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Alright! Time to ask a dumb question. I'm trying to find a particular artist that I on,y glimpsed for the briefest moment. Basically my tutor showed us a bunch of paintings, and one of them was of a guy who painted hyper-realistically, but with this weird blur effect where it looked like he'd overlaid several portraits of the same person but in different poses, so it looked full of movement and like he'd compressed a thirty second film clip into one picture. It was awesome and something I'd really like to try if I could just find the guy in the first place. I don't even know where to begin when it comes to GISing the dude. If anyone has any idea what I'm talking about, of knows of pictures similar to that, I'd appreciate it. I'd love to do something like that for my final project, but if I can't, it's back to boring bloody landscapes again :/ Thanks!
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Mar 30, 2013 06:41
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| # ? May 10, 2024 11:54 |
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Is there a non-fiction critique thread around? I volunteered for a writing gig that has me creating descriptions.
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Mar 30, 2013 17:26
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Hmm, thanks guys. I'll have to play around with some of those next time I need it and see if I can pull off the same effect!
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Mar 31, 2013 00:55
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Red Crown posted:I'm looking to get a microphone for my organization. We've recently started recording a lot of our events for eventual publication on YouTube. We have a nice camera that takes really high quality video, but it doesn't do that great of a job with the audio. We have a lot of older speakers, so we need something that can pick up that kind of thing reliably. I don't know the first thing about this. Our budget is tight, but not that tight. Is there anything we can get for between $100 and $300? Definitely. There are some very solid, cheap USB mics that aren't great for recording music with because of the latency but are great for what you want.
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Mar 31, 2013 10:13
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Anyone have recommendations for programs for writing dialogue trees? I downloaded the first Google result and started using Chat Mapper. I realized afterwards that I can't export the dialogue without a license key, and that it only allows for a single actor/conversant at a time. I would like to experiment with multiple actors and have something that I could easily export as a word or excel file. Would mind mapping software like FreeMind be suitable for this kind of task?
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Apr 3, 2013 00:54
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Recently upgraded to CS6 on Win7. I switch between pan and zoom a lot in inDesign; after zooming (alt) and then panning (space), I get that wonderful Windows error sound. Was using CS3 before that and didn't have a problem...CS5.5 at work is fine with it too (running Snow Leopard, I believe). It is driving me *insane*. Anyone know what's up?
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Apr 3, 2013 02:57
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spider wisdom posted:Recently upgraded to CS6 on Win7. I switch between pan and zoom a lot in inDesign; after zooming (alt) and then panning (space), I get that wonderful Windows error sound. Was using CS3 before that and didn't have a problem...CS5.5 at work is fine with it too (running Snow Leopard, I believe). It is driving me *insane*. Anyone know what's up? I never had your problem specifically barely using inDesign myself, but I suggest to make sure you don't have a conflicting windows shortcut. and make sure your InDesign shortcuts aren't different. When I started using Illustrator 'send to back' and 'send to front' shortcuts activated windows 'change keyboard language' shortcut. And then none of the shortcuts worked cause the keyboard was set to the wrong language. It was super aggravating until I disactivated the windows shortcut.
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Apr 3, 2013 03:58
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Duck Party posted:I never had your problem specifically barely using inDesign myself, but I suggest to make sure you don't have a conflicting windows shortcut. and make sure your InDesign shortcuts aren't different. When I started using Illustrator 'send to back' and 'send to front' shortcuts activated windows 'change keyboard language' shortcut. And then none of the shortcuts worked cause the keyboard was set to the wrong language. It was super aggravating until I disactivated the windows shortcut. Ahh! It might be that alt in Windows activates the current program's taskbar. I will have to investigate further. Thanks for the heads up.
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Apr 5, 2013 01:53
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Does anyone know of any good books/websites/etc to help with drawing 3d shapes? I've read plenty of books on perspective that use vanishing points which are great for backgrounds, but when constructing figures it's not practical since there can be many shapes that are twisted and turned around. So I guess I'm looking for instruction on a more freehand approach to drawing 3d shapes.
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Apr 5, 2013 11:22
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I'm sure that this has been asked before, but I can't for the life of me find a tutorial on how to add objects into an animated GIF. I've been trying to make a gif with the faces replaced with other peoples faces, but when I go to save it for the web, Photoshop doesn't create a new animated GIF. Anyone have a link on how to do this right?
