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SRM posted:After doing my yearly Failed Oath on these guys in March, I finally finished this squad of Deathwing Terminators: I love these bases, did you make them yourself? I've converted a squad of these to Nurgle Terminators, going to get another couple of squads to convert into Obliterators and Mutilators (yes I know they're not 'l33t' but whatever) because gently caress paying GW £32 for 3 figures.
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Apr 15, 2013 08:57
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Nighttheii posted:
 (ah, I remember why I didn't get it earlier. Didn't have an airbrush. Not anymore  )
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Apr 15, 2013 09:46
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for painting SDE models. Love all that fire.
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Some cultist conversions. It's a stupid amount of effort put into some rather low budget models, but what can you do?   
Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Apr 15, 2013 |
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Apr 15, 2013 13:20
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krushgroove posted:I love these bases, did you make them yourself?
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Apr 15, 2013 14:26
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Asphyxious posted:Ah bugger. Still, thanks though. Yeah that's where he's from. You can pick them up on ebay easily enough. I got him for £6
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Apr 15, 2013 14:45
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Too many pictures? I have to ask, are those bases custom made? They're lovely.
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Apr 15, 2013 19:59
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ijyt posted:I have to ask, are those bases custom made? They're lovely. They're a mix of resin bases from Dragon Forge and Forgecraft. The Dragon Forge bases are nicer but cost more. The Forgecraft bases aren't bad but too many of them have "clutter" that pokes up in where you would want to glue the model.
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Apr 15, 2013 20:29
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HardCoil posted:Some cultist conversions. It's a stupid amount of effort put into some rather low budget models, but what can you do? Terrific poses there, and the plasma gun looks ace, pal. Plasma on Cultists isn't a terrible idea, either. What did you carve it from?
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Apr 15, 2013 21:49
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Thanks Plasma gun is mostly boltgun parts with a little lasgun. The front part is sculpted from procreate. They are for a skirmish game, so I have no idea if it's 40K legal
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Apr 15, 2013 22:07
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Lasguns are essentially Autoguns, Flamers are fine, but Plasma's aren't. They could easily work for count-as IG though. Is that for Death Squads?
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Apr 15, 2013 22:18
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It's for a homegrown system, that'll probably never get finished.
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Apr 15, 2013 22:41
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HardCoil posted:It's for a homegrown system, that'll probably never get finished. I would like to know more.
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Apr 15, 2013 23:27
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Babby's first ork. Finished as a proof of concept to see if my friend would want me painting his stuff. edit: I suck at taking pictures 
Purgey fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 00:40
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Looks rad. The orange, brown, and olive go together really well.
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Apr 16, 2013 00:44
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It is a good ork.
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Apr 16, 2013 00:48
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Fix posted:It is a good ork. Gork. Now paint Mork.
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Apr 16, 2013 00:54
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wrong thread  Edit: how about some content. I finished the fire figures for SDE and started working on some Firestorm Armada, these are from the Terran Alliance starter.  Still a lot of work to do. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 01:17
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These look rad as gently caress. Is Firestorm Armada fun? From What I've seen the models all look pretty cool. little space ships get me going.
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Apr 16, 2013 01:48
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Yeah its pretty good, they post their rules for free download on their site as well. http://www.spartangames.co.uk/wp/wp/wp-content/spartanimg/firestorm-armada-rulebook-download.pdf
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Apr 16, 2013 01:52
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LumberingTroll posted:wrong thread That paintjob rules. I love the minis of Firestorm Armada, clean sci-fi miniatures are refreshing when you've been painting Battlfleet Gothic stuff
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Apr 16, 2013 01:58
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I just bought one of the 'Paintier 80' organizers. It seems to get lots of recommendations and positive reviews so clearly I am an idiot because I am having a bitch of a time assembling it. Anyone who has one and can give me some step by step hints would be a real hero because right now I am pretty frustrated. Link to the product in question: http://www.paintier.com/Paintier80.html
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Apr 16, 2013 01:59
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Where are you stuck? The step by steps you are looking for are in the box. Use the correct length rod and spacers for how you want it assembled. Build from the bottom up. I even converted mine to extra capacity with a longer threaded rod from home depot
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Apr 16, 2013 02:11
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I have one too. It can be a bit of a pain because the center rod is like EXACTLY just long enough. So mine actually isn't screwed all the way tight. It's stable but I have to spin each layer separate and can't spin it by the knob.
