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EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

A few shots of the aurora directly overhead, taken in Cleary Summit, AK on the evening of 3/16-17.


IMG_8362 by EPICAC, on Flickr


IMG_8369 by EPICAC/url], on Flickr

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/41566708@N08/8566525498/]

IMG_8336 by EPICAC, on Flickr

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toggle
Nov 7, 2005

Couple of long exposure first attempts:

humid night by blinsaff, on Flickr


suburbs under moon by blinsaff, on Flickr

VolumeOverTalent
Jan 27, 2006

BobTheCow posted:

I agree, this feels too light. I think you could've dropped your ISO or closed down your aperture by a full stop or two and kept the light trails while bringing down the ambient light that messes with your perception of it being nighttime.


Definitely. I spent a while sitting above a motorway the other night playing around with different settings and closing the aperture definitely made a difference. I'll go back at some point and give it another go.

wanghammer
Mar 24, 2001
DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH COCK I HAD TO SUCK TO GET THIS CUSTOM TITLE? A LOT!
Went out on the 30th for some northern lights and caught the tail end of a meteor.


IMG_6697 by bighoits, on Flickr

DoctaFun
Dec 12, 2005

Dammit Francis!
I was screwing around with the bright moon down in Cancun, I thought it came out kind of cool, could maybe use some cropping though:


13_03_26_00262 by Logan Roddy, on Flickr

PREYING MANTITS
Mar 13, 2003

and that's how you get ants.

wanghammer posted:

Went out on the 30th for some northern lights and caught the tail end of a meteor.


IMG_6697 by bighoits, on Flickr

Good lord I'm envious. That's so cool.

I thought the story sounded familiar, looks like this is the same meteor but from a different angle. :)
http://www.petapixel.com/2013/04/01/photographer-captures-meteor-streaking-through-the-aurora-borealis/

Musket
Mar 19, 2008
Posting Day light long exposures in here are ok? Ive been stacking multiple NDs to get various times as long as 2 mins.

wanghammer
Mar 24, 2001
DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH COCK I HAD TO SUCK TO GET THIS CUSTOM TITLE? A LOT!

PREYING MANTITS posted:

Good lord I'm envious. That's so cool.

I thought the story sounded familiar, looks like this is the same meteor but from a different angle. :)
http://www.petapixel.com/2013/04/01/photographer-captures-meteor-streaking-through-the-aurora-borealis/

Yup that's the same one! Timeline fits. I guess the photo was taken late on the 29th of March but saved to my pc on the 30th.

Juuu
Sep 3, 2007
Wasn't me.
Went to shoot starry skies, but accidentally captured some faint northern lights as well. They were barely visible, but a long exposure at gazillion ISO helped a bit.


Northern lights over Lentua by juusop, on Flickr

SulfurMonoxideCute
Feb 9, 2008

I was under direct orders not to die
🐵❌💀

Goddammit I hate being stuck in the city sometimes. I live at 51 degrees N, I could totally see auroras if I could get out at night.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I like taking photo's in the city at night and here is a selection.


129.jpg by drgarbanzo, on Flickr
4 second exposure at ISO200 played with in Lightroom


141.jpg by drgarbanzo, on Flickr
Same ISO but only a 1 second exposure.

BobTheCow
Dec 11, 2004

That's a thing?

Musket posted:

Posting Day light long exposures in here are ok? Ive been stacking multiple NDs to get various times as long as 2 mins.

Nobody answered this but hell yeah I'd love to see that!

Dia de Pikachutos
Nov 8, 2012


Narrabeen Rock Pool by spongepuppy, on Flickr

I live in the city, so this is about as good as astrophotography gets for me. Surprisingly, the Samyang 14mm is better than I expected for the money.

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


Anyone have any tips for shooting the Aurora Borealis?
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3543858&perpage=40&pagenumber=1#pti20

I'm in the fair zone and live in the middle of cornfields so I can probably find a spot with no light pollution.

Mannequin
Mar 8, 2003
Over the last few weeks I've done quite a lot of night photography. Can't wait to develop the film and start posting it. I've been using my Pentax 67II a lot lately because the meter is so drat good.

Admiral
Dec 14, 2000

If you see this man, slap him in the nuts for me.
Technically these aren't night time long exposures, but they ARE long exposures.
(Click for larger)





And here's the setup...



Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40 f/4, and a $5 piece of welding mask glass blu-tac'ed onto the filter.

This was my first outing with the welders glass, at some markets down the street from me. I'm looking forward to getting in to the Sydney CBD to get some shots I've wanted to try for ages.

garney
Jul 21, 2007
Does anyone have a nice guide written up about astro photography? Heading into the Australian wilderness for the first time in a week or so and really want to capture some Milky Way shots. I have a 5Dmk2 and my widest lens is 24mm f4, hoping to rent a 17mm though. Thanks!

