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Slavvy posted:No, I just didn't want to create an even bigger wall of text packed with quotes. Do you exist just to nitpick? I know when to keep my mouth shut. It's irc.synirc.net #bieks btw.
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Apr 11, 2013 00:12
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I'm at work so I can't do anything in real-time. Seriously though can someone explain powercommanders to me? I'll be getting a modern sportbike of some description soon and I want to know.
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Apr 11, 2013 00:28
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They just plug into the ECU and they work across all makes. I had a PCIII on a FZ6 and you could plug into it with a laptop and load pre-made maps onto it. You can edit it yourself too but I never did that. The PO had a "custom map" on it and it never ran well, so I downloaded the stock map for a FZ6 with Scorpion pipes and it ran much smoother. Just poke around their site and most of your questions will be answered.
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Apr 11, 2013 00:36
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It's a user serviceable fuel map tuner, working in piggy back. Stock ECU -> Power commander. You change parameters on the power commander, by loading or changing the map to tune out flat spots in the RPM range by modifying the Air Fuel Ratio. Pre-loaded maps for common configurations can get you close, best to take it to a tuner w/ a dyno who knows what they're doing for optimum results.
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Apr 11, 2013 00:36
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Guys, why are we arguing? Can't we all just agree that no matter what technology is in use it only *really* sucks if it's on a Harley? Except if it's chrome, or pushrods. Those rock on Harleys. (screw you guys I like Harleys)
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Apr 11, 2013 00:58
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Halo_4am posted:I have a 2001 SV650 (WITH CARBS) as a trade offer for the Shadow that I'll likely take as a commuter. It has a single bar-end mirror, tiny aftermarket signals, aftermarket gauges, aftermarket dual headlights, and the tires are chicken strip free. I'm assuming this spent some time as a track rat and has likely been down a time or two before getting streetfightered. The title is clear and not salvage or rebuilt, but to me that just means it's likely wreck wasn't reported to insurance. Think about your tolerance for Crazy Previous Owner syndrome. Then look at the description of this bike that you wrote out. Make sure you are cool with this.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:17
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Nerobro posted:You have an intake boot leak. Also if you let a bike sit for years and years, all bets are off, but in average use, including yearly winter storage, EFI is more convenient and reliable than carbs. Neither carbs nor EFIs melt pistons. That's just Sagebrush.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:24
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:At our shop we've seen a lot of 70s/80s bikes, most often Japanese fours, showing this symptom, and not a lot of them are actually due to intake leaks. It can be a complete bitch to solve the issue. Some of the worst offenders are the old Honda mechanical slide carbs. The cause is similar to an intake leak though, it's running lean due to reasons that are hard to specifically track down. Assuming it's just wear on the moving parts in the carb which lets too much air through. Upping the idle jet usually fixes it, but a disturbing number of those bikes have pressed-in idle jets which basically can't be changed. I guess if you're running too rich or fouling plugs you just add Sagebrush.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:30
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clutchpuck posted:Except if it's chrome, or pushrods. Those rock on Harleys. Well, you have a Buell. Doesn't that make you a motorcyclist Uncle Tom?
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Apr 11, 2013 01:41
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:At our shop we've seen a lot of 70s/80s bikes, most often Japanese fours, showing this symptom, and not a lot of them are actually due to intake leaks. It can be a complete bitch to solve the issue. Some of the worst offenders are the old Honda mechanical slide carbs. The cause is similar to an intake leak though, it's running lean due to reasons that are hard to specifically track down. Assuming it's just wear on the moving parts in the carb which lets too much air through. Upping the idle jet usually fixes it, but a disturbing number of those bikes have pressed-in idle jets which basically can't be changed. I've refreshed the intake boots with the methyl salicylate and xylene and they're pretty bangin' and tight, so I don't think it's an intake leak. But you're right at guessing that they're direct mechanical slide carbs with press-in idle jets (though I've taken the idle jets out and had them drilled and reamed from 35 to 45 IIRC and it helped a bit). It doesn't happen too much and isn't an issue while riding, so I just let it be. If a piston melts from the 10 minutes a week it can potentially run lean, then it's on me and I fully assume responsibility.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:55
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:At our shop we've seen a lot of 70s/80s bikes, most often Japanese fours, showing this symptom, and not a lot of them are actually due to intake leaks. It can be a complete bitch to solve the issue. Some of the worst offenders are the old Honda mechanical slide carbs. The cause is similar to an intake leak though, it's running lean due to reasons that are hard to specifically track down. Assuming it's just wear on the moving parts in the carb which lets too much air through. Upping the idle jet usually fixes it, but a disturbing number of those bikes have pressed-in idle jets which basically can't be changed. Yeah, modern fuel is less energy dense than the old stuff. (almost everything at the pump is at least e10, if not e15.) Going up a pilot jet solves a LOT of problems. On bigger displacement bikes, emulsion tube wear can be a problem. The bigger the bike, the more likely that's the problem. And gently caress honda for using pressed in jets. :-)
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Apr 11, 2013 02:07
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Nerobro posted:Yeah, modern fuel is less energy dense than the old stuff. (almost everything at the pump is at least e10, if not e15.) Going up a pilot jet solves a LOT of problems. This is interesting, here in NZ only one service station brand does 10% ethanol and it's 98 octane only. Is it really that different running e10/15 to normal petrol on an older bike?
