires a thinner handle, especially if you are small like me. But it becomes easier to hold the hammer further back. The control is tricky at first but well worth it. I also got yelled at by Toby Hickmann. Everyone does. It was a great time, once I got over everyone assuming that I didn't know the first thing about blacksmithing and just started socializing. Here is a photo someone sent to me, practicing my swing  I'm also teaching my first blacksmithing class today. I'm very excited and pretty nervous.
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Apr 8, 2013 16:18
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Did not get as much done this weekend as I wanted to. Sunday afternoon I came down with a case of the common cold. Nevertheless I just finished putting the last coat of paint on the pedestal covers and the underdrive tensioner handle. The saddle and it's rear bed clamp are dry. The headstock covers and guards are in place as well. All thats' really left is the apron, crossfeed, gearbox/leadscrew, and the tailstock!   
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Apr 8, 2013 20:14
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Anvil shooting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KIqOmeHCU4&feature=youtu.be
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Apr 9, 2013 00:34
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I did not expect it to go that high, but I guess it makes sense since they're designed to return energy. Guess I need a second anvil now.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:56
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ArtistCeleste posted:The projects everyone are working on are really cool, and beyond anything that I've tried before. As someone who works within a shop I don't spend a lot of time acquiring and fixing up new tools. Slung Blade, I'd love to see what you make with that fly press. Do you have dies for it yet? ArtistCeleste, do you live in california or are you just there temporarily ? I live in Western NY and I've been looking around for some blacksmithing classes sometime during the summer. If you or anyone you know does classes within a few hours of here I'd be very interested. I know Thak does classes, but the next one I can make it to is in August. I want to expand my skills and learn from someone who knows what they are doing sooner in my hobbying, so I can make cooler stuff!
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Apr 9, 2013 05:22
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I don't. Check the ABANA website. And possibly consider becoming an ABANA member. I'm only a CBA member, but the smithy gets ABANA's magazine. Really great projects in there. BTW, I'm going to be making a hammer. 2.5- 2 3/4lbs. Large flat face on one side, round on the other. Anyone have suggestions or comments about shape or type of steel? ArtistCeleste fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 16:55
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Here is my obligatory hey I found forge and furnace stuff at Hack a Day again post. http://hackaday.com/2013/04/04/melting-metal-with-a-diy-foundry-furnace/#more-97325 The changes he makes to his furnace from one video to the next are pretty astounding. The amount of material he can turn into ingots in short work is pretty cool too.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:05
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Uncle Enzo posted:ArtistCeleste, do you live in california or are you just there temporarily ? I live in Western NY and I've been looking around for some blacksmithing classes sometime during the summer. If you or anyone you know does classes within a few hours of here I'd be very interested. I know Thak does classes, but the next one I can make it to is in August. I want to expand my skills and learn from someone who knows what they are doing sooner in my hobbying, so I can make cooler stuff! I took my first weekend course with the dude who runs Thak, he's real cool. Left the coal scoop and punch I made there by accident, though 
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Apr 9, 2013 20:59
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ArtistCeleste posted:BTW, I'm going to be making a hammer. 2.5- 2 3/4lbs. Large flat face on one side, round on the other. Anyone have suggestions or comments about shape or type of steel? I would recommend using O1 steel for the hammer. Just bear in mind that you have to forge it HOT and oil quench to harden. Water will crack O1 in a thick piece like a hammer head if it cools too fast. Used motor oil will work just fine.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:22
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Celeste: not yet, it's been snowing again the last couple weeks so I've not had the heart to get outside and do something. I still need to weld on some more stuff to the table before I use it  CopperHound: man, that looks really nice. Good job.
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Apr 14, 2013 04:18
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