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Basically: figure out how to focus your lens to infinity before you're out there in the pitch black, and visit the spot during the day to get a feel for composition options.

There's sky maps available online that let you input lat/long coordinates and fast forward into the future so you can get a feel for what it'll be like.. you'll want to know the phase of the moon and where it'll be and at what times the milky way will be above the horizon.

Bring a flashlight, maybe a pair of gloves, and a some red cellophane to put over the flashlight if you don't want to destroy your night vision. :v:

atmz
Jan 5, 2005

lurk lurk lurk
So, I took a photo tonight:


Southwark Bridge by atmz, on Flickr

I was wondering what the factors are which affect the look moving water has in long exposures; obviously the longer the exposure the more 'cloudy' and less wavy it gets, but what else does it depend on? Distance, calmness of the water (more calm = less cloudy?), anything else?

Quantum of Phallus
Dec 27, 2010

Yeah it's basically the movement of the water so if you want that cloudy look, you're looking for fast-moving water.
Nice picture :)

garney
Jul 21, 2007

xzzy posted:

Basically: figure out how to focus your lens to infinity before you're out there in the pitch black, and visit the spot during the day to get a feel for composition options.

There's sky maps available online that let you input lat/long coordinates and fast forward into the future so you can get a feel for what it'll be like.. you'll want to know the phase of the moon and where it'll be and at what times the milky way will be above the horizon.

Bring a flashlight, maybe a pair of gloves, and a some red cellophane to put over the flashlight if you don't want to destroy your night vision. :v:

Thanks! I'll take all that into consideration. Do you have a rough idea of what shutter speeds/aperture/ ISO's are typically used for these type of shots? I know it depends on the lens/body etc, but there might be a general 'rule' to it all.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

garney posted:

Thanks! I'll take all that into consideration. Do you have a rough idea of what shutter speeds/aperture/ ISO's are typically used for these type of shots? I know it depends on the lens/body etc, but there might be a general 'rule' to it all.

I think most set ISO to 800. You don't want it too low or you'll fail to capture dim stars, and if you set it too high, noise creeping in will destroy the dim stars.

Shutter speed is dependent on whether you want star trails or not. As your focal length increases, the amount of time you can keep the shutter open before trails appears shrinks. The rule of thumb is "1,000 ÷ Focal Length = Maximum Shutter Speed" before trails start to appear. There's wiggle room on this so you should experiment. To capture the milky way you'll probably want ~30-45 seconds to really get it to pop out, which means a wide angle lens.

If you're going for star trails, wide apertures will make bright star trails, narrow ones will be a bit dimmer.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
I think this is all you need to know about star trails.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

Admiral posted:

Technically these aren't night time long exposures, but they ARE long exposures.
(Click for larger)





And here's the setup...



Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40 f/4, and a $5 piece of welding mask glass blu-tac'ed onto the filter.

This was my first outing with the welders glass, at some markets down the street from me. I'm looking forward to getting in to the Sydney CBD to get some shots I've wanted to try for ages.

How much time are you finding yourself with, using this set up? Currently the most I can squeeze out of a cokin P filter ND set is about 1.5mins by stacking 8stop x2, internal X100 3stop on overcast days. Sunny days im limited to about 45-60sec.



_DSF2694-Edit.jpg by Ashade76

8stop+3stop+3stop internal ND, f/16 37seconds about 2pm on a very sunny day.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

xzzy posted:

I think most set ISO to 800. You don't want it too low or you'll fail to capture dim stars, and if you set it too high, noise creeping in will destroy the dim stars.

Shutter speed is dependent on whether you want star trails or not. As your focal length increases, the amount of time you can keep the shutter open before trails appears shrinks. The rule of thumb is "1,000 ÷ Focal Length = Maximum Shutter Speed" before trails start to appear. There's wiggle room on this so you should experiment. To capture the milky way you'll probably want ~30-45 seconds to really get it to pop out, which means a wide angle lens.

If you're going for star trails, wide apertures will make bright star trails, narrow ones will be a bit dimmer.

600/focal length for FX/Full Frame. 400/focal length for Nikon or 1.5crop mode sensors, 375/focal length for canon and 1.6 crop mode sensors :science:

With a tammy 17-55 you are lookin at about 23 seconds at ISO 1600 f/2.8 set at 17mm before you see trail movement in stars on a D3200.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!
Not amazing pictures but they came out alright after our failed attempt to see the northern lights around Vancouver on Saturday night.



Admiral
Dec 14, 2000

If you see this man, slap him in the nuts for me.