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Apr 11, 2013 03:09
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Just enough, yes.
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Apr 11, 2013 03:16
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I'm in the market for a Triumph Bonneville T100. Basically I want to be able to maintain the bike myself, but I understand post 2007 (I think) Triumph went to EFI. Basically should I get an older bike without EFI to maintain it myself? Judging from the thread people are saying a carb is better for DIY but you need to be on top of maintenance more often. What's the deal?
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Apr 11, 2013 03:26
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You should be able to maintain an EFI Model yourself too, with an OBD-II cable and TuneECU
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Apr 11, 2013 03:37
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Modern EFI doesn't really need to be maintained in any way. Unless you wanna tune it or something. Also, can anyone explain to me what's with the new Bonnevilles? Are they really EFI? I know they have fuel pumps, so how come there are big carb shaped things with Keihin written on them under the tank, then?
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Apr 11, 2013 03:44
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Just get a bike that feels good to ride, and looks as good as you want it to for the price. Either option is just fine for a normal rider. Racers are going to have differing needs and thus good reasons for stronger preference but for newbies and people who don't obsess over performance minutiae don't even worry about it. Just check up on things like "does this bike like to fry its R/R constantly and attempt to light your balls on fire", "how easy is it to get decent tires for non-assrape prices", and "how often does this need a total overhaul"(more important if you're buying an old bike with a lot of miles on the clock). E: you can get as fiddly as you want with both carbed and EFI bikes, one is just fiddly with hardware and the other is fiddly with software. If you plan on getting very fiddly, EFI will normally allow you to see results faster since you can just reflash the fuel map and start back up to test, whereas carbs will take a little futzing around with post-adjustment to dial it in. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 03:46
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Snowdens Secret posted:Think about your tolerance for Crazy Previous Owner syndrome. Then look at the description of this bike that you wrote out. Make sure you are cool with this. I wrote the book on Crazy PO's and am largely ok with this. I see mirrors and tires thus far, and maybe bigger turn signals. It's the stuff replaced on it that makes me fear the worst, otherwise it's actually a bit cleaner than I am looking for in a commuter. Sure is pretty too...   I'm not sure if it's the pics or what, but it certainly looks like the once standard riding position is not so standard anymore?
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Apr 11, 2013 03:47
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J Bjelke-Postersen posted:I'm in the market for a Triumph Bonneville T100. Basically I want to be able to maintain the bike myself, but I understand post 2007 (I think) Triumph went to EFI. Basically should I get an older bike without EFI to maintain it myself? Judging from the thread people are saying a carb is better for DIY but you need to be on top of maintenance more often. What's the deal? So, out of curiosity, what is it on an EFI bike you don't think you'll be able to "DIY"? Reading "tech" stuff on this site feels like I've timewarped back to a usenet post from 1993.
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Apr 11, 2013 03:50
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Guys, why are we arguing? Can't we all just agree that no matter what technology is in use it only *really* sucks if it's on a Harley? Electronic Freedom Injection
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Apr 11, 2013 03:52
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Modern EFI doesn't really need to be maintained in any way. Unless you wanna tune it or something. Keihin make throttlebodies. They're shaped like carbs for nostalgia factor or whatever you want to call it. ThatCguy posted:So, out of curiosity, what is it on an EFI bike you don't think you'll be able to "DIY"? This.
