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I'm not sure, but as I'm using brass rod for the barrels, I can just try and see what works. Measuring is apparently hard, the new body does not fit on the rest of the contemptor, I totally screwed up both arm and hip joints 
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Apr 16, 2013 17:17
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Such is the path to progress. If any other kind goons have measurements for Contemptor dread autocannon arms that would be pretty cool.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:20
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Do you have measurements of the contemptor power fists? I need to build something for that too.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:23
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Huh. It looks like the quality of Shapeways has improved quite a bit. Last time I modeled/ordered something from them there were pretty sharp limits on how find the detail could be and the pieces I got had a rough, sandpaper-like finish, nothing at all like the torso piece you designed there. Maybe I should take the opportunity to model a few smaller Tau Crisis Suit heads and some Markerlight Drone kits.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:26
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Nope, the pair I got had regular dreadnought arms grafted on to them. It was pretty horrific, but they were cheap and I figured I could rehab them pretty well. I just haven't messed with them in a while but your stuff got me all excited.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:27
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That's really neat, what modelling program did you use/what do you all recommend for 3D modelling? I did a bit of AutoCAD in high school but I haven't done anything of the sort since.
my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 17:29
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Google Sketchup works pretty nicely for hard, geometric objects. I made a bunch of stuff in there for Shapeways. I tend to use that and Maya for most of my stuff.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:37
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I used max, but I think I'm going to switch to Blender. What I did is all really basic stuff, so there's no need to get into  TSR: This is the "frosted ultra detail" material.
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Apr 16, 2013 18:03
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HardCoil posted:Gentlemen, we live in the goodamn future! quote:The ammo chutes I'm planning on doing greenstuff molds for, so I can shape the belts as I want them. VVV: Ah, I was wondering how they charge for it. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 18:32
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That's a really good idea, but you pay pr. cubic centimeter of the stuff, and I think a mold type thing would get prohibitively expensive. I guess you don't have to make it solid, just a shell or a plane that you embed into something else once you get it. I'll give it a shot, it calculates cost on the fly 
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Apr 16, 2013 19:27
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The 3D modeling stuff is pretty incredible, but it turns out I am terrible at it. At least the programs I have tried to use. I did some stuff with parametric modeling stuff in school, and trying to use the non-parametric programs just messes me up. I end up getting frustrated and ragequitting projects. So I'm sticking to the old methods for now.
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Apr 16, 2013 19:42
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I just wanted to update my whine from last night - I had emailed Ben Pope, who runs the company that makes the Paintier, and he emailed me back with some helpful hints to assembling the paint rack and even offered to talk me through it on the phone tonight after he was done work if I still couldn't figure things out. As it turns out his email advice was good enough to penetrate the clouds of my dumbness and get the rack assembled. Can't say enough about how impressed I am with that kind of customer service. Of course now I have to somehow explain to my wife how it is that the brand new paint rack I bought is already full. Without copping to having too much paint, of course.
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Apr 16, 2013 21:20
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evenworse username posted:Of course now I have to somehow explain to my wife how it is that the brand new paint rack I bought is already full. Without copping to having too much paint, of course. I have actually been considering getting a second one.
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Apr 16, 2013 21:24
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Under 15 posted:Like two-brush blending, or whatever it is? Can I do that with white, or should I find a lighter purple? Mixed white will work as a highlight, but think of it this way- the more white you mix into a color the closer it will approach white. This might be desirable or it might not depending on want to do with your model. A warm white, cool white, light grey, green grey, or light green will highlight your green with different results. It’s up to you to play around and see what you like. LumberingTroll posted:Update on my Terran Alliance fleet.
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Apr 16, 2013 21:26
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BULBASAUR posted:I’m still convinced that some Chris Foss style stripes would look amazing on the yellow- a couple black or white stripes would really make it pop. As a former Homeworld player, I agree! But I also admit his ships currently have a kind of brutalist asthetic which would be ruined by striping. Playful ideas: (which totally ruin the overall look of your ships as stark naval vessels)  The one on the right looks like its on loan from Imperial Taiidan. Originality was never my strong suit
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Apr 16, 2013 22:01
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Purgey posted:Thanks, fellas. Like I said, I painted him to see if my friend would like to have me help him paint his stuff. I hope he approves I hate to see this post go un-commented. You are an awesome cousin.
