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phootnote posted:On another topic, what is everyone running suspension wise for DD? http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve_NA_NB.htm or http://949racing.com/xida-club-sport-coilover-miata.aspx Anything lower end and you're probably better off sticking with the factory shocks and giving them some stiffer springs. Don't buy the spec Miata setup, it's too hard for a DD and not the best when you're not restricted to only that. I've personally used the FCM shocks and they're really good, no worries about bumps and super predictable in turns. craig588 fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 08:13
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 22:45 |
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Snap! 
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Apr 18, 2013 14:49
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craig588 posted:http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve_NA_NB.htm or http://949racing.com/xida-club-sport-coilover-miata.aspx Oh... I was looking at getting KYB AGX coupled with the lowering springs the previous owner has on the car. Are the KYB's a bad idea, and I should just save for either the FCM or 949? phootnote fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 14:52
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Just slapped on my AC/PS and Alt/Waterpump belts. Once I got a new bolt for the tensioner block it was a cakewalk, I could probably do that job in 20 minutes or less now. List of things I'd still like to do so I can take it to the track: Fuel filter Hawk Pads Coolant flush (should I use water wetter and distilled or just premix?) Direzza Star Specs Hard dog or comparable roll bar - do any of these work with a glass softtop? Gut interior Seat+harness/HANS Weld some patch panels on rocker panel rust Possibly new swaybars/coilovers Remove power steering and aircon If anyone wants to help I'm in Albany and have a non-powered 2 car garage!
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Apr 18, 2013 15:21
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phootnote posted:Oh... I was looking at getting KYB AGX coupled with the lowering springs the previous owner has on the car. Are the KYB's a bad idea, and I should just save for either the FCM or 949? Well that depends on how much you want to spend and how much you actually care. KYB's are fine if you're broke and absolutely need new shocks, but if you care at all about the car handling up to it's potential they are crap, and so is pretty much any setup under $1k. I'm in the same predicament, I need new shocks badly, but I refuse to go the cheap route so I gotta wait until I can afford a set of FCM's or Xidas.
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Apr 18, 2013 16:04
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I wish I could find a good condition, decent priced NA Miata in Toronto  woe is me, I'll never own one
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Apr 18, 2013 16:09
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jcutner posted:I wish I could find a good condition, decent priced NA Miata in Toronto They aren't impossible to find outside of TO. It's also a bad idea this time of the year.
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Apr 18, 2013 16:11
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:They aren't impossible to find outside of TO. It's also a bad idea this time of the year. When *is* a good time of year? Before winter?
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Apr 18, 2013 17:01
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Yeah, late fall through winter is good. Nobody buys a RWD convertible in those months, and people want to get them gone.
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Apr 18, 2013 17:27
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I bought mine on literally the first day of winter and ended up getting used to driving it on the highway in a blizzard with (I later found out) one directional winter tire on the rear mounted backwards.
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Apr 18, 2013 17:33
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I bought mine late October, and it was the first time I'd ever driven a manual. My brother and I proceeded to drive it 6-7 hours home through a snowstorm with balding summer tires and no heat/defroster. It was a lot of fun and I don't regret it for a moment.
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Apr 18, 2013 17:50
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It seems that right now in TO you have two options, a garage queen for ten grand or goode olde rusty for five. Depending on what you consider cheap, there is always a way to fix them up. A positive outlook on life is also very helpful when discovering PO fixes.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:04
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leica posted:Well that depends on how much you want to spend and how much you actually care. KYB's are fine if you're broke and absolutely need new shocks, but if you care at all about the car handling up to it's potential they are crap, and so is pretty much any setup under $1k. Well looks like I will be saving then. Can any suspension shop install it? If I do decide to install it myself, about how long does it take for someone with no experience to do?
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Apr 18, 2013 20:14
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Honestly, what ended up working for me is looking at enthusiast-owned cars. Mine was a former track car and then an autocross car and it's pretty ragged but it was sold at a good value with tons of spares. I would start checking the local autocross/racing forums for a good example and be prepared to wait.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:14
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I think getting a near stock one would be best. You can drive it down and then upgrade as needed. By the time upgrading is needed, you will have an idea of what you are looking for in upgrades.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:17
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It takes about 90 minutes to do all 4 corners. Getting the ride height correct will take a lot more time.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:20
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phootnote posted:Well looks like I will be saving then. Can any suspension shop install it? If I do decide to install it myself, about how long does it take for someone with no experience to do? It's not that difficult if you're mechanically inclined and already do any kind of maintenance to your car, if you take your time the first time around you should be able to knock it out in a weekend or less.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:23
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phootnote posted:I think getting a near stock one would be best. You can drive it down and then upgrade as needed. By the time upgrading is needed, you will have an idea of what you are looking for in upgrades. 99% of Miatas for sale are stock. Most common upgrades include chrome gas cover, style bar, and hot air intake. On the same car you'll get factory original plugs and wires, timing belt, shocks.
