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Terrible Robot posted:Decided to really listen to all the rattles, whines and squeaks the '99 Forester makes last night. Barely audible over the transmission whine (pretty sure that one's an input bearing) was what sounded like a distant helicopter, seemed to be coming from the center tunnel. Am I correct in thinking this means the U-joints are toast and it's new prop-shaft time or is there something else it could be? There's a ton of slop in the drivetrain from presumably completely worn bushings throughout the car as well. Subarus dont use ujoints, they use cv joints. You're looking at new halfshalfs, they're 40 bucks on rock auto. As for bushings, turn in concepts make awesome stuff, you burn out the old ones and just place in the new ones, no need to press them in. If you go cheaper oem, they're harder to put in. Do motor mount, transmission mount, and trailing arm bushings and you'll have a tight car. Trailing arm is my favorite mod of all time.
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Apr 21, 2013 01:50
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If one installed 05+ STi control arms into an 02 Wagon, thus widening the front track but leaving the rear alone, would this cause problems? I'm thinking of doing something terrible.. Or awesome, to the race-car in progress. I just want to know how well this would work, so.. CT? Jamal?
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Apr 21, 2013 02:10
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It would cause all good things. They need to be 04-06 usdm sti or jdm spec-c arms for the extra caster.
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Apr 21, 2013 02:20
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People locally have swapped for sedan arms and had no problems. I went with JDM GC STI control arms in order to maintain the wagon track and make my life miserable trying to source an unbent pair. Given the choice again I would opt for USDM GD STI sedan arms.
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Apr 21, 2013 05:30
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Do you also need the sedan axles to go with the arms or do the wagon ones reach?
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Apr 21, 2013 05:41
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The wagon ones reach and appear to have no problems doing so. At the time it seemed like it was more of a risk so I went with the narrower-track arms.
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Apr 21, 2013 05:45
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I have never heard of it being a problem and people have been doing it for a long time. The difference is 10mm per side, but add a bit of camber and a little lowering and the actual difference ends up less than that. My idea back when I was responsible for making a car go fast was custom control arms that were even wider than the sedan and longer axles. Sort of like what the cusco/voltex car did.
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Apr 21, 2013 06:07
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I just cracked 1000 miles on my WRX, and I am definitely considering getting an accessport. The only thing I am concerned about is getting one so early (the car is just over a month old), and possibly running into warranty issues. Worth taking the risk? The only thing I've done to it so far is a catback, so I'd be running stage 1 for the foreseeable future.
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Apr 21, 2013 06:16
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Totally TWISTED posted:Autozone and competitors will pull the code(s) for free so do that. Everyone always says this, but I have been to many autozones and the like here in California and they all insist they won't pull it for free, never have never will. Has anyone ever actually had this done?
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Apr 21, 2013 06:16
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Rontalvos posted:Everyone always says this, but I have been to many autozones and the like here in California and they all insist they won't pull it for free, never have never will. Has anyone ever actually had this done? I had a code pulled on my Miata last year at an Advanced Auto Parts for free, all I did was walk in and ask.
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Apr 21, 2013 06:18
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Rontalvos posted:Everyone always says this, but I have been to many autozones and the like here in California and they all insist they won't pull it for free, never have never will. Has anyone ever actually had this done? Is a California thing. It is loving stupid, they blame CARB, but I think they just want to sell a code scanner. What really is criminal is that the AP doesn't have a functional code scanner.
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Apr 21, 2013 06:26
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Rontalvos posted:Everyone always says this, but I have been to many autozones and the like here in California and they all insist they won't pull it for free, never have never will. Has anyone ever actually had this done? If that's a Cali thing as nm says that blows but I've pulled at multiple shops over multiple years across Tennessee v  v
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Apr 21, 2013 06:34
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MrZig posted:If one installed 05+ STi control arms into an 02 Wagon, thus widening the front track but leaving the rear alone, would this cause problems? Awesome. Then do the free castor mod.
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Apr 21, 2013 06:45
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The reason I've been given in Cali is that you could use the tool to reset the ECU temporarily before going in for emissions testing. Which is BS but it's valid as far as bureaucracy is concerned.
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Apr 21, 2013 06:54
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Rontalvos posted:Everyone always says this, but I have been to many autozones and the like here in California and they all insist they won't pull it for free, never have never will. Has anyone ever actually had this done?