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Apr 5, 2013 16:47
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edit: gonna leave this question out for now.
Great Horny Toads! fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 05:27
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Is there any benefit from going to a gallery opening of yours besides the free food? Also, can I wear whatever I want?
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Apr 7, 2013 15:06
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I want to start doing master copies of paintings and selling them, but I don't know what would be legally preventing me from doing so. If the artist is no longer alive and has been dead for 70+ years (say I'm doing an old baroque painting), would I be able to paint and sell the work on my own?
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Apr 9, 2013 02:52
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Galileo Fingers posted:I want to start doing master copies of paintings and selling them, but I don't know what would be legally preventing me from doing so. If the artist is no longer alive and has been dead for 70+ years (say I'm doing an old baroque painting), would I be able to paint and sell the work on my own? If you start with a master painting and crop to find a new composition, you might be better off than making a full copy of the entire piece. It would allow you to find an original perspective and hone your skills at the same time.
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Apr 9, 2013 23:00
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e: ehhh fuckit nevermind
P.d0t fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 23:14
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Hey quick question about novel manuscript formatting. When you start a new chapter, do you pick up right after the last chapter ends, or do you go to a new page for the new chapter?
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Apr 12, 2013 10:21
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New page. e: It's usually good practice to start the text one-half to two-thirds of the way down the page, so that editors can put any notes they might need on there.
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Apr 14, 2013 17:00
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HorseHeadBed posted:New page. Thanks, I had started the new chapter on a new page, as it made sense, but I wanted some confirmation. I wasn't really sure about starting it a little ways down the page, if that was something for each chapter or just the very first. I shall make some adjustments.
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Apr 15, 2013 01:30
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What should I be searching for to find examples of what I would call "functional advertising." Like. A bookmark, but cooler than bookmark. Something you can use but isn't some promotional junk. I have access to a paper cutter and a laser printer if you have any ideas.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:34
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Is it okay to use Polychromos pencils on bristol board, or will they bleed (or whatever the proper term is) since they're oil based?
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Apr 19, 2013 15:40
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What are some good watercolor brands? I'm not necessarily looking for bright and bold colors, just palettes of softer colors. A pan would be nice, since I don't have much space and would like to store them fairly easily. Also, I'd like some advice on brushes. I don't have much experience with it, but I've loved working with ink and would like to approach watercolor.
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Apr 20, 2013 03:34
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I'm not sure if this is the best thread to ask this, but I figure it's the least annoying place to start - I recently bought a new iMac and my old scanner isn't playing nice with it. I've been looking to buy a new one for ages but, as with many accessories, it's difficult to know where to start. Does anyone have any recommendations? I [i]mostly[/] scan b&w line drawings at 300dpi+ but do some general purpose stuff too. I don't really need anything bigger than A4, just so long as it works with Mountain Lion and isn't super expensive (I want something decent but preferably under £100, think the one I've been using for years cost me like £60 and the quality has been fine). Also, if there is a better place to ask about this stuff, if someone could point me there, that'd be great.
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Apr 20, 2013 09:27
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I'm looking into publishing some writing (fiction) for the first time. Ebooks seem like a pretty decent way to get work circulated quickly and easily, though I've never even used a Kindle or Nook. The difficulty is in the price point. I only want to receive profit via donation. Stupidly idealistic perhaps, but I feel it only fair that people pay what they feel a story is worth. Yes, I'm aware that this is a very poor way to go about making money from writing. If it crashes and burns maybe I'll finally be smart and give up the writing dream entirely rather than simply descend into alcoholism and desperately cling to hope. Any advice on how to do this? Do I just put a paypal donation link at the end of an ebook? I was toying with the idea of doing a Kickstarter (and making a goal of publishing a finished work that'd be on display, rather than creating a work.. it kinda skirts the "no writing" rules) but I felt that having a goal would be too influential on how much/if people were willing to donate. Also, the money wouldn't really be needed for publishing.