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Apr 11, 2013 03:55
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Slavvy posted:This is interesting, here in NZ only one service station brand does 10% ethanol and it's 98 octane only. Is it really that different running e10/15 to normal petrol on an older bike? Carbs are a volume/volume metering device. The volume of fuel doesn't change. Yup. 14.7:1 versus 9:1. Throw 10% Ethanol into gas and your mixture just got 4% leaner. 6% lean if you're running e15. Your jetting is closer than that. :-) (Carbs are really pretty good metering devices... ) When I'm setting my jetting I'm changing it by less than that. Edit: now that I think about it. Bikes, up until recently were blind. And EFI bikes would benifit from different maps for E whatever fuel. The "Needs to run aircraft fuel" isn't so much about aircraft fuel being "better" it's that it didn't have alcahol in it, so it's denser. It's like running a richer map. Or bigger jets. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 03:59
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Halo_4am posted:
GSXR front forks?
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Apr 11, 2013 04:02
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ThatCguy posted:GSXR front forks? Not unless it's like a 95 gixxer. It looks like they did a tail swap with something and maybe have a taller rear shock on there.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:05
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JP Money posted:Not unless it's like a 95 gixxer. It looks like they did a tail swap with something and maybe have a taller rear shock on there. Yeah it looks like something is up with that tail. Not sure what. It's probably fine though. Unlikely it was a track rat if the forks and rear shock are still relatively stock. Also anyone who thinks EFI is the solution to the world's woes has never owned an earlier model Triumph. loving A that poo poo was terrible.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:23
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It is a mystery. The guy is selling it for a friend, and I think wants the 83 for himself as he's 'not a sport bike guy'. His friend supposedly doesn't know anything about it but does have a clear title to it. I'll be looking it over with a fine tooth comb and rolling through the gears looking for anything amiss, and bail if something beyond the obvious smells. I'm not counting on a terribly good owner history and plan to drop the $10-$20 on a full VIN history before finalizing anything, but I don't expect to find much there. The free is it salvage/stolen check shows it's clean. The rest is up to what I can cover with a test ride and imagination of what this thing has been through in it's undetermanable amount of miles. VinDecoder actually lists it as a 2002... they may not even have that much right. So long as VIN matches the frame and matches the title I'm not overly worried about the record keeping.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:24
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ChewedFood posted:Awesome. Now I just need to find out about the popping between gears. If it all checks out, I guess I'll be the proud new owner of a KTM. I have an 08 EXC. It pops and backfires on decel regularly. Also on mine if you disconnect the speed sensor from the dashboard it will cease to accumulate hours or miles but run just fine. Good luck!
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Apr 11, 2013 04:26
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ThatCguy posted:So, out of curiosity, what is it on an EFI bike you don't think you'll be able to "DIY"? Basically just tuning the bike, which has been cleared up so thank you 
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Apr 11, 2013 04:33
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Slavvy posted:Keihin make throttlebodies. They're shaped like carbs for nostalgia factor or whatever you want to call it.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:36
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Do they actually have diaphragmed slides in them as they appear? If so, wouldn't that just slow down throttle response or something? It couldn't do anything useful with an injector in there, surely. http://www.motorcyclistcafe.com/forums/showthread.php?5983-Fake-Carbs&s=f21a92540d8005885980aa039a333372&p=73842#post73842
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Apr 11, 2013 04:44
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theperminator posted:You should be able to maintain an EFI Model yourself too, with an OBD-II cable and TuneECU Only on Triumphs AFAIK. Yamaha's (and maybe gsxr's?) can use the FlashTune stuff but that's a few hundred bucks unless you know someone with it already. I'm not sure about Honda's and Kawasaki's but I think you're stuck with power commanders there too.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:46
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Yeah that's what I meant, any EFI Triumph should be able to be connected to TuneECU without any issue. But Do not connect a 2013 model Triumph to TuneECU it triggers a fault code that can't be cleared by you or the dealer, the ECU has to be sent back to Triumph and they'll use it to void your warranty.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:55
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theperminator posted:Yeah that's what I meant, any EFI Triumph should be able to be connected to TuneECU without any issue. I am an idiot. Somehow I misread your post as saying "modern EFI" and completely looked over the fact that you were speaking towards a specific model's ECU.