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Apr 21, 2013 11:24
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They stopped doing the rentals sometime in the past few years in California.
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Apr 21, 2013 13:28
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Sorry to post this in this thread and not some 'buying advice' thread but I'm very seriously considering picking up this 1998 STI Type RA and as this is not your typical soob I was hoping to get advice from anyone familiar with them as far as what I should be looking at when I go take a look. The seller has sold many JDM vehicles on that site and has an excellent reputation. I'm still waiting to see some interior/engine bay pictures. I've had a car without sound deadening before, not too worried about that, and it's kinda a fun addition. Anyone heard anything about these vehicles??
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Apr 21, 2013 19:34
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We have a few Type RAs booting around in Alberta and I've had the privilege of driving a handful of them. They are sublime cars if you can get over the RHD-ness of them (I couldn't, outside of using them as a dedicated motorsports vehicle). There are some one-off parts that don't appear to make it to other Imprezas (the rear axles appear to have a different mounting method and possibly spline count than the conventional Impreza rollpin design). The roof vent is super nice when rallycrossing with a helmet on and the cars feel surprisingly solid for a GC. Looks like that one has aftermarket gauges attached to the dashboard so check out the wiring and make sure it was done properly. If it's a mechanical oil pressure gauge I would recommend not running a tube full of pressurized hot oil into the cockpit and replacing it with an electrical one. White seems to be the most common colour for JDMs here so it will be easy to replace that door skin if you don't want to have it PDR'd. I'm a bit suspicious that the steering wheel is visibly worn at 123k km - that and the seats (which are also worn, apparently) are two of the first things I look at on a JDM import to see if the odometer might have been rolled back at the port. I have a '97 Impreza daily driver with 350k km on it and the steering wheel still looks factory perfect. Opt for a compression/leakdown test as part of the inspection. Private insurers in AB and other provinces are clamping down on new JDM registrations - you might want to check to make sure that ICBC will support you if you buy this car, and to what extent. I know that you effectively cannot get collision or comprehensive coverage here. A stated-value policy (if possible with ICBC) might be a smart move. Dibs on those wheels if you don't want 'em. I have some OEM 15" JDM WRX wheels that are closer to what an RA would've been sold with. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Apr 21, 2013 |
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Apr 21, 2013 19:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:We have a few Type RAs booting around in Alberta and I've had the privilege of driving a handful of them. They are sublime cars if you can get over the RHD-ness of them (I couldn't, outside of using them as a dedicated motorsports vehicle). Thank you very much for the quick reply. My main concern is the electronically controlled centre diff; how reliable are these? I imagine it's a nightmare when they start to fail - do you know if it's possible to swap in a wrx 5spd tranny in that event? I would think it's the standard bellhousing. It would indeed be used for a lot of autox and possibly occasionally on the track.
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Apr 21, 2013 19:51
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DCCD in the 6-speeds (like everything else in the 6-speeds) is rock solid. I've yet to hear of a DCCD failure in the 5-speed cars and at 123,000 km I doubt anything in there is worn out or has been driven hard enough to die yet. Usually if the controller stops working the transmission just locks to a default torque split which is still going to put you on the same standing as any other WRX. The DCCD 5-speed has the same bellhousing as any other EJ transmission and you should be able to keep it alive with another 4.44 5-speed transmission (of which few exist - Type RA, USDM Forester XT, maybe one of the NA cars) or swap both the diff and transmission to a 3.9 or 4.11 or something which is much more common. My suggestion would be to find a JDM or USDM 6-speed with DCCD and install that with a MapDCCD or DCCDPro third-party controller. With a WRX 5-speed swap you'll lose the helical front diff in favour of an open. There's a Type RA on my daily commute which has been slammed to rubbing and is worn by a sideways-hat retard who makes what I would generously describe as estimates of lane changes, so definitely use the car for competition. It's what it wants. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 21, 2013 |
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Apr 21, 2013 19:53
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Slow is Fast posted:Subarus dont use ujoints, they use cv joints. You're looking at new halfshalfs, they're 40 bucks on rock auto. Don't they have u-joints for the actual driveshaft to the rear differential? The thunking is constant and only gets worse with increased speed, turns don't seem to affect it which made me dismiss the half-shafts, plus all the CV boots are intact. Gonna throw it on a lift tomorrow, maybe I'll spot something. Thanks for the advice on the bushings, going to do them the same time as the headgaskets, which have held on (barely) for 261k miles.