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Apr 16, 2013 22:06
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. Ork Battlewagon!    Getting more comfortable with my airbrush. I used the salt technique with this one, and learned a few things in the process (wait a few hours goddamn).
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Apr 16, 2013 22:12
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Purgey posted:Thanks, fellas. Like I said, I painted him to see if my friend would like to have me help him paint his stuff. I hope he approves As someone just starting the hobby, I love the step-by-step guides like this, because I'm used to following guides and the like (maybe it all goes back to Lego). On a related topic, I've got a box of some Chaos Forsaken and I'm wondering how to paint a creamy-coloured skin like the ones they have on the box. Does anyone have any paint suggestions for how to achieve this? Also if anyone has any ideas or links for making really bloody and gross looking appendages, I'm looking to turn about half of the Forsaken into creatures from "The Thing" and need some ideas  If only I had some plastic dogs to work with...
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Apr 16, 2013 22:36
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Question for some of you guys. I'm looking to add some wintery-withered trees onto some of my models bases as part of an artic mountainous forest scheme. What the christ could I use for these? They're 28mm PP minis, I was thinking maybe sticks and twigs, dried out for that scale?
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Apr 17, 2013 00:47
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Weirdo posted:As someone just starting the hobby, I love the step-by-step guides like this, because I'm used to following guides and the like (maybe it all goes back to Lego). Grey-toned violet skin, violet+brown shadows, a little cream/bone mixed with the flesh color for highlights. Reaper's Dark Elf Skin triad shaded with Devlan Mud or Agrax Earthshade would probably give you similar results. edit: or not, the unit all together looks way more purple than the individual models. Try a grey-toned cream color (Reaper Aged Bone) for the basecoat, instead of grey-toned violet. Silhouette fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 03:07
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JoshTheStampede posted:I have actually been considering getting a second one. See this is perfect. Now I can go with "Well you know, most people have two."
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Apr 17, 2013 03:10
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Here's what I've been working on recently: Some Tau dudebros because I've never painted anything 40k before and with the new release I decided it was time to get some robotanimes.  And started a Marauders of Chaos warband for Mordheim. Fatboy is the Chieftain, the other two are champions. I painted the one on the right forever ago, and tried to match the armor color, but the left one came out a bit dark, but whatever, it's Nurgle!     
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Apr 17, 2013 03:14
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Silhouette posted:Grey-toned violet skin, violet+brown shadows, a little cream/bone mixed with the flesh color for highlights. Reaper's Dark Elf Skin triad shaded with Devlan Mud or Agrax Earthshade would probably give you similar results. Thanks! I'll give it a try.
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Apr 17, 2013 03:55
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Slimnoid posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread. Ork Battlewagon! How is this not quoted yet? Fantastic work, nice and dirty without overpowering the natural blue colors of the vehicle. Also sweet skull on the front! 
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Apr 17, 2013 05:25
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Flipswitch posted:Question for some of you guys. I'm looking to add some wintery-withered trees onto some of my models bases as part of an artic mountainous forest scheme. What the christ could I use for these? They're 28mm PP minis, I was thinking maybe sticks and twigs, dried out for that scale? Yeah the best thing for tiny trees is tiny bits of trees. Just go shuffle around the base of a tree and pick up a collection of sticks. Also look for different types of moss - they can be used to make amazing looking foliage, ivy, etc. Just put them all on a paper towel and put that on a radiator.
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Apr 17, 2013 12:29
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Slimnoid posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread. Ork Battlewagon! Thats some pretty drat sweet looking Ork gubbins. I am still trying to get to grips with my airbrush. Just a WIP shot. The pose should look better when he has his arms on there but this is the first time I have put effort into a base. The paint needs tidying up as well but he should be finished in the next couple of days. 
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Apr 17, 2013 13:20
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Slimnoid posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread. Ork Battlewagon! This is awesome. Do you have a link to a guide or anything about the salt technique? I'm having a bear of a time weathering my tanks with a piece of sponge, it's just not looking correct.
