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JesusIsTehCool posted:Maybe I am missing some things. but it seems like it is associated with bad children painters like in the post above, which I think is pretty unfair. After using it I think there might even be times when using a lower pigment is preferable. I know I was able to get the craft paint a lot more translucent than I am normally able to get with my Citadel paints. Craft paints are used by and associated with children only because they are cheap, typically non-toxic and water-soluble: traits that a parent usually looks for. By no means does it mean that an adult (or manchild in our case  ) can't use them to great effect. Basically, if it  go for it.It's the same deal with watercolors, or "oil paint's kid brother" as I've heard art students call it; you can do fantastic, lovely things with watercolors, but kids love them because they are easy to use, and parents love them because they are cheap, non-toxic and water-soluble.
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Apr 22, 2013 22:22
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Slimnoid posted:Man I really like Zuzzy mats. Nice work, it looks great! Be careful how you store it. A friend of mine left his in the box it came in, leaned against a wall on a hot day and It permanently wrinkled one of the long edges. We were able to pull most of damage out with a heat gun, but you can still tell. Hixson fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 22, 2013 |
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Apr 22, 2013 22:36
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That must be why the one we have is wrinkled on the edge.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:13
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BULBASAUR posted:^^^^ Are those the 'despoiled reaches' or that urban themed one? It looks rad as hell and I can't wait to finally have an army so I can buy one. The Wounded City one. I've played on that very same mat, and it's really quite good if you have a constant case of drunk model syndrome. Nothing really falls over on these things, which is a huge bonus. TheBlobThing posted:Thank you for those pics! I've ordered one of those a couple of weeks ago, but it's a looong time a'coming. How long from you ordered 'till they sent it? It was a commission, so I have no clue how long it took. I'm to understand that it takes a while with these guys, maybe it's a one-man operation or something? Maybe the process takes a while or whatever. Hixson posted:Be careful how you store it. A friend of mine left his in the box it came in, leaned against a wall on a hot day and It permanently wrinkled one of the long edges. We were able to pull most of damage out with a heat gun, but you can still tell. So I've heard. The guy apparently has had this one in his truck for like a year without touching it, so how he kept it in such good shape?  I do have it rolled up snugly and laying horizontal on a desk in the basement, so no chance of it getting warped.
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Apr 23, 2013 00:08
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These Orks look real nice, good job! I love the contrast on the skin and the cartoony paint style, they pop.
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Apr 23, 2013 00:42
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Just had a bad primer experience. Of course I didn't test it on one figure and have several badly primed figs now. Its my first time trying P3 primer. The nozzel sprayed nice and was easy to press unlike the first primer I used which leaked and dripped down the front. But the primer went on powdery and is coming off on my fingers even after a day. It rubs right off the figures (metal) too. I'm going to strip and try again. Does it sound like a bad bottle or bad conditions? It was in the low 60's and not very humid.
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Apr 23, 2013 01:49
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Fingers McGee posted:Just had a bad primer experience. Of course I didn't test it on one figure and have several badly primed figs now. Its my first time trying P3 primer. The nozzel sprayed nice and was easy to press unlike the first primer I used which leaked and dripped down the front. But the primer went on powdery and is coming off on my fingers even after a day. It rubs right off the figures (metal) too. I'm going to strip and try again. Does it sound like a bad bottle or bad conditions? It was in the low 60's and not very humid. Sounds like you didn't shake it enough. But it could just be a bad can, that is sort of the problem with rattlecan primer, you just never know.
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Apr 23, 2013 01:51
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I shook it up a lot. Sounds like a bad bottle then?
