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InitialDave posted:Sage advice Thanks very much, I think you're probably right. I've had good luck with the Halfords pro tools, the 150 piece one practically lives in the back of my LR and has seen a lot of use. I did have a little look at the cabinets a while ago but wasn't impressed with them. I've used shadowboard here and there but for some reason I nearly always end up with a lovely painted board and no / few tools actually on it.
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Mar 22, 2013 22:22
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Hey, check this out, an adaptor for a trolley jack to let you jack up an axle with an offset diff (like most 4x4 front axles and quite a few rear ones) without being way off the centreline: http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=16291&PromotionID=90369&PromotionTitleID=486 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYXXs9RpGNM Bit much for what it is, but you could knock up your own pretty easily, especially as it wouldn't need to be adjustable.
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Mar 23, 2013 15:21
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Wow that is nice--I hope HF has a cheap version in the future.
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Mar 23, 2013 22:17
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Dear thread, please educate me on rivets, and the riveting thereof. I need to replace the bits that grip the laces on my snowboard boots, and they are riveted in. Burton sent me replacements, and some semi-tubular rivets to attach them. I've used pop rivets in the past, is there a simple, cheap tool like the pop-rivet gun to rivet these semi-tubular rivets? I'm seeing big industrial looking things that are all over $100.
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Mar 23, 2013 23:56
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Something like a rivet squeezer? http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/menus/to/rivet_1squeezers.html Or could you just get the dies and hammer them over?
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Mar 24, 2013 00:24
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I just bought one of these: http://www.maxidas.com/ So far, all I can say is it takes forever to update. You'd think for the price it would have a faster wifi adapter in it. I could always pull the SD card and update it in my laptop, but 
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Mar 26, 2013 01:24
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Anyone have a suggestion for a good socket storage solution that can travel (preferably a spring-peg platter or a pegbox rather than strips)?
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 04:26
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lolricecamrylol posted:I just bought one of these: http://www.maxidas.com/ Do you have a compatible vehicle list? If its good for Range Rovers, (specifically the P38's and L322's), it would be nice to have a tool for the E60 as well. But I also have a dumb plan to go all Rover here in the near future.
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Mar 26, 2013 19:36
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Splizwarf posted:Anyone have a suggestion for a good socket storage solution that can travel (preferably a spring-peg platter or a pegbox rather than strips)? What kind of sockets and how many of them is kind of important to know but I use this for my impacts.  The middle part is a magnet so they stick to it from both sides. Pretty nifty. I think they are like 15 - 20 bucks at Sears.
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Mar 27, 2013 03:05
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^ Was literally going to post those. I have 6 of those bad boys, 2 for 1/4 inch metric and standard, 2 for 3/8ths, and 2 for 1/2 inch. They are a god send. You can carry the entire thing without any of the sockets falling off, you can easily take them off the magnets, and the BEST part is, the bottom of the trays have a strong magnet strip so you can slap them on the side of your toolbox, or, wait for it....to the VERY CAR YOU ARE WORKING ON. Plus I have a drawer in my box with all 6 of them lined up neatly. It just looks nice.
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Mar 27, 2013 06:22
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After dealing with my lovely craftsman ratchets for a year I decided to finally pony up and buy some nice flex-head Snapon ratchets. I wish I hadn't waited so long. They were worth every penny. 1/4" drive flexhead 8.25" long  3/8" drive flexhead 13.7" long 
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Mar 28, 2013 20:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Do you have a compatible vehicle list? http://www.maxidas.com/coverage/index.aspx?page=1 If you go to that link and page over to find Land Rover, then click on the logo it will bring up a compatible vehicle list. Seriously though, if it has a diagnostic port it should have full dealer-level capabilities and output controls. I've been playing around with it the past couple of days and it really is awesome, especially for the price. Yes, it seems like a lot (I paid $1800 to get a legit unit, some of the ones available online are the Chinese versions and cannot be updated in the U.S.) but compared to buying the next most capable unit (the Snap-On Verus PRO (about $10k) or buying each dealer scan-tool separately, it is one hell of a bargain. Most people on here wont be able to justify the price, but those of us that do this for a living really can appreciate the value of a tool like this.