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Apr 17, 2013 13:40
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Zhent posted:This is awesome. Do you have a link to a guide or anything about the salt technique? I'm having a bear of a time weathering my tanks with a piece of sponge, it's just not looking correct. http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2011/02/tutorial-weathering-with-salt.html This was the tutorial I used. Now mind, I didn't have any hair spray, so I just applied water and sprinkled the sand on. It does the trick well enough, just be sure not to add a lot of water to it; damp an old brush and brush the water on. Also, when removing the salt, don't use too much warm water, as I had the problem of some paint coming off that I didn't want to. As for sponge weathering, the trick I've found is to be very light with it. Apply in layers, and turn the sponge a different direction each time so it isn't so uniform. Two layers ought to do the trick.
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Apr 17, 2013 14:22
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I see you magnetized the arms on the broadside. How well does changing the missile and rail gun work on the new kit? Im afraid the positioning will work weird for the other style gun. What I mean is, if I have it leaning back and turned for the rail gun position, will it looks bad if I switch it out for the missiles?
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Apr 17, 2013 15:32
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Khorne Flakes posted:I see you magnetized the arms on the broadside. How well does changing the missile and rail gun work on the new kit? Im afraid the positioning will work weird for the other style gun. What I mean is, if I have it leaning back and turned for the rail gun position, will it looks bad if I switch it out for the missiles? It depends what the arm elevation is. I have primarily posed it for the gun but the missiles work as well   I still dont like the pose but whats done is done.
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Apr 17, 2013 16:00
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Is your camo simply: 1)Light Base coat 2)Blue tac 3)Darker Second coat 4)Done
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Apr 17, 2013 16:11
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Indolent Bastard posted:Is your camo simply: Even simpler, 1) Primer 2) Blue Tac 3) Darker Colour 4) Done
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Apr 17, 2013 16:18
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Are you going to shade it or just keep it as is?
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Apr 17, 2013 17:44
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As is, cant be bothered to do the shading.
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Apr 17, 2013 18:46
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:As is, cant be bothered to do the shading. Looks great to be honest.
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Apr 17, 2013 19:17
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:As is, cant be bothered to do the shading. Try an oil wash. If you hate it, it comes off easy enough.
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Apr 17, 2013 19:38
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Sole.Sushi posted:Try an oil wash. If you hate it, it comes off easy enough. I know there are probably dozens, but is a best yet concise tutorial for oil washing?
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Apr 17, 2013 21:44
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Its super easy. Get an oil paint, put it on a pallet, and water it down with white spirit. Then brush it on with a synthetic brush. Wait for it to dry and then use either a brush, sponge, or qtip with white spirit to take it off from the raised surfaces you don't want it on. When you’re done seal with some type of varnish (acrylic paints have a hard time going over oil based ones). Here’s a pretty good video. It also explains pin washes. Purgey posted:As a former Homeworld player, I agree! But I also admit his ships currently have a kind of brutalist asthetic which would be ruined by striping. Now that’s what I’m talking about! I really dig it. Especially the one on the right with all the non-symmetric lines. It certainly isn’t the utilitarian space ship look, but hey, space is black anyway so you might as well paint things crazy colors. Weathered and stifled down with an oil wash it could look really ace. Obviously do what you want
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Apr 17, 2013 23:29
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Hey guys what's the best place to order the Minitaure paint? I'm in the US. Everywhere I look it's outta stock!
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Apr 18, 2013 00:10
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey guys what's the best place to order the Minitaure paint? I'm in the US. Everywhere I look it's outta stock! The video I posted yesterday has the owner of Badger saying that they're ramping up production with extra machines, they were caught out by the demand but all suppliers are getting their orders, but if you order now it might be a few weeks before you get your paint. To be honest it's good (in my limited experience) but not necessarily better than thinning down your normal paint. The Ghost Tints are really cool, definitely order the set of those, but the main advantage of the regular line is that they are just ready to spray right out of the airbrush.
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Apr 18, 2013 00:24
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