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Apr 23, 2013 02:10
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I think what happens is the droplets dry while still in the air. So they don't stick to the surface, don't flow into each other, and you get powder. Worst is if they're still wet enough to adhere, but don't flow into each other. Of course, you can try spraying closer to the model, but this runs the risk of getting too much primer onto it and obscuring details. All I can say is, I've had perfect results with Army Painter brand primers, although they are significantly more expensive than many other options. Now I have an airbrush I'll probably never use rattlecan primer again.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:22
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Leperflesh posted:I have an airbrush I'll probably never use rattlecan primer again. Yeah definitely. Even if all I could do with my airbrush setup was prime and varnish, it would be worth the investment to never have to deal with spraycans or consult the weather oracles or not be able to work on something because of rain, etc.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:25
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Purgey posted:I'm very bad at completing stuff so I'm proud of my tiny progress. These are awesome, shut your mouth! Rocket rat has been delayed temporarily while I get the right bits, so have some new clan rats instead:    oh my 
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Apr 23, 2013 03:03
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Apr 23, 2013 06:20
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Great, now I need to make a new Ork Pulsa Rokkit.
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Apr 23, 2013 06:38
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Finished my Tau Broadside and onto ebay it goes:   I am pleased with how it turned out and it got me to play with magnets for the first time.
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Apr 23, 2013 07:12
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After some great suggestions in the W40k thread I decided to paint some Plaguebearers. This is the first time I've painted an entire troop. When I was a kid I painted this and that, quite poorly, and as a teenager I only had patience for one model, so I am a total rookie at this. I can't decide if they are ready or not. White undercoat, Straken Green heavily thinned with water on top, then Athonian Camoshade. Guts were just darkened Evil Sunz Scarlet and Agrax Earthshade + Nuln Oil coats. For the staff I mixed the brown paint from black + Cadian Fleshtone, and then covered the staff and gold in Earthshade and Nuln several times. I think that some highlighting would be in order, but I have never done that and am sure I would just severely gently caress it up. I want to keep them looking (grim)dark, but the colours seem a bit too muted now. I tried to save on paints as the start cost is so high, so I only got 10 and mixed stuff like gray and brown myself as much as I was able to. (Sorry for the blurry phone pics, this was the best I could do.)  When I realized I could cut the base off that Nurgling and have it hang off the sword (which happened accidentally when I dropped him on a Plaguebearer) I felt really thrilled. It's extremely basic, but as a rookie it was great being able to do something fun and unexpected with the basic model kit.  The heads have kind of brown-ish thread in the eyes and mouth, but they're just not clear enough. I mixed the grey myself and washed it with Nuln.  The Nurgling looks better now after an Earthshade wash. End of the flute looks green on that picture, not sure why.  I wasn't really sure how to do the maggots, so I just painted them black and coated with dark Evil Sunz and Cadian fleshtone. The swords are also just really basic but I'm not sure how to make them more interesting. The Codex says that they have a decaying rust effect, but I was thinking of getting a really bright green and trying to make the edge seem poisonous. Not quite sure how to proceed. I know the paintjob is very amateurish with lots of mistakes, but I'd appreciate any tips on how to improve them.
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Apr 23, 2013 08:57
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Finished my Tau Broadside and onto ebay it goes: How easy was it to magnetize and do you have any shots of the magnets? Also great camo job, stealing it for an ork boyz squad.
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Apr 23, 2013 11:26
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Bavius posted:How easy was it to magnetize and do you have any shots of the magnets? The magnets were 2mm by 1mm. I used a 2mm drill bit to do the holes, that bit was easy enough. That was fine for the shoulder stuff but the arms themselves would not hold with just magnets. I used a couple of pins in the arms and drilled the inside of the joint to hold the arms in place. That was the main pain in the backside and it was quite fiddly. If I did it again it would be easier though. No shots I am afraid, I used a paper clip for the pins. They are 1mm in diameter.
