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alnilam posted:She's ... Considering getting this 1981 Honda 650 Having recently picked up and wrenched on a CB650Z, which is a sister model, I think it wouldn't be a *terrible* first real bike. Not too heavy, pretty easy to wrench on (especially for a Honda, in my limited experience of Honda stuff). There are probably more suitable bikes in the same style though, the Viragos and Kawasaki W650 spring to mind. If it's all you can find locally then it will probably do fine. Bear in mind that it's not an 80s bike, it's a 70s bike that was still being made in the 80s.
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Apr 5, 2013 10:50
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Pham Nuwen posted:So if my girlfriend and I wanted to go to Europe, get some motorcycles, and tour through various countries, what should we look for? It seems like bikes are pretty expensive to rent; if I wanted to get a pair of bikes for a whole month, are there any better options? Borrowing from goons? Someone posted about an ADV member that acts as a proxy for purchasing bikes in Ireland for exactly this. He does all the registering, insurance, and basecamp-related stuff needed before you even get there I believe, and then he buys the bikes back from you when you're done. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=868979
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Apr 5, 2013 14:39
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2010 Bonneville Sunday: bust out bike for the first time this year. Starts right up. Ride it for 20min. Park, nothing left on. Monday: acknowledges the key (everything turns on) but trying to start has the ignition click once then nothing (no turning over). I take out the battery 12.4v. Put it on charger. Friday: take battery off, 14.1v or so. Pop it in, headlight turns on but noooothing else. Definitely no ignition click. Take it out and its at 13.0v. This is the original battery if that matters, but its probably just replacement time, right? Please god tell me this sounds like "replace the battery and you're fine." (Probably)
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Apr 6, 2013 00:29
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Sounds to me like battery is rooted.
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Apr 6, 2013 00:38
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ChiTownEddie posted:2010 Bonneville Yup, battery is hosed. The voltage is just the surface charge. Try jump-starting or bump-starting the bike and check the charging voltage to make sure the bike hasn't killed the battery soemhow.
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Apr 6, 2013 00:40
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If it's a '10 Bonnie that battery is probably four years old and that's a decent lifetime for a bike battery, especially if it sees freezing cold in the winters. Batteries seem to have a habit of giving one last gasp of life at winter's end before shuffling off this mortal coil.
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Apr 6, 2013 00:45
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Thanks guys. Guess I'm heading back tomorrow to buy a new battery!
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Apr 6, 2013 02:17
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Spend a few extra bucks and get an AGM. They're totally worth it.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:04
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ChiTownEddie posted:2010 Bonneville Sounds like something else. The fully charged resting voltage for bike batteries is about 12.7V. After being off the charger a few hours it should drop down to this voltage. The fact it still read 12.4 after being stored means there's no shorted cells. Work all your brake/clutch/kickstand switches a few times. If any of them is malfunctioning it can cause what you are describing. obso fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 04:22
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Kill switch/kickstand switch/clutch switch/is it in neutral? Doesn't sound like the battery to me either, those readings are fine unless you're getting some crazy drop when you hit the starter (somewhere well below 10v).
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Apr 6, 2013 04:51
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It's very possible for the resting voltage to be fine, but for the battery to be unable to support much current anymore. Having a good resting voltage only requires all components to be present at the right concentration. Pulling good current, however, requires good surface structure of the lead/lead sulfate electrodes.
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Apr 6, 2013 06:12
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i.e., test the cranking voltage
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Apr 6, 2013 14:13
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If the starter spins at all that rules out all of those interlocks. At least on a Bonnie. (That's assuming they're not just flaky, which a good cycling might or might not clear up, but it doesn't sound like an intermittent fault.) The battery I just replaced put out almost identical numbers, but when cranking, voltage was dropping into the 6's.
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Apr 6, 2013 16:54
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So I'm thinking of kicking off a project that is much more work that it is likely worth but first I need to know if it's possible so I have a few questions. 1. Is it possible to build the hell out of a <50cc engine(crank, cams, ect.)? 2. Do they make <50cc 2-stroke engines? 3. Can you turbo them? 4. Supercharge? 5. Both? 6. Nitrous? 7. What kind of a frame would support this yet still keep the bike leaning towards bicycle-sized? edit: Changed the word 'practical' to 'possible'
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Apr 6, 2013 22:23
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1. Yes 2. Yes 3. Yes 4. Yes 5. Sure, why not 6. Yes 7. Something custom built, probably, but you could get a good head start on it with a 49cc moped
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Apr 6, 2013 22:32
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Many scooters have <50cc two-strokes. Scooters are often bicycle-sized (not sure if you're thinking of a moped.) Honda Ruckuses aren't two-strokes but I've seen a few turbo'd. The size / weight if a nitrous bottle & paraphernalia would probably more than cancel out any power gains and I really don't know what nitrous does to a two-stroke (other than the obvious "make it explode.") Similarly the power drain of a supercharger on a <50cc engine seems like it'd be more than any boost advantage.