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Apr 18, 2013 22:05
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jcutner posted:I wish I could find a good condition, decent priced NA Miata in Toronto I bought a '99 NB in July of 2011 in Pickering, with: -126k kms -Hardtop included -9 year old mostly bald allseasons -in need of timing belt/water pump/fluids changed -Two tiny amounts of rust on the trunk lid (which are now larger amounts of rust. New trunk lid is on the list of things for either this year or next...) For $7500. I figure it was a pretty good deal, it was up on craigslist with horrible pictures listed at $8800. It went up on Friday, the seller was away for the weekend, I bought it the day he got back. It was parked on his front lawn, so I went and checked it out over the weekend. My dad test drove it the day the seller got back (I don't live in TO anymore, but family is there) and I bought it within the hour. An hour after I bought it, a guy from Montreal showed up with $8K cash in hand, and tried to buy it out from under me, but thankfully the seller was honest. There were 8 other people who had scheduled to come see the car over the next two days - 3 from Ottawa, one from Cornwall, one from Niagara area... My point being, look outside Toronto and be prepared to drive a ways to see/purchase.
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Apr 18, 2013 23:06
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TrueChaos posted:I bought a '99 NB in July of 2011 in Pickering, with: wow, that's quite a good deal! i'm in courtice to begin with, which is next to oshawa - so a place like pickering isn't far at all. i'd be willing to travel too but the NAs seem to hover around $5k to start this time of year
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Apr 18, 2013 23:56
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So I think I have a random misfire going on, last week at work when I went to go home, started it up and it ran like it was on three cylinders. Turned it off and let it sit for a bit and it fired right up fine. Now it's doing it again but letting it sit aint fixing it this time, I unplugged all the plug wires and put them back in hoping there was a bad connection but no dice. The wires are only about a year old and the plugs are brand new. Is my coil hosed? If so how do I tell for sure? I can smell gas pretty strong out the exhaust so there must be a cylinder not firing.....Also can I drive it home in that state or is it a bad idea? [edit] An hour later and it runs fine what the gently caress 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Apr 19, 2013 |
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Apr 19, 2013 03:51
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Turns out my no-start issue was indeed the fuel pump. I replaced it and the car started right up (with horrible lifter tick from sitting for so long, though). What's currently fashionable for oil choice in a N/A 1.6 these days? I understand Mobil 1 is not what it used to be.
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Apr 19, 2013 12:56
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leica posted:So I think I have a random misfire going on, last week at work when I went to go home, started it up and it ran like it was on three cylinders. Turned it off and let it sit for a bit and it fired right up fine. Now it's doing it again but letting it sit aint fixing it this time, I unplugged all the plug wires and put them back in hoping there was a bad connection but no dice. The wires are only about a year old and the plugs are brand new. Is my coil hosed? If so how do I tell for sure? I can smell gas pretty strong out the exhaust so there must be a cylinder not firing.....Also can I drive it home in that state or is it a bad idea? It sounds like a dying coil to me, if you can catch it when it's acting up find which plug isn't sparking and swap a known good lead & plug onto that connector, see if it's still not sparking. If you keep driving it'll eventually kill your catalyst. They are dead easy to change as long as you don't have truckasaurus hands, some PO of my car even left out the slightly awkward lower bolt when they did a previous coil. 
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Apr 19, 2013 13:10
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phootnote posted:I used the 93 fuel. If I use the regular unlead, I will see a difference in mpg. I did not know it made a difference on mpg. I am use to driving on the cheapest I could find. I know this was awhile ago, but if you mean 87 octane when you say "regular unleaded" that's because '01+ Miatas require Premium.
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Apr 19, 2013 14:00
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8th-samurai posted:I know this was awhile ago, but if you mean 87 octane when you say "regular unleaded" that's because '01+ Miatas require Premium. Yes, 87octane. I have read that some people will use 87octane until the engine starts to knock, and then they switch to premium the rest of the life of the car. What are the affects of using lower grade fuel besides lower gas mileage?
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Apr 19, 2013 14:27
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Does anyone know of any motorweek/motortrend/whatever videos of the NA miata being reviewed when it was new? I'd love to have something like that to watch. Or even a dealership training video. All i've seen is the Old top gear announcement that it was being released, and they didnt really go into detail.