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Apr 23, 2013 11:36
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Bolverkur posted:Nurgle stuff Honestly dude, you could throw some texture paint or sand on the bases and you'd be done. That's easily tabletop-ready quality, which is a good thing to aim for in the beginning. One thing I'm noticing is the mold lines here and there. Those are the bane of a modeler's existence, and if you don't have a file yet, grab one. Failing that, use an x-acto blade and run it along the mold lines. When you're doing something as wash-heavy as that, the mold lines are even easier to spot on the finished product. As a suggestion, make the shrunken heads pop out a little more. They're too dull as-is, and they need a little something to make them not blobs of grey.. A purple wash might look good, that can really give a rotten/bruised look to flesh. For the swords, if you want to get a rusted look, GW's Skrag Brown is a really solid rust color. Apply that, then edge the blades with a metallic color like Leadbelcher, then toss on Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade. Bam, rust! If you want a poisoned look though, there's a couple ways to go about it. One old trick Skaven players do for warpstone is to paint it yellow, then give it a wash of green ink. I'm unsure if using the new GW green wash will have the same effect though, because inks gave it a glossy finish that helped sell a gem-like effect. Failing that, you can paint the edges of the weapon white and give it a couple washes of green, which should do the trick.
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Apr 23, 2013 17:32
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I was at Adepticon this weekend and saw this in the Warhammer Fantasy tourney:    I didn't get the full photo, but the display is built on a 4 foot-tall sea chest. The opened lid has the "Rime of the Ancient Marienburger" written out on the parchment. I asked the guy how long it took him to do it - he said a month. I looked at him incredulously and he clarified "That's all I did for an entire month." That didn't make me feel any better though... I really hope he won some awesome prize for all that hard work.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:19
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Dude seems like a great painter but he needs to learn the difference between effects gel and still water. Them's the calmest seas I've ever seen a kraken arise from.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:34
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Dude seems like a great painter but he needs to learn the difference between effects gel and still water. Them's the calmest seas I've ever seen a kraken arise from. It's correct as it is - Kraken are supposed to sneak up and be halfway attached to the boat before anyone notices it's there. When people start screaming and stuff it starts thrashing around and smashing stuff up. Sealife with beaks freak me out. Mythical sea life with giant beaks in their maws really freak me out. Do not like the Kraken.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:57
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I was using an x-acto blade but had a hard time properly identifying the mold lines. I'll be sure to get a file before the next kit, however. A purple wash sounds great, seeing as I'm going to do blue Pink Horrors next I'll be able to use it there as well. I'm going to start experimenting a bit on the rust tactics, too bad I threw away the sprues like an idiot! Thanks for the really great tips, I'll definitely be using that Warpstone method on something!
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Apr 23, 2013 22:11
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Here's my first Tau model. Testing out the colour scheme which is basically ripped off from the army book. When I start to work on the Pathfinders and Fire Warriors the difference from the 'Eavy Metal scheme will be more pronounced, as they will have grey fatigues under the armour, and a lot less black. I'm really pleased with how it's come out. I'm pretty stumped on how to do the base though. Any suggestions? I was going to try and tie them into a whole lot of jungle-ish terrain that I'm working on, but I've not decided on the colours for that yet either so I'm open to suggestions! Edit: Some of the mould lines were really hard to get, ok. I tried! 
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Apr 23, 2013 23:25
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I'm starting to get really fed up with using my airbrush. I seem to spend far more time pulling it apart, fiddling with it, cleaning it and trying not to throw it out the window than I do actually painting with it. I had it mess up halfway through priming my necron doomscythe and was too stubborn to fully pull it apart and drain the paint and start over. Now I have a chunkily primed scythe that I think I'm going to have to sand down. Stupid airbrush 
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Apr 24, 2013 00:28
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Sounds like you are not thinning enough, or are trying to use too fine of a needle. You should never have to take it apart. You should also be using a higher PSI for primer, I use around 30 - 40 psi and a large needle while priming, and I dont have to thin it at all, when I am done, rinse out the cup, run some water through it, pull and wipe the needle and done.
LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 00:50
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Lethemonster posted:I'm starting to get really fed up with using my airbrush. I seem to spend far more time pulling it apart, fiddling with it, cleaning it and trying not to throw it out the window than I do actually painting with it. This was me for literally the first year I used my airbrush. Including several times of putting too thick paint in and having to dump the entire batch and completely disassemble and clean the whole thing just to get it to run again. It gets better with practice.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:53
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berzerkmonkey posted:I was at Adepticon this weekend and saw this in the Warhammer Fantasy tourney: This owns bones, as does the shuttle launch model from a page or two back.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:14
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Crossposting from the 40k thread with some Wazdakka          His base is massive, around 4½” x 2 3/4”, custom-made from plasticard and various odds n' ends. I'm now officially done with this Ork army I've been chipping away at since last summer. I'm hoping to get some army-wide photos of the entire shebang tomorrow, assuming my client has all the other models with him. ineptmule posted:I'm really pleased with how it's come out. I'm pretty stumped on how to do the base though. Any suggestions? I was going to try and tie them into a whole lot of jungle-ish terrain that I'm working on, but I've not decided on the colours for that yet either so I'm open to suggestions! I think a more desert-style base would be a nice contrast with that color scheme. I can't really see green going well with black and red for some reason.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:57
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I painted up a LRC for my Dark Angels. It's the first time I've tried any kind of weathering on a vehicle. I think it turned out pretty good.   e: Barrels will get drilled. I broke my drill bit unclogging a bottle of superglue heh Hixson fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 01:57
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Hixson, you should do a tutorial on how you paint lenses. They always look soo good. I dig the raider, especially the grime marks, but I'd still probably take a lead pencil to the worn metal edges. Slimnoid posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread with some Wazdakka
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Apr 24, 2013 04:02
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ineptmule posted:Here's my first Tau model. Testing out the colour scheme which is basically ripped off from the army book. When I start to work on the Pathfinders and Fire Warriors the difference from the 'Eavy Metal scheme will be more pronounced, as they will have grey fatigues under the armour, and a lot less black. Unggg, that looks good! Really reminds me of the time when Tau were still new. Suggestions for base: If you're thinking jungle, why not use a combination of traditional green flocking and grass with painted aquarium fronds. Sort of like what this guy did. He is a goon, actually, I just forget his name. 
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Apr 24, 2013 04:05
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Did a test model for my Stealth Suits tonight. This style has been done to death, but I don't care, its awesome. Slap texture paint all over and it blends in so well.
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Apr 24, 2013 05:19
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
What is the trick to getting wood to look like this?
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Apr 24, 2013 05:56
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Khorne Flakes posted:Did a test model for my Stealth Suits tonight. This style has been done to death, but I don't care, its awesome. Slap texture paint all over and it blends in so well. I think its still a cool effect and if you like it then do it. Usually see the best ones involving walls or something that they can disappear against. I like the idea of holo fields too, not sure how any of this tech would look when deployed. That said, I like the idea of the enemy seeing Tau shaped boulders jumping around rather than brightly colored Tau.
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Apr 24, 2013 06:20
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You both make me wish I'd still been interested in 40k when the Tau showed up. Looking awesome. Under 15 posted:What is the trick to getting wood to look like this? I am guessing oil washes have something to do with it, but I, too, would love to know what's up here. I never get to paint wooden stuff. e: VVV these tau are also beautiful IrvingWashington fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 06:35
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New Tau done up, gonna assemble my broadside and pathfinders now.   Squad shots:   I need to get a new camera.
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Apr 24, 2013 06:50
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Khorne Flakes posted:Did a test model for my Stealth Suits tonight. This style has been done to death, but I don't care, its awesome. Slap texture paint all over and it blends in so well. The antenna should probably be half-camouflaged as well - as it is it kind of looks like the head is just sitting on top of a rocky body at first glance.
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Apr 24, 2013 08:20
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Got a dude on ebay asking about my broadside, he wants to commission an entire army done that way. I cant think of anything that would drive me to  than that.
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Apr 24, 2013 08:31
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Lemon Curdistan posted:The antenna should probably be half-camouflaged as well - as it is it kind of looks like the head is just sitting on top of a rocky body at first glance. Agreed with this.
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Apr 24, 2013 08:31
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Got a dude on ebay asking about my broadside, he wants to commission an entire army done that way. I cant think of anything that would drive me to I've thougth about commission painting to get some extra cash but yeah this would kill me. The only thing I could think would not lead to imminent suicide would be me just painting models I like, then selling them on afterwards. That way I scratch my painting itch and essentially get models for free.
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Apr 24, 2013 08:40
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