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Apr 20, 2013 12:05
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broken pixel posted:What are some good watercolor brands? I'm not necessarily looking for bright and bold colors, just palettes of softer colors. A pan would be nice, since I don't have much space and would like to store them fairly easily. Also, I'd like some advice on brushes. I don't have much experience with it, but I've loved working with ink and would like to approach watercolor. The thing about paint is, you ALWAYS want the "bright and bold colors." You can always dilute or otherwise muddy your colors to reduce chroma, but you can never get more chroma than you started with. One of the things about student-grade paints is that there is less pigment and more binder. So even if you want a "soft" red, it'll always be on the greyish or duller side unless you start with a really good paint. People cheap out on their paint and then wonder why their colors are never quite right. The moral of the story is, buy artist-grade paint. Schminke, Winsor & Newton, or even just the store-brand artist grade from a chain like Blick. If you're just starting out, it doesn't matter all that much which brand you get, as long as you buy artist-grade and not student grade. Also, buy tubes and make your own pans. Then you can refill the pans when they get a groove worn in them. Buy these colors: alizarin crimson (a cool red) cadmium red (an orangey or warm red) lemon yellow (a cool yellow) yellow ochre/cadmium yellow (a warm yellow) ultramarine (a warm purplish blue) pthalo cyan (a cool greenish blue) burnt umber burnt sienna Payne's gray
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Apr 20, 2013 15:25
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neonnoodle posted:Watercolor advice
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Apr 20, 2013 19:14
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You're welcome! And I forgot to mention before, re: brushes -- flats are your friend. If you get a half-inch flat brush, a 1-inch flat brush, and a couple rounds of various sizes, you will be good to go. Flats are helpful because you can draw straights and hard edges with them more easily than you can with rounds. When painting, approaching form via the major planes is helpful, and flats let you make a little mosaic of tiled color regions. Rounds are good for details, but don't give you as much coverage for large areas as flats will. Sable brushes are nice because they retain a ton of water and pigment so you don't have to load them as often, but they're expensive and you have to take care of them religiously. You can start with synthetics for cheap until you find your feet.
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Apr 20, 2013 23:54
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I don't think there is really a more relevant thread for this, but if there is I will move it. Working on a research project and I would be interested in hearing anyone's comments about this diagram. There are two "general" axes, on the top and bottom, just to illustrate a few points.
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Apr 22, 2013 01:46
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I'm far from an authority on the subject but I would think that the left side has more flexibility/adaptability. I also wonder exactly what "social relevancy" means when referring to art.
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Apr 22, 2013 04:58
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I can't say that it makes a lot of sense, immediately and intuitively. I think I have a grasp of what it's saying now, and I would be tempted to say that you've actually defeated the point of graphs, since seems to me that it would be more clear if you put it into words, and would also take up less space.
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Apr 22, 2013 05:36
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That's true, that type of graph is normally used to highlight the overlaps between the different sectors. It really doesn't do that at all here and just makes it needlessly complex.
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Apr 22, 2013 05:49
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Yip Yips posted:I'm far from an authority on the subject but I would think that the left side has more flexibility/adaptability. I also wonder exactly what "social relevancy" means when referring to art. The less/more is flipped on the top, so you're right on track there. But I need to change it a bit so that's more clear, I think. Thanks. Perceived social relevancy is simply the idea that certain cultural institutions (for example, NY MOMA) are looked upon by many (not just critics, curators, and artworld movers and shakers, but regular visitors and people who don't really participate actively in the artworld) as a kind of cultural gatekeeper, "if it's in the MOMA, there must be something to it." That kind of idea. It's not defining anything as actually relevant or not; that would just boil down to a nihilistic argument. If anything I would say looking at it in terms of economics, laws, and financial transactions would be a (while simplistic) easier view to take. The one thing I did forget were art fairs, but one can just assume they'd be another circle in the diagram. Yip Yips posted:That's true, that type of graph is normally used to highlight the overlaps between the different sectors. It really doesn't do that at all here and just makes it needlessly complex. I didn't really title it properly. Basically those are every element of artworld infrastructure that I can think of. They operate semi-autonomously but are connected to each other at some level or another. There is a big long paper that goes along with this, I'm just not going to post that here because I don't think it's the right audience... if I need to make this diagram simpler, I'll figure out a way to do it.
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Apr 22, 2013 07:58
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Does anyone know a good, like top-of-the-line-this-will-last-forever fixative for things besides paper? I'm trying to get a matte white zippo lighter autographed, and then I was hoping to pretty much bring it into daily use, but I don't want the autograph to smudge/blur. Sees to me that this would happen irrigardless of the type of ink used. Could I spray such an object with some kind of coating? If so, what kind? How many coats? I understand that any answer is speculative, but I have no idea about this stuff, so.