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Apr 6, 2013 22:36
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BaKESAL3 posted:So I'm thinking of kicking off a project that is much more work that it is likely worth but first I need to know if it's possible so I have a few questions. There are some very quick 50cc scooters out there. Several Honda Ruckus guys have turbocharged their 4-stroke 50cc motors, but 2-strokes make it easy. 2-stroke 50cc scooters (Zumas etc) with bigger carbs, expansion pipes, cranks, cylinder kits (to 70cc+), porting, etc can easily be taken well past 60mph. They're small, but not bicycle-sized. Ruckuses weigh around 165lbs I think, as do 2-stroke Vinos. I believe some mopeds (50cc 2-strokes) can also be built to 60mph or more in the same way scooters can and weigh less and are obviously much closer to bicycles. There's a guy here in Seattle that has a scooter motor (I think) grafted onto a Honda Urban Express, to which he's added disk brakes, fancy downhill MTB forks, and other things. It's rad and weighs nothing.
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Apr 6, 2013 22:45
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Thanks guys and especially Gay Nudest Dad for the info, This is the type of project I'm looking to take on, and I was indeed thinking of a moped. That's a bummer about the supercharger and the nitrous but those were more secondary to slapping a turbo on it. @Sagebrush/Anyone really: You're right, starting with a 50cc moped is the logical starting place. does anyone know if the engine putting out more power than the moped's frame was designed for would create any kind of problems down the road? Common sense says it can but it seems worth asking. BaKESAL3 fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 23:13
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BaKESAL3 posted:Thanks guys and especially Gay Nudest Dad for the info, Probably, especially since most worthwhile mopeds are 35 years old. It's not uncommon to weld on additional frame reinforcements. I think the first thing you'd run into is inadequate brakes and suspension, though I bet the community has figured that out, too. I'd head over to the moped thread to start.
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Apr 6, 2013 23:22
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:There are some very quick 50cc scooters out there. Several Honda Ruckus guys have turbocharged their 4-stroke 50cc motors, but 2-strokes make it easy. 2-stroke 50cc scooters (Zumas etc) with bigger carbs, expansion pipes, cranks, cylinder kits (to 70cc+), porting, etc can easily be taken well past 60mph. They're small, but not bicycle-sized. Ruckuses weigh around 165lbs I think, as do 2-stroke Vinos. Would a turbo work on a 2-stroke? Wouldn't it play merry hell with the scavenging? I'd love to see a supercharged 2-stroke though, but I don't know if you could make it light enough to be worth it.
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Apr 6, 2013 23:32
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I've got a 50mph moped. It's a completely sane project. My moped is 98 pounds I think. Which makes it a whole lot lighter than most scooters. The big wheels also handle bumps better. Turbocharging a 2 stroke leads to a whole bunch of funny things. It can be done. It has amazing results. But you need to do the calculations of your tuned pipe with the idea of backpressure on it. Supercharging is easier.
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Apr 6, 2013 23:32
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BaKESAL3 posted:does anyone know if the engine putting out more power than the moped's frame was designed for would create any kind of problems down the road? Common sense says it can but it seems worth asking. There's always going to be a trade-off between mechanical stress and reliability. The more performance you demand from the engine (or any mechanism really) the shorter its lifetime, all other things being equal. A 2 litre engine can be made to develop 400 horsepower for a couple of races, but a truck diesel displacing 8 litres will do it every day for a decade or more.
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Apr 7, 2013 00:13
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BaKESAL3 posted:So I'm thinking of kicking off a project that is much more work that it is likely worth but first I need to know if it's possible so I have a few questions. And the land speed record for 50cc is around 140mph. Aprilia 2t 50cc turbocharged IIRC.
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Apr 7, 2013 01:07
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My 2002 R6 is really close to 10,000 miles on the odometer. Is there any maintenance item I should be looking at? I bought it a couple of years ago with less than 2,000 miles on it.
