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Can anyone give 170lb me a good starting point recipe for the suspension clickers on my stock DRZ400SM? I wasn't happy with ride when I bought it, so I set everything to the factory numbers in the service manual. Then I dicked around with everything a bunch last season, but never got it quite right. The front just feels "bobby," and bouncy on smooth roads so I guess something is too soft? I'm not much of a hooligan, so I'm just looking for it to feel good on the road, with a few curbs mixed in.
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Apr 5, 2013 23:10
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eddiewalker posted:Can anyone give 170lb me a good starting point recipe for the suspension clickers on my stock DRZ400SM? I wasn't happy with ride when I bought it, so I set everything to the factory numbers in the service manual. Are you really feeling all the bumps and grooves in the road and misinterpreting it as bobbing? If so, then the suspension is too stiff. If it really is bobbing, as in there is no damping going on, then you have bigger problems like low/nonexistent fork oil. The forks shouldn't adjust to low enough damping for the bike to really get floaty
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Apr 6, 2013 01:28
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I'm 190 and I don't think the suspension in the back holds up my  frame, it dips a bit more than the front. Is stock configuration fine for anyone who isn't  ?This is all but dyno of course, and I'm coming from a broken GS500 with blown shocks so I have nothing to compare to.
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Apr 6, 2013 01:48
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Drzs have really unbalanced suspensions stock. Rear is too soft, front is about right for 160-180 pounds iirc but goes to poo poo due to the rear taking all the sag and not letting any weight get over the front.
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Apr 6, 2013 02:12
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Having owned both a DRZ400SM and a WR250X, they are both awesome. It really comes down to your size and what you prefer. I somewhat prefer the low-end power delivery of the DRZ but once you get used to constantly boucing the WR off of the rev limiter, it's pretty fun. As for controls and handling, they are both awesome again. Their absolute limit is way further than I have or will take them too on the street, they both jump easy, both have great suspensions and brakes. I own currently and prefer the WR250X because I personally prefer the overall package. I am willing to deal with the high-revving nature of the engine because it has fuel injection, a 6-speed, it looks better, and personally just feels better, to me, than the DRZ. Again, they are both great, amazing bikes. It's impossible to sell the DRZ short having owned one and rode it the way I rode it. I love them both. I can't wait to ride my first KTM supermoto. 
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Apr 7, 2013 09:56
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UNACCEPTABLE!!! YOU MUST CHOOSE ONE ONLY AND FORM AN UNDYING ALLIANCE!!!!
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Apr 7, 2013 16:17
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Went to Disney World last week, and watched the Lights Motors Action stunt show. They had some cool custom Opel Corsas with Hayabusa engines in the back, and then they also did a bike stunt part, including these:
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Apr 7, 2013 16:21
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I really ought to install some sliders/pucks/whatnot on my DRZ. I also need to ride it more. I spent 3 hours running errands last time I was on it, just enjoyed hooning around the city with my music on. Then I took the CB400 out last time I was home, made me realise just how drat buzzy the 400 single is.
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Apr 7, 2013 17:52
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If you wanna do them cheap a lot of people use skateboard wheels. I have these on my bike and they seem like they'd work fine. If you turn them around so the blank side faces out they look a lot better. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/395268-homegrown-axle-slider-pics/
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Apr 7, 2013 18:00
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Skateboard wheels seem like a bad idea since they're designed to grip pavement, not slide on it. Seems like it'd cause your bike to flip like crazy if one of those caught.
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Apr 7, 2013 19:01
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hayden. posted:Skateboard wheels seem like a bad idea since they're designed to grip pavement, not slide on it. Seems like it'd cause your bike to flip like crazy if one of those caught. Actually the polyurethane in most skateboard wheels is a harder grade designed to slide, as many tricks require it. It's only the soft graded ones like the ones they use on downhill boards that are designed to really grip. EDIT: it's been years since I rode but mini-logo seem to do some nice hard wheels (101a is about as hard as they get) in rad colours with minimal branding. http://www.tactics.com/mini-logo/all ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 14:23
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BOOSH!!!!