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Mar 28, 2013 22:49
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Brain Issues posted:After dealing with my lovely craftsman ratchets for a year I decided to finally pony up and buy some nice flex-head Snapon ratchets. I wish I hadn't waited so long. They were worth every penny. Got the same but I stuck with a hard plastic handle. Love every second I use them. But you have opened up pandoras box my friend....
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Mar 28, 2013 22:53
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If anyone needs drill bits, there's an eBay seller who is selling sets of Norseman bits for cheap. He's accepting offers of $50 per set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171014517480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321096858625?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 The ones with the 3 flats on them are HSS, the round shanks are Moly bits that are supposed to be really good for harder materials like Stainless. I bought both sets... $100 for two sets of bits that normally sell for $100 each.
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Mar 29, 2013 00:19
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lolricecamrylol posted:Most people on here wont be able to justify the price, but those of us that do this for a living really can appreciate the value of a tool like this. If your dealing with specialty vehicles, its actually quite worth the price to have 1 tool to do all the work. Seeing how I really do like odd ball vehicles, this would be worth it. I can easily sell my Hawekeye Scan tool for rovers and purchase this, work for both my BMW and Rover. And seeing how I would eventually like to purchase a Jaguar later down the road, a tool that can do all the odd ball cars I love so much, it would be worth it for me.
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Mar 29, 2013 16:23
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BrokenKnucklez posted:If your dealing with specialty vehicles, its actually quite worth the price to have 1 tool to do all the work. I reprogrammed some keys for a Chrysler Town and Country with it today. It was so sweet telling my boss "No, we don't need to send it to the dealer. I can do it here  "
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Mar 30, 2013 01:27
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I need a proper timing strobe. I'm going to lose a hand if I get too close to the crank pulley on the Fairlane. What a pain in the rear end. Maybe one will come up cheap on eBay or something.
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Mar 30, 2013 01:55
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Brits! Halfords have their usual Easter offers on, and one of these is the 150pc socket and spanner set for 80 instead of 200. If you need some hand tools, or just think you might in the future, I strongly urge you to grab one!
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Apr 1, 2013 14:38
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sharkytm posted:If anyone needs drill bits, there's an eBay seller who is selling sets of Norseman bits for cheap. He's accepting offers of $50 per set. All out of the Moly bits 
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Apr 1, 2013 19:31
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InitialDave posted:Brits! Halfords have their usual Easter offers on, and one of these is the 150pc socket and spanner set for 80 instead of 200. If you need some hand tools, or just think you might in the future, I strongly urge you to grab one! God drat, converted to the lovely dollar to pound rate, its still a god drat good bargain for the amount of stuff in there.
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Apr 1, 2013 19:38
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General_Failure posted:I need a proper timing strobe. I'm going to lose a hand if I get too close to the crank pulley on the Fairlane. What a pain in the rear end. Maybe one will come up cheap on eBay or something. Self quoting! This weekend I bought an inductive timing light on eBay. From the U.K. $30 including postage. Beats the pants off prices here. I'm still not really sure how to safely do the timing given the way the serpentine belt runs but it's a massive step in the right direction. My inline light didn't put out enough light to do the job at any distance.
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Apr 1, 2013 20:50
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InitialDave posted:Brits! Halfords have their usual Easter offers on, and one of these is the 150pc socket and spanner set for 80 instead of 200. If you need some hand tools, or just think you might in the future, I strongly urge you to grab one! Halfords tools are great; they will honour the lifetime guarantee too! It is also incredibly easy to get a trade card there for another ~20% off tools.
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Apr 2, 2013 10:47
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There is a dangerous game brewing in the shop called make someone buy something stupid when the tool guys come. The rules are straight forward. You find something the tool guy has on special that your buddy has been wanting for a while and call him a pathetic little bitch until he buys it. Today the Matco guy came and I fell victim to these  and a little flash light. Unfazed I countered by demanding my buddy replace his old and worn air ratchet with a new one after all he only wanted was a 12 dollar cover. My grand total tool debt so far is like $1300 while he is sitting with a tad under 2000 so Im winning.