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Apr 7, 2013 03:28
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Welp, that settles it. Time to start scouring craigslist and moped forums for information and parts. Nerobro posted:I've got a 50mph moped. It's a completely sane project. My moped is 98 pounds I think. Which makes it a whole lot lighter than most scooters. The big wheels also handle bumps better. Do you happen to know the model of your moped? Also, I see what you mean about it being a sane project. Looking at some of these links in the moped thread it looks like a lot of mopeds are made with taking them apart in mind. Did you do anything to your moped or did it come like that? Gay Nudist Dad posted:Probably, especially since most worthwhile mopeds are 35 years old. It's not uncommon to weld on additional frame reinforcements. I think the first thing you'd run into is inadequate brakes and suspension, though I bet the community has figured that out, too. Thanks for the link, I figure I can worry about the breaks after I get it almost completed but I'm with you on the suspension. I'm sure it's going to feel fast even going 10mph, I cant imagine how bad it would be without great forks and rear suspension. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Our wholesale catalogs have nitrous kits for scooters. Are your catalogs available for view online anywhere? It'd be great to see what's out there and what/if any reward there would be for doing so. Crayvex posted:My 2002 R6 is really close to 10,000 miles on the odometer. Is there any maintenance item I should be looking at? I bought it a couple of years ago with less than 2,000 miles on it. Only thing that comes to mind is valves at 12-15k. Change your fluids if you haven't though, replace rubber parts you suspect may be exposed to more weather/dirt/ect. Engine/miles wise that's still a pretty drat new bike. You should be good to go. BaKESAL3 fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 03:35
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Crayvex posted:My 2002 R6 is really close to 10,000 miles on the odometer. Is there any maintenance item I should be looking at? I bought it a couple of years ago with less than 2,000 miles on it. The owner's manual will tell you specific scheduled items (google or ask dealer to look it up if you don't have a manual) but if you're in a maintaining mood and haven't done it in a while, new brake and clutch fluid and maybe fork oil would make sense.
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Apr 7, 2013 03:39
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BaKESAL3 posted:Do you happen to know the model of your moped? Also, I see what you mean about it being a sane project. Looking at some of these links in the moped thread it looks like a lot of mopeds are made with taking them apart in mind. Did you do anything to your moped or did it come like that? I have a Peugeot 103. There are more parts available for motobecanes though.  Keep in mind that moped frames SUCK. Read up on chassis design. http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/ And having to deal with belts and variators isn't exactly fun. (and they suck a lot of horsepower..) If you can find a MB5 or similar 50cc motorcycle you'd be in better shape. Or, since you were thinking of it, come up with a transmission you can hook up to a moped motor. :-) I've always wondered what a bicycle cassette would do with 10-12hp going into it. (I strongly suspect they would be just fine..) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 05:26
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BaKESAL3 posted:Are your catalogs available for view online anywhere? It'd be great to see what's out there and what/if any reward there would be for doing so. Page 595. Those prices are retail. Ain't cheap.
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Apr 7, 2013 16:13
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My shifter broke! It spins freely and I'm stuck in 3rd gear. I restrained it in place with zipties and rode a mile to a good stopping point. Starting out in 3rd gear isn't so bad. Is there any reason I shouldn't ride it home stuck in third? City streets, 4 miles.
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Apr 7, 2013 20:55
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alnilam posted:My shifter broke! Nah you're just going to burn the clutch a bit. But clutches are cheap.
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Apr 7, 2013 21:14
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Are you sure you can't put the shifter back onto the shaft and try to squeeze it a bit to get it to kick down to at least 2nd? Is the problem that the shifter just isn't gripping onto the splined shaft?
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Apr 7, 2013 21:19
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Thought I would have a quiet Sunday afternoon for a simple oil change on my EX250. Well, I drain the oil, pull the filter, filter looks clean, replace the filter, pull the oil screen, and I find these:  That's 3 chunks of metal each about a half centimeter big, plus assorted tiny metallic pieces stuck elsewhere on the oil screen. The front and back 'faces' of the big pieces are flat and the edges are rounded. The top one is like a corner piece, the dark areas are the two rounded edges. The bike has about 85k miles, and this is the first oil change done since I bought the thing (only ~1k miles since) so I really have no idea how long they've been there. What do I even do at this point?
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Apr 7, 2013 22:15
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timn posted:
I'd say be thankful that it's lasted that long. drat. No idea what those pieces are and neither will anyone else until you split the cases to look and see what's broken. If it's run this long I guess it's possible those pieces were just sitting down low and the pickup can't get to them which means you got lucky.
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Apr 7, 2013 22:37
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I've got a question. Sometimes when I'm shifting down to first on my ex250, the shifter has to be pushed down a lot farther than usual (or so it feels) to clunk into first. Is that normal? I'm a newbie so it could just be my lack of skill, but I really hope I haven't done something to the transmission. 
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Apr 7, 2013 22:49
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Are you stopped? Going into gear when stopped can take more force if the gears aren't lined up.
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Apr 7, 2013 22:55
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I'm usually either slowing to a stop or stopped, yes. That makes sense, thanks!