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Apr 9, 2013 03:42
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drat, that's pretty. Tell me you're keeping the awesomely colored tubing?
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Apr 9, 2013 04:53
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Oh yes, the pink tubing stays on my man-carb
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Apr 9, 2013 05:30
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:BOOSH!!!! You're gonna love this! It'll make you want a big bore and cams next though. In other news, just signed up for my first track day! Unfortunately it's at a very wide open track so I'll be going with a 15/39 setup on the DRZ. I hope it isn't completely gutless  I may keep it with the 14 tooth in the front with 39 out back, haven't decided yet. Either way...track time!
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Apr 9, 2013 06:30
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JP Money posted:You're gonna love this! It'll make you want a big bore and cams next though. I had one on my old DRZ and the only way I could describe it was being like a motor swap. I've already told myself im holding off on the BB and cams until I have to do them though. Thats an expensive hole to fall down.
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Apr 9, 2013 14:51
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There's a German tuning company called Großewachter who will take a 690 motor, bore the barrel +2mm, port/polish/shotpeen the head, radius the valves and balance the crank and ship it back with a matched piston and cam for a little over 1000 EUR. http://www.gw-racing-parts.de/index2.php?view=tuning&HID=21&type=690&von=2006&bis=2010&lan=en I need to take the head off to do the cam chain soon anyway...
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Apr 9, 2013 15:18
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Why do you need to do the cam chain? Yours is the first 690 I've heard of needing it done (although I havent looked around at them lately). And who would do the tuning on that when it was done?
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Apr 9, 2013 15:43
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I'm at >22,000 miles and the cam chain is almost at the end of adjustment. I'm pretty sure it saw more wear than normal because the original hydraulic tensioner kept collapsing on mine. Something to do with all the short trips I make with the bike. I can probably squeeze it out all the way to 25k but I'd rather not.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:04
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:BOOSH!!!! Oh yes. I want to do this so bad. I know it is probably not that difficult but I am scared shitless to start modding my bike. My bike has been bone stock for 6 years, but I think now is the time to start making it ever more awesome...
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Apr 9, 2013 16:15
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DRZ? At least jet it and give it the 3x3 treatment. Its easy and really wakes it up. They are jetted sooooo lean from the factory.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:28
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Adding a new carb isn't so bad. Even more so if you buy the kits from ThumperTalk / Sisneros where it comes pre-jetted for your area. The worst part would be wrestling it into place as it's a tight fit. If you haven't even rejetted / done the 3x3 you'll probably be happy with that for a little while. A jet kit will run ~70 bucks though you don't even need 9/10's of it. You will want the new needle that provides. I have 2 mostly complete jet kits left that will work on the stock DRZ carb. Take a look at the jetting guides (or ask here) and see what main jet size you need and I can probably help you out. I just need to dig around and find the kits.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:52
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:BOOSH!!!! Pink tube dominance. 
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Apr 9, 2013 20:14
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It's a suzuki, your tubing should be yellow of course.
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Apr 9, 2013 20:26
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JP Money posted:It's a suzuki, your tubing should be yellow of course. I don't have any carbs, but for my fish tank I use translucent green fuel lines 
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Apr 9, 2013 22:46
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:DRZ? At least jet it and give it the 3x3 treatment. Its easy and really wakes it up. They are jetted sooooo lean from the factory. JP Money posted:Adding a new carb isn't so bad. Even more so if you buy the kits from ThumperTalk / Sisneros where it comes pre-jetted for your area. The worst part would be wrestling it into place as it's a tight fit. I bought my bike in Florida, but then moved to Colorado. When I got here, it wasn't running well due to the altitude, so I brought it to a shop and said "derp derp, i'm an idiot, can you make my bike work again?" They "Rejetted" the carb (I think?) and now it runs as well as it did when I bought it. I consider myself a 5 out of 10 on the mechanical ability scale, but messing with my precious baby (and having the possibility of screwing it up) really scares me... But I still really want to it  Do you have to rejet every time you do something to the bike? i.e. pipe, 3x3 mod etc?
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Apr 10, 2013 01:19
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Generally people do the 3x3, new pipe and rejet all at once and call it a day. That's what I'd recommend. You could do it stepwise but it's easier just to do it all at once while everything is off.