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Apr 11, 2013 04:59
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I have a question of my own: front cylinder plugs are looking dark and sooty(but not visibly oily), rear plugs are the correct light chocolate brown. Go ahead and throw down for a compression tester, or should I be checking something else first? It's a single carb model with a simple y-shaped intake manifold, a bad intake gasket on one side wouldn't be able to cause that right?
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Apr 11, 2013 05:28
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JP Money posted:Only on Triumphs AFAIK. Yamaha's (and maybe gsxr's?) can use the FlashTune stuff but that's a few hundred bucks unless you know someone with it already. TuneECU also works on some KTMs and Aprilias. Basically anything with a Sagem ECU and enough nerds to crack it. First I heard of the no-touch-em-2013 thing.
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Apr 11, 2013 06:09
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So I just brought home a 99 VFR800 on friday. I'm pretty stoked but it needs some maintenance. While I'm in there I'd like to check out my exhaust options. Does anyone know of a full system exhaust for a 98-99 vfr800?
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Apr 11, 2013 06:33
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ThatCguy posted:http://www.motorcyclistcafe.com/forums/showthread.php?5983-Fake-Carbs&s=f21a92540d8005885980aa039a333372&p=73842#post73842
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Apr 11, 2013 13:42
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Alright, I'm having an issue getting my '93 Kawi ZX6E started. It's always given me issues starting from a cold engine, so I figured I'd take the time to do some maintenance this winter. I've cleaned the carbs and replaced the throttle cables that were rusted and kinked. I noticed that one of the float bowls was entirely dry when I took it apart, so obviously there was something going on there. I did not replace any gaskets, but they seemed to be in good shape. I put the carbs back on the bike, reconnected everything, replaced spark plugs, set the proper gap and attempted to start her up. All it does is crank, with no rollover or really any attempt to start up. I checked a spark plug for spark and it's there. I tested for compression, by pulling a spark plug and blocking the hole with my hand while trying to start and it seems fine. Battery is fully charged, fuel is flowing from the tank, through the pump, to the carbs. Last night I took the carbs off again and checked to make sure that all the float bowls were getting gas, and they are. I'm just at my wit's end here, and I can't help but think I'm missing something obvious. I've got the carbs apart again now, if anyone needs pics of what the gaskets look like or anything else.
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Apr 11, 2013 14:01
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Did you try turning it over for a few moments and then take out a spark plug to sniff for gas? Also take off the air filter and try to start it up, see what happens. I don't know where you're located but I've seen bikes that were in storage come out with some bad mildew on paper air elements and refuse to start with them on as a result. If it still won't do anything without the filter you can also try putting a tiny shot of carb cleaner or starting fluid into the airbox, waiting a second for it to gas off, and then see if it catches/backfires/ignites in any way. Kawis mostly have wasted-spark as far as I know, so if something's funny with your spark timing where it's not firing exactly right, the fluid ought to catch on at least one of the strokes. Also check up on your pilot screw/passage and make sure it's not gunked up or clogged, just make sure you count exactly how many turns out it is before removing it. Maybe pass a couple fine copper wires through your jets, emulsion tube holes, and any readily accessible carb passages while you've got it all apart again. I've found Ronsonol lighter fluid works wonderfully for dissolving nasty varnish/gunky buildup without unduly destroying brain cells in the process. The whole "not explosive" and "doesn't reek like hell" thing is nice too. Did you try bump-starting it on a nice hill yet? If I have the fuel system apart and drained for any reason, my bike normally needs to either be turned over for 3-4 seconds a few times before it starts, or get a nice bump start in 2nd to get all the vacuums and fuel passages back into normal range. e: Oh and double-check your throttle stop is set correctly, maybe even turn it in a few more times. I don't know why it would be different from the last time the bike was ridden, but that's definitely something I would put in the "small and dumb thing that's easily forgotten" category. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 14:19
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There is a slight smell of gas, but it isn't very strong. The last few times I've tried starting the bike has been with the tank to the side, with the hose connected to the fuel pump and no air box attached. I did set the pilot screw to 2.5 turns out, which is where it was when I first opened the carb up. I forgot to mention that the PO did install a Dynojet Stage 1 kit and Vance & Hines exhaust. My suspicion is that it's running too rich, but I'm not sure where to start to change that. I'm going to finish taking the carb apart tonight and clean everything again to see if that changes anything.
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Apr 11, 2013 14:53
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