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Apr 3, 2013 00:42
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I need a recommendation on a mig welder. So far I'm seriously considering the Lincoln Easymig 140. But as I now reside in Windsor ON, prices are considerably higher than the US. I think I'll still be better off to buy a welder in Detroit even if I have to pay taxes coming back over. I need something that runs on 115v. It will be used for light duty stuff welding on thin gauge steel. I did check out Princess Auto today. I'll be making many trips there for the next few years that we are here.
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Apr 6, 2013 02:43
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bung posted:I need a recommendation on a mig welder. So far I'm seriously considering the Lincoln Easymig 140. But as I now reside in Windsor ON, prices are considerably higher than the US. I think I'll still be better off to buy a welder in Detroit even if I have to pay taxes coming back over. I need something that runs on 115v. It will be used for light duty stuff welding on thin gauge steel. With MIGs you get what you pay for. I won't recommend mine to you because it's Australian made including the components. Bloody good welder though. It was the best one I could find before needing to step up to 415v three phase. As it is this one is meant to be hardwired into its own circuit but the manufacturer nicely includes a plug on the end labelled "for testing purposes only". You may want to hunt for a good condition, good quality used one. Mine cost over $1000 new but other offerings less than that had no aftermarket support and were essentially rebadged Chinese specials. Do your homework, and lots of it.
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Apr 6, 2013 02:50
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Preoptopus posted:There is a dangerous game brewing in the shop called make someone buy something stupid when the tool guys come. This is horrifying. And yet, pretty funny.
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Apr 6, 2013 02:50
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Might be a dumb question, but I'm building a house and I want an outlet in the garage for a compressor and a welder. How many volts does it need to be? I see things listed as 220/230/240, etc. Is it all the same thing or do I need to pick one and buy all my equipment to that standard?
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Apr 6, 2013 03:06
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I just went through and gave the 3/4" tools I picked up today a quick spraydown with inox. They look to have some standing water damage and will need a wire brush job but I wanted to neutralize the rust first. They seem to be a mixture of SEK, Sidchrome and Minimax. I really can't complain. There's easily $500 worth of tools there. 3/4" stuff is stupidly expensive here in the land of Oz.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:15
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kmcormick9 posted:Might be a dumb question, but I'm building a house and I want an outlet in the garage for a compressor and a welder. How many volts does it need to be? I see things listed as 220/230/240, etc. Is it all the same thing or do I need to pick one and buy all my equipment to that standard? They're mostly all talking about the same thing. Same as 110, 115, 117, 120, and 125 are all the same thing - just made in different eras and/or some are intended for industrial areas, others for residential, etc. They will all work in the same circuit. 220 = double 110 230 = double 115 240 = double 120 Basically it's just a slightly varying standard, AC line voltage is never really constant. The easiest way to get what you want is to spec an electric dryer outlet (30 amp, 220/230/240/250 volt) or electric range outlet (50 amp, same voltage, w/ neutral) where you want it in the garage.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:18
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bung posted:I need a recommendation on a mig welder. So far I'm seriously considering the Lincoln Easymig 140. But as I now reside in Windsor ON, prices are considerably higher than the US. I think I'll still be better off to buy a welder in Detroit even if I have to pay taxes coming back over. I need something that runs on 115v. It will be used for light duty stuff welding on thin gauge steel. Ive got a Lincoln 180C and its a fantastic MIG. Cost me about $1200 australian and i cannot fault it running solid wire and gas
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Apr 6, 2013 04:47
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Ferremit posted:Ive got a Lincoln 180C and its a fantastic MIG. Cost me about $1200 australian and i cannot fault it running solid wire and gas I didn't even know we could get hold of Lincolns here. I looked around and came up blank. Much love for my Weldmaster though. I talked to the people in the know at the factory directly do discover whether it was what I was after. Funny thing is the product listing looks different to mine. I think mine was an early first production run one. Still needs a trolley. That copper transformer and big reel is a killer.
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Apr 6, 2013 10:13
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kastein posted:They're mostly all talking about the same thing. Same as 110, 115, 117, 120, and 125 are all the same thing - just made in different eras and/or some are intended for industrial areas, others for residential, etc. They will all work in the same circuit. Which would you recommend for using standard plugs that come on the equipment?