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Apr 19, 2013 15:42
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phootnote posted:Yes, 87octane. I have read that some people will use 87octane until the engine starts to knock, and then they switch to premium the rest of the life of the car. What are the affects of using lower grade fuel besides lower gas mileage? You'll likely end up with less power because the ECU will pull the ignition timing to try and control the knocking. Long term there's a chance you'll gently caress up something expensive, knocking increases your combustion temps and creates wild pressure spikes in the cylinder. Do it hard enough and you can pre-ignite the charge mix and really do some damage. Just put in what the owner's manual asks for, nothing more, nothing less.
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Apr 19, 2013 16:08
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jammyozzy posted:It sounds like a dying coil to me, if you can catch it when it's acting up find which plug isn't sparking and swap a known good lead & plug onto that connector, see if it's still not sparking. If you keep driving it'll eventually kill your catalyst. It only ran for a few minutes the two times it did it, so I think the cat will be fine. Is there a way to test the coils? I really don't want to wait for it to happen again. If I have to I'll just replace both of them, if one is going chances are the other isn't very far behind. [e] Looks like you have to buy them in pairs anyway, at least on rockauto. [edit] Seriously thinking about COP conversion, and searching about it in Miata.net it came up that Savington makes them, is this accurate? Anyone have experience with the conversion? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Apr 19, 2013 |
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Apr 19, 2013 16:53
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Konrad posted:What's currently fashionable for oil choice in a N/A 1.6 these days? I understand Mobil 1 is not what it used to be. Is this really the case? The PO of my Miata put in some 10w-30 M1 right before I bought it. I understand there's a lot different variables, but my idle can be a little rough and lifter noise can be baaaaad on some cold starts. I was hoping to switch to 0w-30 M1 next oil change and see if that changes anything.
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Apr 19, 2013 23:41
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I'm planning on trying Rotella next oil change. Just have to find it in something other than 15-40 weight 5L jugs. Suppose to help with lifter noise.
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Apr 19, 2013 23:47
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Their 5w-40 synthetic version is really well regarded amongst motorcyclists. Affordable, too.
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Apr 20, 2013 01:12
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AF posted:Their 5w-40 synthetic version is really well regarded amongst motorcyclists. Affordable, too. Yup, my oil of choice in the supercharged 1.6L. Its so clean I think it ate my CAS o-ring.
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Apr 20, 2013 04:12
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Rotella T6 is the current go to for track Miatas. If you burn a lot of oil it'll be a bit rougher on your cat than a regular oil.
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Apr 20, 2013 05:23
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Hi my name is Ives and I bought another miata. 97 Canadian speedster edition with 125k miles and a hardtop. It joins my 92, which now has to go. I'll post more details my thread later with pictures, for now I'd appreciate any help with the following questions: = 92 has bilstein pss9 on it, while 97 ha the original Mazda shocks. Is it worthwhile to swap them? Or leave them on 92 and get more money for it? = 92 has a black hard top in ok shape with headliner and defroster. 97 has defroster colormatched to the car but last week PO lost it on the road, now it has a shitload of scratches, a crack on the side, and a broken off left mount for the Frankenstein bolt. The remaining mount is different from the one on black hard top, it has a top cover that swings off to the side. Can I find a replacement mount like that somewhere? Is it even possible to replace those mounts on a hard top?
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Apr 21, 2013 02:51
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Previa_fun posted:My fuel gauge is decidedly non linear but more in a normal car non linear way. drat son. Wasn't it the '99 that first had the low fuel light? I've gone ~50 miles with the light on so I figure it's a pretty conservative warning.
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Apr 22, 2013 05:25
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dpidz0r posted:My 2001 has no fuel light as far as I've been able to tell (unless the bulb is burnt out and the light is very well camouflaged with the rest of the instrument cluster) Half of my interior lighting is burned out so don't discount this as a possibility.  Seriously I have never had instrument cluster bulbs burn out until I had this car. I've read references to FoMoCo bulbs of the era not lasting long...was the Miata a casualty?
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Apr 22, 2013 09:46
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There is no gas light.
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Apr 22, 2013 12:49
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Are Ohlins the upper class of of middle level suspension before race setups? What is a recommended weight range for suspension setups for front and rear on the a daily driver?
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Apr 22, 2013 14:50
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Buy Fatcats or Xidas. e: you asked the same thing on this page. Call Shaikh.
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Apr 22, 2013 15:42
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 22:45 |
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Just wanna say I'm not impressed with the fit of Robbins tops, but I kinda knew that going in. Guess I can't complain for $400. And oh yeah my car got backed into by some drunk idiot YAY.
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Apr 22, 2013 16:53
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