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Apr 22, 2013 17:06
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I've generally not enjoyed / avoided working in color, but I'm having the feeling that I should give it more of a try, since not liking something and not being good at it seem to go hand in hand in art. I was curious if anyone had suggestions of where to start. I usually work in ink at this point, either with pens or with brushes, so I was thinking water colors might not be a bad idea. Edit: I should probably mention I prefer to work in traditional media. I have a cheap tablet, but I don't get the same buzz out of working digitally. shadysight fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 22, 2013 |
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Apr 22, 2013 20:03
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shadysight posted:I've generally not enjoyed / avoided working in color, but I'm having the feeling that I should give it more of a try, since not liking something and not being good at it seem to go hand in hand in art. I was curious if anyone had suggestions of where to start. I usually work in ink at this point, either with pens or with brushes, so I was thinking water colors might not be a bad idea. I would suggest starting in a neutral palette. A range of browns and greys. Most things we see are fairly neutral in colour anyway, and it makes for a good tonal base for brighter colours. It will also help to avoid the typical noob 'rainbowey' colour scheme everyone facepalms about. More importantly you should play around with it, don't expect a masterpiece just try. You mentioned you like working in ink: depending on what ink you use and what you plan to colour it with you might need to colour before inking to avoid your ink bleeding into your colour. You should play with your mediums and the order you use them before doing anything you might care about.
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Apr 22, 2013 22:12
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shadysight posted:I've generally not enjoyed / avoided working in color, but I'm having the feeling that I should give it more of a try, since not liking something and not being good at it seem to go hand in hand in art. I was curious if anyone had suggestions of where to start. I usually work in ink at this point, either with pens or with brushes, so I was thinking water colors might not be a bad idea. Watercolour is a massive pain in the arse; getting very good quality results is hard, and it's a little dispiriting once you get past the basics. To be honest, I'd look at something like acrylic, something more solid and physical. It'll depend entirely on what feel you want: I use pen/brush and ink a a lot, and tried to go to watercolour, and the main issue I had with it was an almost complete loss of the control I was used to. With acrylic and oil, I found it was a lot easier to translate the imagery I had in my head beforehand to the canvas, especially in terms of the highly structured imagery I was creating. I'd also look at using conté to sketch; one thing I found helpful was using an extremely limited set of conté colours (say, just sanguine shades), working on coloured paper and building sketches up that way.
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Apr 24, 2013 13:58
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I've been thinking about getting into drawing for a long time now as a creative outlet -- the trouble is, I draw like a 12 year old. I recall a link here a few years ago from someone who was in a similar situation, essentially starting from scratch in his mid-twenties. He ended up uploading all of his sketchbooks in chronological order over a period of like three-five years to show the massive improvements he made over that time. Does anyone recall this and happen to have a link to it?
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May 2, 2013 12:03
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Toadstrieb posted:Does anyone know a good, like top-of-the-line-this-will-last-forever fixative for things besides paper? I'm trying to get a matte white zippo lighter autographed, and then I was hoping to pretty much bring it into daily use, but I don't want the autograph to smudge/blur. Sees to me that this would happen irrigardless of the type of ink used. Could I spray such an object with some kind of coating? If so, what kind? How many coats? I understand that any answer is speculative, but I have no idea about this stuff, so. Epoxy or a simpler resin, that's about it. Or put a piece of clear packaging tape over it. If you haven't done anything with epoxies practicing on something unimportant is probably a good idea.
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May 3, 2013 22:35
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An Adobe Premiere CS6 question. I have a video recorded in 720p, 120FPS (recorded using my GoPro). However, when I try to import it into Premiere (or even preview it there) the audio is way out of sync with the video. Does Premiere not like anything over 60FPS? What am I doing wrong, here? 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:43 on May 4, 2013 |
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May 4, 2013 00:15
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OK, I started googling this and was quickly overwhelmed. I'm looking to try out projection mapping, and I need a cheap projector. I was only hoping to spend a few hundred dollars. I'll be doing this in my bedroom, if that makes any difference. Any suggestions?
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May 4, 2013 08:44
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| # ? May 10, 2024 11:54 |
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University surplus stores are a great place to get used projectors for really cheap. Just make sure you know the price of the inevitable bulb replacement before you buy one.
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May 4, 2013 18:26
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