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Apr 6, 2013 17:24
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kmcormick9 posted:Which would you recommend for using standard plugs that come on the equipment? That depends on the equipment. There isn't even really a "standard" dryer outlet (3 prong or 4 prong L14-30s are the two most popular). If you don't want to cut cords off, check what plug it comes with and get the appropriate receptacle. I typically use twist-locks for everything (large) and cut off whatever the equipment came with.
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Apr 6, 2013 19:32
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Same. I generally want to be able to move stuff further than the cord will reach though, so I'd just make an extension cord with the right gauge cable and the required plug and socket to make things work. I have a 220/110 4 prong twistlok on the outside wall of my house for the welder, but anything works really, especially if it's in an enclosed, weatherproof location. PS: Motronic, I know you've mentioned being a building inspector in the past. What's your take on AFCI or GFCI requirement for a garage or outside 220 outlet? Right now I'm probably not compliant, I have a regular breaker feeding it because I couldn't find a GFCI 30A dual gang breaker for less than $texas that would fit my panel, and I'm not sure a welder would even go very well with a GFCI breaker anyways.
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Apr 6, 2013 19:45
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kastein posted:PS: Motronic, I know you've mentioned being a building inspector in the past. What's your take on AFCI or GFCI requirement for a garage or outside 220 outlet? Right now I'm probably not compliant, I have a regular breaker feeding it because I couldn't find a GFCI 30A dual gang breaker for less than $texas that would fit my panel, and I'm not sure a welder would even go very well with a GFCI breaker anyways. Arc fault is only required in bedrooms and would likely be problematic when being used for garage type equipment. Ground fault should be on all 120v outlets in your garage. 220v requires neither by code. The only reason you found a 30A GFCI is because they are required on hot tub and pool heaters. Don't waste your money. Sure, it's safer. But it's not required by code and only necessary if you are a complete moron around electrical devices in the garage. Edit: and I'm talking about NEC/I-codes here. Your mileage my vary, but most municipalities/states are using the I-codes now (which reference the NEC) and even if they aren't their own codes reference the NEC anyway. Motronic fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 19:51
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Excellent, that's what I was leaning towards but wasn't sure what the official take on 220 was. I think you MIGHT be incorrect (at least on NEC 11 and later - iirc it's changed, but many municipalities haven't started using it and mine is probably among them) about AFCI only being required in bedrooms, there's a lot of debate about that online and I couldn't determine for sure which way it was - some people say living rooms, halls, dining rooms, etc need it as well, and that basically everything in a modern house should be either AFCI or GFCI unless it's running a smoke/CO alarm or has some other very good reason not to be. Basically, I am not sure. And yeah, GFCI for everything in bathrooms, kitchens, basements, garages, and outside areas is my understanding.
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Apr 6, 2013 19:55
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kastein posted:I think you MIGHT be incorrect (at least on NEC 11 and later - iirc it's changed, but many municipalities haven't started using it and mine is probably among them) about AFCI only being required in bedrooms, there's a lot of debate about that online and I couldn't determine for sure which way it was Yeah, my code knowledge is 2 or 3 years out of date. I know that a change was coming down the pipeline that was phrased as "living spaces", and everyone was complaining that it was ambiguous. Good to know they didn't bother correcting it even after asking for and receiving review from those of us out in the field. That's pretty normal. ANyway, to add to this.....if you tried to use an arc welder on a GFCI outlet I can guarantee you wouldn't get anywhere. Even GMAW/FCAW likes to trip GFCIs occasionally (seemingly depending on settings and how you get the arc started) so I've wired a non GFCI outlet just for my little 120v welder. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 19:58
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When it comes to multimeters does splurging on an expensive one really matter? As long as it works I don't see the purpose.
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Apr 6, 2013 20:22
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When working in a car, whatever works is probably good enough. You'll want an expensive one when exact and consistent readings matter, but in a car, "is it hooked up" and "is this getting 12-14 V" are generally all you care about. Get something with a continuity tester, though. Makes life easier.
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Apr 6, 2013 20:58
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VanNuys posted:When it comes to multimeters does splurging on an expensive one really matter? As long as it works I don't see the purpose.
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Apr 6, 2013 21:00
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