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Apr 21, 2013 21:07
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Terrible Robot posted:Don't they have u-joints for the actual driveshaft to the rear differential? The thunking is constant and only gets worse with increased speed, turns don't seem to affect it which made me dismiss the half-shafts, plus all the CV boots are intact. Gonna throw it on a lift tomorrow, maybe I'll spot something. Yeah the driveshaft probably has a ujoint. Dunno, I never really look at mine, just pop the 6 bolts that hold it in and throw it outside.
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Apr 21, 2013 21:34
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There is a Propeller Shaft that is like a million dollars.
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Apr 21, 2013 21:35
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry to post this in this thread and not some 'buying advice' thread but I'm very seriously considering picking up this 1998 STI Type RA and as this is not your typical soob I was hoping to get advice from anyone familiar with them as far as what I should be looking at when I go take a look. The seller has sold many JDM vehicles on that site and has an excellent reputation. I'm still waiting to see some interior/engine bay pictures. If it's in good condition and if you dont mind driving a literal rally car with number plates then..... oh gently caress yes you want that car. They are the best regular model GC and plenty of what came on a RA crossed over to the 22B They are the actual homologation car for WRC as well so you get all the good things other than lack of weight. It's basically as good as a GC gets. They are a barrel of laughs to drive. I'd be careful of it's condition and second what Seat Safety Switch said. It's rare and good enough you could put up with some minor problems and fix it but be aware specific RA parts are very scarce if you need them.
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Apr 21, 2013 21:42
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Cat Terrist posted:If it's in good condition and if you dont mind driving a literal rally car with number plates then..... oh gently caress yes you want that car. They are the best regular model GC and plenty of what came on a RA crossed over to the 22B They are the actual homologation car for WRC as well so you get all the good things other than lack of weight. It's basically as good as a GC gets. They are a barrel of laughs to drive. Thanks everyone for the advice. He also has a legit stock V-LTD with low KM's that I'll be checking out. It's exciting (555 made) but not sure if it's worth the extra money just for the rarity. He mentioned he'd want around 8k for it but I haven't even seen pics.
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Apr 21, 2013 22:23
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Hello again Subaru thread, need some tech support on an '03 WRX. Was having a cooling issue and suspected the rad fans weren't going. I turned the car on battery with the A/C on and neither fan were running. When I let the car warm up to operating temp at no point does either fan turn on. The fans turn freely by hand otherwise. I also discovered that the A/C compressor is not working. All fuses are fine, I also swapped some relays around but it didn't make a difference, didn't test them exactly but I don't expect all 5 to fail at once. I haven't run the A/C since last summer but it worked fine then. Is there anything I'm missing that could cause both these things to stop working? Would I learn anything valuable in just bypassing the relays?
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Apr 21, 2013 23:07
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Synonamess Botch posted:Hello again Subaru thread, need some tech support on an '03 WRX. Was having a cooling issue and suspected the rad fans weren't going. I turned the car on battery with the A/C on and neither fan were running. When I let the car warm up to operating temp at no point does either fan turn on. The fans turn freely by hand otherwise. I also discovered that the A/C compressor is not working. All fuses are fine, I also swapped some relays around but it didn't make a difference, didn't test them exactly but I don't expect all 5 to fail at once. I haven't run the A/C since last summer but it worked fine then. Is there anything I'm missing that could cause both these things to stop working? Would I learn anything valuable in just bypassing the relays? You'd see if the motor for the fans is burnt out. I'd do it. E: I'd check thermostat also and grounds.
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Apr 21, 2013 23:15
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Synonamess Botch posted:Hello again Subaru thread, need some tech support on an '03 WRX. Was having a cooling issue and suspected the rad fans weren't going. I turned the car on battery with the A/C on and neither fan were running. When I let the car warm up to operating temp at no point does either fan turn on. The fans turn freely by hand otherwise. I also discovered that the A/C compressor is not working. All fuses are fine, I also swapped some relays around but it didn't make a difference, didn't test them exactly but I don't expect all 5 to fail at once. I haven't run the A/C since last summer but it worked fine then. Is there anything I'm missing that could cause both these things to stop working? Would I learn anything valuable in just bypassing the relays? My 2006 Impreza wagon was doing this. Unplug the jumper on top of the AC compressor and see if the fans work. Mine did, but not sure 
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Apr 22, 2013 00:24
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I had the same problem with my 04 wrx wagon. Refrigerant leaked out and the compressor will not run with no pressure.