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Apr 16, 2013 02:13
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LumberingTroll posted:wrong thread Oh man, it's missing a couple more stripes/horizontal lines for that sweet Chris Foss style (homeworld)
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Apr 16, 2013 02:22
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LumberingTroll posted:Yeah its pretty good, they post their rules for free download on their site as well. Cool, thanks. Hey, I used to play some awful 3rd person shooter with you and a bunch of other goons a few years back (cant remember the name). I remember everyone turned into a bunch of crybabies and left your guild because you were hitler or something. O goons 
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Apr 16, 2013 03:09
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JoshTheStampede posted:I have one too. It can be a bit of a pain because the center rod is like EXACTLY just long enough. So mine actually isn't screwed all the way tight. It's stable but I have to spin each layer separate and can't spin it by the knob. This is the problem I'm having. It's very wobbly and if I try to tighten it the two parts of the center rod come apart. I think I just need to leave it and try again when I'm not tired maybe.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:11
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BULBASAUR posted:Looks rad. The orange, brown, and olive go together really well. Fix posted:It is a good ork. TheCosmicMuffet posted:Gork. Thanks, fellas. Like I said, I painted him to see if my friend would like to have me help him paint his stuff. I hope he approves So, apparently, I have corrupted my little cousin in to collecting warhammer stuff at the innocent old age of 12. He asked me if I could give him ideas on how to paint his orks, so I came up with a step by step process. I didn't want it to be super complicated so I settled on a really long image format. What do you guys think?   
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Apr 16, 2013 03:12
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evenworse username posted:This is the problem I'm having. It's very wobbly and if I try to tighten it the two parts of the center rod come apart. I think I just need to leave it and try again when I'm not tired maybe. Yeah, even finished its wobbly side to side if you try to move it around or push it. It is stable enough that I can spin it and store paint on it, but I couldn't like, pick it up by the knob and carry it or anything.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:51
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Thanks for the feedback guys, always nice when other people don't think you work looks like poo poo Hixson posted:Cool, thanks. That would be Global Agenda, ah the good old days 
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Apr 16, 2013 03:58
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah, even finished its wobbly side to side if you try to move it around or push it. It is stable enough that I can spin it and store paint on it, but I couldn't like, pick it up by the knob and carry it or anything. Ok, well that's good to know too. Thanks duder.
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Apr 16, 2013 04:00
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I'm painting a bunch of orcs myself (though not so well!,) and I'm having trouble finishing my models because things aren't going the way I wanted them to when I set out. My procedure is as such: - white primer - pre-watered paints down in separate containers - paint layers until I am happy with recessed areas. In this case, skin is light green, clothing purple, and everything else is brown. - hit the raised areas with the same paint, only thicker. The green I'm using is very light, almost a GW Scorpion Green, and this process has worked wonderfully on the skin - I'm very happy with it. The darker colors are another story, though. I feel like by the time I get a solid dark color down over white primer, my plan is impossible. The models look really good for the first few coats (though obviously unfinished) and as the darker colors get filled in it just looks flatter and blander and blotchier. Where should I go from here? Get an eye dropper and mix white paint in? I wanted to avoid mixing paint, but it's starting to look like I'll have to. tl;dr Help I can only paint snotlings!