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Apr 10, 2013 02:03
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Anything that changes how much air flows through the engine in a significant way will require a rejet. So if you did the rejet, and the 3x3, but then added an aftermarket exhaust afterwards, you would need to rejet again. Its best to plan that stuff in chunks so you're not always rejetting. The good thing is the DRZ is a very known quantity, so you wont have to guess at any jetting. Just tell the people on the thumpertalk forums what you have and where you are and they will tell you exactly how to jet it.
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Apr 10, 2013 05:52
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axia posted:I bought my bike in Florida, but then moved to Colorado. When I got here, it wasn't running well due to the altitude, so I brought it to a shop and said "derp derp, i'm an idiot, can you make my bike work again?" They "Rejetted" the carb (I think?) and now it runs as well as it did when I bought it. I'm on the north side of Denver, and am pretty comfortable with that stuff.
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Apr 10, 2013 21:26
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Oh poo poo you're in Colorado? Eddie Sisneros is up there. You can't find anymore more knowledgable about DRZ's than him period. http://www.sisnerosspeedworks.com I've emailed him about several things before and he got back very fast with helpful answers. You can take it to him and he'd hook you up with exactly what you need.
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Apr 10, 2013 21:41
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My bike won't start. I thought about putting this in the questions thread, but it's a DRZ400, so maybe this is a better place. Electrics turn on, everything seems to be working fine. There is no response at all when I press the "start my bike please" button. It was raining pretty hard this morning, but other than that nothing is out of the ordinary. Any ideas to get me home?  EDIT: Trying to bypass Clutch Switch now. Resource fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 01:15
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Battery is probably dead. Happened recently to a friends bike. The lights and everything turn on with the key, but the bike itself won't start without a jump and the battery doesn't keep a charge after riding it.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:44
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Resource posted:My bike won't start. How long has it been since you last rode it? My guess is on battery first since that's what went on mine with the same symptoms and if you haven't fixed it, I believe the dash draws power even when off for some reason. In other news, guess what I found today when checking to see if the PO did the 3x3?  Should I just cut the rest of that out and hope I don't have to rejet or should I leave it and wait until I replace the exhaust?
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Apr 11, 2013 02:25
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If all the space cut out is around 9in^2 I don't think it matters. I didn't cut mine on my last box in a perfect square. I doubt it makes a difference.
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Apr 11, 2013 02:33
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Resource posted:My bike won't start. Don't forget the kickstand switch too as well as the killswitch...make sure it's not in the off position. EDIT - Excuse the double post. I am an idiot who cannot effectively use the quote buttons in the right order.
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Apr 11, 2013 02:34
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Kenny Rogers posted:Where are you in Colorado? I live out in Golden. Let's ride!  (and also talk about drz mods)  JP Money posted:Oh poo poo you're in Colorado? Eddie Sisneros is up there. You can't find anymore more knowledgable about DRZ's than him period. Sweet info, thanks!! I'm going to have to take a ride up there... as soon as I have some  's.
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Apr 11, 2013 05:02
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Is there any better or worse year for DRZ's? I plan on snagging one for my dad sometime after graduation so he can load it into his RV but I want something I don't have to worry about if he wants to take it for a few months at a time since I'll be doing most of the maintenance when he brings it back. Also is KTM ever gonna make another 690 SMC? 
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Apr 11, 2013 05:57
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They did and it might be coming here. Fingers crossed.
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Apr 11, 2013 06:10
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There's a 2012 SMC-R in the local dealership at the moment. I almost asked if they had any financing deals on...
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Apr 11, 2013 09:58
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Xovaan posted:Is there any better or worse year for DRZ's? I plan on snagging one for my dad sometime after graduation so he can load it into his RV but I want something I don't have to worry about if he wants to take it for a few months at a time since I'll be doing most of the maintenance when he brings it back. I'm assuming we're talking DRZ S and not SM? The first couple of years of the S had old-school damper-rod forks. After that, they got cartridge forks. Thats about it
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Apr 11, 2013 14:15
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