Musket posted:

How much time are you finding yourself with, using this set up? Currently the most I can squeeze out of a cokin P filter ND set is about 1.5mins by stacking 8stop x2, internal X100 3stop on overcast days. Sunny days im limited to about 45-60sec.
I bought two pieces of the glass to use, one is a Shade 9, and the other is a Shade 13, which is apparently close to the equivalent of an ND15 filter. I was shooting with the Shade 9, and was comfortably getting 30 seconds at f/11. I kept it to Manual because I didn't have my cable release with me for bulb mode. I'm pretty sure that with the Shade 13 on, I could get exposures into the multiple minutes in sunshine, that thing is DARK.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Saint Fu posted:

I think this is all you need to know about star trails.

drat, if google had pulled that link up I would have just pasted that instead of typing a bunch of words.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

xzzy posted:

drat, if google had pulled that link up I would have just pasted that instead of typing a bunch of words.
Yeah I spent a ton of time looking around for tips and such. Finally stumbled on that site and was pleasantly surprised by all the great info.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Squibbles posted:

Not amazing pictures but they came out alright after our failed attempt to see the northern lights around Vancouver on Saturday night.

Can you really see the lights from Vancouver? I lived there for almost 6 years, and am probably going back soon. I assume you have to get out of the city to get dark enough skies? I didn't have a car before, so that was never an option, really.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

garney posted:

Thanks! I'll take all that into consideration. Do you have a rough idea of what shutter speeds/aperture/ ISO's are typically used for these type of shots? I know it depends on the lens/body etc, but there might be a general 'rule' to it all.

I spent a week in Alaska last month. Spent 8 evenings photographing the auroras using my friend's XTi and 18-55mm kit lens. I used ISO800, f/3.5 (as wide open as the lens went). Exposure times were really variable depending on how bright the auroras were. For the fainter displays I was using anywhere from 20-30 seconds. The last night when we had a really bright display I was between 4 and 10 seconds. The owner of the lodge had a setup to take people's pictures in front of the displays. He was shooting with a 5D MkII, ISO1600, f/1.8 and 5-10 second exposures, briefly illuminating the group with a flashlight.

My biggest problem was getting the focus at infinity. It was very difficult to get the stars in focus through the viewfinder, and the XTi doesn't have live focus on the LCD. I tried focussing past infinity, and pulling back a bit. I got lucky and this worked for me most nights. Zooming in on a shot on the LCD screen wasn't terribly helpful either. The stars would look sharp on the display, but looked blurry when I pulled the shots off of my camera. The second night's shots all have slightly out of focus stars because of this.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

ShadeofBlue posted:

Can you really see the lights from Vancouver? I lived there for almost 6 years, and am probably going back soon. I assume you have to get out of the city to get dark enough skies? I didn't have a car before, so that was never an option, really.

Supposedly you can but it's super rare to get them that intense. Most big ones are more likely to be visible a few hours up the valley apparently. A co-worker was telling me that he did actually see them on his way home from work in Vancouver proper several years ago though so it's definitely possible.

garney
Jul 21, 2007

Saint Fu posted:

I think this is all you need to know about star trails.

Incredible! For some reason guides as in depth as this are hard to find online, thanks! Will post some photos from the trip when I get back, excited to finally be able to shoot some real night scapes.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post
Took this tonight. I'm really happy with how it came out.

ISO 200, f/5.6, 66 seconds.


Shimmer by benruset, on Flickr

Rubber Slug
Aug 7, 2010

THE BLUE DEMON RIDES AGAIN
Wow, what's the light source on that? Just sunlight reflected off clouds or something?

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post

Rubber Slug posted:

Wow, what's the light source on that? Just sunlight reflected off clouds or something?

The sky still had a hint of blue in it. The rocks were lit by the street lights and lights on the boardwalk behind me.

garney
Jul 21, 2007

Musket posted:

How much time are you finding yourself with, using this set up? Currently the most I can squeeze out of a cokin P filter ND set is about 1.5mins by stacking 8stop x2, internal X100 3stop on overcast days. Sunny days im limited to about 45-60sec.



_DSF2694-Edit.jpg by Ashade76

8stop+3stop+3stop internal ND, f/16 37seconds about 2pm on a very sunny day.

Garden of friendship by any chance? I was there just today!

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

no seriously don't post

The Docks by benruset, on Flickr
ISO 400, f/5.6, 4 sec.

Wish I could have found an angle to avoid that stupid piling in the foreground!


Clown From the Shadows by benruset, on Flickr
ISO 100, f/11, 2 sec.


Reach out and Touch Someone by benruset, on Flickr
ISO 400, f/11, 15 sec.

Musket
Mar 19, 2008

garney posted:

Garden of friendship by any chance? I was there just today!

http://www.lansugarden.org/ Located in Old Town portion of Downtown Portland Oregon.

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Kedzie
Dec 13, 2004

they all float down here
Full moon shots at 2AM.





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