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Apr 7, 2013 22:58
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It's generally a good idea to downshift as you slow down even if you know you're just stopping. Not only does it avoid that klonkiness of stationary shifting, it also ensures you're in the right gear if you need to suddenly accelerate to escape something (like a speeding car behind you.) Your balance of braking / engine braking is up to you. Next time it feels stiff, instead of stomping harder, roll the bike forward or back a bit. It should just snick into gear.
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Apr 7, 2013 23:06
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Thanks for reassurance, folks. Got home no problem, except that starting up a steep hill in third gear took 2 tries. Pittsburgh!  JP Money posted:Are you sure you can't put the shifter back onto the shaft and try to squeeze it a bit to get it to kick down to at least 2nd? Is the problem that the shifter just isn't gripping onto the splined shaft? The splined shaft broke. Like, broken metal broke.  I could have pushed on the linkage to push it into 2nd, but with this bike's gearing, 3rd was actually the best to be in - I got lucky! It's a Kawa Vulcan 500. 3rd is possible to start out in, but can go up to 25-30 within reasonable revs. So here's my situation. The splined shaft, part 13167 below, broke. A bit of the broken shaft is still stuck in the union part 13236B; I think if I loosen bolt 132, I should be able to shove out the part still stuck in there.  The shaft is housed by the clutch case, but I don't think it actually runs through any fluids in the clutch case, nor do I know why it would. So I think replacing this shaft should be as easy as pulling the old one out, clamping the pedal onto the new one, pushing the new one back through, and attaching it to the union (part 13236B in the schematic). I don't think I should need to open the clutch case or anything. Is this true? This is one of my first non-routine repairs on a motorbike (lots of bicycle experience; obviously not the same, but at least I know how to use tools and have a decent sense of mechanics. I have a Hayne's manual, but it's not very helpful on this point.) Also, I found the splined shaft on bikebandit, but I'm not 100% sure how to interpret the upper-most part of the schematic I posted here. Basically, if you draw a horizontal line through bolt 132, I don't know where any of the stuff above that line is. It looks to me like those parts all exist down on the transmission end of the linkage , i.e. they are a detail on what would physically be the bottom-right part of the diagram (indicated by a line that gets broken up by some of the part numbers). Is that true? If so, since the linkage is intact and the break is up at the shaft, I don't think I should need to worry about those parts. edit: M42 posted:I'm usually either slowing to a stop or stopped, yes. That makes sense, thanks! Someone once taught me to let the clutch out for an instant and then try shifting again, when trying to shift slow/stopped. Rolling the bike a bit also helps. as someone already said.
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Apr 7, 2013 23:19
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I am a brand new rider, bought a 1974 CB360 yesterday. The mechanics at the shop gave it a quick look-over the previous day, so I rode off and spent about 1.5 hours riding, fun stuff, then put it in a garage. Today, I can't start the thing. It's in neutral, clutch all the way in, fuel valve on, ignition switch on, tried with the choke on and off and everywhere in between. I had some luck at first, the engine turned over with the electric starter, I rolled the throttle in and it was going, but I guess I released too early for it to idle. When I went to try again, no luck - at first I could hear the engine, but after a couple more presses of the starter it just started making a buzzing noise and the engine didn't go at all. The battery isn't completely dead (the light still turns on). I tried the kick starter but I couldn't figure that out at all. It only went all the way down in neutral with the clutch in, but no matter how hard I kicked (and I can kick pretty hard I think) it didn't do anything, except make a soft click when it was being pushed at the bottom. I tried kicking it with everything off before I kicked it normally, no luck there either. So what the gently caress? Can anyone give me any tips? (There also is gas, but definitely a third tank or less) Pie Colony fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 23:20
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Your battery is dead. Get a new one before you try anything else. To use the kicker you need to have the bike in neutral and the clutch engaged (ie., let go of the lever) to turn the engine over. If you have the clutch disengaged, you'll just be spinning the gearbox around, not the engine. Flip out the kick starter lever, put just enough weight on it so that you can feel the beginning of the engagement, then push down as far as it goes strongly and smoothly. Don't stomp on it like you're trying to kill a cockroach, because sharp motions will just stress the lever and eventually break it off. Just push downwards smoothly with enough force to reach the bottom in one motion. You'll feel a couple of blup-blup-blup kind of sensations (and hear pulses from the exhaust) if you did everything right. Ride it back up -- don't let it snap back if you can help it. If the engine is properly tuned, the battery is charged and it's not freezing out, the bike should start on the first or second kick. Remember: clutch out, bike in neutral. If you have the clutch in, you won't spin the engine. If you have the bike in gear, the kick starter will turn the wheel and jerk the bike forwards, and it will take off when it starts. Also, post your new bike in the "let's see your ride" thread and feel free to ask questions in the Vintage Bikes thread! Welcome! Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 23:28
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