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Apr 22, 2013 02:08
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I had the same problem with my 04 wrx wagon. Refrigerant leaked out and the compressor will not run with no pressure. I figured that's what happened. I was running defrost the entire ride home when it happened to me. If your fans kick on when you unplug your AC, I'd be getting your levels checked. I still have to do that. I've just left my jumper unplugged ontop the compressor. 
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Apr 22, 2013 02:20
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I unplugged the A/C compressor but no difference. However when I bypassed the relays, both fan motors are working fine. For now I'm going to assume the A/C has its own separate problem and try replacing the coolant temp sensor.
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Apr 22, 2013 19:18
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I HATE PINK BIKES posted:Thanks, but neither of those exist here in Scotland and also I don't have a smartphone. I guess the car's fine to drive for the next few days while I wait for an OBD2 reader arrive from Amazon? Thank you £10 Chinese OBD2 reader from Amazon you are amazing. Code P0420, something to do with the rear exhaust sensor reading cat issues. I have a Scorpion cat-back which I guess is probably related. Pretty sure I've got the two front cats at the moment, though I'll be down to one when I finally get the uppipe decat in.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:35
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Well, the STi went in for an inspection today, there was no evidence of leaking around the engine bay. So it's an oil change and back for a check up in 1000 miles. ...thoughts? edit: the internet seems to believe a quart of oil is normal between oil changes, but as my third Subaru, I have never seen consumption like this. burtonos fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 22, 2013 23:43
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VelociBacon posted:Thanks everyone for the advice. He also has a legit stock V-LTD with low KM's that I'll be checking out. It's exciting (555 made) but not sure if it's worth the extra money just for the rarity. He mentioned he'd want around 8k for it but I haven't even seen pics. So I went and checked this out today and actually put a deposit on it, absolutely amazing condition 98 WRX STI Type-RA V-Limited #544/555, 79xxx km, 100% completely stock. Went for a test drive and was super impressed. Pulls extremely hard, stock suspension tuning is amazing, booted it over speedbumps that I have to slow down for in my truck. Only defect in exterior is a small chip in the corner lens, and the interior is 8/10. I'm excited! Fun bonus: Comes stock with automatic intercooler water spray and driver-controlled-center-differential, this one also had the steering ratio increased from factory.  
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Apr 23, 2013 02:11
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That's a hot car and I want it desperately. Look up the coilpack mod and swap to 02+ WRX COPs (as with all JDMs) or you're going to be in misfire hell soon, though.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:24
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The fact that Subaru refuses to bring homologation chassises to the US is cruel and unusual.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:32
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VelociBacon posted:So I went and checked this out today and actually put a deposit on it, absolutely amazing condition 98 WRX STI Type-RA V-Limited #544/555, 79xxx km, 100% completely stock. Went for a test drive and was super impressed. Pulls extremely hard, stock suspension tuning is amazing, booted it over speedbumps that I have to slow down for in my truck. Only defect in exterior is a small chip in the corner lens, and the interior is 8/10. I'm excited! Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo If the price is right, that's a hell of a car. In the GC you could ONLY do better with a 22B or the RA-R from the factory. Chews up and spits out other younger STI's as well. I think you are going to love that car to bits
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Apr 23, 2013 02:38
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Cat Terrist posted:Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Price is 8k CAD. The guy selling it is an ex professional driver from (no poo poo) the USSR who brings over 3-5 GC's at a time. Super nice guy and very active in the Subaru community locally. Edit: Seat Safety Switch posted:That's a hot car and I want it desperately. Look up the coilpack mod and swap to 02+ WRX COPs (as with all JDMs) or you're going to be in misfire hell soon, though. Thanks for this, I'll look around.
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Apr 23, 2013 03:03
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Ohhhhhhh my gawd. What a glorious car.
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Apr 23, 2013 03:20
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If that's a 1998 I guess that means the 22B is legal for import now as well too, huh? 
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Apr 23, 2013 03:24
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