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Apr 16, 2013 04:50
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Blotchy paint makes it sounds like your transition between layers isn't smooth. That said I'd say the bigger problem, judging by your steps, is that your using your base color as your highlight and shade. Putting more layers of your base will only make the color stronger not necissarly lighter or darker. You need a way to lighten or darken that color to achieve the effect your going after. Here's some options that could work for you:
I'm pretty bad at painting so I'm sure there is an easier way to accomplish what you want!
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Apr 16, 2013 06:29
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Update on my Terran Alliance fleet.  I am not done with the base coats I need to do some detail work, the piping and a couple other bits will be yellow, like the nose of each ship. Need to do some highlighting, especially on the gray flat areas to bring out some detail. I am thinking I will dry-brush some dark metal on the cannons to help them pop out, not sure on this though, thoughts? Then I need to clean up some brush slips in various places. After that I will do engine OSL two layers of blue, then white for the centers. Then comes a gloss varnish, then some oil shading. and finally a matte varnish to top it off. so yeah, still a lot to do, but not a bad first days start on it.
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Apr 16, 2013 06:44
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BULBASAUR posted:
Like two-brush blending, or whatever it is? Can I do that with white, or should I find a lighter purple?
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Apr 16, 2013 07:44
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ineptmule posted:I would like to know more. It's an overcomplicated, spergy mess where we try to do all the things people say aren't fun in a miniatures game (realism and such). I'll make a post about it when it's a little more consistent and see if somebody wants to try it
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Apr 16, 2013 07:52
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Under 15 posted:Like two-brush blending, or whatever it is? Can I do that with white, or should I find a lighter purple? You don't need to blend on the model. You can mix some paint on a palette. Also, it's probably better to not pre-water your paints and instead thin them a drop at a time on a palette. Since day to day or model to model you may want thicker or thinner paint, so not starting from the same thinness all the time is useful.
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Apr 16, 2013 13:41
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Good interview with the Badger airbrush company owner Ken, here he's talking about the differences and similarities between the Renegade Krome and the Sotar: http://youtu.be/fVGCHlutCS4?t=8m35s if it doesn't go to the right time scan forward to 8:35 (embedding with the time code didn't work) Basically he says the Krome is more of a thick pen feel and the Sotar is more of a technical pen feel. The needle, tips, trigger parts and most of the other removeable bits are the same between the two, the size of the paint cup and the feel are the main differences between the two. I'm still watching/listening to it but some good info so far, it's specifically for wargamers so right up our alley.
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Apr 16, 2013 14:45
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Gentlemen, we live in the goodamn future! I wanted to make a new body for my contemptor dread, and since I suck at symmetry and hard lines, I tried to build it in a 3D package, together with some ammo feed chutes and other stuff. It's my first time using a modern 3D program, so the design may be a little clunky and boring. Ended up looking like this:  I just received this from Shapeways, an online 3D printing service:  The detail level is insane, the body is a about 30mm tall. Yes, you can see some tiny stepping lines and stuff, but compared to the Forge World original it actually looks a bit sharper. It's insanely hard to photograph as it's translucent and ends up looking kinda soft, but it really isn't. I'll post some more when I get it cleaned up and primed. The ammo chutes I'm planning on doing greenstuff molds for, so I can shape the belts as I want them. The triangles are guides for a 3 barrel minigun, I ended up placing the holes a bit too far out, but the principle is sound:  The round thing is a guide for drilling barrels. One end fits over a barrel, and the other fits a brass tube where the drill goes through. I need a drill that fits better, as there's too much play with the ones I have. It'll work I think. Edit: Whole thing cost me about €40, including shipping. Ordered on the 11th, got it today, the 16th. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 16:40
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Welp, time to learn 3D modelling software!
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Apr 16, 2013 16:55
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HardCoil posted:3D stuff. This is cool as hell. I also have a pair of Contemptors that need autocannon arms and I am trying to build up a pair with little success. How long are you making the guns (barrel and all)? I did a fie barrel gun but it ended up looking too small/short so I scrapped it.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:02
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